Hi all,

I have bought a honda CG with the aim of restoring it and running it while I am completing my license in the UK. However I have been unable to get it to produce a spark

I have replaced the ignition coil, plug cover, points and cleaned the alternator and am still not producing a spark. I have noticed that the ignition coil is producing static when kicking the starter however, which was not happening before replacing the points. Any advice would be great!

I got this second hand 2021 honda rebel 500 back at the start of the year and when I bought it I saw it didn't have much left on the brake pads and knew they'd need replacing soon but otherwise looked fine.

Fast forward to a couple months ago the rear pads are completely gone and the front has barely anything left and is leaking a teeny bit so I finally took it to the garage and they replaced all the pads and the cylinder on the front and it was all good for a couple months.

Now to the the present the front brake is leaking again and worse. in two rides half of the reservoir seems to have leaked out and its below the low limit so I wouldn't consider it safe to ride and it's my main mode of commute and transport. Idk if I wanna take it to the garage again cause they're kinda expensive and they take ages tbh and I have some self maintenance experience on bikes so figured I might try it.

When I first noticed and checked the breaks the leak seemed to come from where the line connects to the caliper and trickle down the front of the caliper. I'm not super familiar with brake systems and terms for all that but the washers on the hose fitting don't exactly look super mint.

After trying to pump the brakes a bit more to chase the leak it seems to be coming from inside around the pads or cylinder and dripping out of the bottom (see images) and stuff so idk if it's the cylinders or maybe I need a whole new caliper.

Any advice or help on for further diagnosing the specific part or seal or issue or what to look out for if I disassemble it and what to fix or replace would be very appreciated thanks!

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some help diagnosing an issue with my 2021 Yamaha Tracer 7 (CP2) with around 24,000 km / 15,000 miles.

Recently the bike has started behaving differently at idle.

Symptoms:
Idle has become noticeably less smooth/steady than before.
The bike occasionally stalls while idling.
It seems to happen more often when the engine is cold, although the idle doesn’t feel completely smooth when warm either.
The check engine light has now also come on.
Every time I start the bike, whether the engine is completely cold or already warm, the RPM briefly shoots up to around 3,000–4,000 rpm before dropping back down.
Once running and riding, the bike generally seems to run much better than it does at idle.
The battery also seems to drain fairly quickly if I leave the ignition switched on without the engine running.

I have checked the battery/charging system and the numbers seem healthy:
Engine off: around 12.6 V
During starting: around 11.0 V
At 4–5k rpm: around 14.0 V

So I don’t currently think the charging system is the main problem.

The bike has around 24,000 km on it. I’m wondering if this could be related to:
Idle Speed Control / ISC valve
Dirty throttle bodies
Throttle body synchronization
Vacuum/intake leak
MAP/TPS or another sensor
Spark plugs/coils
Injector/fueling issue

The high 3–4k RPM flare on every startup, including with a warm engine, combined with the unstable idle and occasional stalling, makes me particularly suspicious of the idle control/throttle body system.

I’m going to read the stored fault code before clearing anything.

Has anyone with a 2021+ MT-07 / Tracer 7 / CP2 experienced something similar?
What ended up being the cause?
And are there any specific hoses, sensors, throttle body/ISC components or common failure points you would recommend checking first?
Thanks!

Just recently got the bike it didn’t make this hell another day but when I started it this morning, it had a knocking /tapping sound that went away overtime. Can someone please tell me what this is and hopefully it’s not that expensive. What does it sound like it could be

engine has 27k miles, was sitting for long time. recently got engine running and thought it was timing chain so I installed manual cct, valves were all in spec, any ideas ? Also this is after a few minutes of idle

Stripped my bike down today because my ypvs was not working properly.
The bike is a 1987 Yamaha DT125
My ypvs servo has issues because it normally doesn't work at all or just works but only after a ride or after I ran the engine a little bit.
I wanna change my battery because it's old and probably worn out (12V 5Ah).
Sometimes the servo motor works just fine with the "bzzz-bzzzz" sound but only after running the engine for a lil bit.
I took the plastics and tank off my bike and tried to inspect and clean every connector in sight but no luck. Still think it's the battery.
•And what is this black box? Is it the regular CDI or the controller for ypvs?
•There is another box that says YAMAHA on it and is right next to the ypvs motor.
I would apreciate everyone's help and advice if you've ever owned a bike like this.

