My husband is fixing the outlet where the stove will be hooked up. When he showed me the wires above, I told him that doesn't look safe. He said he capped the wires with really long caps and that should help with a fire hazard. The wires are black, white, red, and a fourth that has no electricity.

I still don't think that is right. Would buying some type of metal electrical box and shoving those wires in the box be better?

Hey there! My house was pre-wired for EV charging, but no outlet or GFI.

I bought a Q0 GFI (50A), and a EV rated outlet with metal box (Leviton).

I don’t anticipate charging at more than 20-30A, so this would suffice.

My question is: is it ok to drill holes in the box such that the left side aligns with the stud? I don’t want to mount on a drywall anchor.

Also, I don’t want to mount the outlet in the 2-gang PVC box.

Looking for cord to connect these 🙏🏻

Last time I timed myself I got 2:38 for an outlet install.

My Foreman asked me to install 140 outlets for a custom house in an 8 hour shift. Thats counting NEMA plugs, counter top plugs, cabinet plugs, and GFCI. Probably did a little more than half. He's been giving me a hard time about being to slow so idk if just need to figure it out or tell him to go fuck himself lmao.

Yesterday, I was replacing the switches in my master bath (with paddle-style switches) and was somewhat surprised to run across this old school method of windowing or stripping the insulation inline to wrap the screw terminal on each upstream switch using a continuous hot line - rather than using a pigtail on each switch as I had encountered everywhere else. Granted, this is the only 4-gang in the entire home, but I’m glad I was able to identify this excessively stripped conductor before it became a problem. (Before removing these, that was extremely close to the ground. (n.b., from 2009 new construction, Oklahoma.)

So I have my power off, got the old outlet off and cut/stripped the wire to feed it into the new outlet. Only I didn't realize that the new outlet needs 14g and the wires are 12g. I saw a couple things saying I could pigtail around the screws on the outlet and some saying it's even preferred still over doing push through anyways. Am I safe to do this? I'm replacing like, a dozen outlets and need to make sure this will be safe so I don't burn down the whole house.

Bought this house a while back and it has an older style 24 space panel installed. At this point I’m even willing to buy the whole box to pull the cover off to use so I don’t have to have an entire new panel installed.

There are a few GE breakers in it so it could be an older GE panel.

It’s a hair over 27” long with about 8” above and below where all the breakers sit. Just a hair over 12” wide and about 19” between the screw holes on each side.

Any and all help finding or even determining the potential panel model would be a life saver for me.

alright this has been bugging me for a while. I work on 12V stuff for my 4WD – just lighting, fridge, sometimes a small inverter. and I keep seeing fuse ratings that don't make sense to me compared to what I remember from house wiring.

like, on a 240V circuit, a 10A fuse gives you about 2400W of headroom. but on 12V, a 10A fuse is only 120W. I know it's basic Ohm's law but I keep seeing people in 4x4 forums recommending 30A fuses for a single light bar and I'm like isn't that overkill? or am I missing something about DC current being harder to interrupt or whatever.

is it about inrush current? or do DC fuses behave differently from AC ones? would appreciate any clarity from someone who knows what they're talking about.

Hello everyone!

My boyfriend is an electrician, and he has been struggling to pass his third year branch exam. I was wondering if anyone has any opinions or ideas for other career paths if he decides this trade isn’t going to work for him. He loves his work, and he loves the trade, but the exam has really gotten him down.

I’d appreciate any sort of wisdom or advice!

Hello! New here and it my first post I need help finding this fans power cord. I moved and my movers threw it away and it’s hot asf here. I’m waiting on my fafsa to come through so I cannot buy another fan yet. I thought I could try to find the exact cord or something that will work not cause a fire I didn’t want to use AI. Here are the specs of the power cord and the fan:

Fan Model: Better Homes & Gardens 9" Black Adjustable Pedestal Fan (Model BHS036111442907).
Motor Type: Brushless DC Motor (10-Speed).
Required Input: 24V DC [Image Input].
Power Capacity: 35 Watts [Image Input].
Required Amperage: 1.46 Amps to 2 Amps (35W / 24V = 1.46A) [Image Input].
Physical Plug Dimension: Industry standard 5.5mm outer diameter x 2.1mm inner pin round barrel jack.

