r/MAKEaBraThatFits Dec 12 '20

Meta [Meta] Early draft of the wiki is now live!

89 Upvotes

(Link to last meta post update)


Hi everyone!

I have finished the first rough outline of the wiki, with a very basic overview of resources and suppliers. I tried to do a little bit of everything, so I did research on classes, books, vloggers besides the ones I already knew, suppliers, and patterns.

The pattern section is probably what I spent the most time on, and I am pretty disappointed at the size range of popular patterns now that I feel like I have collected almost all of them in one place. A depressing number never even went above a :5 (DD)!

I also converted the size ranges for patterns into index sizing (like Bratabase uses); I know this may seem confusing at first if you have never utilized index sizing, but I think it is the most clear and coherent way to organize/reference patterns that use a lot of different size systems. There were a lot of different sizing systems employed across pattern makers, so I felt it would be misleading to write that a pattern goes up to a "H" cup when it was actually only a UK FF, for example.

If index sizing is too complicated/etc I am happy to make adjustments to it based on feedback, but I am not sure if a better option exists regardless.

In general if you have anything to add/critique, or even a vague suggestion of stuff you would like to see added to the wiki, please let me know! This current draft was done on my own while pulling info from a looooot of different sources, and as such may not be overly cohesive. There is still a lot left to do!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 8h ago

Question/Advice Needed Help me find a pattern with shaping but no closures

3 Upvotes

I haven’t had luck finding something like this but I’m hoping someone may have.

My ideal bra would have no closures, so more like a sports bra, but I would like shaped cups instead of the inserts those types of ready to wear bras usually have. Any suggestions would be appreciated!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 4h ago

Question/Advice Needed Looking for fabric

1 Upvotes

Hi all, I am new to sewing but realized that if I ever want to wear a comfortable underwire bra that fits, I will need to make it myself.

I am totally in love with the texture and feel of the fabric on the Wacoal Future Foundations T-shirt bras from their b.tempted line. Unfortunately, however, they do not carry my size and I have never found another bra that can compare to the comfortable feeling of that fabric.

I was wondering if anyone knew of a similar fabric I could source from bra builders or another similar website.

Thanks so much!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 2d ago

FO (Finished Object) What makes the Orion wireless pattern different?

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212 Upvotes

The Orion is coming out on the 2nd of September for 26-44 DD-K (UK), and after a lot of work on it I realised I had to make some changes to get the best fit for everyone that I could.

Firstly - it's a wireless bra that's intended to give the lift and roundness of a wired bra, and without uniboob. To do this it's got a split upper cup with extra fullness added to that upper seam, which you can see gives a nice rounded shape to the breast. I also added some breast compresison, so this bra is designed to have a floating gore to give more lift but still two separate breasts under clothes

More excitingly, the Orion has a projection-based grading method. So each cup letter- DD, E, F etc all the way to K is shaped differently, with the larger cup letters more projected than the smaller ones. This means that you can use sister sizing to get a closer fit. Wearing a 32HH but it's too projected? Try a 34H or a 36GG cup and cradle

I also realised during testing just how much fabric matters when making a wireless bra. Even stable fabrics with extra stabilising added was stretching more than accounted for in the pattern. Almost all of my testers had to adjust for stretch in the neckline and in the cradle by taking darts from their pattern pieces - this is a lot of work so I developed AutoNeckline, AutoCradle and AutoWing to make the relevant calculations and stretch adjustments for you, so you just measure the bra when worn, enter your size, and you get an adjusted pattern piece which should hopefully make fitting much faster. Free lifetime access to this software with your purchase.

I'd love to answer any questions you have about this pattern or about fitting wireless bras in general! I also have more tester pics coming out very soon on my instagram/website.

~ Posted with mod approval ~


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 2d ago

Question/Advice Needed Pattern for more depth in lower cup

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18 Upvotes

My store-bought bras and homemade bras share the same issue: space between the bottom of the breasts and the underwire. I have measured myself with the ABTF calculator, experimented with a variety of underwire sizes and band sizes and am pretty confident that I have the issue in the illustration that my breasts are full at the bottom and are pushing the bras down.

Does anyone have recommendations for bra patterns with more lower cup depth?

