I am happy to report that adding the out of the box Simagic Haptics to the Podium Pedals was very easy and straight forward. The challenge of unscrewing some of the pedal components did present some issues along the way, but other than that it was a very easy process.

I haven't had too much run time yet, but the haptics along with the simhub are great so far. I think having a more obvious feel of ABS is really going to help me. When you order your haptics, be sure to get the actual haptics, the control box, the power supply and the data to USB connection. My only complaint right now is how bright the green led is on the control box.

I just need some black and gold Fanatec haptics to match the pedals.

(The shinier part is how much the QR2 lite has shifted.)

I recently bought the QR2 Lite base side about two weeks ago and within that time the wheel has disconnected four times. Each time I have to loosen the piece, push it back and tighten the bolts again. I’ve tried tightening them a bit more but not too much to avoid breaking it. The instructions show a maximum of 8Nm on the bolts and I only have an Allen key. Am I missing something?

I know some of you might suggest I buy the metal one, but I’m curious if there are any other solutions besides replacing the part.

If anyone has any interesting advice or recommendations, please let me know.

This happened yesterday and ripped my thumb back. It's also shut down a few times during a race.

I've seen others have this problem since the latest update.

Fanatec said they need to replace the wheel base, but isn't it a software issue?

Thoughts from those with same issue please.

Have you guys had any luck with the plate screws on the podium pedals? really want to love these things but the face plates are too tall and every screw but 1 stripped. Cant even get them out with a screw extractor kit

First off, thank you Fanatec for bringing FullForce to the DD Pro. Sure, it has bugs like disconnections and whatnot but I am confident that you are on top of it.

I just wanted to know if FullForce has completely replaced FFB scaling because I can’t see FFB scaling anymore on my DD Pro options.

Thanks again guys.

Yesterday when racing I experienced a wheel snap when turning the corner. Although there were no issues going through the corner the wheel just snapped uncontrollably making my wheel come off my desk. I know there are some issues with the new update and was wondering if this pertains to that. Also the snap happened on GT7.

Hi,

I did not update my base in a long time due to issues like base disconnection, brick and so on…

But i also see that people who updated realy likes the full force feature.

Is it safe to update now ? I’m on PC

Thanks

After being replaced by warranty, this is my second DD Pro, and after a year or so of usage, the same problem has showed up, it started with disconnecting the wheel to the base, so my paddle shift would work or any other part of the wheel, yet it kept steering, after a few days of this, now i am stuck to what i believe it is “Bootlander Mode”
Can someone explain why this happens, who to fix, or if needs a replacement or if i should try to proceed with a refund
Thanks

Been dealing with intermittent FFB cutouts and full shutoffs since the new update with FullForce. Just started a GT7 Sport race, turned right (in last place) and the wheel completely took over and violently spun to the left and continued to spin back and forth after pausing the game.

Anyone else almost lose their thumbs with this??

Got my CSL Cockpit almost done. What do you guys think? What needs to be changed?

Está ya activo el fullforce para Project motor Racing?

The screen will randomly go back to the Fanatec Logo and I can’t use any of the buttons or shift. The wheel is still registering in the app, I can turn and use pedals but no buttons. This happens every 10 seconds or so. Sometimes when I push hard on the wheel it fixes it. I have already made sure the shaft is pushed in all the way.

Trying to get my older CSW 2.5 wheel base working with the WRC rim. I can get everything recognized and updated but the rim. It just gets stuck in an update loop where it shows the green bar going to 100% but doesn't update and loops the process.

I tried a couple diff fanatec app/driver versions. Is there a specific one I should use with this setup? Should I stick to the older legacy fanatec control panel instead of current one?

I also have a csl dd and get the same results with another PC and same firmware/control panel use.

Appreciate any help to get the rim working with the csw 2.5 base.

Hi guys,

I updated the firmware and fiddled with the settings, but after that my brake input has completely disappeared. What could be the reason? Accelerate and clutch are working only brake seems to the problem. Any help for a novice like me.

Hi all … anyone who has the GT cockpit and is need of vibration isolation then I’ve found this as a fair priced solution.
Each spring isolator is rated to 50kg
This easily holds the front off the floor and is just on the limit with me in seat (90kg)
There are other options on the website to get stronger springs and I might go for 70kg on the rear.

