Picture was from a year ago

Spent the weekend replacing a bunch of parts after figuring out my ball joints were shot, and my u-joints.

I replaced:
- Spicer Ball Joints
- Spicer U Joint
- Monroe Magnum Shocks
- Powerstop Coated Brake Kit
- Timken Hubs

I wire wheeled everything I could and gave them a couple coats of enamel, probably wont last being in the midwest.. Ujoints we quite the pain but a ball joint press helped remove them atleast.

However, Ive been chasing this pop sound, coming from around the floor pan. It happens when I drive from a stopped position or as soon as I stop. Unfortunately this job didn’t fix it. Could this be the track bar bolt/bracket? Hopefully not my diff, as I only have 95K miles.

1990 XJ Laredo 4.0 2 door

Been rebuilding this pain in the ass for about two months. Suspension, interior, electrical, the whole works. Finally got it running, and took it to get smogged. It failed pretty bad in both CO and HC at 15 mph and 25 mph. It appears to be running real rich. It idles around 400 and the idle is overall shit. It REALLY seems like a vaccuum leak the way the tach is going up and down but I’ve tried everything ever to find one, with no luck. If I tap the gas real fast it will go up, go all the way down to basically stall, then go back to normal. The car is idling at 210 as it should.

List of everything I’ve done

-smoke tested EVERYTHING (except the exhaust) and found nothing
-new ignition coil
- new plug wires
-checked timing and distributor orientation at tdc
- new plugs (which I actually just did again, they were disgusting after idling the car for probably an hour total)
- new 02 sensor, tested and verified voltages are reading correctly
-returned to 195 thermostat bc I had a 180
New ECT (haven’t tested voltage but resistance ofnew sensor was good
-new coolant sender ( irrelevant, I know)
- fuel pump and sender
- New fuel filter
- new fuel injectors ( I did notice the new ones have 4 holes instead of one large one. Or maybe it was vice versa? The flow rate is the same but this is suspicious to me )
-tested fuel pressure which is perfect
-New MAP and verified readings/operation, also made sure the hose is ok
- reset iacv and saw the pintle moving. ( but when I unplug the connector the car doesn’t seem to care. Weird)
-indexed the TPS TO EXACTLY .85 as OEM spec
-checked the cat number and made sure it was CARB legal. Previous owner said it was done a year and a half ago
-New crank sensor

Where I’m at now:

Feeling defeated. I’m praying there’s a leak in the exhaust manifold before the 02 sensor. This could be an explanation? If not, maybe a new head. While using a horoscope the cylinder was absolutely disgusting and it seems like maybe the exhaust valves are not closing all the way but it was tough to see tbh. In a perfect world, the car is running rich so there’s buildup, which is affecting the valves. Otherwise, I’m at a complete loss, and there’s no more parts in the parts cannon. Any ideas, questions, comments, or laughs are extremely helpful. REDDIT DO YOUR THING!!!!!

I am planning to drive my 2000 xj from Portland, OR to New Haven, CT. Is that an incredibly bad idea?

I’ve been working on it to get it ready. Here’s some of the work I’ve done:

brake pads
shocks (blistein)
water pump
sensor
thermostat / housing
valve cover gasket
ac compressor
coolant flush

This jeep is in very good condition. No rough idles, no rust, and now smooth as butter with the new shocks! On a budget so can’t really afford to do much else at the moment. Let me know what y’all think.

Did this ALH swap in 2019 and have made a lot of changes since. Just did a GTD1756vrk and 2.5” boost piping with 3” exhaust and no muffler. So much whistle 😗

Got the passenger side mirror on today, its too shiny so I figured it was time to get some pine tree pinstriping done on her. Went down to the game pond above my shop.

Hello, can i have some help.

I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee XJ with a 4.0 liter straight six that I would like some help with. The problem is that the car is not passing the inspection due to high HC values. I am usually the one who can fix cars myself, but this problem is beyond my expertise, so I wonder if you can fix this.

It also has an uneven and shaky idle, almost stopping during the first few minutes of starting it, then the idle is smoother.

At the last inspection, the HC value was too high at idle, around 700–800 rpm, but the values ​​were approved at around 2000 rpm.

The following parts have been replaced this year:

Fuel pump

Spark plugs

Ignition cables

Air temperature sensor

TPS sensor

Oxygen sensors both before and after the catalytic converter

About two years ago, the following were also replaced:

Idle air valve / IAC

MAP sensor

CPS / crankshaft sensor

One thing I want to mention is that the fuel injectors have been cleaned with brake cleaner. When I applied power to the injectors to open them during the cleaning, I noticed that one of the injectors became noticeably hotter than the others. The other thing was also the spray pattern during testing showed more like a beam rather than a mist.

Adding to the XJ internet knowledge pool here.

It is possible for temp senders (sensor next to thermostat) to go bad. Your gauge is also an estimate, and always will be. Make sure to keep this is mind when diagnosing any [over]heat issues.

You can get the temp directly off the temp sender by using a IR temp gun. Theyre $20 at harbor freight + a 9v battery. New temp sender cost me $35 at autozone.

Once youve installed a new temp sender, verify the IR gun temp against an OBD2 port temp. If you have a 97 onward, there is one temp sender which supplies the temp to the efan, ecu, and gauge.

For me the IR gun on the brass temp sender reads within +/- 2º of the OBD2 live data. So both these cheap chinese electeonics atleast agree.

In my case, any temp from 200-225 reads within a hair of 210 on the dash. If its getting to the mark people call "220" im probably at 230+ (my XJ doesnt get that hot anymore - check for bad radiator cap and pinhole leaks before you spend 100s on the parts cannon).

Im not seeing people talk about this, but if you want to approach any issue scientifically you need to make sure your baseline readings are correct and calibrated. Start with making sure you know the real coolant temp before you go chasing rabbits.

Ignition coil popped and engulfed the entire front of the truck in flames. Don’t leave your key on when trying to get a renix running!

‘99 XJ sport

If you needed to replace this piece of interior trim, what words would you use to search for it? I have tried multiple combinations but can’t seem to make the interwebs behave.

What is the name of this piece? I hope the pointing helps.

would hear a clunk sometimes on slow turns

found my axle end track bar bushing worn and this, what i think is a cracked frame by the steering box

can i just weld it and put some reinforcing plate?

also how bad would it be to drive like this?

Picked up some 265/70r17 Armstrong at2

Rough country 17 x 9 black D cuts.

Lift is going on this weekend. Should give her a whole new look pretty quickly.

Finally got tired of seeing it just sit in the same place, time to get it ready for the beach next year

Car won’t start - battery or cables ?

2001, Jeep Cherokee

My car read “check gauges” and abs light was on as well and the voltage was really high. I pullled over - car wouldn’t start it would just click click click but headlights came on.

Gas station attendant jump started it and I made it home. When I got home I tried turning it on - same thing happened it just click click click but all accessories worked and everything else

I called AAA they tested it and determined it’s a bad battery even though it reads 12.7 volts when idle. There was some other reading they said that indicates it’s a bad battery even though the battery is only two years old. I can get a new battery for free under warranty

But also my cables are corroded, so which one is it ?