Thanks!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 1d ago

Question/Advice Needed Advice on repair of bra lining

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2 Upvotes

bonds wire free tshirt bra Initially I was adjusting the band (sensory autism, it takes time to get used to new clothing) which damaged the lining.

I did hand stitch the lining back together but it’s unraveled further.i think I’ll have to patch it
Can I get away with using cotton or satin to patch over it. I have a ton of fabric in my stash.
My plan is to trace the triangle shape, place it over the torn lining, and sew where OG was (under bra and band) by hand so it will be invisible.
Any advice would be appreciated


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 2d ago

Question/Advice Needed pattern drafting unusual sizes?

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13 Upvotes

according to elizabeth valentine im a 32Z, and i don't think anything i've found thus far is all that relevant when you can't alter an existing pattern in a similar size range, which i have yet to find. even the porcelynn bra pattern drafting book makes me nervous that it's a bit out of that scope/might need a different structure than is offered. i tried the duct tape method to make pattern pieces but i wonder if anyone has advice on this, here is the tape before labeling or cutting, it did come apart near the bottom but i reattached it before labeling, cutting, or transferring to paper


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 2d ago

Question/Advice Needed Will this pattern work if I use a straight stitch sewing machine?

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10 Upvotes

The pattern instructions state that I would need a zigzag stitch sewing machine but I only have a straight stitch sewing machine so I was wondering if it would work if I just my straight stitch machine? Or will it ruin the pattern? I'm new to sewing and I have only mended clothes before on my machine. I've never sewn an actual piece of clothing so it would be my first sewing project.


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 4d ago

Question/Advice Needed Can I convert back clasp to the front?

1 Upvotes

My arm is injured and I can't get a back clasp bra on. I would like to convert a couple to front clasp.

I have hardware from older worn out bras and am an advanced seamstress, sewing won't be an issue.

Are there any tips or advice you would give so I don't screw up the actual physics of the support?


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 5d ago

Question/Advice Needed Bustier/Corset Tailoring Ham

6 Upvotes

Hi, that may not be the correct name, but I'm looking for something to iron a bustier/corset on while I'm sewing it. (I keep getting Spanish hams in my search)

I found a few DYI online and also some on Etsy, but I haven't been successful with DYI stuff that I've made in the past and it's super expensive on Etsy (at least the ones I found).

I managed to find an inexpensive bust ham online for 19 euros, but not one for a corset. So, does anyone know where I could find one for less than 75 euros? Or, am I using an incorrect name? Or, do I not actually need one and could use the bust ham and a sleeve roll?

Thanks in advance!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 6d ago

Question/Advice Needed Noob questions

1 Upvotes

I've been collecting resource books for sewing about everything. I'm currently looking for books on bra/ underwear making and I really have no clue what to be looking for. I would like for them to include drafting and fitting. I'm just looking for basic pieces, sports bras etc.


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 8d ago

Question/Advice Needed Convert straight straps to crossover?

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9 Upvotes

Hello! I hope it's OK for me to post this here.

I don't sew, so I'm looking for someone who can make my straight-strap bras into crossovers.

I recently discovered that the Ewa Michalak PLM bras, worn with the straps crossed in the back, are much more comfortable than my other bras. Unfortunately, I have only 2 PLMS, and I have a bunch of BMs and other styles that I can't stand anymore! They need longer straps and clips at the front so I can attach them properly.

Does anyone provide this service? I'm happy to pay to make my bras wearable again.

Photos attached of my PLM's clips-in-front.

Thank you!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 10d ago

Question/Advice Needed Trying to design a bra for my mom who can’t wear a traditional bra due to cancer.

20 Upvotes

Hello everyone!

I’m struggling creating a bra for my mom to fit her needs. She wears a 36J usually. She has a tumor on her liver and wearing a traditional bra hurts her because the band puts pressure on it. Just the weight of her bare breast without a bra hurts the tumor area too.

I created her a design that only crossed around her neck (halter top) and that didn’t work out either due to her neck weakness and not being able to hold her head up for long.

Does anyone have any ideas to help?


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 9d ago

Resource Hidden cups in corsets

4 Upvotes

Hi everyone! I'm looking for some textbooks on different ways to add hidden cups to corset. Can someone help me out please? Thank you!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 10d ago

Question/Advice Needed Sport bra pattern recommendations

2 Upvotes

I made the Greenstyle Delphi sports bra recently, with the plain/solid back. I like the result, it's a solid basic sports bra shape that I really enjoy, with the option for a fun back detail.

