Just had shoreline flake applied to a 30 year old slab. Wall had a fresh coat of paint before floor was done. The previous owner stood a 2x4 up on the bottom of the walls and sheathing sits on top creating this base molding basically. I wasn’t sure what I was doing with this base molding so I left it thinking I was going to paint it/touch up after the floor was done. I left painters tape on the top edge since I thought I may leave it. When I got home, I was somewhat surprised the contractor ripped the tape off and essentially encapsulated the base molding with the epoxy. I’m generally happy with it. However I’m curious if this is common practice? Had I know they were doing this, I would have sanded the base molding since it had glossy paint on it. So now I’m worried it wasn’t prepped properly(no I have not asked what they did yet). Like I said, I think it looks good and it’s one less thing I have to worry about painting, but now I’m worried about adhesion issues. Perhaps it’s nothing, but wondering if this is common practice. I thought they were just applying to concrete floor only…

As you can see in the photo, towards the top, there is a small section of patchiness. How do you avoid that?

This is not my work by the way.

GS2602008 - crescent-shaped trunk slice, void runs straight through the middle of it. Grain reads noticeably tighter right up against that cavity edge and it loosens out in stages as you move toward the crescent's outer curve, easy to see the density shift once it's wetted.

Bark's still attached across most of the piece but it's lifted maybe 2-3mm off the sapwood in two separate spots, nowhere near the void itself. Been going back and forth on whether thin CA under the lifted section actually holds long-term once resin's poured and curing, or if it's better to just trim that bark back to a clean line and let the void carry the visual instead.

Also running dense knot clusters through this one, which is throwing off my usual read on where resin's going to want to pool once it hits that lower-density band near the void - normally I'd expect it to sit lower there, but the knots might change that. Edenvale, Gauteng harvest, field seasoned, 10-12% on the pin meter.

Anyone actually stabilized lifting bark like this and had it hold once cured, or does it tend to separate again regardless and you're better off committing to trim from the start?

I received a quote from GarageForce to do a polyaspartic coating on my 1997 garage floor that does not have a moisture barrier. The guy did 2 calcium chloride tests over 72 hours and said I was good to go and did not need a moisture barrier base coat. It did rain while he took the tests but im not 100% convinced because if you look at the picture my garage floor looks noticeably wet. Im not positive if it is just condensation or actual moisture coming through. It usually looks wet/splotchy when it rains over night like it did last night. What does everyone think of how this floor looks? I know you cant tell just by looks but just curious for a second opinion.

First time poster in the Epoxy community and I’ll try to make this short. I am taking a leap of faith after losing my corporate job and starting my own epoxy flooring company. I have the business experience however I do not have the epoxy flooring experience outside of a certification course I took about 9 months ago. I used my garage as my first install.

As you can see, there was a DIY Rustoleum coating that was showing its age. I used a planetary grinder and handheld grinders for the edges to create an open surface(3rd pic) for the epoxy base. I did a full flake of Torginol Stony Creek color. I let that cure overnight and applied the polyaspartic top coat the next day. I had a few rookie mistakes which were all good learning lessons.

Mistake 1: I used the entire 3 gallon kit that is rated to cover 300 sq Ft on my 200 sq ft garage. The base was laid on thick however it was used within the manufacturer’s recommended work time. The flakes went on well and scrapped off well. I used all of the top coat. Everything was even after squeegee and rolling.

Mistake 2: I didn’t pull the tape off while the epoxy was wet and it was a pain to get off. I scored the bottom where the floor and trim meet however you can see the blue tape. I’m thinking I should caulk the edge of the floor and trim to ensure no moisture gets under the coating.

Mistake 3: the edge where the garage door meets the floor looks terrible. The epoxy blend through and I have some top coat drops there.

Overall, I’m happy with the results but will take these lessons to improve for when I find customers. Does anyone have recommendations or tips on how to fix said mistakes? Or maybe you have tips in general for a first timer taking a leap of faith!

I’m using a system from Canada (mods unsure if linking is allowed, so I’ll share brand name only) - Magic Resin.

It’s the epoxy, flakes and polyaspartic system. Their website says minimum 8-12 hours between epoxy with flakes; and polyaspartic top coat.

I started the epoxy around 10.45am, and finished at 11.45am. It’s now 10pm where I am.

