Just got a 2006 rx8 manual trans. Needs a bit of TLC but overall pretty decent condition. Any dos and don’ts to these cars? Never had a rotary before. 62k on it. Needs plugs, probably coil packs and an o2 sensor.

Being 6’6 is a little challenging but overall a fun car to drive 🤣

What do you think of my rebuild and my bridgeport? Unfortunately, I drilled a little off-center at an angle without realizing it, with the support above...

What is anyone's opinion on trying to sell a REAL project RX8 these days? I got attached to mine, and now it's been sitting forever, and I just need to finally get rid of it. Thinking of donating, but wondered if anyone had any ideas of worth and where to sell it? Thanks

I’m looking to get into an rx-8, knowing the risk these carry with them should probably sway me away but they are such nice machines. The seller i’m speaking to sent me this video of a startup, I have no clue what a healthy rotary is supposed to sound like so any help here would be appreciated. I’m hoping it’s not past its drivable stage yet lmao

Looking for the clutch kit for a 5 speed manual trans, I found the kit for the 6 speed but I've heard that the measurements are different, I threw a throw out bearing and figured if I'm in there I might as well swap the whole thing

Back again with another post for y’all. Earlier last week, I went ahead and removed the UIM in preparation for the Atkins seals to arrive today, and you can tell just how disintegrated the O-ring was for the oil filler neck. The other seals were alright-looking to me, but I decided to replace them all since I already bought them and had the UIM off already. I attached some photos of the old ring and the new rings in comparison.

After attaching the UIM back where it goes and making sure to plug in each harness and hose to its proper location, and performing a smoke test to make sure that I had a proper vacuum, everything was looking perfect.

I had started the engine, which took a second or two longer than I wished, and she popped right up and idled funny for a while, which you can see in the video. After letting her sit for 15–30 minutes, the idle improved and was steady, but now I have three error codes popping up (P0037, P2259, P0661), two of the error codes being related to the power harness attached to the UIM and one being an exhaust O2 error.

After getting these codes, I made sure the EGI COMP1 fuse and fuse socket were in proper working order. I hate to believe these errors would be due to some fault of mine, crimping or pulling a wire from the harness, but I have no other ideas of what it could’ve been.

After fixing the vacuum leaks and doing more diagnostics, I also figured the rough and shaking idle might be due to a cracked engine mount on the passenger side after doing some research on the issue on this subreddit and the RX8Club website due to the car vibrating while in D/R but not P/N. I’ll have to do more digging and see what I can find on it. I figured the next step will be putting on the upgraded starter and seeing if that fixes the hot start issue, then working on getting a bonded title and MVCPA inspection due to the vehicle being unregistered currently and the last registration being from out of state. I almost forgot to add that the AC also doesn't work which makes working on it in this Texas heat even worse than it already is.

Fixed Problems:

• Vacuum Leak
• Rough Idle (blaming engine mounts for vibration now)
• Dies while idle at operating temp

Current Problems:

• New Error Codes
• No Hot Start
• No AC

Does anyone know where this sound could be coming from? It's quite worrying, I think.
The sound is coming from the exhaust in a strange way.

If you had a choice between an R3 and a shinka, which would you choose for occasional track days. I’m a beginner, and will se to learn to drive first. I plan on going to the track this year, and go about 5 times a year roughly. Would you pick a shinka or an r3? I found one of each, the r3 is fully built minus boost, does 214whp on the dyno, street port and everything. The shinka is stock, wanted to build from scratch. I’m having a hard tim picking. I know there’s some differences in the chassis and everything, but I’m curious what you think based on the info. I really love the copper red mica ain’t with the tan interior, but the R3 looks so damn nice and it’s fully modded. I would just need to buy wheels tires and some aero. They would cost roughly the same to get to almost equal ends (no street per on the shinka)

Hello my fellow european RX8 owners, do you know any website where I can buy oil injectors and not have them sent from US or Japan? I know Amayama but I’d have to wait a month for them to arrive. If you have any tips please lmk.

Thank you

I will be trying to clean mine but I don’t have high hopes of that working. If you have any tips for that, I’d love to hear them. Letting them soak in ATF at the minute.

I am planning to go on a track day with my 2006 6 speed manual car, first owner. I have OBD2 to my phone so some of the vitals I can monitor.

I am making an oil change, put in new air filter, got new tyres, 1yo ventilated discs and new brakes, full premix, starter replaced couple years back, rest is stock.

Does not start well if it is hot, 80k in the never rebuilt engine.

I am using my car to learn the track properly before driving high power track cars that I got for my birthday.

