I use Linux, and the sculpting options over here are thin. Blender is there and it's genuinely excellent, but its sculpt mode is a mesh sculptor built for rendering, and the tools people usually recommend for print-focused sculpting are Windows or Mac only, or paid, or both. So a few months ago I started building the thing I wanted, and it's now at a point where it's worth other people trying.

It's free and open source (AGPL), there's no account, no subscription and nothing to buy, and although I build it on Linux it runs on Windows and macOS too.

The reason it works the way it does: most sculpting tools work on a surface, a shell of triangles with nothing behind it. Pull too hard and it tears. That costs you nothing in a render, because nobody sees the back of the model, but it costs you the print, because a slicer wants one closed solid.

BrokkrSculpt works on solid material instead. In practice that means you can't rip a hole in it however hard you pull, a cut through it closes itself and leaves a real face, and a scan that arrives with holes in it usually stops being broken on the way in. Exports get checked for watertightness before the file is written, and it refuses to write one that wouldn't print.

What's there now: seven brushes, symmetry, masking, surface patterns (scales, weave, cracks, hair, noise), a plane cut, graphics tablet support with pressure and tilt, STL/OBJ/3MF in and out, and one click into OrcaSlicer.

Being straight about the state of it, because I'd rather you heard it from me:

- It's a beta and nothing is signed yet, so Windows and macOS will both warn you about the download.

- The three builds aren't equally finished. Linux is where I build and use it every day; Windows and Mac come from the same commit and pass the same tests but have had far less time on real hardware. The README lists exactly what's unproven on each.

- Resolution is uniform, so a big model resists very fine detail until you resample it finer.

- A model that's both very thin and genuinely open (a car body with no windows) can't be made solid, and stays fragile.

Source and downloads: https://github.com/MakerViking/brokkrsculpt

Happy to answer anything about how it works. If you try it and it breaks, that's genuinely the most useful thing you can tell me, there's a bug report button in the lower right part of the viewport.

I'm only about four or five months into this and this is the first real maintenance issue I've had. Not even sure how to get the print head out to try to service it as the filament has completely melted up onto the latch of the hot end. Any ideas?

bambu labs seems to have updated this to a more "urgent" team, If they do anything its most likely going to be sending new parts or a new printer, I don't want either of those. any suggestions for receiving a refund? I never want to deal with a Bambu printer again and will not deal with one. some backstory: since around July I have been trying to get a new printer or just help from Bambu labs but they have been super dodgy saying that my printer is not covered even tho its less then a year old and it may have caught fire? full on refusing replacement and when I bring it up they compltetely dodge it. I turned it on one day and it started smoking so I immediately turned it off, after further inspection the mainboard was fried and the bottom plate which doesn't press up against it too close had severe burn marks. they sent a new board and I installed it then after that the TH board started smoking and shut off. its unbelievable how awful their support is. a replacement is NOT enough at this point a refund is what should happen. give me your opinions.

got a reply just now and in my previous message I sent a picture of the TH board but explained the damage isn't visible on camera but I can see the burn and smell it. I also asked specifically mutlipul times if a refund was possible and nothing of that was mentioned. I let them know that my hot end wasn't installed so there was no point in sending a picture of a brand new one but I guess they didn't read my message. this is the worst support ive every had.

im trying to contact Best Buy again and gather everything to do a credit card charge back I don't want a bambu labs printer anymore and they aren't helping me. I purchased the printer januarary 31st and made my first ticket when it shorted in may and Best Buy will not refund of return. here are some pictures

I replaced my stock A1 extruder gear with a metal one after 2,000 hours. Now the filament won’t feed and there’s a loud clicking sound. I’ve gone from screwed all the way in to almost completely unthreaded with no change. What am I doing wrong?

I have been having a lot of problems with bed adhesion lately so I got the BIQU cryogrip pro as I heard a lot of good things about that. But now after putting it in every print fails because the auto bed leveling fails every time. I am almost certain this build plate is compatible with the P2S as I have seen several people post completed prints using this build plate. Does anyone know what I could be doing wrong and how to fix it?

Edit: keeping this post open for posterity but the problem seems to be solved. In the slicer I had it set to my old build plate when I should have had it set to textured PEI. This plate still doesn’t work for calibrations but I can live with swapping out the plate every time I need to calibrate

Recently got a 10w laser but looking for kit to make it work. Anyone know any places that sell the kit preferably discounted or open box.

Hi I've been searching on what might be causing this issue but I've not found any actionable solutions.

I am having a reoccurring issue with the filiment in the toolhead getting stuck and I know how to fix the issue then but not sure about preventitive measures for stopping it from happening again. Anyone know where I should start or what could possibly cause the issue?

Some things I've noticed:

White typically gives me this issue more often though it's not exclusively white.

The jam seems to only occur with whatever filiment is in the second position of the ams.