Am I ok to wait until 7am tomorrow morning to apply the polyaspartic? The room temperature is currently 20C/68F.

This is my first go, happy to share before/after pictures when it’s all done. I invested time into walk behind grinding, hand grinding, vacuuming, microfibre cleaning and I don’t want to mess up the last stage!!

Thanks in advance!

Free 2-Day Epoxy Flooring Training & Product Demo in Pittsburgh | September 16–17

I’m hosting a free two-day epoxy flooring training and product demo in Pittsburgh on September 16th and 17th, and I wanted to open it up to contractors, installers, and anyone interested in getting into the epoxy flooring industry.

The training is designed for beginner through advanced installers. Over the two days, we’ll walk through a complete epoxy flooring system from the very beginning of the job through the final finished floor.

We’ll cover:

• Evaluating the existing concrete
• Proper surface preparation
• Grinding and concrete profiling
• Moisture testing
• Primers and base coats
• Full broadcast flake systems
• Metallic epoxy systems
• Proper broadcasting and application techniques
• Scraping and preparing the floor between stages
• Topcoat application and final finishing
• Equipment setup and operation
• Product selection and proper usage
• Common problems installers run into and how to address them
• Questions about starting, growing, or adding epoxy flooring to your existing business

This training will also be the first contractor demonstration of Gravity Lock Systems, our custom professional epoxy flooring product line.

Representatives from ASTC Global, the manufacturer of the products, will be there throughout the training. This gives everyone the opportunity to speak directly with the people behind the chemistry and ask technical questions about the products, applications, systems, troubleshooting, and different types of flooring projects.

We’ll also be using Onfloor professional surface preparation equipment throughout the training, with representation available to help explain the equipment, proper setup, grinding techniques, tooling, and what someone would need if they were building out their own epoxy flooring operation.

If this is your first time working with epoxy, you won’t be expected to figure everything out on your own. We’ll have a full group of experienced people there helping throughout both days, walking attendees through each stage of the installation and explaining what is happening and why.

For contractors who are considering adding epoxy flooring to their business, this is also a chance to get access to the resources needed to get started. You’ll be able to learn about the flooring products, equipment, installation process, and people you can work with moving forward.

Dates: September 16–17
Location: Low Country Building Solutions
700 River Avenue, Suite 330
Pittsburgh, PA 15212

The training is completely free, and free lunch will be provided both days.

Whether you’re an experienced epoxy installer, general contractor, concrete contractor, painter, remodeler, garage contractor, or someone looking for a new service to add to your business, you’re welcome to attend.

The goal is to give everyone a chance to actually see a professional flooring system installed from start to finish, ask questions directly to the people manufacturing the products and supplying the equipment, and leave with a much better understanding of what it takes to complete these floors correctly.

If you’re interested in attending, comment below or send me a message and I can get you the full details and help get you registered.

Hello :D

I am trying to make a little project of 7 Wayfinder from Kingdom Hearts.
So, I used this, it is made out of stainless steel.

I wanna fill the tear shaped parts with colored transparent UV epoxy resin.
Is there something I need to lookout for specifically, I know I gotta use a heat dryer for the bubbles.
But how much resin should I use (estimated) since I heard it puffs up when used?
I want to use epoxy resin tape for the bottom, warping around- If anyone got better advice, do tell please :3

Any advice for mixing or general ideas would be appreciated.

I’m in Queens, NY and looking to get my concrete garage floor coated. It was poured less than a year ago, has remained practically untouched, and is a bit less than 300 square feet.

Is finding someone through an app like Thumbtack a risky idea?

Are there any known reliable companies in the area that someone on here might be able to recommend reaching out to?

Any tips or advice would be very appreciated!

Contractor here, not a homeowner. Client wants the stairs and landing epoxy coated. Double-wide back stairwell, previously coated/painted, wear-through on treads, some staining.

White painted brick walls on both sides that need masking. Outdoor, sun + freeze-thaw.

Looking for:

What you’d charge in your area. Im in Northern VA.