I just bought this online from Home Depot when I installed it I realized that the circuit breakers in there are not North American breakers there designed for the United Kingdom. Hence they operate on 50 Hz. Here in United States we operate on 60 Hz will this cause extreme tripping? And if so, would replacing these breakers with UL 489 breakers that operate at 60 Hz rectify this problem? It should be noted that these are Dinrail breakers.

So, I've now run into this twice. I pull a broken spst light switch to replace it and find that none of the other switches in the box grounded. Both in plastic boxes. This has happened in two different houses: one in Memphis TN built in '98 and another in Madison MS built in 2015. What's up with this? Hasn't grounding the switches been required since grounding became required?

1985 Gould Panel (from what I can’t tell). Home inspector told me it could use some TLC when I bought the house. I want to get this fixed but didn’t know if this posed an immediate fire hazard “must get fixed now” risk. This is the outside panel. My inside panel is much cleaner with no issues. I’m in Mississippi. Also there is a cover to the panel.

I obviously will fix it (was hoping in a few years maybe get it replaced) but I want to keep my family safe so was hoping it’s not a huge major fire hazard

This is the situation I found in my ceiling when taking down an old boob light and trying to install a new light. The electrical box in the ceiling literally wiggles but ok I'll just work around that for now. I found a light that would cover the hole. My house was built in 1968 the wires in the ceiling are so thick compared to the ones on the new light its a pain to wrap the tiny peices of wire around these thick wires but I thought I had managed to do it. I connected Red wire to black -the wire with the black cap. (that was the hot wire when I took the old light down) and white to white- the wire with the red cap. Then connected the swirly wire to the copper ground. The other capped wire was always pushed up into the ceiling so I didn't touch it.

When I flipped the breaker I heard a pop, the breaker tripped and the light switch got hot. Now im calling an electrician because im scared. I took the light down and capped the wires until i get him out here. What caused the pop i thought I had all the wires connected correctly ive put up 5 similar lights in my house with no issues. Maybe a bare wire was touching the mounting bracket ? I also didn't try shoving the wires back in the hole after I got them connected cause it's crowded in there already.. Or is it this jacked up ceiling box with the gaping hole? The other boob light was connected fine I just had to mess with it. Also what is it going to cost an electrician to put up this light and fix the electrical box. I took the light switch plate off to check for burnt marks after the switch got hot it looked OK but I also don't know what im looking for .The 3rd pic is how I had the bracket on only with the screws screwed in all the way it was flush for the most part. that's basically where I left the wires when I had connected the new light. Any help is appreciated im so paranoid about electrical fires. Is it OK to leave the wires capped like this for now or should I try putting the old boob light back on

Update: I got it up with some help from my dad apparently I had 2 wires touching on the light that weren't supposed to be touching. The directions werent helpful I got them separated and the light works. It's in there pretty solid and I'm 98% sure it won't fall out of the ceiling and I didn't hit any wires with the drywall screws I used

Hey everyone,

I’m looking for some advice from people who actually work in the electrical industry.

I recently finished the academic requirements for the 2-year Electrical Engineering Technician program at Georgian College in Barrie, Ontario.

Since starting my job search, I’ve submitted around 160+ confirmed applications through Indeed, LinkedIn, company career websites and direct applications. I’ve applied for Electrical Technician, Controls/Automation Technician, Field Service Technician, Test Technician, Junior Electrical Designer, CAD, panel/switchgear assembly, maintenance and entry-level apprenticeship positions.

I’ve also been changing my resume depending on the job instead of sending exactly the same one everywhere.

For experience, I worked around 8 months as an electrical helper before coming to Canada, assisting electricians with cable pulling, wire routing, materials and general installation work. I also completed a Quality Inspector co-op at Honda in Alliston.

From college, I have hands-on training with PLC ladder logic, motor controls, three-phase systems, transformers, electrical testing, troubleshooting and AutoCAD Electrical. I also completed an 11-sheet AutoCAD Electrical control drawing project.

I have an Ontario G2 license and I’m open to relocating anywhere in Ontario or even elsewhere in Canada for the right opportunity. I’m also fine with field work, shifts and travel.

Right now I’m working outside my field while trying to get that first proper technical job.

For people working in the industry, what would you do in my situation?

