An air restriction was identified and subsequently resolved.

I picked up this 05 last year. I’ve done quite a bit of work to her and she drives like a Gem this pic is from the Sonora pass in California. That was a trip in with the boat.

The previous owner installed a 5” straight pipe but welded the factory tailpipe to it. I’m looking for just the very back part of the exhaust. My trucks a crew cab long bed if that matters. Thanks!

Went to start the truck and no dash lights, radio etc and not turning over. Took out the key and noticed some of the gauges jumping a little. Disconnected both batteries for a while then reconnected and same problem?

Any suggestions?

2003, 2500ST, 2WD 5 speed manual

What’s the best all mechanical 0-30psi fuel pressure gauge for a 24v? All of autometer’s and isspro’s 0-30 stuff is now electrical (stepper motor). I want ALL mechanical with no electronics whatsoever

Intermittent throttle problem, usually during snow, heavy rain, or high moisture.

When it happens, the check engine light comes on, throttle response is delayed and RPMs rise/fall slowly instead of following the pedal normally. The transmission also stops shifting automatically, so I have to shift manually.

Cruise control works perfectly and the truck accelerates normally with cruise control.

I’ve already replaced the accelerator pedal, had the ECM programming/tune adjusted, and had ABS repairs done. The problem still comes back.

Has anyone seen this before? Could it be a wiring, connector, ground, or module issue related to moisture?

Thank you in advance

Following up on my "2007.5 6.7/G56 project" (https://www.reddit.com/r/Cummins/s/aK7ffuxyP7), I'm starting to think about the interior.

I have access to a 2010 leather-trim automatic truck and mine is a 2007.5 2500 6.7/G56. My interior is pretty disgusting, so I'd like to upgrade it while keeping the truck looking like something Dodge could have actually built — not a 3rd/4th-gen Frankenstein.

I'm mainly interested in swapping door panels, carpet maybe the leather seats (front and back) and other trim if they'll fit reasonably well (headliner?).

The dash is where I'm not sure I should even go.

The 2010 dash looks much better to me, especially the center stack, but it's obviously very different. Different cluster, different layout, and presumably a whole lot of wiring/HVAC/electronics that I don't really want to get into. Probably Apillars must be swapped too?

The main reason I'd even consider changing the dash is the radio. My original unit doesn't work, and buying another old factory radio just to replace it seems pointless.

All I really want is Bluetooth from my phone and something that looks clean and reasonably OEM. I don't need a huge screen or a bunch of features.

So maybe the smarter answer is to keep the complete 3rd-gen dash and just modernize the radio/center area somehow.

What from the 2010 is actually worth swapping — seats, door panels, carpet, trim? Anything that won't work because it's an automatic and mine is a G56?

And for the dash: would you keep the 3rd-gen dash and put a clean, OEM-looking Bluetooth setup in it, or is a 4th-gen dash conversion actually worth doing? Pics of good-looking 3rd-gen setups would be appreciated.

2019 Ram 3500
6.7 Cummins Deleted, Single Stage Tow Tune
Banks Monster Ram
BD Screamer Turbo

Noticed this ticking noise that resonates through the wheel wells and front grill.

Removed belt, noise still present.

Cant really hear it when driving but is loud at idle.

Truck pulls strong no codes.

I have been told about a typewriter tick that is causes by faulty / failing lifters. Is this it?

Does increase frequency at high idle. One interesting thing to note is when I engage AC the tick sometimes goes away for 15-20 seconds but returns shortly after.

Videos:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HxPiMfwF3qfLas689oSZ9BiJ55jU9VbK/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d4RFSbgI0qE54j6OnMtx91fIRRHKK6IX/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Pg_hVf85NiHzkUVPJQlRisS-kZgUOh8S/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MUMJLvH_iWz5B5I_u8oiAC6g9Pi2M-so/view?usp=drivesdk

About two weeks ago I posted here about possibly "swapping my 2007.5 6.7/G56 for a rust-free 2005 5.9/G56" (https://www.reddit.com/r/Cummins/s/aK7ffuxyP7).

I had some pretty serious buyer's remorse and was beating myself up for not waiting longer for a 5.9, especially every time I found something else that needed fixing.

Well... I think I finally flipped.

I've spent the last couple weeks going through the truck, and I'm actually starting to appreciate how stupidly easy some of this thing is to work on. Plenty of room, simple construction, and — most importantly — no horrible new discoveries every time I take something apart. Fix one thing, move on to the next.

Finally passed inspection too. After everything I've been through, all they found was battery hold-downs, 3rd brake light and tires. That's it.

Found a set of wheels with almost-new tires that I think look great on it, and weirdly enough, picking them up was what finally sold me on the truck.

