This is only occuring with this one particular black filament, Zero Black Glitter. If I use regular black PLA (or any other color) there is no bleed. I also don't see any bleed between the Glitter Black and the Bone PLA.

I though of increasing the purge volume, but then realized that there were three of these on the plate and it occcured on all of them. If increasing purge volume would fix it, it should have gotten better as it moved along, but it's the same on all three models. I also have two Purge Objects on the plate, to reduce poop, but don't think that should have any effect, they just change where the poop goes.

I am suspecting stringing instead of purge issues.

Ideas?

Bambu P2S, Frostbite Plate, 0.4mm Nozzle,
Ziro Sparkle Glitter Black and Red, Sunlu Bone PLA
220c Nozzle Temp
40c Bed Temp

After the last post (massive thanks for all the help there), I re-recibrated the petg I was using. Mostly stayed the same, max flow increased a bit. Using Orca slicer now btw. (and a different color to save on the white, this one was dried in 70c for 10 hours)

Now I'm trying to fix bridging: here are bridging test prints labeled with their bridging flow & bridge density. For example, 1.1 107 is 1.1 bridge flow and 107% external bridge density.

They were all printed on a P1S & OrcaSlicer with:

• 250c nozzle temp
• 50 mm/s bridge speed and
• 90% bridge part cooling fan speed.
• 0.4mm retraction length.
• (also 0.01° external bridge infol direction, if that matters).

Looking at the edges, higher flow works better. However they all are insanely wavey in a way that makes them really say nothing.

What's the direction here? Lower (/Higher?) bridge speed?

Could this be solely due to wet filament?

Thanks again

Just got my Elegoo Centauri Carbon a couple of days ago and began printing this little adapter for the faucet in my bathroom. I ran all the calibrations on the printer when I first got it and again today to see if that would fix the size difference between what's in the model vs. what's really printing. As you can see in the pictures, the printer is off by somewhere between 0.15-0.30mm on all dimensions. I got around this by just adjusting the dimensions very slowly larger to fit the faucet, but I feel like in 2026 printers should be able to print exactly what's modeled. I couldn't find much info on this type of issue on Reddit or YouTube. So figured I'd make my own post. I'm printing in White PLA from Elegoo with the standard print profile for this material preloaded in the Elegoo slicer. I ran the One-click Self-check calibration on the printer which did Automatic Leveling, PID Tuning and Input Shaping. I am printing with a 0.4 nozzle at 220°C with the bed temp at 60°C. I am printing at 100% infill since the adapter needs some strength. I also printed a couple Benchys which came out really good. The layer lines in the photo of them look way worse than in person just because of the lighting. The black filament is Elegoo PLA+. The Benchys were printed at standard 15% infill. Thanks.

Too hot? Too slow? Too fast?
Using orcaslicer on an Ender V3

I have been having a lot of problems with bed adhesive lately so I got the BIQU cryogrip pro as I heard a lot of good things about that. But now after putting it in every print fails because the auto bed leveling fails every time. I am almost certain this build plate is compatible with the P2S as I have seen several people post completed prints using this build plate. Does anyone know what I could be doing wrong and how to fix it?

I use the bambu p2s with the bambu studio slicer. I am attempting to print using PLA.

Can anybody explain what is happening with my print in the last couple of millimeters of a fan cutout? The section below is printed with a good enough quality but the last part, where the circle is closed, shows oozing. Not only that but the entire layer line shows a slight shifting.

Printer: Bambulabs P1S (top vent open during print) + AMS2Pro

Filament: Bambulabs Basic white with all default settings

Layer height: 0.2 standard (adaptive layer height)

What I tried so far: Small perimeter threshold with 30% print speed of the ribs. This brought no improvement however. Parts cooling fan is at 100%, aux fan 60% and chamber fan at 40%.