Should I keep focusing on technician/controls/field service positions, or would it make more sense to focus on getting into a 309A or 442A apprenticeship?

Are there certain companies or industries that are better for someone trying to get their first electrical technician job?

Also, if anyone knows a company that is actually hiring entry-level people and thinks my background could fit, I’d appreciate a lead or introduction. I can send my resume privately.

Thanks for any advice.

So I’m 19, not currently enrolled in college but I’m going back soon. Anyways I decided a few years ago although I’m not too much of a blue collar guy, I would be very interested in electric. Between the pay, the fact that it looked fun when I took classes for it in highschool or helped fix stuff around the house, and the higher job security especially with the rise of AI.

It’s been my plan to join the local IBEW, and stick with them either forever or branch off and start my own company. But recently I’ve learned the local IUEC makes way more money for work that isn’t *too* different. Journeyman wages are $63 for ibew and $$85 for iuec. Big difference. So I’m curios from what you guys know, what would the pros and cons to both and what should definitely keep in mind when signing up for either? Thanks!

This has been this way longer than I care to admit.,,

What is it , and how do I fix it.. or return it to its original position?

I'm in the process of replacing my light switch with a smart light switch. I have braided electrical cabling. It's super corroded and the wires are exposed as per the picture. The parts that have already semi crumbled off I covered with electrical tape. The part that's going up into the wall is partially exposed.

My gut is telling me that this is cause for immediate concern. I just wanted to check with people who know more than I do.

For reference this is a pre-war apartment building in New York City. I just wanted to upgrade my space a little bit hopefully this isn't something that's going to have me not have power in my bedroom until this gets fixed. I hope management doesn't try to blame me for this as I didn't do anything but normal cosmetic work by trying to replace a light switch to a Smart lightt switch.

But always better safe than sorry.

Edit: I tried adding a picture to the post but it would not upload correctly. Here is a link for the picture of the garage door opener: https://imgur.com/a/hho85v8

Hello,

I just moved into a home a few weeks ago and we have experienced an issue with accidentally turning the garage door opener off and getting stuck outside. This seems to be because someone wired a receptacle outlet to the former light fixture in the ceiling to provide the garage door opener with a plug to get power (as seen in the picture). As inconvenient as making sure the light switch stays on, I know this isn't the biggest issue to have to deal with. However, I do suspect this setup must be violating some safety residential or electrical code, so that is why I'm here wanting to verify.

I did a little research by asking Gemini AI (I know AI isn't a professional but I needed somewhere to start) and it confirmed this is an "improper DIY setup". It also mentioned that this setup can be bad for the circuit board of the garage door opener, thus killing it. It apparently can also cause it to possibly lose its memory and stop working with the currently programmed remotes.

Gemini AI also mentioned this "-powering a primary electrical appliance through a switched lighting loop violates standard electrical safety practices and national standards (NEC 210.11 / 210.8)".

I'm no electrician, but I researched the codes a bit and this part stood out to me

*"*No Other Outlets: This specific circuit is reserved exclusively for the garage's receptacle outlets. It cannot feed interior lights, nor can it run to any other room in the house - These mandated outlets must be installed-- no higher than 5.5 feet off the ground".

To me it seems this part of the code is violated because as in the picture, the receptacle is clearly above 5.5ft and is feeding power to a light fixture that was installed in the ceiling of the garage.

My last concern is the electrical box popping out the ceiling for the receptacle power for the garage door opener and light fixture. As ugly as it is, is this another hazard?

I have already reached out to the property manager about this and they basically told me that it was done by a previous tenant and to tape the light switch to the ON position if its an issue...

I was hoping someone on here can confirm for me if there is an real concern with:

1. Having the garage door opener wired to the light switch instead of constant power.
2. Having the receptacle on the ceiling.
3. With the light fixture getting power from the receptacle in the ceiling.
4. With the electrical box coming out of the ceiling.

If any of this really is a hazard, can an electrical or safety code can be provided for me so I can have something ready for my response to the property manager about this? If there is no real issue, then please also let me know so I can drop this issue and move on to the next thing.

Thank you all for your time seeing this, as well to those who take the time to reply.

If he has gained the certificate and had more experience, it is regretful to get rid of it. The immigration to EV repair is optional without the forsake of previous skill and majors.