After a month of waiting, our new game showed up today. Pretty straight forward (2-person) assembly... Looking forward to lots of games with the kids!

#bubblehockey #ice #superchexx

Hey everyone!

So I recently moved and made myself a game room. Now I wish to make a arcade cabinet that can play of course arcade games and things like snes/ps2 things like that. But I also wish to play windows xp/98 games on it. I still have a bunch of old pc games. Any tips on what I should look at or what my options are?

I am redesigning the top tomorrow. Spinner is too close to the trackball for hard Golden Tee shots. Overall happy with it, gotta get some bolts tomorrow and also adding suction cup feet

Works perfect until I have time to build a controller deck.

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Hey everyone! I’m looking for some advice on an arcade project.

Has anyone built or converted a rolling arcade cabinet/control panel to be completely wireless using Bluetooth?

I’m hoping to build a 4-player setup that can roll out when we want to play, then be moved out of the way when we’re done. Ideally, I’d like the controls to connect wirelessly to a Raspberry Pi running the games, so there wouldn’t be any USB cables running from the cabinet to the TV/Pi.

Is there a good way to make all 4 sets of joysticks/buttons communicate over Bluetooth without noticeable input lag? Is there a pre built pedestal that already does this? If anyone has done something similar, I’d love to see your setup and what hardware/encoder boards you used.

Thanks!

I'm thinking of using threaded buttons for my first home arcade console and fixing them to 4mm acrylic. So not acrylic on top of wood. The framework of the unit will be wood. I think there's about 10 buttons. Will the acrylic take it and remain firm or will it bend in use?

Instructions always talk about metal or wood with thin acrylic on top but I was thinking about 4mm to 5mm. There's probably a good reason for it but thought I'd ask.

Thanks

Will do until I can get a bigger screen (that can actually go 4:3) or even some real CRTs

I’m hoping you can provide some guidance on converting my existing arcade cabinet from a Pandora DX system to a Raspberry Pi 5 running Batocera.
The cabinet currently uses a Pandora DX Saga Plus 5000 box connected through a blue 56-contact edge connector. The controls currently work correctly with the Pandora system.

The control panel has:
Two joysticks
Six action buttons per player
Player 1 and Player 2 start buttons
Additional coin/exit-type buttons
The joysticks and buttons are standard microswitch controls, and all of the wiring runs into the existing blue harness connector.

There are no separate USB encoder boards fitted beneath the control panel.
I have already purchased a Raspberry Pi 5. Video and audio will be handled separately:
Pi video output will be converted to VGA for the existing LCD.
Pi audio will go through a USB sound adapter into the cabinet’s existing amplifier.
I therefore only need an interface for the joysticks and buttons.

My understanding is that the cabinet uses a JAMMA-style 56-pin connector but may be wired using the Pandora/CHAMMA six-button arrangement, with the additional buttons potentially carried on pins 25–27.

Could you please advise:
Would the J-PAC-C Control Only version be the correct interface for this setup?
Would it read all six buttons for both players directly through this existing harness?
Would I require a CHAMMA-to-JAMMA adapter or any additional wiring for buttons 4–6?
Are there any power or voltage precautions I should take before connecting the existing harness to the J-PAC-C?
As the Raspberry Pi will have its own separate official power supply, should any power pins from the cabinet harness be disconnected or isolated?
Would you recommend the J-PAC-C over an I-PAC or another Ultimarc product for this particular conversion?
I have attached photographs showing:
The two-player, six-button control panel
The microswitch wiring beneath the controls
The existing blue 56-contact harness connector
The Pandora DX edge connector into which the harness currently plugs
I would greatly appreciate confirmation before purchasing the interface, as I would prefer to retain the existing harness and avoid rewiring every joystick and button individually.

Full article on the new Double Dragon home arcade cabinet from Iconic Arcade!

I don't know guys, I'm really considering a truxton cab now -

They had to recreate a few things here - a new, but largely similar experience. Why did it attract us back then? It was one of the most beautiful 16 bit schmups anyone had every seen, and even against today's standards of gorgeous and they killed it here.

On top of it, it was a good game and it had to have all of it this time around - a little new, by the standards of the time blow any schmup you've ever seen away. Perfect amount of new with out changing the overall experience. Must play if you're an arcade sweat

A shooter I finally do not want scanlines on. Just amazing a++++ y'all must try this if you're an arcade fan of the series.

Has anyone recently ordered a #SuperChexx bubble hockey table from ICE (bubblehockey.com) to comment on the delivery experience? I just placed an order and then saw a note upon check out that the delivery is to the curb only and the driver will not assist... the customer must remove from the truck themselves.

Trying to understand if this is accurate? Might the experience depend on the delivery driver?

Hi, it's been a dream of mine to own an MVS since I was a kid.

My question is, is there any suggestions or recommended resources for looking for a fair price for an MVS?

TL;DR: A local shop nearby got ahold of a beautiful looking single cart board version, BUT the CRT had gone out and was replaced with a flat screen instead.

And advice or suggestions is greatly appreciated.

Taito Vewlixvs $980usd/each +shipping.I am selling these, please contact me if you are interested.Located in China.all is tested working.There are only 2 units in stock.

https://athomearcades.com/big-announcements-everything-arcade1up-revealed-at-sdcc-2026/