I've got a crf250r I'm trying to access the top end of the engine which i think is the reason the engine is full seized up though the steps in the manual say that i should "Make sure the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke" when removing the cam shaft. though i can't do this cause my primary drive gear is locked up. So my question is do i just avoid this step?

Noise from engine I believe that has seemingly gotten worse, looking for some help figuring out what it is

I have a DT200WR fitted with a CDI and YPVS module from a DT200R.

The problem: at low-to-mid RPM the YPVS works fine, opening normally as I rev up. But after a certain RPM, right as it reaches maximum opening, it suddenly closes completely.

What I've already tested and ruled out:

• The module and servo themselves — I bench-tested by feeding the module a simulated RPM signal via Arduino, and it opened perfectly up to 9000 RPM with zero issues;
• Swapped the CDI for another unit — the exact same fault persists;
• Servo gear ratio — swapped it out, behavior unchanged.

One important observation: measuring the RPM signal wire going to the module, I noticed the AC voltage drops by about half at high RPM — right around the point where the YPVS starts closing and oscillating. It starts at 300VAC and ends up at 180VAC.

Since the fault only happens with the real signal from the bike (not the simulated one), I'm out of ideas as to what could be causing it. Has anyone seen something like this before?

I know the cylinder and cam cap are line board at factory at the same time so I can’t buy replacement. Can I clean this up lightly with a Dremel and reuse it? I’m trying to put a top end in my bike. This is the only thing stopping me, please help.

2023 Husqvarna fc250 with 14hrs experiencing high rpm’s while off throttle before returning to idle. After the bike warms up and you let off the throttle while riding and holding in clutch, bike stays in high rpm’s for a good 5 seconds before returning to idle. Have changed the fuel, checked spark plug and filters, messed with idle screw, adjusted throttle and cables, plugged and unplugged all sensors. Husqvarna dealership had for a week and changed fuel pump which didn’t fix it, then told me they couldn’t figure issue out and to try swapping ecu’s with a similar bike.
Edit: Bike would no longer idle unless providing throttle, and now will not start. Any ideas for a fix?

Ran it low on fuel. Filled it with fresh fuel. Now it’s doing this. When you start it it runs, but when you hit the gas, it dies. Was flashing “Fi” code earlier too.

Whenever you first start on the bike either from low rpms or on the holeshot it tends to sputter/hesitate but is completely fine when you get going. It also revs out completely fine in neutral, I only have the issue when the bike is moving. I checked the tps, replaced injector, replaced fuel pump, replaced spark plug, checked compression, checked top end, replaced throttle body, and replaced fuel filters but can’t seem to get it. Any ideas

For some reason, it used to run perfectly fine and would rev and drive without any issues. Then, one day I tried starting it, and it just stayed at a super low RPM so low that it wouldn't even drive. It wasn’t a choke issue, and even when I twisted the throttle, the RPMs stayed too low to move. I even replaced the carburetor with a new one, but the problem is still happening. Can someone please help me? The bike is a 2008 Honda CRF100F /100R dirt bike.

I have a crf150f 2005 with a pro circuit exhaust was riding for about an hour and it was running so good i just put in new jets and took the top piece of the air box off and the needle clip in the fourth position but back to the problem I noticed after giving throttle it would be delayed and then suddenly pushes you forward hard but it wasn’t a big problem and then I pulled over to try to see if it a tunning problem but no luck and I tried to ride back home and it wouldn’t be able to past past 2nd with a bit of throttle without shitting on me like in the video I thought it might have been the clip or throttle but I took the slide off and the top of the carb was kinda Smokey or misty?

I had to get the bike towed back home any idea what could have caused my problem I’m seriously bummed out but I have no clue and yeah I’m giving it throttle in the video it’s not like I’m stopping it or using the clutch

I have a 2002 yz250f I just rebuilt the whole top end and I took the side cover while rebuilding it and when I put it back on and I heard 2 clunks that didnt sound good so I took it off and saw that my water pump gear broke in half so I put a new water pump on and put the cover back on and now it won't kick over at all. Every gear in that side cover spins over just fine on its own but as soon as I put the idle gear in to connect the kickstarter with the clutch basket it all seizes up. I got a new idler gear and washer and it still didnt fix it. I also inspected the shaft it goes on and that is also perfectly fine. The kickstarter also worked perfectly fine before this.

Hi guys, i ride a tenere 700 and now bought a used husqvarna te450.
It does not have a key? So that confuses me a bit it is just startable. It has some difficulties starting due to being stationary for a while. I will look in to that.
It has electric start so how does that work with no ignition key?
Can you help me identifieing what these are on the photo?

1 choke?
2?
3? Screw to adjust stationary rpms?

Also i know that the little black lever is for compressiom, but i can kickstart it without it and it doesnt seem to make a difference engaging that lever?

Sorry for the stupid noob questions. Im an absolute beginner

Thanks alot

I picked this 2002 KLX 110 off marketplace a while ago and just now got around to working on it, one of the main concerns I had was for some reason the previous owner(s) seem to have done some methed up conversion on the rear brakes. It seems they tried to install a disc braking system but there is currently nothing hooked up to it, so it is not functional. I just need the most efficient and cost effective way to get this rear brake back to working so I can sell this thing. I've tried looking for replacement rim/wheels that include the stock drum brakes, but they are charging like $300-$500, and I'm just needing something a little cheaper to be honest. I'm not sure if I can just slap a caliper on the disc and call it a day (idek how to do that) but any ideas are appreciated.

Looking for an ongoing TT-R230 engine part-out. Or just Need a used flywheel rotor (Part #1C6-H1450-00-00). I’ve looked online for the past week everywhere i can and there’s none my starter clutch ate into the back of my flywheel rotor and i don’t want to buy a new one, if anyone has any info or one to sell please feel free to reply!

This button barely moves. Pull the clutch lever in and bike still wants to move. Am I cooked? Its a cheap Chinese 110 motor