Frequently Asked Questions
Do water changes slow down the cycle?
Nope! They are merely a tool to remove excess toxins and dissolved solids, when done correctly.
Can I use bottled bacteria to speed up cycling?
Sort of. It certainly doesn't hurt, but it will not be instant. Your cycle will likely take anywhere from 2-6 weeks to establish even with regular dosing.
Can I use water from an established tank?
Yes, but there will be very little benefit other than being pre-conditioned. Beneficial bacteria live in filter media or on tank surfaces, not in the water column.
Do live plants help with cycling?
YES! They absorb nitrates and provide additional surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow.
Why are my ammonia levels not going down?
Your bacteria are not well established yet. Keep dosing and be patient!
Why are my nitrite levels so high?
The first beneficial bacteria colony is well established, but the second hasn't caught up yet. Once again, keep dosing and be patient.
Why are my nitrates still at 0?
It will take time for both bacteria colonies to fully establish and begin that conversion. Patience is key!
My tank is cloudy. Is that normal?
This can be caused by a bacterial bloom and is usually a good sign! It will clear up on its own in a few days to a week or so if this is the case. If you are worried, feel free to post a picture and include anything you have added to the tank.
Can I clean my filter during the cycle?
This is not recommended unless there is a flow issue. In this case, rinse your filter media in a container filled with tank water to remove debris. Do not deep clean your filter or rinse with tap water.
Will replacing my filter cartridge crash my cycle?
Not necessarily, but there is a strong possibility. I personally recommend switching from cartridges to other forms of media before starting the cycle. If you choose to stick with cartridges, be aware of the risks involved with cartridge changes and mitigate accordingly. Make sure that if it has activated charcoal, you have a backup plan for if/when you give medications, as activated charcoal will remove them from the water column.
Can I turn my filter off?
Absolutely not. The filter should always remain on during the cycling process.
Does temperature affect cycling?
Temperature has a negligible effect on cycling if it isn't at extremes.
Does pH affect cycling?
If pH is not stable, it can affect a cycle negatively. Stability is more important than any magic number you are trying to achieve with additives.
Can I add snails or shrimp before the cycle is complete?
It depends. Adding pest snails (such as ramshorn, bladder, pond, or Malaysian trumpet snails) during a cycle is a common practice and can provide a small, steady stream of ammonia without poisoning themselves. Do not add shrimp, as they need a well-aged tank to thrive, and large snails (such as mystery or nerite snails) are likely to die and cause bad parameter spikes.
What are the most common signs that a fish is sick?
You may start to notice your fish is lethargic, has ripped fins, is sinking when they try to swim, has reddened gills and fins, or develops weird looking bumps or spots on their body that are not normal to their coloration. Any change in behavior or appearance that concerns you should be investigated further.
How can I distinguish illness from normal fish behavior?
If you have not kept a fish before, understanding their natural behaviors before getting them will help you notice when they aren’t behaving correctly. Most fish are shy at first but do eventually explore the aquarium setup. If you notice they are lethargic, staying hidden, or are engaging in “glass surfing” (a behavior where they skate back and forth across the glass walls of the tank), go ahead and perform a water test and observe the fish closer for a while.
Why might a fish be staying at the bottom or hiding?
Catfish and loach species tend to love the bottom of the tank, but if another species of fish stays at the bottom or hiding for prolonged amounts of time, they may be tired or stressed. This can indicate something is wrong, either with the décor setup, parameters, or some form of illness.
Why might a fish be gasping at the surface?
Gasping at the surface can indicate a lack of oxygen, toxins in the water, too much CO2, or ammonia burned gills. Perform a water change and test your parameters IMMEDIATELY. If you are using CO2 in your setup, check your pH and see what the shift is. Note that for labyrinth organ breathers (such as bettas and gourami), occasionally gulping air is completely normal. Gasping at the surface in distress is not.
What is a quarantine tank, and when should I use one?
A quarantine tank is an easy to clean, separate setup from your main tank. Many fishkeepers use one to prevent illness from spreading to their community tanks. They are often bare bottom, smaller than the main tank, and either use no filter or a sponge filter with no truly established cycle, so that there is no worry of crashing it when medicating your fish. Some fishkeepers even use a 5 gallon bucket or plastic tub. A quarantine tank in use should have daily water changes.
You should use a quarantine tank whenever you buy fish intended for an established community tank, to monitor your new fish and make sure they do not accidentally bring an illness into your established setup. You can also use the quarantine tank as a hospital setup when a fish must be isolated from your tank for treatment.
How can I prevent diseases from entering an established aquarium?
A quarantine tank is your best option! Always vet your fish sources as well and ask them about any recent illness outbreaks and how they were treated.
When should I treat an entire tank versus isolating one fish?
When a contagious disease is present, treating your entire tank is the best option. This prevents any infected fish that haven’t become symptomatic yet from experiencing undue stress in the long run. In these cases, using immune system boosters such as aquarium salt can be helpful as well. Always research any medications you add and their safety for your community, as some fish and invertebrates are sensitive to salt and medications.
When a single fish is showing symptoms of illness and it does not appear to be a potential contagion, isolating that fish for treatment is prudent. You can also isolate fish for treatment if they are not compatible with the medication the rest of your tank needs; for example, some catfish species are sensitive to salt, so you may elect to treat them in the main tank with just medication and move the other members of your community to a medicated and salted tank.