I've seen a decent bit saying that since the front bearings are press in, I should just replace the steering knuckle, but I already have the bearings. How bad is the job? I could buy a steering knuckle and press the new bearings in, but I figured I'd ask here first. 2016 patriot sport btw. I'm decently mechanically skilled, but I haven't done this job before.
what’s up everybody quick update from my last post. I was able to get my jeep towed to my mechanic. I indeed need a new alternator my question for the community here if anybody has experienced this in the past, you’ve heard we’ve all heard you know jeeps have problems here problems there about six months ago. I had to get my entire break system replaced new brake lines rotors all that and now the alternator has anybody else experienced alternator issues and or issues with your Jeep after getting a new alternator basically is there something next that I need to expect? Thank you.
Hi everyone,
Hoping someone can assist. Battery warning light came on, checked alternator and came up low voltage(turn lights on and dropped to 11.7). Replaced it, drove fine for 2 days. Light is back on, replaced my battery and serpentine belt, as well as the pulley for the belt. Still have the light on. Battery is charging/getting a charge when on, as well as the alternator. Does anyone know why this is happening? It will dim the interior lights and not start after driving for say 20 minutes with lights on. Thanks in advance!
I kept hearing rattling from the back passenger speaker, so I took off the cover tightened the screws. Then did a test drive without the covers on. No rattle. Then after putting the covers back on there’s the rattle again.
Has anyone else had this happen? Is there any advice yall would give to me to fix it?
TLDR: RockAuto TopNotch ACS1089L and R struts do not fit a 2016 2.4 4wd 6sp auto
I have a 2016 2.4 4wd 6sp auto. I needed to replace the front struts due to a broken spring. At most a 2 hour job
I ordered the follow; TopNotch ACS1089L and R. They show as an exact fit on RA.
I was in a rush and had already pulled out the old struts. When the new ones arrived I did not compare the two. Install was a breeze, 15 minute job tops. I did notice there was a flange at the bottom of the strut that was close to the CV boot - but didn't pay it much attention. Big mistake. Also the mounting placement for the new sway bar links made installation a bit difficult.
That flange tore a hole in the CV axle outer boot and shot grease everywhere. The end result two new CV axles and two new struts.
Because I was heading out of the country for two weeks and this is my sons car he commutes to college in I took it to a local shop. He confirmed that the mounting bracket for the sway bar link was in the wrong spot and that the flange had ripped the entire CV boot off.
My $200 w/shipping struts from RA has turned into a $1200 repair. I'll share a portion of the responsibility, I did not compare the new parts with the old. That's on me, I know better.
I emailed RA, I doubt I'll get any type of response
Hi all, my cruise control works intermittently between engine cycles. When it works it works exactly as expected. But sometimes when I drive it and hit the on/off button “cruise” doesn’t come up on the dash and none of the other buttons related to CC work.
I’m not in dire need for cruise control but some days it’s more convenient on highways so hoping it may be a simple solution.
Does anyone have ideas on how to diagnose? Thanks in advance.
Went to a salvage yard to get bows for a rack. Found two that had the same side rail system that matched my 2009. Didn't measure width because I was too happy to find brackets that matched. Looks like newer Patriots are 4 inches wider. Now I get to practice my cutting and drilling skills.
I have a 2015 Jeep patriot 123,000 miles. 2.4L engine. My battery light came on and I couldn’t do much about it until I got paid. I had the car running in park and the engine began to rev like crazy and all of my lights on my dash began flashing and the engine went off. I have had issues with my battery terminals being loose so I thought maybe it was that again but I ended up getting the alternator tested and was told it was no good. I bought a new one to be installed at a shop. The shop told me the battery was no good so they put in a new one as well. 5 minutes into me leaving and driving on the highway the battery light comes back on. Took the car back the next day and they told me either they put in a battery with a bad cell or the alternator I bought wasn’t a good fit for my jeep because they are “picky”. They did a parasitic draw test and told me I should be good to go now. And again about 10 minutes into me driving on the highway the battery light comes back on. The car has been driving fine and isn’t stuggling to start up. I’ve only been driving it to work that’s 5 minutes away (obviously I don’t want to keep driving it) . I’m $900 in the hole at this point and just wanted to see if anyone has had similar issues or insight as to why this could be happening before I spend more money at another shop. Thank you in advance
My Jeep has been getting a little past mid temp at idle and blows warm ac makes my reservoir tank bubble due to heat but does not overheat. First mechanics said it was too much freeon then it kept happening so i checked gemini and saw that my radiator fans were on when I looked. Next day it got hot again and vibrating so looked online again it said to check relays didnt have the tools for it so decided to take it back to them now they open the hood and saw that my fans were not spinning so he said it was that and the manager agreed even though I said to check my relays first. They charged me over 600 to change the radiator fan because he claimed it came with everything new which it didnt. So all of a sudden after replacing the radiator fan it worked for like 10 minutes i drive home and it gets warm again. The only way it gets cold is if i drive fast. So i go home and check my relays and saw that the low fan one wqs stuck so as i try to pull it out it a prong broke inside and i managed to get everything out and replaced all 4 and it still acts the same. 2 days ago im looking at my engine and see this 2 prong plug just dangling in front if my radiator fans and dont know where it goes.
