M4A1 Block II & CQBR Block II w/ accoutrements

So these are two of my three rifles that I own (10/22 not pictured). I’ve been toying with the idea of getting an AR or something newer in general. But every time I go and look I just feel underwhelmed and disappointed. I’ve shot plenty and I personally don’t see the hype behind them. Not saying people shouldn’t have them. By all means buy what you want. But does anyone else just feel like AR are overhyped? Nothing newer seems to get me excited like older weapons do.

Finally completed my gun wall while I was on vacation!

Just put the Holosun 407C gold dot on my G45 Gen 6. I have a ton of red dots. A couple greens. I’ve had a blue before. This is my first gold. I like it. A lot.

Take 30 seconds to sign the petition opposing the proposed GAME Act.

https://c.org/qHDcs5PnyJ

Rep. Jeff Hurd is expected to introduce a bill that would transfer more than 2,000 acres of BLM land northeast of Glenwood Springs to Out of Bounds Ranch.

I’ve hunted this parcel for decades. It is not “unused.” In a unit already dominated by private property, these parcels provide valuable elk habitat and access to connected public land.

This would DELETE over 2,000 acres of prime hunting access in unit 444.

This is not just about hunting, this is about preserving public lands. This isn’t a game, but unfortunately, some think otherwise.

Thank you!

I’m in the hunt for an ammo “ecosystem” I plan on getting a revolver and a carbine. I like 9mm because I can also get semiautomatic handguns. (.357 can too if I get a Desert Eagle)

My biggest constraint is I like having both semiautomatic and manually operated carbines. Realistically it’s one or the other. To my knowledge there are no .357 semiautomatic options, and for 9mm it’s the POF Tombstone or a break action single shot.

Ideally I’d be able to get both but I can’t convince myself that getting both calibers is a smart decision.

Unless theres a decently priced M1 carbine in .357 or a nice(r) lever/bolt action 9mm I’m 6 one way and half a dozen the other.

I appreciate your suggestion regardless!

I’m not sure who else it was on here who inspired the idea, maybe it was on the Echelon subreddit, but decided to purple cerakote my Icarus Precision Ace Echelon grip module. First time doing it by myself so there are a few imperfections and I think it’s a bit thick but overall pretty pleased! The gold accents make feel kinda Saints Row. Excited for it to cure fully and fully function check it.

Failure to stop at 7 & 10 yards. Avg 2.5ish. Nothing quite zens me out like this drill.

M&P shield plus. Safariland incognix AWB.

Finally got the Argus mount for my pics-7. Have a LAM coming tomorrow and will be doing a lowlight/no light comp in November. I have several hundred hours under pvs-14s so going back to a 7 will have a learning curve.

Pictured is
Team Wendy STP
Argus A4
Carlough Manufacturing PVS-7C

Crye JPC
Haley DC3R

PSA Sabre Mixtape 300 blackout. Temporary Acro P2 until the Primary Arms SLX 3x comes, KAK DBC Dual ejector, and Disruptor 3 position FRT also on the way. Die Free Co Kung Fu grip and Tiger claw added, metal mags. Suppressor is the JK Armament 155 RPX 30.

Hey all, I just watched this video for the first time, he did a great job breaking down the challenges of employing a firearm, in this case a handgun, defensively. It sent me on the thought exercise of what I have done in my past life as an armed professional and currently as a civilian, and I thought I would drop some of my tips here for you folks.

So having watched the video, you will have a better understanding that a huge amount goes into the shoot/no shoot reaction- and unless you want to go to prison, you are limited to reacting. This brings us to what I find is the most important aspect of self defense, which is active planning.

What this entails is removing parts of the decision making reaction prior to the actual engagement. This should really be ongoing whenever you’re away from home, armed or not, and ramp up as your instincts start noticing the threat vector increasing. Perhaps the most important part of thinking defensively is avoiding the fight in general. That goes into how I select where I live, work, enjoy my free time etc.