The bolts are M12 so fit directly into the Fanatec frame.

The only thing I did was to turn the bolt round (by hand) and have the longer part go into the frame.

The company ships UK next day !

Each spring setup cost £20:30

Free postage.

Spring Isolation

Anyone fitted a seatbelt tensioner unit to a Fanatec Clubsport GT cockpit?
Advice appreciated and pics if possible.

Anyone from Fanatec - can this be done ?
Any recommendations??

So, i already have 2 bass shakers and love it, but i sometimes get a little over the full body vibrations.

Recently fanatec and gt7 introduced full force, which gives so much more detail to racing feels.

Question. Has anyone moved away from bass shakers and used pedal haptics instead.

I'm thinking the pedal haptics plus full force through the wheel might be plenty, without saturating me with vibrations.

Thoughts?

I'm trying to help a friend get his new Podium pedals up and running. The pedals have a control box that needs an rj11 (4 pin) for the control box side to rj12 (6P6C) on the wheel base. This cable was missing from his box and the regular rj12 cables that he had with his old pedals won't fit in the control box side. Also, he's on console so the USB option won't work in this case. Fanatec sent a new cable but they ended up sending another rj12 to rj12 cable.

While he's waiting for them to send the right one, we're trying to find an alternative online and we're both having a hard time finding something that will work. Does anyone have a source for a straight wired rj12 to rj11 cable that would work? I thought maybe pulling the outside pins (1 and 6 pins) off the rj12 would work but based on the way the port is shaped on the control box that doesn't look like it would. It looks like it takes a 4P4C (RJ9 or RJ10?) and not a 6P4C. No idea why fanatec didn't just go with the same wire they've been using for pretty much all their pedals.

Hey everyone,

Just wanted to share my latest wheel setup.
Today, I copy what I’ve seen some other Fanatec users doing and put together a Cube Controls GT-Zero rim with the Fanatec Podium Button Module Rally. Honestly, I’m really impressed with how well they work together.

The GT-Zero rim feels great in the hands. The size and shape are really comfortable, I also really like how the rim looks with the Rally Button Module. What surprised me most is just how well everything fits together.

With the Simube S-Hub and Advanced Paddle Module, you can also build this kind of setup without spending so much on the wheel. Playing Gran Turismo 7 with this wheel and SimHub supported dashboard is a game changer!

I’ve been using Fanatec for a while, and one thing I’ve always liked about the ecosystem is the ability to mix and match different components and build something that suits your own preferences.

Anyway, I’m really happy with how this one turned out. It feels quite different from the standard Fanatec wheels I’ve used, and it’s probably one of my favourite setups so far.
Just thought I’d share it with the Fanatec crowd.

Hi guys,

I got a new CSL DD QR2 Ready2Race bundle. It is my first racing wheel and it is kind of fun to use. I play AC, AC Rally and AC Evo right now and played maybe 20 or 30 hours total by now.

What bothers me though is the almost constant creaking noises I have now. Is this really normal after such short usage? Is there anything I can do against it.

I use the 8Nm kit but I am usually just running it at 50% because that seemed enough for me. But still the creaking is almost in every other corner. When it was new it was only very occassionally, but now it almost unusable without using headphones, just so annoying.

What I already tried is reseating the steering wheel and I also twice reseated the QR2 mechanism (that thing with this usb-c plug in the back) - no change though unfortunately.

Is the CSL DD really that bad in terms of quality?

I’ve genuinely always wanted static shifters but never knew Fanatec makes them. WHY????? like genuinely is there anyone that have them and knows why? Would you recommend them? I know they’re not magnetic but I have a 3d printe, I’ll fix it.

I’ve been using my fan text CSLDD on my Xbox for years now. Part of my basement flooded so we had to rip up all my carpet so I haven’t used this in a few weeks. I used it in the garage once after a day and everything worked fine but it has been about a month sitting but now I can’t get it out of this yellow light mode. I can’t get it to turn green and Work.

Guys, sometimes, not always, when I take a corner and accelerate out of it, the steering wheel has a mind of its own and makes my car spin in the direction of the turn and makes me crash. It doesnt happen at every turn, but happens quite often. What settings do I need to change ?