Somebody help me.

It has a weak start, and when I ride it 15-20 minutes in, it starves for fuel then eventually dies. I have to use the choke in order for it to start back up and run. The vacuum on the petcock works, it’s flowing fuel from the tank. My next guess is I need to take apart the carbs but if I can avoid that I will. Somebody have any ideas? Once that’s fixed it’ll run perfectly.

Kz550f 1983 bike bought it and had to replace battery was able to start it but it was having a fuel delivery issue (wouldn't idle with enough power) so I replaced the broken petcock and now when I turn the keys fuel and gas light come on for a second and array goes dark, no neutral light and no starter. Headlights and signals are working just fine voltage is fine too. Im assuming I knocked a cable loose somehow? Bike was also in the rain in between starts so that could have something to do with it?

07 yamaha r1. San diego CA. Bike was overheating on my way to school. Got home and saw some dried coolant on the side of my bike. Took the faring off and saw this bubbling. Also my radiator was a quarterish empty.

Are these perforations on my hose normal? Why is it bubbling out? Could there be other issues?

Thanks in advance!

This is a photo of my Rebel 1100, below the under-saddle compartment/battery cover.

Things that are wired to the battery in addition to standard wiring:

1. Relay board with 4 relayed outputs
2. Battery tender
3. Front aux lights (power wired to battery, trigger wired to relay board). They come with 15A breaker from factory so I decided to wire them directly.

Plugged into the relay board (20A total capacity)

1. Blind spot monitor
2. Trigger for front aux lights
3. Admore brake light
4. TBD - most likely a separate GPS/phone charger.

How can I tidy this up?

I thought about trimming excess wire lengths from wherever I can, so there will be less slack, but most of these things also come with their own control boxes, like aux lights and blind spot monitor which take extra space

I also thought about adding an unswitched distro board to reduce stacking on battery terminal. But then again it’s one more box that I’ll have to fit somewhere.

Thoughts?

Hi, I recently cleaned the lenses of my gauge cluster with something that was apparently more aggressive than I thought. Now they are cloudy and even have some "cracks" in the plastic lenses (top left part in the image) on both sides. As such, I want to try to replace them somehow if I can find a new cover/lenses. However, from the manual I'm not sure what is needed. Do I need to disassemble the entire gauge cluster to remove the screws in the back which may or may not hold the lens part? Or is that simply "clicked" on and can I just pry it open? This is about a Suzuki gsf650 from 2010, but it's not the "new" one, more like the 2008 model (K7?)

So I have a 2003 Honda shadow spirit 750 and I went to start it one morning and I got a single click it was starting fine the day before. I’ve now replaced the battery, starter, starter relay solenoid and the starter motor cable (made cable myself)and I’m still continuing to get a single click I bought a multi meter and when I put the meter on the battery it reads 12v but when I turn it on and attempt to start it drops the voltage down to 2v I tried using a battery charger while attempting to start the bike but it just continues to drop down to 2v a friend of mine thinks it could possibly be a issue with the generator he’s coming tomorrow to check it out. If y’all have any ideas or tips on what could resolve my issue it would be great appreciate

Out on the bike a fair way from home and spotted this split/slice in the tyre. Is this worth riding home on or an RAC job? Can't tell exactly how deep but around 6mm running diagonally into the tyre. TIA 🙏

03 CBR 600rr

I have a 200cc Honda dual sport. It uses the CG style pushrod engine.

My oil pump is constantly meshed in with my clutch basket gear and the sump gear.

I installed taller gearing, and while I had a few normal temp rides at highway speeds, last time around my engine overheated.

While this may be a coincidence, I'd like to make sure that I can figure out what went wrong. There were nicks in 3 out of 5 of the stator wires as they exit the cover via the rubber plug. I could see bare copper, as if someone began to strip insulation and aborted the mission...My THEORY is, these nicks intermittently arced onto the case, creating high resistance and the stator itself overheated my engine through contact with the oil.

But I also know that my oil pump being meshed means that if I were to have traveled at low RPM, my topend could have been starved for oil and overheated. The hottest spot on the engine WAS the stator cover for a fact. Quite noticeably.

And taller gearing can generate more heat in the gearbox bc of the lower RPMs moving less oil while the engine lugs.

Can anyone help me confirm or disprove my theory? Did the stator wires likely cause the overheat? Or was it starvation or excess heat from the tall gearing?

This is a 1995 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500

Looking for some help in diagnosing why this cable/connection is burning, like it actively smokes when the bike is running.

The cable runs from the crank case to the connection in the photo, this is right by the battery, I'm pretty sure it runs to the stator.

Aside from replacing what do I even do to test? Use a multimeter I figure, but where?

Also, is this a coincidence that my headlights stopped working shortly before this started burning?

And one last thing - shouldn't a fuse blow before this happens? Isn't that what they're for? All my fuses are good.

Thanks

Can provide more pics if needed.

Pic is of the temp sender I am contemplating purchasing.

If I used something like this inline with my oil cooler, would I prefer this before the cooler or after the cooler?

Why?

Also, I have an inline oil filter -- same question regarding it. Thanks.

2006 Vespa lx50

Was on the way back from work, motorbike overheated and coolant spilled, stopped the engine and made way to service.

Mechanic sent me this video and told me that head gasket is the issue. He changed it, found coolant in oil, reassembled the engine and called me to get it back. After 10-15 mins riding, overheat engine again, spilled a bit of coolant..

