Anyone have a solution for a downpipe for a downpipe for a 2004 duramax lb7 with 66mm silverbullet turbo. These originally came in a kit (as listed) but are no longer availble, yes I have tried calling advanced diesel and industrial injectors with no luck. Most sites will say they have the kit in stock and they really do not. I am just looking for the downpipe or an adapter and downpipe that will work. thank you in advance https://advancediesel.net/product/silverbullet-turbo-kit-66mm/?srsltid=AfmBOopZC0CFjiPpCekC7eVTCJj11Ip3oETQdLu5HB2csfJnd6eQx_Uc

Just bought a 2002 Chevrolet 2500hd with 200k miles. A ton of upgrades done to it including a stage 1 ATS Allison with a 5 star TC. Transmission is fresh only about 500 miles ish. Anyone ever have issues with the TC lockup being pretty hard?

I have a 2020 Duramax dually, just this weekend the truck was not starting early in the mornings 4-5 am when I go to work, it does crank just won’t turn on, when I come back from work at around 6-7 pm the truck turns on just fine, I live in the desert of New Mexico so I know Cold weather isn’t the issue anybody have any pointers, ideas of what could be the issue

Anyone else have this issue and able to fix it? Looking online it seems its pretty common, just looking for a solution.

Thanks in advance!

New here, howdy. Bought this with 245k and tuned since 2016 from the original owner. verified service history every 3-4 mo by same shop while under 1st owner, which included new fuel filter every 6 mo. Just rolled over 290k and going strong. Still factory CP4 and injectors flowing properly with banks intake and cooler pipe upgrades, anarchy diesel eco tune. Trucool 40k/fleece trans lines, Bilstein b8 all around with mevotech TSSX front end parts... amsoil everything...been an experience building her up and now I'm stuck with her til she rusts out or blows up since the diesel market prices tanked here.

Looking to do a cp3 conversion with lift pump, spelab EGR delete/pcv reroute and can, and upper coolant pipe/aluminum reservoir. also dropping the gov bomb in favor of a Grizzly locker since she grenaded spider gears at 265k on right rear. luckily the r&p survived. eventually she gets a 63mm 10 blade vgt (cheetah or sdr) upgrade. and finally get my remote start installed that's been floating around inside the Tuffy safe...

Pushing for 500k miles or more on this old gal and boost up to 18-20mpg from the current 14-17 I get now. She's going to see full time TC duty. also working on a rearward fold flat center console bracket design so I can use it as a rear seat table/sleeping platform for Amish hotshot trucking runs

I’ve just picked up a 2003 4WD Chevy Crew Cab Dually. 94 K miles. Other than regular maintenance and the injectors change out at 88K it is stock. I’m relocating from California to Florida. It will be registered there. I’m looking for some guidance from you all in doing any practical upgrades in order to make this the best that it can be for some my future use. Please and thank you!

Need a front wheel bearing. Prices are all over the place. $200+ for a single bearing vs $80 and anywhere between. All claiming to be the Timken sp580310. Is there a way to tell between a knock off and a legit Timken bearing? Seems every place uses the same stock photos for the most part. Even the Rock Auto photos of the Timken bearing don't show any actual branding or Timken markings on them. I'd really rather not do the job again in 6 months when a knockoff bearing fails. But I don't want to waste $250 assuming the high priced one isn't a knockoff either.

So personally, I enjoy how a 2in level looks more than a 4 inch lift.

However, I just cranked my keys to move the front up about an inch, I want to go a LITTLE bit more with a 1in in the rear as well to keep a slight rake for when I am towing. I normally only tow my racecar and trailer which ends up being maybe 6k combined.

Currently, I am dealing with the shittiest ride quality ever. Any bump is just instantly bouncing up in the seats, I dont remember when the last time the shocks were changed because I got the truck with 220k miles and its got 270k on it now. Does a proper leveling kit with new control arms and bilstein shocks fix this or is a lift truly the only way to fix the ride quality issue? I know cranking the keys just pre loads the suspension, but I would imagine that changing shocks might also fix it as well?

Thanks for the info. Currently weighing a BDS 4in lift (turned down) vs a Kryptonite level.

I have an LML Duramax with about 145k miles. The truck has ARP head studs, a deleted tow tune, full EGR delete, 3" downpipe, up-pipes, and 5" exhaust. I don't know the complete history of the engine before I owned it.

Recently someone else was driving the truck pretty hard. I wasn't there, so I don't know exactly what happened, but I suspect it may have been over-revved and possibly experienced some valve float.

Afterward, I noticed a new rhythmic "chuff" at idle that follows engine RPM. It sounds like it's coming from the intake valley, specifically right around the rear passenger-side cylinder (#7). You can also hear a final puff/chuff when shutting the engine off.

Other than the noise, the truck actually runs fine. It idles smooth, still seems to make good power, and has no noticeable blow-by.

I did a compression test and all 8 cylinders were roughly 325–375 psi. I originally had #7/#8 mixed up when recording the cylinder locations, so I don't want to claim an exact compression number for #7 until I verify my notes, but there wasn't a dead or drastically low cylinder.

I've also ruled out the obvious external exhaust stuff. The exhaust manifold and up-pipe are good, and I installed new injector copper washers.

I pulled the passenger-side upper and lower valve covers expecting to find something obvious from an over-rev — broken valve spring, damaged rocker/bridge, bent pushrod, etc.

Everything under the valve cover looks great. I don't see any broken springs, damaged rockers, broken bridges, or anything obviously out of place. I pulled all the pushrods from that bank and checked them carefully, and every pushrod is straight as an arrow.

