Objec77b V2 gimbal - what filament use for print?

[u/PoverOn]

I have zero experience with 3D Printer parts. I'm think in order the print of the frames, stock (pole) of this gimbal with PTEg, but what filament use for the CAM's? A local printer shop has these materials:

• Engineering materials - double the price relative to PTEg

1. ABS
2. ASA
3. TRITAN
4. PC FR

• Advanced Engineering - triple the price relative to PTEg

1. PC-ABS
2. PA6-CF
3. PA6-GF
4. PAHT-CF
5. PPS-CF

The shop use BAMBULAB H2S

Print in medium quality

Filling: 30%

EDIT - Text

[u/GD-A]

It depends a lot on the shape of the part itself. Rest assured that if you aren't Hulk, even pla (the "cheapest filament" assuring the use of enough walls) can withstand almost every use case scenario.

Said so, it depends a lot on the part itself. Is the shaft really long or it's a simple gimbal interface (like the vkb ones for example)?

Have you control on the orientation of the print? If the piece is really long, printing it laying on the bed it's better for the layer structure (the printed part will be more fragile perpendicular to the layer, the more the part is tall the less is strong), so if you have a long shaft ( like a letter l) it's better to print it like this _ to avoid the possibility of snapping between layers.

Some filament are a little worse in layer adhesion (sometimes the more particular ones are the most prone to snapping). Many YouTubers have tested them.

If I were you, I'd ask for DRIED Petg (Petg is one of the filament, with abs and ASA, most prone to absorbe moisture and resulting in very weak layers adesion), 3 walls, 20% infill (it doesn't matter for strength, only for physicality...over 15/20% unless you plan on sitting on the piece it's an overkill) and the best orientation giving the height of the piece.

Have you got an image of the piece you want to print? So that I can give you advice on how to orient it to print the best way.

[u/PoverOn → u/GD-A]

Thank you for take time in answer.

The gimbal for recplace the pincer mechanism in VKB Gladiator MK.II, for use in desktop. One installed in VKB Gladiator.

In this links one sample printed for T16000M joystick, the part that the author suggest print in more strong material is the CAM (the bearing follower - in green in the the 3D image). Probable because the anchor for spring is tiny, a failure point, needing more strong material.

https://www.printables.com/model/206806-object-77b-v2-gimbal-remix-for-thrustmaster-t16000#preview.sHMHx
https://imgur.com/gallery/t16000m-upgrade-with-modified-object-77b-v2-gimbal-Pwu4rb6

Have you control on the orientation of the print? 

The only options the shop give me - besides the filament; is choose the filling (10% - 20% - 30% - 40% - 50% - 60% - 80% - 100%).

This is the printing service: https://fabrica3d.co/wordpress/index.php/produto/orcamento/

In "my corner of the world", is the shop I found with viable price. Professional shops only accept orders above $100 (USD), one ask the price of a hobby 3D Printer for the service.

[u/GD-A → u/PoverOn]

Oh, you're a fellow European then! I bought my first printer in 2018 because of the same problem. One part for the cost of a printer.

Said so. Ok, so it's not the shaft, it's the gimbal cam that you need.

Ok, better. So, in this case the suggestion for a stronger material make some sense. Still, if you print in the right orientation (see photo) with at least 3 walls, that piece will become very difficult to snap. Said so, if you pay for the service, I'd ask to the printing servic to have an image of the part on the bed to see if they are making it right.

Said so, I think that Petg is strong enough. If you want to be absolutely utterly sure, abs and then vapor smooth it to have a complete fusion of the layers.

[u/PoverOn → u/GD-A]

I see; I'll check if they print it that way. Thank you very much.