Started yesterday after I got off work this noise. Happens only when the AC is on, still blows cold just loud af. Any suggestions what this could mean ? I already changed the fuse to the AC and nothing
hey everyone i’ve been having an issue with my 2017 Jeep patriot last few days driving the car and yesterday I went to accelerate and my air conditioner wasn’t working. I couldn’t accelerate was losing power. I eventually had to pull over on the side of the road turned off the car and luckily once I reset I was able to have enough power to get home. can anybody try to simplify what these codes are and kind of what I’m looking at for repairs here I would appreciate it. Thank you.
I turned on my a/c to hot for like 2-3minutes on Sunday. And since that, I’ve noticed that my a/c is blowing cool from the driver vent, but each vent you go across until you get to the passenger side, it blows warmer and warmer. The passenger side doesn’t have any cool coming out of it.
Anyone ever experienced this before?
It’s been happening for a week btw - today is Friday.
Any DIY solutions?
It’s 2012 Automatic Jeep Patriot I think it’s a 2.4 L4
I’m trying to remove the door panel to access the window regulator on the driver rear. I came across this white tab that seems to be connect to the frame of the regulator. Anyone know how to safely remove this?
2016 Jeep Patriot 67 thousand miles. Driving last night and it kept going into limp mode. I would turn the car off and turn it back on and it would drive fine for about a minute and then go back to limp mode. It was raining. I ended up limping it to my brothers house after the rain stopped and waiting there for about an hour. I was then able to drive it home and today I’ve driven it all over town with no issue. Could it have been the rain? And how would I check that. My battery is also somewhat old and has had issues before where the battery terminal clamps were too lose and would come off randomly while driving. It’s also died kindof randomly before. But when tested my battery is kinda in the yellow, not completely bad yet. Everything online is saying replace the throttle body but I am trying to do any other troubleshooting first because it don’t think I have the money to do both right now. I don’t think I can check codes as the issue went away and hasn’t come back. Any other troubleshooting ideas?
Update: the codes were stored and were p2110 and p2101.
Update2: Tested battery again and it said it was good, so I ahead and replaced throttle body. Just did a test drive and it sounded like it was running better. We will see if the limp mode happens again. Gonna get a new battery next paycheck anyway since it’s pretty old and looking gnarly. Thank you all for the quick responses!
Unfortunately it was too late and the transmission damage was already done due to lack of maintenance from previous owners (I snatched her too late at 185k) but she made it to exactly 210,012 miles before the transmission gave out. Never left me stranded and got me home 45 minutes away from home with a slipping CVT.
I will be replacing her with a 2000 Cherokee XJ, however I may keep her and replace the transmission down the line or be purchasing another patriot because I love them so much.
I will still be in the subreddit and with another patriot back and better than never. Hopefully I can just put in a new transmission and put her in storage for now 😁
2015 patriot north sport 2.4L 6 speed auto with 4x4. I've had a p0420 code on my jeep for long as I can remember. Maybe 3 years now. Its for bank 1 catalyst efficiency below threshold. My car has 281,000km on it. Was wondering what my options may be to resolve the issue for good. Would I be okay to just replace the o2 sensor? Or would I also have to replace the rest of the exhaust system aswell? I'm just hoping to be cost effective with it. If I can get away with just replacing the o2 sensor rather than both. I'd be happier with that.
Anyone with experience fixing this code leave your feedback below!
Want to change rear rotors and breaking pads of my 2015 patriot. Have tried all kinds of sorcery’s to remove the top slider pin, pb blaster, Kroil, torch, and just can’t remove it. I already striped two locking pliers trying to remove it. Now it’s all striped. Any tips?
Plan on keeping this 2009 for life but want to have some fun with it too. I try to do mock ups to give it a different profile by mounting things on magnets and using the rear receiver. I am in the process of putting a receiver on the front and make a dummy brush guard with real winch. OK finally my question. Are there any out there in cartoons or movies that I can try and duplicate. Shelf paper will be used to change color or window appearance.
Patriot 2011 after rain water filled behind the lights and leaking into the car. I have sunroof and windshield is not replaced. Anybody had an experience before?
Thanks
I had bought monroe quick struts for my jeep patriot a year ago, and apparently my struts mounts were loose when I got it back from the mechanic at the time.
I brought it in a week ago and they told me my struts mounts were loose and they tried tightening it but it wouldn’t, and that I’d need a new replacement.
Are monroes okay if I use KYB for the mounts? I noticed that monroe has more wear with their quick strut mounts, well far as I researched.
I was unfortunately not much knowledgeable when I bought quick struts not knowing any better.
They told me my monroes looked pretty brand new still and I wouldn’t need to to replace them