And the system you’d actually use (not a box-store kit)

Prep you’d insist on over existing coating

Anything I’m missing on exterior stairs (slip, UV, drain on landing)

I’m thinking UV-stable polyaspartic or epoxy + aliphatic topcoat with broadcast grit, not straight garage epoxy. Rough guess on my end is mid-$2k to mid-$3k depending on grind/patch. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. First tome doing this so I may charge a little less if it takes me more time

What would you charge — exterior concrete stairs + landing coat

Hi all,
For context; I’m building my first epoxy table, Live edge with river flow.

Context: The table is a Walnut live edge with blue clear epoxy river flow.

The pour was supposed to be two layers.
I poured the first layer and ran into several issues:

Issue 1: 12hrs after I poured the first layer, I had weights on the wood slabs but decided to use additional clamps to help hold it down. When I clamped it down I saw the wood slabs had floated and so epoxy over flowed and onto the slabs where I scraped the excess back into the river. The issue now is I have bubbles that I can’t blow out because it was in the tacky stage. On top of that, the epoxy formed like wavy patterns because most likely the epoxy I put back on top, but I don’t think it looks bad. What should I do to fix this issue? (This is 100% my fault, clamping it prior would of avoided this mess)

Issue 2: Although my level said the table was leveled, it was slightly not leveled enough and I have more epoxy on one side than the other. Once the first layer drive, I will have to compensate for this in my second pour (most likely and easy fix if done right).

Issue 3: Because the epoxy over flowed back on the slab, some of it naturally got into the wood. That being said, the table is set to be planned afterwards anyways so I believe that epoxy stains wont be much of an issue.

I appreciate all the advice and feedback.
Thanks

Can someone help me out I done a repour and I got a lot bubbles so can I sand it down to make it look good if so what’s grit should I use or would I need to lightly sand it and do a repour?

I have an old set of tv trays that I would like to try putting vinyl stickers on and covering with epoxy. I have watched a lot on YouTube but will take any advice on the steps and supplies. Thank you

Looking for a DIY friendly option to seal up these cracks in my garage floor. 5 year old floor. Old settling house. Just want to seal up these perimeter cracks to prevent water getting behind and help lengthen the lifespan of the floor.

I have an old set of tv trays that I would like to try putting vinyl stickers on and covering with epoxy. I have watched a lot on YouTube but will take any advice on the steps and supplies. Thank you

Garage floor gassed yesterday after applying primer at 630pm. 1980 concrete, great shape for the age, located atop a shale dominant hillside. Grinded and prepped to spec. Idk if it was the weather? Dry for 3 or 4 days straight but it was a cold morning that warmed up close to 80F. it’s a 100% solid primer (what I’m reading this is not the best but too late). How should I proceed before base coat and 80lb of flake ? Not a complete disaster but I’ve got 50-75 bubbles up to the size of a skittle. Wouldn’t say I’m at wits end.. more just numb to the endless prep. Any advice is appreciated.

I bought this pewter ear piece at a ren fair over the weekend. The guy used epoxy to stick fake gems into the eyes of this dragon, but it's been 5 days and the epoxy has not cured. It's still tacky and sticky. I'm not sure what type of epoxy they used, I would assume it's a two part epoxy. Is there a way to help it finish curing? Or a way for me to fix it on my own and make it safe to wear? I never worked with epoxy, but id like to fix and wear this if possible. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Recovered this one from a root system in Edenvale, Gauteng back in February -- it's a longitudinal flare that branches into a real Y about a third of the way along, not just a forked outline but an actual structural split.

What's interesting is what happens to the grain right at the fork. Instead of breaking or redirecting sharply around the split like you'd expect, it compresses hard through the inner curve of the branch point, then eases back out into lower-density wood toward the outer zones on either side. You can feel the weight difference just from one end to the other.

There's a touch of hairline checking at the terminal edge -- nothing structural, just cosmetic, the kind of thing that happens naturally as a root section this shape dries. Bark's holding on well along most of it, with one section starting to show a slight natural gap.

MC came in at 10-12% on a pin meter reading taken on the sanded face about a month after it was field seasoned. One piece, this exact one shown, 520x210x45mm.

Curious whether anyone's poured resin through an actual branch-point like this before -- does the density shift at the fork change how it takes a pour, or does it behave the same as any other transition zone once it's sealed?

The top coat has not been applied yet. They came back today to correct some “uneven application” and are supposed to be back tomorrow to finish. Thanks in advance!