In this case however, we’re talking about the final preparation as avoidance is failing. All the factors such as totality of the circumstances (can be summarized as justification for use of force), backstop, egress routes, covered positions, secondary threats, and more must be taken into account before any confrontation begins. The best way to remove this from your reaction time is to process all of these factors, and come up with your Trigger Point. The TP is the single action you are waiting for the threat to do that will launch your rapid, deliberate, automated action- in essence, a battle drill. This can work with any reaction you are planning- flight, or fight with anything from physically restraining someone, to less-lethal, to use of deadly force with a firearm.

This frontloads much of the deliberate decision making, accomplishing several things:

1. Frame of Mind: If/when you have to explain your actions to police or god forbid a jury, you can show that your actions weren’t reckless or malicious. It also helps support your actions as defensive in nature by helping illustrate the specific atmosphere that resulted in you feeling threatened, a key portion of self defense law in most states.

2. Control: Practicing this type of ongoing, active assessment keeps you in control of the situation and aware of your surroundings. This means that you can stay ahead of threats rather than playing catch up to changes in your immediate environment while danger has already escalated beyond your posture.

3. Speed: Think of this process as your pre-flight checks. They will allow you to initiate movement quicker, while also protecting you by problem solving secondary factors before they cause catastrophe. It will take vital time out of a reaction that would be dangerous to make slowly. As they say, if you have to employ a handgun in self-defense, you have the rest of your life to make that shot.

4. Skill Development: This process also allows you to get better over time by constantly practicing thinking tactically, so that god forbid you ever reach that trigger point, you will be as prepared as possible. Employment of force happens very fast and ends just as quickly, but the intellectual portion can potentially continue for years through criminal and civil litigation.

So, im not new to guns; I've been shooting since I was 16-17 with my father and a family friend, and have always been around guns. I'm just curious: does anyone have any recommendations for guns that are A. Fun to shoot, B. legal in California, C. is not TOO expensive, I dont have a lot of money, but am willing to save to afford one, I dont mind if the ammunition is a little costly (i can just shoot less if i have to) but i was something </=$1000. also bonus if its an older gun (like the M1Garand) Im a history nerd, and like game consoles, they are phyical pieces of history that I can actively engage with and feel, and to me, theres a beauty to that. Any recs?

I have a poverty pony. Anderson lower, Davidson Defense Upper, with SS 18” bull barrel. Got it from the factory that white gloves most of the match barrels, and after market barrels you see around. Basically it’s a “blem” but the internals are to spec. 1:8 twist, .223 Wylde chamber.

Shooting some Hornady .223 Remington 68gr BTHP match.

I’m getting such weird accuracy. I have a Vortex 4-12 BDC scope. Designed for 50/200 zero for the BDC to line up.

At 50 yards, it’s shooting nearly 6 moa. But…. At 300, 450 and 500 it’s getting hits on 10” steel plates consistently.

So I’m thinking it’s me. Am I getting nervous and pulling shots up close? Any one else have this kind of thing happen? Scope rings are tight. Barrel lug is torqued to spec, bolt and BCG are good.

About 6 months ago, I was printing 1” groups at 100 with this rifle, and shooting golf balls for fun. Now I can’t hit anything under 200 yards, but somehow 300+ it’s shooting “fine”.

I think it’s 100% me, becuase it’s the same thing with my 6.5 Creedmoor Tikka. 3” groups at 100…. But also 3” groups at 300… 5” groups at 500.

I got the yips or something.

Just wondering if it’s a phase or something. Does it go away. Been like this for about a month (3x range sessions).

So it’s been a rough year… wife lost her job, my doggo died at 14 years old and my dad passed away a couple of weeks ago. I’ve not had time or energy to train or go to the range. I’ve accumulated a few pistols in my down time and decided to hit the range this morning. After about 150 rounds through my new Kimber 2k11 pro, a pain hit my right ribcage. It radiated into my back and my ribs… it was bad enough that I called it and packed it up.

After I got home, I looked it up and it seems to be a muscle strain (which is much better than pancreatitis). Seems to be a common issue when range and workout time slips away.

What do you guys do in your downtime to stay limber? Weight training, pilates or just general stretching? Anyone encountered this sudden pain when firing a pistol?

I'm sharing this because for a long time, I was under the impression that 25 yard zero was objectively "correct" and anyone who zero'd at a shorter distance than 25 yards was in some way incorrect. Over the past couple of days, I've decided to try to prove that to myself rather than just parroting the discourse I've seen online.