Hi guys so I was looking on the forum and saw people that were having problem when the bike went to 6.5k rpms the Benelli would gag and not develop so I bought a after market piece and installed it placed everything like it was before but after replacing it and place the circuit on the fuel pump stoped working and I don’t why it’s happening .
Everything is in place at least I think my first opinion is that the vaccum from the maps tube is not correctly placed
Can anyone help me with this

thanks and sorry for my bad English

My buddy was riding the bike a couple months ago and as he was accelerating all of the electronics went completely dark and the engine just stopped. There were no lights, warnings, anything, everything just stopped working. When we got it back home, I found that the main 20 amp fuse had blown, and later found out that the starter solenoid had a short. I put a spare fuse in it, and as soon as the key turned, it blew. I bought a new starter solenoid, hooked it up and turned the key on. This time, the electrics came on, and it seemed like I'd fixed it. When I tried turning the engine over it cracked a couple times before the same thing happened, it all died. Same thing, try another fuse, turn the key, fuse blows immediately. Since then I've done about all of the tests I can think of with a multimeter and haven't found anything, other than the solenoids (new and old) were shorted. If I plug the battery in and bypass the solenoid, just connecting the positive to the starter motor, it cranks just fine, and the terminals remain at room temperature. I took the starter motor off and turned it by hand, it turned by hand and seems to have the right amount of tension. To me at least, it seems like it could be anything other than the starter motor causing this short.

Does anyone know what it is/could be and where I should test next/how to do it?

UPDATE The starter solenoid isn't shorted, I had a false reading. Testing it tonight, the electric system powered on for a time until more current was sent through it by me hitting the horn (I didn't do this when the fuse blew before, so it's not that). I put a bigger fuse in to see if that would work with it, and it blew that instantly. Currently thinking it may not be a wire grounding itself to the bike via vibration, but rather heat causing a short. If there's anything that would cause overheating that lead to a hard-short? I'm not sure where/what is causing it still

Alright, tldr: sheared off some metal trying to remove the highlited bit. Will it be okay to continue cleaning and reassemble? Or do I need a new carburetor?

Recently acquired my first motorcycle, a 98 Honda shadow ACE 750. I was trying to diagnose startup issues, and one possibility was that the carburetor needed cleaning.

After I started to disassemble it, it honestly looked fine, but I'm here and wanted to continue to disassemble and clean to learn, and I was enjoying the process.

Unfortunately, part way, I was trying to remove the highlited bit with a flat head and ended up shearing off a small chunk. Honestly surprised me because I didn't think I used that much force.

My question: will this affect the performance of the carburetor substantially, and I need to buy a new one? Or am I good to continue with the cleaning and send it?

I am prepared to be roasted for messing with it when it was probably unnecessary, but this is how I learn. I just know the carburetor internals are fairly intricate and figured it could be an issue.

2023 Husqvarna fc250 with 14hrs experiencing high rpm’s while off throttle before returning to idle. After the bike warms up and you let off the throttle while riding and holding in clutch, bike stays in high rpm’s for a good 5 seconds before returning to idle. Have changed the fuel, checked spark plug and filters, messed with idle screw, adjusted throttle and cables, plugged and unplugged all sensors. Husqvarna dealership had for a week and changed fuel pump which didn’t fix it, then told me they couldn’t figure issue out and to try swapping ecu’s with a similar bike.
Edit: Bike would no longer idle unless providing throttle, and now will not start. Any ideas for a fix?

Hey I have a question I have a 2005 Harley Davidson. With a 100” motor. 585 cams and a 2 into 1 ultima header. Can I use a higher output coil to increase performance

I was coming home from a 30 mile ride when my screen went off I got home thankfully and when I turned it off the screen would not come on and would not start it blew the blue 15 fuse I’m thinking it’s a short I only have 118 miles on it have any of you had something like this happen before I also had to recharge battery before my ride don’t know if that was part of it appreciate any information…

i have a 85 kawasaki vulcan 700. got it recently, been fixing it up. yesterday i took the tank off to paint it and when we put the tank back on, i didn't realize it but there was a kink in the left hose coming off the petcock.

I had taken the bike for a ride. probably about 18min of riding or so. running strong, i rode up into the mountains, slight elevation change. and when i went to turn around the bike just died, i went to start it back up and it acted like it was about to crank up all the way but just sputtered out.

after that i noticed there was gas coming from the air filters, the choke plunger and out of the exhaust. i googled it and it said basically everything was flooded and i probably got gas in my oil.