Loaded the wheels/tires in the bed and drove home and the thing drove so much better with some weight back there. Steering is tight now, tracks straight effortlessly, and that's with me basically eyeballing the alignment after doing the steering work.

Two hours of driving — checked again, zero blowby.

And holy shit does this thing have power. I'm legitimately afraid to floor it. You barely touch the pedal and it GOES.

The 5.9 guy wasn't helping my buyer's remorse either. He kept commenting that my G56 sounded different from his, shifted differently from his identical G56, my interior was worse than his, etc. Had me wondering if I'd bought some kind of disaster.

Then he disappeared and sold his instead of trading with me. 😂

Probably did me a favor.

At this point the only real mechanical job left is the A/C compressor. Clutch stays engaged but it isn't building pressure. Replace that, install the fan shroud properly, then reinstall the electronic fan clutch with that funky pigtail so I can immediately trap it in the fan blades again.

After that: gauges and figuring out the tune.

I think it's overfueled down low. I get a dark haze when accelerating at low RPM and I'd like some way to actually see/control what tune is on it and maybe dial the fueling back for normal non-towing driving. Still figuring out what setup I need for that.

Then maybe the interior.

The interior is fucking disgusting.

And somehow it's still better than most of the other trucks I looked at. 😂

So... $1,350 in parts, rust-free, strong engine, zero blowby, tight steering, passed inspection, almost-new tires, and enough power that I don't particularly want to find out what happens at full throttle.

It does look like... a truck, not sure why I expected any different.

I guess I didn't fuck up nearly as badly as I thought I did.

would this be the right page to ask if they installed my bed properly? its going back so they can fix the bad welds. otherwise i will be taking it off and doing it myself of they cant get it right the 2nd time around. just seems oddly high compared to the others i have been around. thanks guys

So I have a leak coming from the poppet/detent bolt on my transfer case. Truck is 2006 with 180k on it.

I believe it just needs a new o ring. Can I just back it out and replace it or will it mess with the transfer case to remove?
Thanks.

Just picked up another 2g. Wanting to level it to fit 35s, but wanting to piece together a levelling kit. And looking for opinions or if anyone else has done the same. I’m wanting to get 3” lift coils from a 03-12 gas 2500. And run either the longer control arms or long arm from a 5” lift to get the axle forward and try and get some ride quality back. Truck is just a work horse/tow pig

Any Reliable Transmission shops around Central Texas?
Looking to have a stage 2 installed

My turn for an obligatory what’s it worth post.
2004 2500, HO, 188k miles, 48re(built at 145k miles), 4x4, clean title Arizona truck, truck is super clean and has zero rust (ai used to blur license plate)

Picked up an early G56 for $1,000 to swap into my 04.5 Ram 3500.
Planning to crack the case open before it goes in. The input shaft has some pilot bearing wear, so I’m replacing that for sure and probably going through the bearings/seals while I’m already in there.
Pretty excited to finally ditch the 48RE. I did the GM solenoid upgrade and ATS deep pan hoping to keep it happy, but after two camping trips this summer it decided 1st gear was optional 😂
Anyone who’s been inside an early G56, anything else you’d replace or upgrade while it’s apart?

Recently, my 2004.5 ram 2500 5.9 cummins has absolutely no power to anything when the truck is turned off and there is no key in the ignition. No radio, dome lights, door locks, not even the horn works. When the truck is turned on and running, the dome lights, horn, and door locks will work, but the radio wont work or even turn on, as if it has no power to it at all.

Im aware of fuse 51 being the iod fuse and being blown might cause this issue, but all of the fuses are fine and none of them are blown. I looked at the wiring harnesses underneath the fuse box, and there is no obvious stripped, corroded, or sliced wires. I replaced the fuse box, as well as the TIPM sensor, 2 years ago. So one would think they wouldnt be causing this problem.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, because I dont know where to go from here.

Driver side I was in the mountains and got death wobble all of a sudden and have loose ass steering now any help please

Edit: seems like I was worried for nothing. Thanks to all that responded.

I wasn’t going to buy a new truck until the middle off next year, but the deals are so good I’m thinking about pulling the trigger now. ‘26 2500 Limited Longhorn Cummins.

The reason I was gonna wait is because I am going to Asia for the 3 months of winter and I’m not sure what the implications are for parking the truck for 3 months.

It will be parked in a garage, but not climate controlled. I am in N Alabama, so, generally the garage never dips below 40 degrees or so. And mostly will be above the 50s.

I have a battery tender but I’m not really sure what other precautions I should take. Fuel stabilizer? What else?

Is this easily doable or should I hope for good deals next year and just hold off buying until I am back?

Once back, I probably won’t have to leave it sitting for that long again.

Hello looking for a little information. Recently replaced a head and transfered the whole valve train. How do I know where to start with setting valve lash when everything is loose. Can't find much on when nothing is set and starting from scratch. Thank you