What I don't like, and maybe I didn't read/understand the instructions fully, is the raw edges of the waistband are exposed. I don't like how it feels it looks. The pattern includes a lining, so I'm also a little confused why the raw edges aren't sandwiched between the lining and outside layers.

I have 2 questions. 1, Has anyone made this pattern too and can confirm if the raw edges are intended? And 2, any recommendations for a similar sports bra pattern that encloses the raw edges?


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 12d ago

Question/Advice Needed Tulle Lace Help/Ideas

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20 Upvotes

Hey there! I’m digging into a backlog of bra kits and pulled out a lovely mauvey-pink kit with this tulle lace. I’ve made a lot of bras, but I’ve never used a lace that didn’t have some sort of scalloped edge. How would you make use of this pretty stuff? I’ve got matching micro duoplex for my cup fabric.

My go to pattern is a pretty heavily modified Orange Lingerie Marlborough Bra with a split bottom cup. I love a power bar and usually favor a full band with a leotard back, but I have the skillz to rearrange my cup/band pieces if I need to in order to do this lace justice


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 14d ago

Meta The difference in fitting correctly vs "boob hat"

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165 Upvotes

I have made four bras and several dozen cup toiles in the past year, but it was only this week that I learned a little more about how bra patterning works. Specifically that the horizontal diameter of the cup when laid flat corresponds to the bust hemisphere horizontal measure.

With that information now in hand I present to you the cup of the bra I was trying to make fit 8 years ago, along with a cup I'm using right now.

The itty bitty cup in the center was 8 years ago. It is exactly the size that the pattern told me to make based on my measurements, with adjustments made to decrease projection, because no matter how hard I tried, I could not fill out the apex of the cup unaltered.

Yes, it was a "boob hat." The orange-in-a-glass effect.

Clearly most of my breast was not even remotely in the cup. Granted, the current cup is extra-tall (intentionally), and the strap area is janky because this is a prototype that I haven't even decided how to sew yet. but look at the side-to-side! There is no way both of those cups will fit the same breast. Even the bottom cup depth is drastically different between these cups. The red one definitely fits, and, surprise surprise, the pink and blue one still doesn't.


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 13d ago

Question/Advice Needed Double masectomy

8 Upvotes

Hi all I had a double masectomy and I have been having trouble trying to find bras that hold my inserts well I find most just allow them to fall and move around I am a rock climber and need something that will put up with the impact of climbing falls ive tried downsizing bras and and other things but have found nothing really works too well and advice would be greatly appreciated :)


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 15d ago

Question/Advice Needed Encapsulating sports bra pattern?

12 Upvotes

I'm looking for a good encapsulating sports bra pattern. I'm a 30E or so, but I've never found pattern sizing instructions that actually work for me, so I kind of just have to start there and move in whatever direction is warranted.

I really like sports bras that have actual cup shapes built in, but want zero underwire in this, as it'll be for sleeping/lounging. I always thought I was pretty flat, so I don't want to be just compressing it all away, and I've had some tenderness lately, so I don't want to squish it.

Thanks!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 17d ago

Question/Advice Needed Supply Q: Plastic swimwear clips/bar closures...in colors

7 Upvotes

For convertible bra straps, I noticed a couple of my production bras have plastic swimsuit clips in lieu of metal g-hooks. I would love to use these in the bras I'm making but would like to match the colorway. I'm having such a hard time finding these! They seem to only come in clear, black, and white.

I have found only one or two listings on eBay and there is no size variety. I feel like I've run out of search terms.

Does anyone know from where to source these?

pics for reference


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 19d ago

Question/Advice Needed Alternative underwire materials?

11 Upvotes

I was browsing the ai slop that is Pinterest today and saw the most gorgeous lingerie set with a long line bra that I am desperate to see on my body but that brand is NOT made for my 30L Polish bra needing boobs. Because my roots are so narrow it’s been hard sourcing underwire and it got me thinking of alternative materials. Like could I use something like a stiff foam cut into shape? Victoria secret used to make this bra with a jelly underwire? I know people use zip ties for corset boning. But wouldn’t it be rad if underwire was soft and plushy? Since finding my holy grail bra I don’t really deal with underwire PAIN really. But a hard wire on the ribs all day isn’t stellar you know?