Hey everyone, I’m at my wit's end here and could really use some help. I'm trying to print a large, two-part motorcycle radiator guard (approx. 330mm wide) out of Elegoo PAHT-CF on my Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 Combo, but no matter what I do, the corners start warping and lifting off the build plate around the 3-hour mark. Here is my current setup and settings: Printer: Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 Combo (CC2) Filament: Elegoo PAHT-CF (Note: currently drying it on the heatbed due to an arriving dryer box tomorrow, though I know it might still have some moisture). Print Settings: Nozzle Temp: 290°C Bed Temp: 110°C Chamber Temp: Stable at 51–55°C (enclosure fully sealed, gaps taped up) Cooling Fan: 0% (forced overhang/bridge cooling disabled) Adhesion: 10 mm inner/outer brim + 3D Lac spray on textured PEI First Layer: Slower speed, thicker lines, squished down with adjusted Z-offset Despite having a fully heat-soaked enclosure, zero part cooling, a 10mm brim, and trying different amounts of 3D Lac, the internal stresses of this material on a large print keep ripping the corners up around hour 3. Is there something I'm missing with PAHT-CF at this scale, or is my bed/adhesion method just not cutting it for pure nylon? Any tips or tweaks would be hugely appreciated!

CRYOGRIP orange with Petg (250c)

Build plate was at 30c

I tried everything. Even stuck the thing into the freezer but I am stuck.. better the PETG is....

I am out of words and ideas. I didn't want to use the metal scraper. This is a brand new plate :/

Yes I can return it to Amazon but wth is happening.

Any ideas?

Hi All - Whenever I sprint a whole build plate of something, it always dies in a mess. I dried for 24 hours, 7% humidity. Calibrated with this specific spool.

Min temp is 220, max is 270

Build plate is 70.

• Printer Model - Bambu Labsx2d
• Slicer - bambu studio
• Filament material and brand - Petg+ Inland
• Nozzle and bed temperature .4 Nozzle @-220 min, bed temp is 70
• Print Speed - 50mm/s initial, 105 mm/s infill, 50mm/s outer wall 200mm/s inner wall
• Retraction settings - length .8mm, speed 30mm/s, detraction 30mm/s
• Flow ratio .95
• Min fan 40, max fan 90

I just happen to be using petg this time, usually when I'm doing a big print like with with PLA and ABS, I get the same result. I end up just printing about 1/4 of what the bed should be able to handle.

Should I adjust the temps up? If so, what would you recommend.

Printer is a k2 combo with creality hp-Asa filament using orca slicer

I've been trying to dial in my print profile for my new 0.2mm nozzle on the Qidi Q2 as I would like to print detailed miniatures but I'm consistently getting these super rough textures or what occasionally looks like under extrusion. I'm thinking maybe the nozzle is dragging somehow? Maybe poor layer adhesion?

I'm using orca slicer and have already calibrated max volumetric flow, pressure advance, flow rate, retractions, and Z offset. Pressure advance might be wrong?

The print in the photo is a bridging calibration.

Filament is Grey Elegoo Matte PLA

Just the outer perimeters are rough. The center is smooth. Material is petg with .02 layers. After the first attempt, I dried the filament overnight. Same result. Any ideas?

Before i send this to the printer, how do i fix these gaps?

Snapmaker U1

Snorca Slicer

.2 layer height

PLA Basic

0.6mm nozzle

0.4mm layer height

0.42-0.48mm layer widths

50-60mm/s print speed

Ender 5 Plus (mostly) stock printer

I know 0.4mm will leave some lines by what I see online, but is it supposed to be this significant?

It's my first time printing 0.4mm height, as my giant projects don't need the smoothness of 0.2mm layers.

While printing, the filament is coming out in little blobs, similar to under-extrustion. Raising nozzle temps from 200 to 220 helped slightly, slowing print speeds from 50 down to 40 mm/s maybe did something, and lowering retraction distance from 6mm to 4mm basically changed nothing. I also adjusted the z-axis, which only helped up to a certain point.

So is this normal for a 0.4mm layer height? I expect a bigger ridge, but I expect it should be more consistent than the mess I'm getting.

Hi I'm pretty new to designing parts for 3D printing. I'm trying to figure out how to get this clip to print well. This is a clip that will snap into an extrusion channel and secure a proximity switch. I tried printing it vertically and it really doesn't look very good. Can I print this horizontally? How would I support the overhangs? I don't mind redesigning the part as needed, I just can't add any material to the "clip" section (see 2nd image).

• Printing on a Prusa i3 MK3S+
• Prusa PETG (Orange)
• 0.4mm nozzle
• PrusaSlicer

Also pretty new to PETG and getting a lot of stringing, but I'm more interested in fixing the part/support/print orientation if possible. I'm using the default settings for Prusa PETG on PrusaSlicer.