Before disturbing the adjustments, I measured the cold valve lash on the passenger bank and got:

I-7: .002–.0025"

E-7: .007"

I-5: .0035"

E-5: .003"

I-3: .0015–.002"

E-3: .003"

I-1: .0085"

E-1: .004"

From everything I'm finding, the factory specification should be .012" cold on both intake and exhaust.

So basically the entire passenger bank is tight, and some of them are extremely tight. The one that really caught my attention is #7 intake at only .002–.0025", since #7 is exactly where the intake chuff seems to be coming from.

I also did a basic cylinder leak check while everything was apart.

With the rockers removed, injectors installed, and lower valve cover in place, I applied shop air to each cylinder through the glow-plug hole. I couldn't hear any noticeable air leaking past the intake valves, exhaust valves, or elsewhere on any of the cylinders I checked.

That makes me think the valves themselves are seating reasonably well when the valvetrain isn't loading them.

So my current thought is: could the extremely tight valve lash, especially the .002–.0025" #7 intake, be holding the intake valve slightly off the seat while the engine is running/hot and causing a compression pulse back into the intake?

It would seem to fit the rhythmic chuff coming directly from the intake valley above #7, while also explaining why the truck can still have decent compression, idle smoothly, and otherwise run well.

I'm also curious why the entire passenger bank would be this tight. Is it possible someone previously adjusted the valves incorrectly or intentionally ran them this tight? Or should I be concerned about valve/seat recession or something else that caused the lash to tighten up over time?

At this point everything I've physically inspected looks excellent other than the valve lash. Pushrods are straight, springs/rockers/bridges look good, and the valves don't appear to leak with the rockers removed.

My plan is to set the lash correctly, put it back together, and see whether the chuff disappears before I even consider pulling a head.

Has anyone run into an LML making a rhythmic intake chuff from valve lash being this tight? Anything else you'd check while I already have the passenger side apart?

Looking at a 2018 2500 LTZ with the dirty max from a dealer. Price is $48k, one owner 57,000 miles. Good deal or nah? Clean title

Picked up a lmm as a project and the previous owner replaced the oem crossmember(very shittily with scrap metal) and it’s causing a bunch of driveline issues as you could assume, does anyone know where or how to source a new or used crossmember for the carrier bearing to mount to? i’ve done a little digging and can’t seem to find anything, any help is very much appreciated!!

Not every time , just occasionally

Got this truck from a buddy for 5k with 160k miles, good deal?

So i just got a afm deleted engine from fraser engines. Im currently have a misfire on cylinder 7 when I accelerate it really laggy or jerky. Cruise control going up a hill does the same thing and on cruise it feels like im going on rumble strips. I tried to activate the afm switch to off on the tuner but it stays to on. Im thinking I need a custom tune? Any tuners here to help? Any advice on where to get custom tunes? I know diablo Lew but I want a reputable one. Suggestions appreciated. I have a 2015 chevy silverado 6.2l gas.

Im planning on dropping the pan to change filters and fluid and am also installing a transgo jr shift kit, 2006 lbz duramax allison 1000, Im also wondering if I should go ahead and get new gaskets, Ive never been inside this transmission as the truck only has 39k miles, Let me know what you guys think.

I got this truck 2 days ago, I noticed in the test drive some clunking when going over bumps, didn’t really think much of it, and since I bought it I’ve also noticed the transmission will clunk sometimes when I hit the throttle mainly when turning, I tried turning the keys down and airing down my tires, thinking that would help with the clunking but it hasn’t, the ball joints seem to be in good shape and I don’t see much wear on the control arm bushings either, I lifted it in the air and shook both from tires and there’s no play, does anyone have any ideas or have experienced something similar, as for the transmission I checked the fluid and it looks brand new and it’s filled to the correct level, just looking for some insight on these things, any response is appreciated. The truck is tuned and deleted(it still has the egr intact and a stock exhaust) it has sotf, I’ve just been driving around in tune 5, apparently the trans has also been tuned going off of what the listing said but they also said it was just a single file tune so I’m not sure if I can go off the listing, the truck has 167k on it.

Wicked deal on it. Has 180k miles and good maintenance records, all stock still not deleted. Wondering if these 2020 Denali 2500’s hold up to time? Wanting to just l of some good highway miles on it commuting for work and hauling in the bed, love the HD trucks and love the diesels for the highways.

Too high of mileage to start pouring on miles? Doesn’t have any major overhaul work done to it yet. Would want to get deleted in near future.

Good buy?

I need to de-pin my DSP5 switch from the ECM connector, however I haven’t found any reliable instructions on how to depin. So far I’ve attempted to remove the pin after pulling out the purple locking pin that keeps all the wires locked in the connector, but it won’t budge and I didn’t want to risk breaking it off. I bought a set of depinning tools, but not sure which one to use. Are there instructions or videos anywhere that show how to do this?

Mechanic is charging me $3700 dollars to lift up the cab and remove the engine off the trans to fix two oil leaks. Not sure if that’s expensive or right on point but yeah truck is loosing good amount of oil no puddles or anything but enough to drop level on the dipstick every 100 miles or so. What should I do. I don’t have the money to fix it so what do you guys think ? Will accept donations 🤣

94, 000 miles. Truck has been in the dealer shop for over 30 days and is waiting for parts again. Not sure what is wrong because dealer is very poor communication. Stalled on highway. Towed to dealer. Some emissions pump replaced first, then nox sensor, then intake air leak, then injectors then I don't know what...

My question, has anyone else experienced this and how reliable is the truck after this type of work on it?

I am also asking for a buyback. Has anyone gotten this with this number of miles on it.

Any info at all is appreciated.

Thanks