ETA: I’m really just trying to play around and experiment. I understand a softer material might not provide support in the way certain styles might need. I’m not trying to replace every bra I own with some alternative. Just trying to think outside of the box. Innovation and growth doesn’t happen if you always do the same thing every time.


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 21d ago

Question/Advice Needed Round 2 of make ABTF: pattern/ sizing recs

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86 Upvotes

My measurements are (in inches):
LU: 31
SU: 30
TU: 29
SB: 39
LeaningB: 42.5
LyingB: 39.6

Please note I have a rib flare which is why my ribs look like that.

This is the Casherette Willowdale bra in a size US 30H. This time I printed out the correct size and remembered to add the stretch lace for the upper cup. The red underwire marks are from my usual EM bras I wear daily and are exactly why I am trying to make my own. All of the Ewa Michalak bras I have tried are too wide in the wires and end up sliding down despite trying multiple sizes. Sizing down cause quad boobs. Now for this drafted bra I made:

ETA: I also wanted to mention how much better it is to have the straps narrow set. You can see the friction/ hyperpigmentation marks from my previous bras which cut into my armpit.

The band is very supportive and for the first time I don’t have to rely on the straps. They are very loose here and no digging in from the straps. This is another major issue I have with bought bras.

I used the Porcelynne Vertical heavy gauge underwire in size 44 but I am wondering if I should find ones that are even narrower?

I’m not sure if the cups are slightly off and if it’s the size or the shape? Or am I just being too picky? Also, the seams seem to cut in. But I only used the liner for this so I assume the main fabric would just hide this if I had added it?

I am tall, 181cm with a long torso but I am unsure if the band should be sitting this low, or is it okay? This happens even with looser bands due to the shape of my back (upside down triangle, the band slides downward towards my waist).

I would greatly appreciate any pointers on what my next steps should be :)


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 23d ago

FO (Finished Object) Black Beauty Fitting Advice

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35 Upvotes

First bra I've ever made, Black Beauty size 30FF (measurements; underbust 30 1/2 inches, bust 38 inches)

While this is more comfortable than most commercial bras i've tried, Im finding a lot of fit issues, especially in the band.

The power bar is digging into the cup, which should be a relatively easy slash-and-spread fix. My bigger concern is the gaping at the underarm area of the cups (seen best in the last pictures, a nice awkward overhead shot of my bust aka, my POV when looking down). Not sure the best way to attack this while still having the correct shape/fit of the cups

The band seems like an all around mess. It feels comfortably snug for the most part, but keeps sliding down throughout the day when wearing. I do feel it digging in significantly and leaving red marks in my skin right around the side seam, so i know that if I were to go any smaller in size it would be uncomfortable. The side seam is also pulling forward as shown in the pictures. So the band (to me) feels simultaneously too big, as it keeps sliding down, and too tight, as it digs in and leaves marks at the side.

The band elastic along the bottom edge at the cradle constantly curls up towards my body. I have been wearing this bra for a couple days now as a test drive and the elastic has now conveniently been permanently shaped into this weird curl position (as seen in the second to last picture)

The place the band feels the most comfortable is along the back, however here I get a bunch of weird sagging of the fabric, which I'm not a fan of. In these pictures I had just put the bra on, and pulled up the band to be perpendicular to the floor, and had done my best to try and smooth out the "sagging" fabric along the band, clearly with no luck. It looks like my skin/back fat (yum) is pushing the band fabric down in some areas.

I should note, that for every commercial bra i've ever had, I've always had to tighten the straps all the way right out of the gate in order to wear it. If I don't, they are super loose and floppy. For this bra I deliberately made the straps shorter from the start, so I wouldn't have to do that.
I'm not sure if this strap issue means that the distance between my apex point and my shoulders is just much shorter than average, but I was wondering if it may be contributing to my other fit issues with the band.
(The straps are the main win of this bra, as their length and position has successfully kept them from sliding off).

In short, I need looots of advice on how to deal with the band fitting all around, as well as advice on how to adjust the cup gaping issue at the underarm.