I 3d printed 5 years and yesterday was the first day to use a 0.2mm nozzle, printed with H2C but I only have one 0.2mm nozzle, so it turns out need 13.5 hrs printing time and over 100+ filament changes with flush for each time, but the result is great, by default it set to 0.1mm layer height so you can barely see those seam lines, look at "RS" red lines and "1/min x 1000" details, what a great piece.

by the way, the finger printed for another 45 min. The whole model diameter is only 110mm small.

Bambu pla ran for a little over an hour like this. And yes. That is the name of my printer 😭🤣

Hi all, I'm relatively new to 3d printing, and I bought a P1S with AMS a few days ago. Done a few prints, solid and multicolored, and they've worked beautifully, until last night.

I wanted to print a desk organizer so I set it up to print overnight. Woke up an hour ago to checked and it was all messed up. Does anyone know what might have gone wrong and how I can prevent it from happening again?

I've put the timelapse up.

The Filament I'm using is a generic Matte Black one I got from Amazon.

Any help would be appreciated thank you!

EDIT: Wow thank you all for replying! It's all been very overwhelming lol. I am currently at work so I can't quickly respond, but I will take a look when I get back.

Before I left for work I printed a Benchy and it printed flawlessly, so I can at least guess that it wasn't a clog.

Some are suggesting layer shift, or heat creep, or the build lifting off the plate causing the head to miss the build. It's alot of new terms for a newbie like me haha. I will try a few different prints and see if it happens again.

Thanks everyone for replying, I will get back here when I get home 😊

EDIT 2: hi everyone, me again lol. after seeing a bunch of people suggesting it, I have replaced the SD card with a much better SanDisk 32gb one. Doing a small print now to assess the usefulness of the new card, I will attempt the same print tonight and see if it makes a difference. Fingers crossed everyone! And once again thanks so much for the insane amount of help you guys have given me, I could never have expected a response like this :)

if anybody wants download it here is the link

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3248743-modern-puffy-pillow-lamp#profileId-3681579

works with the bambu led kit and led stripes...

if u want to scale it down it only work with stripes

main profile is in vase mode
- but i added the gcode for the mesh structure version in the downloads
- this gcode only works with a h2c/right 0.6 nozzle/extern filament

-i wouldnt recommend to change the gcode for other machines since u can destroy ur machine
-could work on a A2L H2D or H2S if the start and end are adjusted...

I just recently got a 3D printer and have been printing a variety of things, my longest print being about 6 hours so far, however I attempted to print this dragon and as you can see from the timelapse, didn’t go so well.

From what I understand it may have been a speed issue that prevented the wings from printing because they’re such fine detail and needed the supports. Is that right? Was it then an inevitable domino effect from there that also made the head not print as the wings weren’t there to print on?

When I checked on it this morning it only really had the error of being unable to extrude the last of the filament to complete the print but after I got the spool out, there were no clogs or kinks or anything.

I set the print from the app, not the program so would do it from the program so I can slow it down next time. Also, would using the white support filament that came with the printer help?

I’m just really confused and any help would be appreciated. The simpler the better as I’m pretty new.

I designed a tool for drawing straight lines parallel to the edge of a board. The tool has a stroke range of 10 to 150 mm and can fit pencils or markers up to a maximum diameter of 16 mm.

Link to the model: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3226990-straight-lines-tracer-tool#profileId-3654565

This is my 3rd go with TPU (95A) and longest print so far…

That's a bit crazy, tbh before my Bambu purchase I didn't even know about that something like IKEA SKADIS exists. Now it's going 24/7 with plates, connectors, trays, attachments 😂

TLDR;

AB2047 Bill is a dead bill walking, even though it passed, as ASTM has absolutely no interest or role in doing what the bill says they are responsible for doing.

Read the bill: https://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/billNavClient.xhtml?bill_id=202520260AB2047

Then read ASTM's statement from 3 days ago: https://www.astm.org/news/press-releases/astm-additive-manufacturing-policy-initiatives-role

The bill is unenforceable as no one will be writing the industry standards for firearm blocking technology. Therefore, there will be no compulsion for manufacturers to take on that responsibility.

The bill still needs to go in front of the Governor of California, who will likely sign it because he has no clue. But you can still reach out to his office and point him to these two links.

Governor of California: https://www.gov.ca.gov/contact/:

I've only been 3D printing for about 3 weeks, with roughly 340hrs between my A2L and X2D.

