Hello, I have this storage room under the stairs that I want to turn into a little art room. However the stairs have exposed nails and just overall dont look good for a room I want to use regularly 😅

Looking for suggestions of how to cover up the ugly stairs without making major changes cause I wouldn't know what to do and dont have a big budget...

This skirt (underside shown)is supposed to go on after everything else, including the glass, is installed. It looks like it should separate then click back together around the spigot. But it doesn’t want to separate and I don’t want to force/damage it. Any hints or tricks?

It’s an original metal street sign from my childhood. It is not flat because it used to be connected to another sign and then was removed for me. I’m wondering if I can drill thru it without damaging or if I should attempt a hot glue situation with maybe hanging wire?

Essentially, the title. I wanna fit a wider CRT in place of the current one, and to do that I'd have to remove this piece. The wider CRT has a small flat section on this roof, in which I could place a few bookshelves to hold up the rest of the shelves. On top I have 2 Lego builds, which are the primary forces. So in essence, my question is, would a CRT with a small flat roof section be able to hold up the rest of this shelf, or can it hold itself up by itself entirely. Thank you.

First time home owner- Had terrible ice dams above our little 3x4 foot mudroom, opened the walls and found this. My main question is, if I don’t really care how this room looks- can I just remove all of the drywall and insulation, basically gut the room and then put pine boards over it? Like how big of a job am I looking at here and is there anything I should know before demoing it, any advice is appreciated thanks!

Got Okna 600 windows installed to replace the original windows in my townhouse. Apparently, over time the house settled a bit and the walls around the windows aren't straight anymore. Therefore, once you level the windows properly, they are not parallel to the window sill. The installer nailed wooden quarter rounder trim around the window frame to hide the gaps between the wall and it only accentuates the tilt. Is there any way to make it look nicer?

Hello! My closet door won’t open because the opened drawer is obstructing it

Help! Im an idiot and installed the Ikea Pegboard wrong. I placed it in my office (no drilling) so i used the 3M heavy duty double sided tape and I taped the board flat on my office divider. Now, my accessories cant fit cause it has no space behind it.

All tips and tricks are appreciated. Please help this idiot.

Thanks!

I recently moved in my new house and I am not sure how to go about concealing this part of the floor? I put in my new floor, but am not sure how to go about this? I would like it to blend in well, not really concerned about cost.

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Does anyone know how to get this panel down? Is it as simple as removing the 4 screws? Trying to look at the ceiling underneath to determine how easy it would be to put a new fixture up or just leave as is. Thanks in advance for any help!

We are fine with leaving the top and the bottom but we want to make this into a craft area. It’d be easier if the beams in the middle were in the way but we dont know if it’s load bearing or not. At the very least the second one in on the left would be a huge help if it was gone. It’s not a full stud, there’s like a cutout on it and it’s half the width of the other guys.

Any thoughts?

I moved into a new house and the curtain glide rail is missing this piece from the middle so the curtain sags and I can’t for the life of me find what it is to buy a replacement, does anyone know?

Same as title. I’m bald so I can’t stick into my hair like this. I’ve found the pick combs I want to use, I just need to find something circular and sturdy to use as a base. Checked around and most of the crown seem to made with a hair head band. That’s a last resort because I don’t want the crown to be open in the back

Any ideas?

Doing a mid-sized driveway replacement and needs a decent walk-behind concrete saw plus maybe a handheld cut-off saw for the tighter sections. Local hardware stores here don't carry anything built for serious flatwork and I'm not paying Grainger prices if there's a better option. Looking for an online retailer that actually specializes in concrete cutting tools, not just a general tool dump with two blades and a prayer. Anyone point me toward a good place to buy concrete cutting equipment online?

I got this sweatshirt from second hand few years ago, but I no longer like the text on it. I want to make it into something new but the text will get in the way, how can I get rid of it?

Context: the fabric is 56% cotton, 44% Polyester.

Trying to run wires behind my tv. Kit provided a hole saw. When i went to drill into studless area under tv mount, hit resistance immediately after getting through drywall. Dont want to keep drilling holes but seems like theres an entire wall behind my drywall. Any solutions for this issue? Just keep trying to drill through?

Hello, so I’m trying to build a gaming table I have all the wood and it’s all sized right and the table top came together….well enough.

But the legs wobble like crazy, I don’t work in wood(I’m a blacksmith) I thought 2 screws in each leg would be enough to hold it but I need to stabilize this thing somehow.

I have a support running the short length between the legs and it helps a bit.

I intend to screw the table top into the tops of the legs and I feel like that will help with the wobble.

I could drill some holes and run a bolt with some washer through them?

Hi all.

I’m trying to hang up a mirror. It’s 30x60 and approximately 35 pounds. (Call it 40 to be safe)

I’m using (2) #6 walldriller plus cobra 071PS one for each side of the mounting rings on the mirror.

My question is, can I back out the actual screw itself (not the anchor) for the screw heads to actually rest on the mounting rings? The instructions say to fully tighten the screw all the way and do an extra 3-4 turns to activate the “wings” or “legs”. Where I want the mirror to go won’t line up with either stud placement.

What do I do? Can I use these walldriller anchors on straight drywall and back out the physical screw? Box says it’s rated for 105 pounds 1/2 inch drywall (which tbh I don’t know if I have but it’s a newer rental townhouse)

I mounted a pull-up bar to the wall a while back and the screws have gradually worked loose. It feels like they're not biting properly anymore.

About the wall: It's a Danish building from 1890, so it's not drywall over studs - the walls are solid brick with plaster on top, no cavity. Nothing empty above the door.

Photos attached . In the square, this is the side that is getting loose whenever I apply pressure on it. It is definitely free. It doesn't help if I try to tighten the screw again. On the other side though, it is still firm and stable.

Is there anything I can try to do to fix it?