I’m in the Northwest suburbs of Chicago and I’ve been looking into getting into appliance repair, but I’m not really sure what to expect as far as how much work I will get as an independent contractor. I keep hearing that more people are buying new machines that aren’t worth repairing and learning to repair machines from YouTube. Is this a growing or dying trade? TIA

Hey y'all had a call for a countertop microwave that's mounted up with a bezel trim kit so it's one of those the customer would really like to be able to save it. No activity with it at all, will take time and count down but no fan, no magnetron, no turntable. So my usual protocol is to run a model number through Service Matters to pull tech sheets and parts lists before heading out to a call and then putting them in the customers file so I can pull them all up in basements with sketchy reception.

This also lets me confirm if the parts I suspect it is are unavailable and save some folks money, nobody likes paying my call out fee only for me to tell them the part they need is NLA. Anyways this unit only has a 3 page parts diagram and it doesn't outline any actual parts stating "THIS MODEL IS A REPLACEMENT WARRANTY MODEL. THE ONLY SERVICE PARTS AVAILABLE ARE THE TURNTABLE PARTS LISTED ABOVE. DO NOT SCHEDULE A SERVICE CALL FOR THESE MODELS."

Soooooo is she dead Jim? Surely I could put some new whirlpool parts in this thing? It says made in China on it and I'm wondering if it's actually Whirlpool produced? Not sure when they moved all their manufacturing oversees but this is a 2016 model so I'm betting by then?

Model: WMC30516AB0

Serial: 62700247

https://s3.amazonaws.com/sm-backend-production-attachments/parts-list-W10571373-RevC.pdf

My subscription is about to renew. What are you guys that aren't factory authorized/doing warranty work using for tech sheets?

My own research seems to be Marcone (msa) vs Appliance Tech Info vs appliantology.

I use appliantology now. It seems to have everything but you got to dig for it sometimes. I read good stuff from this reddit and fb groups about appliance tech info.

Need a repair guy stat for an elderly lady’s oven.
Lemme know who you got!

I have a fan motor that gets 12.7 vdc. Has anyone else tried the substitution. The new fan says 9.75vdc. The current motor for the product is NLA

Went to an electric dryer the other day that was heating as soon as the timer was turned on. Checked the tech sheet and the only way it could get the other leg was if the centrifugal switch was stuck closed. Today I finally figure out they the element was shunted to ground. Not even a rudimentary attempt was made to keep the element insulated from ground.

Is there any way to learn all the ins and outs of all these appliances without just missing things then never forgetting? I understand that most techs only work on a smallish variety of machines and that makes it much easier, but I’m over here working on everything Midea to subzero and every appliance they make. Seems like it will take several years just to see and be half proficient and quickly diagnosing everything. Best way to speed this process up? Any thoughts or hints?

I’m a firefighter that’s getting close to retirement, but I’m only going to be 44 years old. I’m also a part time contractor for my families appliance repair company for the past 10 years which doesn’t provide benefits. We do a lot of whirlpool, ge, and Frigidaire warranty, but we work on pretty much everything residential. My wife has medical disabilities so I’m looking for something I can do at home with benefits so I can take care of her. Unfortunately in Mississippi when you retire you don’t get to keep your insurance.
Any Techline guys on here that can give me an idea of what the hours, pay, and benefits are like? Whirlpools job site is pretty vague.

What do you guys use when a compressor won't start up? I've been using the RCO810 3 in 1 because that's what I was originally trained to use, but I've heard they're risky and create a lot of liability and can cause fires. Master Samurai says to always use the OEM relay, but I can't stock 100 different start relays on my truck and some are discontinued. Also customers don't want to hear they're fridgE start up and then be told that I need to order a part and they're going to lose all their food in the meantime.

I've heard rumors of a universal relay that works for both r600a and r134a compressors but I don't know if I believe that. What are you guys using? Are you just using 3 in 1s for testing or to buy time on a seized up compressor? Do you order an OEM relay or just use one that looks close enough?