This morning i changed the oil and oil filter, checked the spark plugs and they didn't look great i replaced 3 of them. tried to start it again and it cranks just fine but it wont spark up and turn on.

at this point i have the air filters off and the spark plugs out letting everything evap i guess. I'm not sure what to do from here.

i also saw on a forum i could take the spark plugs out and press the ignition a few times to help get the gas out. tried that as well.

any help would be awesome.

I took the bolts holding on the sprocket cover on my 08 zx6r and can’t find them… shot in the dark, but anyone know what size they are? I bought a set of M6 bolts and none fit. Waiting on M8s but if someone knows the size I can run and grab some in the morning.

Whenever you first start on the bike either from low rpms or on the holeshot it tends to sputter/hesitate but is completely fine when you get going. It also revs out completely fine in neutral, I only have the issue when the bike is moving. I checked the tps, replaced injector, replaced fuel pump, replaced spark plug, checked compression, checked top end, replaced map switch, checked fuel pressure, checked grounds, replaced throttle body, and replaced fuel filters but can’t seem to get it. Any ideas

Hi all,

July 2025, I was coming home from a 2-2.5hr ride from SD to LA. Right around the frwy exit, I felt a hard dip, like I hit an invisible pothole and slammed down a bit.

I didn't notice anything right away and only had 3 turns home.

Couple days later I hopped on to go downtown for a friend's gig. I made it about 3 turns and decided to bail the moto ride because it felt wobbly. Took it home and it's been there since.

When I take off; esp. on a turn, it feels wobbly and gnarly unsafe. Same when shifting and slowing down.

I did a quick visual check and felt some nuts/bolts for anything loose. Forks felt ok. All looked ok, but I wasn't able to get into it.

I rolled my ankle the next month; PT through Jan. this yr, then got a shoulder injury that landed me back in PT Feb.; just had bicep tenodesis surgery last week.

Needless to say, not riding until next yr (6mo recovery). Took the battery out and topped the tires off.

Any ideas w/o physically checking it out?

Hi, I just wired an aftermarket tail tidy and the flashers that came with it don’t work and the front flashers are way too fast, it came with a can bus adapter, but the speed isn’t my main issue. Did I wire the lights wrong?

Ive been having issues with my coolant boiling out from the overflow hose. I've put in a new radiator, coolant cap, inspected the pump, and still boiling. This video is after the bike has been running for 10 minutes without the cap on.

Does it look like exhaust gasses? Im not sure this bike is worth enough for me to be bothered to change the head gasket

Hi everyone, looking for some mechanical insight on a bike I just test-rode.

Context: I’m a rider in Malaysia looking at a used 2022 CFMoto 250SR with 24,000 km (approx. 15,000 miles) on the clock. It's from a reputable used dealer platform and has passed their inspection checklist, except for expired tires and minor cosmetic blemishes/broken tabs on the fairing cover set near the tank.

(Note: Before anyone suggests looking at Japanese parallel-twins or larger displacement bikes, I am locked into this specific 250cc class model due to local tiered licensing restrictions in my country, market pricing, and my current daily commuter situation. This bike fits my needs and budget perfectly right now, so I'm looking to diagnose this specific machine rather than cross-shop alternatives).

The bike shifts and rides fine under power, upshifting smoothly, though downshifting felt slightly unsmooth. The main issue I noticed happens at idle in Neutral:

• Video 1: Early in the ride (engine warming up, radiator fan not yet on). When I pull the clutch lever in Neutral, the engine bogs down and dies completely. This happened twice at (0:04) and (0:33).
• Video 2: Later in the ride (engine hot, radiator fan actively spinning). The issue persists. Pulling the clutch lever causes the idle to become choppy at (0:10) before choking out and dying again.
• Video 3: A baseline video of the general engine sound at idle for reference.

Aside from this, the radiator fan kicked on normally once it reached operational temperature, the clutch lever pull feels smooth, and the transmission clicks into neutral easily when hot. The brakes feel a bit soft with a low initial bite, but the lever pressure remains firm (likely just old pad friction combined with hard, expired tires).

What could be causing the engine to bog down and stall simply by pulling the clutch lever in Neutral? Could it be a faulty clutch micro-switch/safety sensor throwing off the ECU's idle fueling map, a weak battery/stator voltage drop, or an ignition coil/boot leaking current once warm?

Would love to get your technical input on what to inspect so I can push the dealer's workshop to fix it during my booking grace period. Thank you!

vid1

vid2

vid3

You can see the melted plastic in the photo. From what I can tell, that loose copper wire was the culprit. This is on the left (drive) side of the bike. Anyone know what type of connector this uses so I can replace it?