I've had maybe 4 print fails/issues. All but one of which were caused by something I did wrong. The only one I can say was the printer, was having timelapse turned on with my A2L. It would create little fingers/coral like branches at the seams. Once I turned that off, it never happened again.

But I feel like I constantly see people with their first printer and complaining about how awful it's been, everything fails, they can't seem to figure out what the issue is, etc.

My two big things I learned before even starting; Wash your build plate regularly with warm soapy water and a sponge, and keep your filament dry. I also try to calibrate every 100hr or so, just to be consistent. All my filament is dried and stored in dry boxes with desiccant that average I'd say roughly 15-20% RH.

Am I just lucky or do people just not know what they're doing?

I'm not saying I'm any better than anyone, I'm just genuinely curious if I've been lucky or if others just don't seem to follow some common sense steps when starting out.

Edit: I can also assume that my lack of problems is also likely contributed to the fact that most of what I've printed so far is straight off of Maker World. So others have already tuned most of the settings to where you can just click a button and print. But I've printed my fair share of models that I made, without issue.

Figured I'd post this here since the I printed this on my A1 using Bambu filament, and I posted my model on makerworld along with a B.O.M. and instructions.

I made a projector mount that supports a cheap sub-$40 projector over my table for playing D&D with Foundry locally. Add in craft/maker supplies I had on hand, and another ~$40 worth of parts. All in I would have spent under $100 if I hadn't bought the wrong thing a few times along the way.

Gives me a ~49" 16:9 play surface and the ability to stream to it over my network, plug in an HDMI, or display static images.

Not selling anything. No affiliate links. Licensed free to all (non-commercial). Hope somebody can get some use out of it.

I put the full B.O.M., build instructions, and the models for the all the 3d printed parts (which I designed) on makerworld. https://makerworld.com/en/models/3246473-tabletop-system-for-magcubic-sy300pro-projector#profileId-3678717

Happy to answer questions if anybody has any.

To get content to it, I'm running FoundryVTT from my home server, and I'm using another docker image called 'Games on Whales Wolf' to run a headless firefox instance that connects to my Foundry server.

Then I've got Monk's Common Display and use a laptop as my DM screen.

I also found that if I make a token with a white background in Tokenizer 2 and place in the same spot as the minis, it acts like a little spotlight for each mini.

EDIT: Fixed a typo.

This actually isn't nothing new especially AMS 2 units that get used. Had a issue with to much tention causing the AMS 2 to constantly retract and push filament until error. Ripped her all the way down and found the tention lever broke. 6k hours on the unit and first break on the AMS 2.

2 options, replace complete internal hub or print a new lever. Think in gonna take option 2. For those of you that encounter this there is a print file on makerworld to print you off a new one.

Printed all ten of these in Matte Bone White and it turned out to be the right call for a reason I did not anticipate. On a glossy filament every layer line catches the light and fights the wave pattern. Matte scatters it so the ridges read cleanly.

Bone White also has just enough warmth that it does not go clinical when lit. A cold white would have wrecked these.

Anyone else default to matte for anything light passes through?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3247157-aeolian-collection-wave-pendant-lamp-ikea-strala#profileId-3679633

First 2 photos are from a year ago and the other 4 are from a year later.

I found this cool model on Makerworld (https://makerworld.com/models/1390673) and wanted to print it for my hitch on my car. I used Bambu, Elegoo, and Polymaker PETG to print it. I live in a very hot desert that can average 115°+ for weeks on end. Just the other day it was a nice 118°. I wasn’t sure how the PETG would hold up with the heat so I said screw it and printed it. It’s held up amazingly well and has been on the car for multiple road trips as well. So here is the year update and how it’s doing and it’s great. Just a little dirty and a little warped. I think a few more walls would’ve made the black warp less.

About a year ago, I bought my first 3D printer. At that time, after a long clinical journey, I felt completely unmotivated and nothing really brought me joy anymore. While mindlessly scrolling through the internet, I bought my first Bambu Lab A1 Mini (aka "McDreamy").

Without any knowledge or plan at all, I printed my first Benchy and that was just the beginning of a journey I never expected. Over time, my confidence grew, the layer lines became less noticeable and the printer family kept growing. First came a P1S (aka "Freddy Prints Jr."), which found a new home with a friend after I upgraded to my H2C ("Freddy Prints Sr."). The tiny printing corner slowly turned into an entire hobby room.