I remember when I was learning appliance repair being taught that most control board "failures" were misdiagnosed. And when I first started that was true, I might have a call or two a week that was actually a control board. Now I do control boards more than almost any other part on 2015-2020 and newer appliances. Dryer not heating? Control board. Fresh food warm but freezer covered in rime ice? Defrost failure? Nope, control board. LG LE error? RPS sensor? Stator? Nope, control board not sending power. Its ridiculous. This shouldn't be a thing on 2-3 year old appliances, even 5 year old.

I just had a control board failure on a '24 LG dryer. Last week 2 control boards on almost brand new refrigerators (but just out of warranty). Not sure how we got to the point where they fail this easily but its ridiculous. Especially on dishwashers where the control board or UI board alone can be the cost of the dishwasher itself. I miss old mechanical defrost timers and bi metal failures on refrigerators. I still get them, but more often than not on newer appliances its the control. It makes it a lot harder to sell repairs when the part cost alone starts at nearly half the appliances value (obviously not for fridges, but other appliances).

How many of you do field repairs on boards or relays? I have swapped relays a time or two upon request but I don't warranty them and I prefer not to do them because I dont want to leave and have them spread a bad word because it failed again in x amount of time after I left.

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Hey guys I have parts that Ilisted on EBAY but because of there predator ways and price gouging on top of the very bad customer service, I decided to pull the parts off there platform. So here we are, I'll list below part/part# of all that i have.

All of the parts are brand new, just open box. Shoot me a message if you need anything.

Hinges Assembly PT # W11766665

Dryer Motor PT # 134196602

Samsung Defrost Heater PT # DA-00424L

Temp Sensor Oven PT # 00630873

Door Latch PT # WD21X10490

WATER Valve refrigerator PT # W10408179

Inlet Valve Washer PT # 5521ER1003A

LG Heating Element PT # 5301FR2076G

Inlet Valve PT # W11210459

Water Pump PT # WPW10605427 (2X)

BOSCH igniter PT # 00631633

Dishwasher Board PT # W10917737

Microwave Board PT # W11325786

Samsung Water filter PT # DA-9713850A

GE Circulation and Sump (Idk the oart # on this one)

What insurance companies do you guys currently use for General Liability Insurance?

I have called numerous companies and l've learned most companies are no longer insuring residential appliance repair folks. When I ask why, they say it's to high risk.

I actually did get two quotes....one for $630/month and the other for $703/month.
You guys can't be paying those prices. 

Please drop some insurance company names in the comments that you recommend. Thanks!

Hi Ops, Who here has applied for Express appliance repair? I just want to ask how long it will take to know the results of the final interview? TIA

Hey everyone.

I'm working on a Thermador fridge that had water leak in the top evaporator and down to the display board. The display board went out, with multiple connectors being corroded.

After cleaning the corrosion and mickey mousing the connector back together, we realized that the display board works. The harness needs to be replaced though, due to the aforementioned mickey mousing. The fun part is, Thermador doesn't sell this harness separately. It is part of the display board assembly, even though it is fully detachable, and costs almost $900.

After some research I found out it's a RAST connector. Looks like RAST 2.5mm pitch. Now I found the connector for sale on a few websites, like digikey, that will take a couple of weeks to deliver it. I also don't know if I can hand crimp it, or need a tool for that. I was hoping to find a pigtail connector that I can solder to my existing wires.

Anyone know where I can get it locally or online with faster turnaround times? Or what's the right move here? I'm in SoCal.