A few times I fixed this it looks like there is a tiny broken piece of filiment broken in the gear head.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

And it had to be with PET-CF. I was able to heat up the hotend and get it out, but even allowing the hotend to stay at 290c for awhile, it would never heat up enough to allow me to pull the filament away from the clevis. Do I use a heat gun, or will that damage my head? Do I just replace that side and is that even possible? Anyone fought this issue with engineering filament and win?

I have a Sunlu PETG in my AMS but I cant select it in the slicer. Instead of adding this filament to the project filaments it it adds generic PETG. Why cant I select Sunlu?

It uses the included self-adhesive steel plate that comes with the scraper, embedded in the print for a seamless finish!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3250077-opengrid-magnetic-holder-bambu-mag-alloy-scraper#profileId-3683305

Hey everyone!

I got my first 3D Printer (X2D) at the beginning on June after several years of eyeing the hobby and watching the printer technology evolve. Needless to say I am in love with it.

Now after hitting the 3-month mark, I feel like I've good a pretty good sense of what I care to track and my workflow.

As you can tell from the pic, I'm also an excel and organization nerd. I have a spreadsheet where I track everything 3D printing related. The main data is separated into 3 tabs which all connect to each other:

1. Filament Inventory - This tab tracks every single spool of filament. Each spool gets its own row with a unique "Filament ID" (FLMT-XXXXX))
2. Print Jobs - This tab track every single print job. Every plate printed gets its own row with a unique "Print ID" (PRNT-XXXXX)
3. Print Filament - This tab tracks all the filament used for each print. Since one single Print ID can use multiple filaments, each unique filament used gets its own row and references both the Print ID and Filament ID

The main "Dashboard" pictured here pulls specific data from all 3 tabs. Everything here updates automatically.

I'm looking for feedback if you think there's something I should add or take away, suggestions to improve, or maybe something I overlooked or did incorrectly.

Thanks!

Looking for a printable shade for the IKEA BARLAST floor lamp, the 150 cm one with the 30 cm shade. Product page with photos for reference: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/barlast-floor-lamp-black-white-50437810/

I found the popular MakerWorld model (https://makerworld.com/en/models/207101-ikea-barlast-lampshade) but from the comments it is sized for the BARLAST table lamp, and one person who printed it for the floor lamp said it came out comically small. Someone else asked whether it fits the floor version and never got an answer.

The complication for me is the A1 bed. The original shade is about 30 cm across, and the A1 is 256 mm, so a one-piece copy at full size does not fit. So I am curious whether anyone has either:

1. A floor-size shade modelled to print in two or more pieces that clip or glue together, or
2. A smaller shade that still looks right on the floor lamp rather than like a hat on a tall person.

If you have printed one, a photo of it on the actual lamp would be far more useful than the model page, since the table vs floor confusion seems to be how people end up with the wrong size. Also curious what you used for translucency, the MakerWorld one is 1 wall, 0 infill, no top or bottom, and I am not sure that holds up at floor lamp size.

Not looking to sell anything, just want to stop looking at the bare bulb.

I’m honestly getting quite frustrated with this issue.
My P2S has a very consistent Z-banding / wavy surface pattern. The pattern is especially visible on the Y-facing wall and becomes less noticeable on the X-facing side. It is also very obvious in vase mode.
So far, I have tried:
-Full printer calibration multiple times
-Flow and pressure advance tuning
-Different filaments, PLA Matte, PETG Basic and ASA
-Properly drying the filament using AMS HT
-Different outer wall speeds and accelerations
-XY belt tensioning
-Checking belt alignment and idlers
-Checking, cleaning & lubricate the Z-axis components, including lead screws and Z rods.

Bambu Support also suggested changing the outer wall speed to below 100 mm/s or above 230 mm/s. I tested different speeds, but the pattern remained.
I also noticed that the XY belt can move slightly up and down on the idler/pulley instead of staying perfectly centered, so I’m wondering if this could be related.

I’ve already contacted Bambu Support and provided photos, videos, and print results. They noticed some slight belt wear and are arranging a replacement belt, but so far the issue is still unresolved.

At this point, I’m running out of things to check.
Could this be caused by:
XY belt alignment or idler/tensioner issues?
XY squareness?
Belt riding up/down on the idler?
Bent or misaligned Z lead screw?
Z rod alignment?
Something else mechanical?

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I just want to figure out what is causing this and get the P2S printing properly.

Every so often the spool runs out, moreso the tape gives out from the end of the spool and therefore it's not attached. The AMS then freaks out saying it can't pull it back.

While I do have another spool grouped, it doesn't purge the remaining line and switch over. Manually pulling the line out it wants a new spool in the same ams slot instead of failing over.

