r/goodyearwelt • u/VariationAny118 • 19h ago
Original Content Review: Mushmans (Japan) Side Zip Boots
Here's another side-zip review — this time of Mushmans, a more niche and lesser-known Japanese brand, at least to a North American audience. They seem to be a small-batch, limited release, and I only discovered them when looking for an alternative to RDT's Gleaners, since those are often sold out.
Initial Thoughts & Fit
I already have RDT's Gleaners and Loros in size 9. So I reached out to the owner at Mushmans and asked for his perspective on sizing. He was confident that RDT's Gleaners fit similarly to the Mushmans side zip, and he is correct. The 9 Mushmans are a near-identical fit to the 9 Gleaners. There is some tightness here and there, which I know will resolve throughout the break-in, but there is absolutely no pinching or crushing sensation (which is really important for side zips). They are a very comfortable fit out of the box and maybe a touch wider than the Gleaners.
Style
I decided to buy these Mushmans because I viewed them as more rugged than the Gleaners but more refined than the Caspers. Ultimately, they are their own boot. They certainly have a bit more of a punk/Paraboot or Doc Martens feel than the Gleaners, as they're a touch wider and just look more rugged overall. But the toe box is not too large, and it is unstructured, so I could see the uppers flattening out to the shape of my foot over time.
I'm very happy with the design. They strike the balance of being mean and rock-'n'-roll looking while still being, like other Japanese boots, refined and dressy. They don't look like most North American heritage boots, which have toe boxes that are too big and ultimately look like work boots; nor do they look like European boots, which are always more dressy and refined.
I actually bought these out of protest against the Our Legacy and 3sixteen side-zip boots. Lately, my feed has been flooded by reviews of these boots. Although they look very cool, and I may get a pair eventually, I wanted something with a similar tough presence but different (to me, style is about carving your own path), so I was lucky that the Mushmans side zips were available.
More on Style
The boots use Nero Minerva Liscio leather from Badalassi (Italy), and although I'm not a leather snob, this leather has a really nice gloss and shine; it almost looks like a deep dark blue as opposed to just black.
One other core difference between the Mushmans and Gleaners, or even Addict's Zip Western, is the use of a raised Goodyear welt as opposed to a flat one. At first, I wasn't sold on this look, as it makes the welt more prominent, and in the photos the brown welt looks a bit bright. However, upon receiving the boots, the raised welt and brown heel stack are much darker and do not pop out at all. They provide a nice, subtle contrast to the Liscio upper and Vibram sole.
Final Thoughts
If you're looking for a unique side-zip boot outside of the better-known Japanese brands, Mushmans has launched a very respectable and special boot. It's almost like a mix of the Our Legacy and 3sixteen side zips with the RDT Gleaners.
Importantly, the Mushmans side zips fit similarly to the Gleaners, so if you already know your RDT size, you can purchase these without trying them on. For perspective, my foot is 9.5 Brannock, or 27 cm, and E in width.