In this fridge the LEDs weren't working when the tenants took over. Whirlpool WRX986SIHZ00. At first. Voltage test to various leds was 4 to 6 volts DC. Got a new LED supply board. When installed, LEDs flickered like a disco. I left them in assuming capacitor might need to charge. Checked back, and they are all the same brightness. Now reading 12 to 15 respectively across a few tests. Whirlpool calls for 14v DC. Given even bright, and volt tests. Im ready to say done. Any thoughts or experience with this

I am a solo operator and as with anyone else, learning every day. That being said the skill of most techs in my area is fucking terrible. I have been called to jobs that people have thrown parts at, 2-3 call backs each, couldn't fix and it was a simple repair to begin with. Met "techs" that didn't know how to use a multimeter, etc.

For me, even 1 call back or 1 misdiagnosed job is a loss. Even if repaired successfully, a extra drive back or an extra part or time spent basically makes it a wash. Hearing the amount of people that have gotten 2-3-4 callbacks on a single repair is crazy. How does your business even survive on that?

On that note, those of you that scaled your business how did you go about finding good techs? There are days I barely trust myself or I have to second guess my self many times. Lots of days where I almost make a big mistake but catch myself. Someone working for me would have fucked shit up for sure. On top of that, if you are REALLY good at diagnosing stuff, taking things apart, reading diagrams and fixing shit why would they even work for someone knowing they are more compenent than like 90% of the industry? I imagine training in house helps but there is SO much to learn and so many quirks of machines you really dont know until you've done it several times. I would imagine it would take a ton of time to get someone green to be skilled and ready to diagnose/tackle most repairs, and there isn't a huge margin to take on baggage in this industry for a long period of time i feel like..

Bot freezer

No ice buildup

No frost buildup

No water below crispers

No ice bottom of freezer

Good airflow

Coils cleaned with vacuum as well as blowing dust off with compressed air

No matter what settings the temp is at (freezer currently -3, fridge at 40) no change

These settings were not always what it was set at, we’ve been playing with it for about a month seeing if it matters what we set it to, it does not

Edit: I am an appliance tech AND this is my fridge. Ai flags “no dit yourselvers in this sub” when I try and hit submit, so I’m putting this in hopes that it fucks right off

I'm lost trying to diagnose GFW550SSN5WW. It's spinning slow for 5 seconds then stops.

First it was giving me inverter errors. As per the tech sheet I replaced the inverter board.

Still the same thing, but now it's a hall sensor error. So I replaced the accelerometer.

First question Is the hall sensor integrated on the motor and I was being dumb with replacing the accelerometer? I can't seem to find any info on this. I've never replaced a motor on one of these, so I'm not too familiar with it.

Also I'm looking at a technical service guide and it says the motor windings should be 14.2 ohms. Mine shows around 3 ohms. Someone on r/appliancerepair said it should be 3.5 ohms. Am I misunderstanding something?

Just wanted to ask around here if anybody else has encountered this issue and also to ask what you guys are doing about it. A lot of the older GE freestanding ranges have their control boards sub over to a new part that ships with a sheet of like 50 different model numbers and you have to set the personality to your specific unit. Some of them make you look up the original part number and swap it over to the right personality based off the original part number.

That’s all well and good in theory but the issue that we’ve ran into several times over the last couple years is, we will order the new substitute part number and then the board comes with a sheet of paper that doesn’t have the right personality information on it. Either the modeling question won’t be listed on the sheet or the original part number won’t be listed.

Are we just ordering the wrong sub part? Are they listed wrong online? I really don’t know but this issues come up at least three or four times for us in the last year or two.

WB27X45466 is an example, the sheet that was included doesn’t have the right info on it.

Anyone familiar with these GE cafe fridges, CWE19SP4NW2.

Have an intermittent cooling issue in the refrigerator section and ice around the freezer door. Gasket looks good, but I replaced it anyways. No other faults there.

However, when I have the unit plugged in/running, after a few minutes of the freezer door being open, the unit defaults to defrost. Also, the evap fan randomly starts running while the freezer door is open/off. I hit the door switch, it stops. When I let go, after 10 seconds, evap fan starts running.

I put unit on cooling off mode, same thing. Door open, evap fan starts running. Changed the main control just for fun, same scenario.