Called the service they want me to bring it back, he mentioned something about a valve in the cooling system? not sure whats that about. He said he tested the motorbike quite a bit before he gave it to me, and based on the odo it was around 30km difference.

I'm a bit lost. Its a nice bike but the issues are killing me, every 2 or months back into service.

Have you experienced this before?

Afterward I checked the coolant, level was OK, i figured maybe air in the system and removed the radiator cap and ran the engine until it reached termostat open emperature. When accelerating there was no change in the water level inside the radiator, but when returning to idle sometimes it splashed a bit out and the level rose momentarily.

Bought my bike recently and came with extra parts and this was one of them I believe it’s to my exhaust but where exactly and how are unknown any help would be appreciated tia

Hi everyone, I need some help with my Yamaha DT 50 LC.

Bike information:

- Make: Yamaha

- Model: DT 50 LC

- Year: 1992

- Engine: 50cc 2-stroke

The bike was already not starting before I took the engine apart. I then decided to completely disassemble the engine to clean and check everything, and I have now put it back together, but it still won't start.

Here is what I have checked so far:

- The flywheel/magneto turns normally when I use the kickstarter.

- The spark plug has a strong spark and sparks every time I kick.

- I can feel air/compression coming out of the spark plug hole when I kick.

- Fuel is reaching the carburetor. When I loosen the drain screw, fuel comes out.

- I also tried putting a small amount of premixed fuel (petrol + 2-stroke oil) through the intake, but the engine still doesn't even try to fire.

- The spark plug stays completely dry after several attempts.

- The engine doesn't give any real sign of starting.

- The carburetor has been cleaned.

- The reed valve has been checked.

- The engine was completely disassembled and cleaned before being reassembled.

One thing that seems strange is that even after putting a small amount of premixed fuel directly into the intake, the engine still does not even try to start.

Since the bike already didn't start before I took the engine apart, I'm not sure where the original problem is.

Could the problem be the carburetor, reed valves, compression, ignition timing, flywheel/woodruff key, or something else?

What would you recommend checking next?

I have attached photos of the engine, carburetor and flywheel/magneto..

Thanks!

Woke up to a flat tyre this morning as I was leaving for work, managed to put air in and I have a plug kit in my topbox. I have done it before after removing a screw. Would this be pluggable? Brand new tyre too!

Triumph Sprint ST 1050. 2007.

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some help diagnosing an issue with my 2021 Yamaha Tracer 7 (CP2) with around 24,000 km / 15,000 miles.

Recently the bike has started behaving differently at idle.

Symptoms:
Idle has become noticeably less smooth/steady than before.
The bike occasionally stalls while idling.
It seems to happen more often when the engine is cold, although the idle doesn’t feel completely smooth when warm either.
The check engine light has now also come on.
Every time I start the bike, whether the engine is completely cold or already warm, the RPM briefly shoots up to around 3,000–4,000 rpm before dropping back down.
Once running and riding, the bike generally seems to run much better than it does at idle.
The battery also seems to drain fairly quickly if I leave the ignition switched on without the engine running.

I have checked the battery/charging system and the numbers seem healthy:
Engine off: around 12.6 V
During starting: around 11.0 V
At 4–5k rpm: around 14.0 V

So I don’t currently think the charging system is the main problem.

The bike has around 24,000 km on it. I’m wondering if this could be related to:
Idle Speed Control / ISC valve
Dirty throttle bodies
Throttle body synchronization
Vacuum/intake leak
MAP/TPS or another sensor
Spark plugs/coils
Injector/fueling issue

The high 3–4k RPM flare on every startup, including with a warm engine, combined with the unstable idle and occasional stalling, makes me particularly suspicious of the idle control/throttle body system.

I’m going to read the stored fault code before clearing anything.

Has anyone with a 2021+ MT-07 / Tracer 7 / CP2 experienced something similar?
What ended up being the cause?
And are there any specific hoses, sensors, throttle body/ISC components or common failure points you would recommend checking first?
Thanks!

Hi guys so I was looking on the forum and saw people that were having problem when the bike went to 6.5k rpms the Benelli would gag and not develop so I bought a after market piece and installed it placed everything like it was before but after replacing it and place the circuit on the fuel pump stoped working and I don’t why it’s happening .
Everything is in place at least I think my first opinion is that the vaccum from the maps tube is not correctly placed
Can anyone help me with this

It’s a benelli leoncino 500 from 2018
Sorry my bad English

Bought recently and I’ve been riding the heck of it. Speedometer stopped working and I tried plugging it back in but it doesn’t work lol. Wondering if I can just buy a new wire?
Also it has a bubble going on when I start it. Previous owner said it’s from the exhaust so I’m wondering if you can point me to the right direction? Thinking of welding it

Trying to put a new top end in my bike the pictures look a lot worse maybe it is that bad is this cam cap reusable? I know the cylinder head and cam cap are line bored at the same time so you can’t buy replacement unless you get one from a scrap bike can I use a Dremel and lightly clean this up or is it not worth it putting a new top end in it and just buying a whole new cylinder head please help me!

Hello, im not sure if these pictures are good enough, but it looks like the bolts holding on the exhaust pipe are loose and rusty. The bike runs fine right now but will this become a problem in the future?