If you can't access the captions the first image is zero at 25 yards, the second image is zero at 15 yards, and the third image is zero at 5 yards (I accidentally captioned it as 7 yards, but it's really 5 yards).

The point of aim is always coordinate (0.00, 0.00). This is based on a 1,000 FPS muzzle velocity and 1 inch height over bore. Each of the circles is 3.25 MOA (the size of my red dot) just to demonstrate higher variance at distance.

The grid-lines are 1 inch.

The sizes of the circles from largest (furthest) to smallest (closest) are: 50 yards (purple), 25 yards (blue), 15 yards (green), 10 yards (purple), 7 yards (black), 5 yards (red), and 3 yards (blue).

The way to interpret this is that if you have your pistol zero'd to the same distance as the respective image and shoot aiming at coordinate (0.00, 0.00), the circles represent where your group would be centered at various distances.

I think after looking at this, I still prefer a 25 yard zero because it still seems slightly more compact than the 15 yard zero, but graphics that I've seen in the past would imply a much greater difference between 15 yard zero and 25 yard zero than I see here. Still definitely never zero at 5 yards.

If you'd like to play around with the parameters yourself, here's a snapshot of the Desmos graph: https://www.desmos.com/calculator/fsqpkzo88y

Is there anyone here that does PRS style shooting in this subreddit? Centerfire or rimfire..

see a lot of folks here posting pistols, range toys and self defense set ups that look pretty neat. Just curious if I’m the only one runnin high speed bolt guns I guess. If ya do, what set up are you running?

Looking for some advice or a discussion on this topic. Ive done a few out of state transfers with this particular FFL that I do enjoy working with and has been very quick on them.

On his site he states to not reach out and ask him about status of transfers due to him not being in the office everyday and he will text when our gun is ready to be 4473’d and picked up.

I sent 2 guns his way that he texted me the day after they were delivered they were all set.

The third gun I sent has been sitting in his shop since early August and hasn’t texted me yet. I’m still pretty new to using him and don’t wanna mess with the relationship since he offers great deals to regulars.

Do I send a friendly reminder at some point just to make sure everything is alright? Or just play the waiting game. Thanks!

Saw an sig 556 rifle at a local shop that’s peaked my interest. Anyone own one? Just curious about some feedback from owners.

EDIT: thanks for all the suggestions yall. And thank you for the corrections and safety reminders. I humbley appreciate it.

Come to find out, its the brand of ammo I'm using.

I had switched to Frontier. I switched BACK to Winchester and it works fine now. Thanks yall.

I'm stumped yall

I have a Partisan FRT, H3 buffer, correct BCG, and lower.

When I first installed it a couple weeks ago, it was running just fine in Semi and FRT. Now, everytime I take a shot, the bolt doesnt chamber another round.

Idk if it's a gassing issue or an FRT issue.

Ive gone down a rabbit hole and tried almost everything I can think of. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

The rifle of the people, for the people, by the people

Picked this up from my local FFL Thursday, put 250 flawless rounds through it Saturday.
- Accurate (as accurate I am, which is meh)
- A little front heavy, but reasonable
- 20 round mags, that’s a lot!!
- grip is a little small, so I’ll be getting gloves.
- FUN!!

First gun is a Walther .22 PPQ.
- great ergonomics
- cheap ammo
- Great to shoot
- small mags, only 10 rounds

Both are great shooters…

Hey guys, I'm finally going to be pulling the trigger on a piece ive wanted for a while now as the labor day sale price is too awesome to pass up. Unfortunately I do not get paid until Wednesday at midnight or so. I've heard conflicting reports regarding how long the Labor Day sale will be and its a bit confusing. Some say it'll end right on Tuesday at midnight, some say it'll continue for as long as a week afterwards and everything in-between. I even had an AI give me the odds of the sale price still being there on pay day which, according to that, is an 85% chance itll still be up (i know i know, AI is the worst, i dont disagree) . Does anyone have any insight on this? I've been putting off the purchase all summer since I know they do a lot of sales and figured it won't be an issue but of course, here i am lmao. I know a couple dudes on reddit are PSA employees so if any of you guys see this then a response would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!