I got unit into test mode, everything checks out fine.

Smarthq isn't available in Canada, so that's no help.

Is this normal operation for these units?

Hey guys,

What are you guys using for aftermarket options now that supco is gone? My supply of lupni1 and heating elements is running low.

I just had to replace a Maytag fan motor, $277CAD retail cost to the customer. Insane.

I have started giving the option of Amazon parts, offered with no warranty.

Any other brands? I'm in Canada so get my parts from reliable/amre and marcone.

Hello, I was offered a position to do warranty work for an LG and Samsung authorized partner. I’ve been a tech since April of ‘24, but never did much with the sealed system portions of fridges beyond diagnosing bad compressors or restrictions.

I understand how the system works, like what the compressor, condenser, evaporator, dryer, Yoder loop and capillary lines do. Depending on my knowledge I’ll be able to keep the job or get let go, which I would hate as this would be life changing for me. The steady pay check with volume beats gambling my income between repairs and service calls.

I’d like to ask if you always fill the system with nitrogen after replacing a component, or do you use your vacuum pump? The way they were doing it during training was remove components, replace components, draw vacuum, refill system, then test for leaks at the lokrings.

They work with r134a and r600. I was told those have different operating pressures with the inverter compressors. I should expect to see anywhere between 5 to -5 on inverters with r600a on the low side, and between 55-70psi on the high side.

I wasn’t given pressures for r134a, but from my experience, between 0-5psi on the low.

My questions are-
1. What would be the proper procedure for replacing sealed system components?
-They would just cut and vent the refrigerant, sand the connections, then slap the lokrings on. AFAIK you’re supposed to recover it.
2. How can you diagnose a restriction without looking at the evap coils?
-The 2 techs I was training with knew without looking at the coils.
3. What pressures should I expect to see on the system using an inverter compressor depending on the refrigerant used?
4. Do you always use nitrogen through the system, or is it just to get rid of a restriction/pressure test?
4a- Do you always pressure test when replacing components or not?
5. Any other things I need to ask or know for this?

Any advice related to this would really help. Wednesday I’m supposed to speak with the head of the company and depending on how that goes I’m let go or kept to do hass training and then start work with them

I’ve been a Duluth flex fire hose cargo pants dude for the past 7 our my 10 year career so far. I’m tired of their prices and dwindling quality, but am needing new pants. What are we all wearing? I’m looking at some Carhartts right now, but would like to know what else is out there. I’m not opposed to 100 a pair but need them to last, especially in the knees

Howdy, I have another Amana top load where the drain is constantly on, that old chestnut, but this time there’s an added variable so I thought I’d ask the experts.

NTW4519JW2

Cycles work fine, until they are complete, after about a second, drain pump engages and runs until the lid is opened, then it stops

When the lid is closed it DOES NOT continue, it also does NOT happen throughout the cycle, it ONLY happens at the cycle complete stage

So very similar to the “drain pump always on” issue, but this is my first time dealing with this variation, so I’m just looking for confirmation that this is the same problem manifesting in a similar but different way

Thanks yall!

Model number CFLE1011MW2

I can follow the instructions on the tech sheet to get it to go into diagnostic (what a fucking pain) but none of the boards, nor does the control panel have any sort of led or indicator of any kind.

The tech sheet says “based on how the legs light up will tell you different error codes” blah blah blah

There are no LEDs on this machine

What the fuckkkkk do I do

Bonus actual reason for callout:

Dryer spins but no heat

Washing machine will lock but then the board just clicks over and over but no water ever fills

I have 240 at the machine

I've been asked to fix a an old coin op Maytag unit.

Dryer on top washer on bottom.

It's displaying a code F11.

Dryer still works, washer does not.

I took it all apart and noticed that the drum weight bashed one of the sensors to pieces.

My thoughts are to buy a new sensor (think it's a pressure switch) and new shocks for the drum so it doesn't happen again.

Any advice? Right course of action?