So in the end 9 hour print when I was at work, stopped with 10 minutes left on the print, sat for an hour till I got home and now it's finishing with a horrible layer line since the main body has cooled down.

I'm really not sure if there is a solution to this, but holy cow after a long day at work this makes me want to crash out lol.

So about a week ago my A1 had a worse than usual print. My next one had a bunch of tearing on the side. My next one turned into a giant mess being dragged around. Everything after that barely extruded and wouldn’t stick to the bed.

I tried a couple of cold pulls to no luck. I tried putting on a new nozzle and then it couldn’t even load the filament. I cleaned the extruder by taking off the filament cutter and using condensed air to blow out anything that would’ve been in there. It started loading filament and extruding seeming normally, but then it wouldn’t stick to the bed and turned into a giant mess.

I tried taking the whole extruder apart and cleaning it, but that didn’t change anything. I did a factory reset and was able to print a benchy with a couple of small flaws. Next print was back to a mess fail. I’ve also washed the bed with hot water and dawn soap multiple times and recalibrated after each thing I’ve done. The nozzle is in correctly and all screws are tight. All filament is sunlu and was dried about a day before this started. Any suggestions? I’m about at my wits end here.

So about a week ago my A1 had a worse than usual print. My next one had a bunch of tearing on the side. My next one turned into a giant blob. Everything after that barely extruded and wouldn’t stick to the bed.

I tried a couple of cold pulls to no luck. I tried putting on a new nozzle and then it couldn’t even load the filament. I cleaned the extruder by taking off the filament cutter and using condensed air to blow out anything that would’ve been in there. It started loading filament and extruding seeming normally, but then it wouldn’t stick to the bed and turned into a giant blob.

I tried taking the whole extruder apart and cleaning it, but that didn’t change anything. I did a factory reset and was able to print a benchy with a couple of small flaws. Next print was back to a blob fail. I’ve also washed the bed with hot water and dawn soap multiple times and recalibrated after each thing I’ve done. The nozzle is in correctly and all screws are tight. All filament was dried about a day before this started. Any suggestions? I’m about at my wits end here.

I just printed PA6CF and I assumed it was going to contract but the opposite happened the walls became longer +.4, I have the nozzle, 6 mm, what am I supposed to do to calibrate this well

My Bambu Lab A1 starts having a serious issue after around 5 to 9 hours of printing. Before that, the print is completely perfect.
Then it suddenly starts making a loud vibrating/grinding noise, and shortly after that the nozzle moves down into the print and starts melting/dragging through it, eventually ruining the print.
This has happened multiple times and is now causing me problems because I have orders to complete.
Things I’ve already tried:
• Completely cleaned the printer
• Cleaned the nozzle and extruder
• Lubricated the printer
• Checked the axes and movement
• Recalibrated the printer
• Increased Z hop to 1 mm
The strange thing is that the printer can print perfectly for several hours before suddenly doing this.
Has anyone experienced this on an A1? Could this be a Z axis, motor, sensor, mainboard, or firmware issue?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Does anyone have any recommendations for 3rd party nozzles for an X2D? Wanting to grab a HF nozzle but want to see all the options out there without risking my printer

Is it just me or is the display wire a nightmare to deal with? I remember having a lot of trouble with it just falling out extremely easily when I set up the printer originally, I had a clog earlier and must have bumped the screen and I’ve been trying for an hour to reconnect it, I’ll get it working sometimes with the display up but the buttons won’t work, if I’m able to get it plugged in properly when the display and buttons do work, it nudges slightly when trying to slot the screen in and I’m back to square 1.

I’m pretty close to just giving up on the screen entirely and just using my phone.

My almost 36 hour print was going well until the last 6 hours or so in which there was some serious layer shift happening. Why is this happening. What can I do to fix this. How do I fix the shift after the fact? Is sanding and spray paint my best move?

Just got an h2d a couple days ago and since I already had a P2S over a year I knew what to expect but noticed the belt great was filled with some kind of dirt (I assumed from the new belt fuzz? Not sure if that's normal since it didn't happen with my p2s)

But this noise when it switches nozzles

.. can't be normal can it? It's louder than axis flipper things for sure. I opened a support ticket but no response yet

I’m new to 3D printing and have a new P2S. I started getting low quality prints and then a resonance frequency warning around 150hrs. I completed the recommended procedures for belt tension and calibration 5 times and it didn’t resolve. Bambu technical support asked me to try a couple of other things which also didn’t work. They then sent me replacement belts and in the process of trying to replace those I broke the clip off my AMS feeder tube (I don’t know the proper term) and just feel really frustrated that I’ve been doing procedures and diagnostics for almost a month now on a brand new printer. I tried super glueing the belts together to replace them and the glue broke so now apparently I have to take apart the entire back of the machine. I’m a working dad that’s just feeling really annoyed right now. Has anyone else experienced this issue and have any words of advice?