416 Weatherby

Got tired of stealing tools from various tool boxes etc every time I needed to torque down a new optic or disassemble a firearm. Metal tool box and it looks like I still have a 3rd drawer free and a bit of space at the top. What tools am I missing here? Working on pretty basic things, glock/Sig, 10/22, AR's etc.

I have had this Cetme C flat from RTG and from my understanding they are the worst receiver flat you can get. However I wanted the original Cetme look. From what I have read from other builds once you get to the point of welding it you need to hammer a bolt through in order to open the grooves up a little bit. My problem is though I have hammer the bolt through probably 30 or so times and was wi seeing if anyone had other advice for me?

Does anybody have any cast data for the 9.3x62? I judt purchased one but I guess unsurprisingly no cast data, though if I cant find any, i will likely base off of 35 whelen cast data

Hi,
I've been casting 200 gr 358 bullets and they are quite long. Since they are so long they do not feed through my Lee bullet feeder. I couldn't figure out how to adjust it to get it work. Any suggestions?

I have a savage axis that is extremely difficult to unlock when the striker is cocked. It’s perfectly smooth until the last bit of upwards travel of the bolt knob. When it gets to that last lil bit i almost have to hit the bolt handle to get it to unlock. I find that it’s smoother when the striker is down. Is there anything I can do to help with this?

What is the purpose of this small lever/ latch on the side of the star 70B bolt. I see that it can be depressed by the charging rod, but what keeps it from popping into the pocket on the tube while firing? Any info would be appreciated

No wonder they're in stock

Hello!

Apologies if this is the wrong sub. I was out shooting dove earlier and my gun jammed up. Essentially, the bolt is stuck open (see below).

I've taken the barrel and grip off of it, didn't notice any jams or stuck shells. Pressing the bolt release button does nothing. Any advice?

Came across some old pre 20 casings in a batch of brass I bought. Pretty neat to find stuff like this. Oldest one I’ve been able to date is a frankford armory from 1901.

Hello guys.
Im new to reloading and sorting out a load development for my 7mm rem mag.

Got some h1000 powder, federal .215 L Magnum Primers, hornady eld-m 162gr projects, and brass from factory shot loads (162ELD-X).

Got a Tikka 24” standard barrel.

Whats powder charge loads have been working the best for you??
And any advice prior to hitting the loading room and throwing some charge and making devolopments.
Thank you!!

I bought a new Taurus 856 UL and it has a sort of jingling noise when I shake it or wave it around (I haven't been doing that in an unsafe way, I noticed it when I pulled it out to try a speedloader I bought)

I have a video, but that post type isn't allowed here

Its the first modern DA revolver I've owned, is that normal or should I send it in to Taurus?

So I got this H&R 922 from a local gun show for $20! I’m very excited about getting it working again the trigger and hammer seem to work just fine but obviously I’m missing the cylinder and rod. Do yall have any tips and tricks to the trade? Also the only website I’ve found with the cylinders is sold out. If you have any resources for some please let me know. Side note the serial number starts with an L putting this around 1949-1951 I believe.

Just picked up a Sten mk3 parts kit, this will be my first build ever and I need some help understanding a few things.

1.) Using a mk3 tube (non vented) from sten parts, how do you instal the barrel bushings both front and rear and how do you instal the barell? From what I understand you use rivets for the bushings but how does all that work and how'd you do it?

2.) Whats the best method to remove the old sten tube from the rest of the parts

3.) What helped you weld the Magwell in place correctly?

Im a little slow so barney style words and pictures help alot. Thank you!

If I broke any rules im sorry (I did read them to make sure I didn't break any but just in case..)

Hi there, new to all of this and seems overwhelming.

Does anyone have a formula to help get me going. Safety is my priority.

20 ga

2 3/4"

2 1/2 DR. EQ.

7/8 Oz

7 1/2 shot

Basically want to match the Challenger target loads I have

Recommend propellant brand, how many grains needed, wad etc. Any info is helpful. Just want to load basic clay loads without blowing myself up. Thanks!

Reading the Lyman 6th Edition Shotshell Reloading handbook. The more I read, the more I feel lost.

I feel the line slightly get caught w my nail , tho when I see the barrel hinge the line doesn’t continue, I recently got it gifted so I’m not to sure of its maintenance condition.
(Any advice)

I own a Iver Johnson 50 year anniversary M1 Carbine and the bolt cracked on me and the extractor is no more. I was wondering if the bolt is interchangeable with any other GI bolt?

I've had this rifle for some time and im finally getting around to adressing an issue l've had since purchase and I just need some verification from someone with a little more experience in the KAR.

The front barrel band and bayonet lug loosen while firing. I know there needs to be a pin to hold the bavonet lug in place and the front band, as far as I've found, is usually retained through the use of a double sided band retaining spring that hold both front and rear bands in place.

However this rifle doesn't have nor has the provision for a double ended spring. So would the bayonet lug pin also secure the front band? Would the front band need to have 2 holes so the pin sits flush or just one (as it only has one) and the pin would sit proud?

Some background, I got into firearms/reloading 5 years ago because of my grandpa. He gave me a Savage model 99 chambered in .303 Savage. I couldn’t find any ammo but found some brass and ordered a Lee single press. I followed the included packet to a tee and have been doing so ever since. Now I’ve gotten several calibers and reload them all especially 9mm now that I have a CCW permit. I load RMR “Nuke” 124 grain bullets with 5 grains of Autocomp. Shoots fine on paper but ever since I got Chronograph I’m not getting the FPS I need for proper expansion. 5 grains Autocomp gets me 1013 FPS average (Canik MC9) and proper expansion they recommend 1100 FPS. My question is… now that I have a chronograph can I just load develop up to hit the listed 1100 FPS? Any tips or recommendations from someone that has done this for a while. Would I just need to check for pressure signs? Would this process be the same for any caliber I load?

Thought id do a quick tutorial on how to modify an original trigger box and fcg to work in the recent Marcolmar recievers.

step 1: Cut out a slot for the denial bar. Hardest part on the conversion but easily doable with a dremel. Just measure approximately .540-.550 from the front of the housing and cut a straight line that ends in a slight curve towards the bottom. will likely require some hand fitting but is very doable. make sure to cut/grind away the detent area for the trip lever both for clearance and to ensure the trip lever cant be installed.

step 2: Remove the bushing from the trip lever. this is needed to join the trigger and disconnector with the through pin. The bushing is a separate piece pressed into the trip lever, which is easily removed by cutting or grinding. I just bent the trip lever until it snapped and removed it that way.

step 3: Block the FA area of the selector. Im not sure if this is technically required, but for the sake of CYA i did it. Just a small blob of weld is all thats needed to deny it from going to FA.

step 4: assemble as normal keep in mind that this is a general guide and small adjustments may be needed.

Other possible issues: On mine the interior end of the selector was a few thou too long and i needed to remove a small amount of material. This also was required for the detent nub that interacts with the notches (it was incredibly stiff but with a sanding flap wheel and some polishing it did wonders for it).

Hopefully this will save you buys a few bucks and keep some original parts still in use!