I still catch myself standing in front of my printer like a little kid, wondering what else might be possible. Every time I browse through MakerWorld I'm blown away by the creativity of the community. Sometimes I honestly wonder how people even come up with these ideas. At this point it almost feels like there's a printable solution for every problem imaginable. Maybe not for everything... but I always say:

"You can't print love... but you can print for the people you love." ❤️

I still remember my first clogged nozzle, it honestly felt like the end of my printing journey, but every single time I thought "Well... I broke my printer. It is over.", someone had already found a solution within this community. Looking back, I'm sometimes more surprised by what I managed to repair than by the prints themselves.

What I enjoy most is that moment when an idea becomes something I can actually hold in my hands. That's also why I recently started learning Blender, it feels like the next chapter of this journey.

This hobby found me at a time when I honestly didn't know what to do with myself. It gave me something to look forward to and reminded me how rewarding it is to create something with your own hands... or at least let the printer do the hard work and then I sand the s*** out of those layer lines! 😄

Looking back at these attached photos, I also see mistakes and I see the journey. I see joy.

I had so many spaghetti failures that I genuinely considered opening an Italian restaurant, but just like a long noodle, even the most twisted journey finds its way to the end.

Thank you to everyone in this community for sharing your knowledge, your creativity, your models and your passion. ❤️

You helped me keep going. 🤍

Hi everyone! 👋🐉
I just finished this Dragon Ball lamp, inspired by the iconic scene of Kid Goku and his Great Ape transformation under the full moon 🌕🐒
The model is made of multiple parts, no AMS required, and the moon lights up with an LED. 💡
What do you think of the result? 😁🔥
I’ll leave the MakerWorld link in the comments if anyone wants to print it! 🐉

I recently joined a club with X2D. This is my first 3D printer, and my primary goal is to print engineering parts ranging from battery housings to chassis or even custom robot arms/bodies. I have experience with CAD, so I thought I could also design something unique for my projects instead of relying on pre-built parts from sellers. However, I’m curious to know what people use their printers for. Do you use your printers daily at home? Or how frequently do you use it?

I have an X1C. I’m planning on getting another printer but this one is an A2L. Anything to note other than the obvious differences? Will quality be different, better or worse? Thanks.

This is the first of several new Docobots that I have made. As with all my other bots, all files can be downloaded for free from MakerWorld

Finally got this working. Any photo size, any location. Parametrically generated backplate with sliding dovetail joints, keyholes, and a screw-in peg.

Printed on an H2C. This one was 4-color multi body. Took about..... 5 hours I want to say?

This was a fun one to figure out!

I use Linux, and the sculpting options over here are thin. Blender is there and it's genuinely excellent, but its sculpt mode is a mesh sculptor built for rendering, and the tools people usually recommend for print-focused sculpting are Windows or Mac only, or paid, or both. So a few months ago I started building the thing I wanted, and it's now at a point where it's worth other people trying.

It's free and open source (AGPL), there's no account, no subscription and nothing to buy, and although I build it on Linux it runs on Windows and macOS too.

The reason it works the way it does: most sculpting tools work on a surface, a shell of triangles with nothing behind it. Pull too hard and it tears. That costs you nothing in a render, because nobody sees the back of the model, but it costs you the print, because a slicer wants one closed solid.

BrokkrSculpt works on solid material instead. In practice that means you can't rip a hole in it however hard you pull, a cut through it closes itself and leaves a real face, and a scan that arrives with holes in it usually stops being broken on the way in. Exports get checked for watertightness before the file is written, and it refuses to write one that wouldn't print.

What's there now: seven brushes, symmetry, masking, surface patterns (scales, weave, cracks, hair, noise), a plane cut, graphics tablet support with pressure and tilt, STL/OBJ/3MF in and out, and one click into OrcaSlicer.

Being straight about the state of it, because I'd rather you heard it from me:

- It's a beta and nothing is signed yet, so Windows and macOS will both warn you about the download.

- The three builds aren't equally finished. Linux is where I build and use it every day; Windows and Mac come from the same commit and pass the same tests but have had far less time on real hardware. The README lists exactly what's unproven on each.

- Resolution is uniform, so a big model resists very fine detail until you resample it finer.

- A model that's both very thin and genuinely open (a car body with no windows) can't be made solid, and stays fragile.

Source and downloads: https://github.com/MakerViking/brokkrsculpt

Happy to answer anything about how it works. If you try it and it breaks, that's genuinely the most useful thing you can tell me, there's a bug report button in the lower right part of the viewport.

Any idea how to overcome this?
I’ve printed all the other plates and this is the final
One.