Q1: what extra prep should I do before? Fluids, air, whatever comes in your mind.

Q2: I am ok not to get to the limits of my driving skills and the car, so what should I be aware of during driving?

Throwing code p0171, have checked vaccum leaks, cleaned MAF. My STFT is reading 25% while idling and goes to 21% when I take it to 2500-3000rpm.

I have a 2006 RX8 6M and I want to use it for autocross. I understand that the stock cooling system doesn't hold up well to track type driving and I'm looking for recommendations to upgrade it so I don't damage my car during autocross. Any recommendations on new radiators or other mods to make it cool better?

I've been exploring the internet these days, and looking to upgrade the wheels that would work for occasional track days as well as a daily driver.

I've found the wheels that I like: https://jr-wheels.com/category/jr11

However, I am concerned with the ET. The ones that are available are 18x9.5" with ET30.

I plan to run 245/40/18 tires.

I don't mind rolling the rear fenders, I am worried only about the front, and whether I will have rubbing in corners or some other situation.

The car is lowered, I have coilovers, so I am able to correct it as necessary.

Hello!

I’ve been swapping hoses in my recently bought rx8, and was planning to install a catch can too. That’s when I noticed the previous owner had capped off the pcv hose exit next to the oil cap, and instead the hose runs from the intake to somewhere in the back.

Does anyone have a clue where this hose could be going before i take off the intake manifold?

Referencing https://www.reddit.com/r/RX8/s/g5ZwyGTGog

One rotor was seized so everything got soaked in degreaser and scrubbed. There had to have been water sitting in the bottom of both housings as I found pitting on all 4 steel faces. The iron shown is the worst. The housings also have pitting at the bottom on the edges.

I had fun taking it apart but I'm going to scrap it with the exception of one or maybe both rotors. Of course it might take me a bit so message me if you need any accessories.

Due to a bad ventilator temperature hit maximum and i lost power before I pulled over. I changed the ventilator the next day and I been driving the car for a week and i disnt notice any issues. I took the car back to the service to clean the radiator. When i got my car back I noticed the water in the tank bubbling. It drives smoothly and it doesnt seem to lose power. Temperature stays at the right level. I cant run a compression test as i dont yet have the right tools and there is no workshops in my country that can do a compression test either but Ive noticed a hard turn on which was not the case before cleaning the radiator. Battery is almost dead too which can contribute maybe to the hard turn on. The alternator is also cooked. Im sitting at just 50k kms which is like 30k miles or so. Do you guys think engine is done ? Or can it be sth else there that I might look into ? Bubbling like that and hard turn on seem to me like i need an engine overhaul :/

First post but my 8 started to run rough today and was idling around 750rpm then jumping. Do you think the plugs could be the issue and do you think they're original? About 98k km on the car and they are Japanese ngk plugs.

Hi everyone, I have a 2011 RX8 with 69000 km. I replaced the engine oil, FL22 coolant, water pump, spark plugs, ignition coil, and wiring. After 40-50 km, the engine started with unusually high idle speeds on a cold start. Once the engine warmed up, the RPM stabilized at a constant 0.9 and the yellow engine light came on. What could be the problem?

Hello all I'm am posting here in a desperate attempt to get some help in fixing my EPS.

My rx8 has not had functional power steering since the day I bought it about 4 months ago, and after going through all the tips and fixes under the sun (cleaning connectors, cleaning all grounds, checking the Fuze, checking wires, and even confirming all inputs with an oscilloscope, even getting a new EPS module) no dice.

I Have now gotten to the point where I am jacking into the can bus in hopes of manually waking the EPS and this is where I have started making some progress.

Disconnecting the EPS from the rest of the can bus and spamming a correctly formatted 0x201 code wakes the eps on first ignition about 30% of the time, and gives power steering continuously until the user stops steering for about 2 seconds, when it then ends.

During this time the EPS continually transmits 0x300 with data 80 when assist is off and 00 when its on.

What's really weird is that the pcm already transmits valid 0x201 frames but doesn't wake the eps, and reconnecting the eps to the rest of the bus once it is awake seems to see it disabled.

Additional I have tried adding the 0x200 and 0x202 frames since I read they were important but they have produced no different results yet and the eps refuses to wake without 0x201.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated, especially if someone with a working Powers steering could send me their can bus logs. Thanks in advance.

Update: adding a few 0x212 ABS/DTC messages seems to make the EPS wake more often, and 0x300 00 occasionally changes to 0x300 01. I have no Idea what this mean but it's interesting

Oil change: jack up just the driver side wheel, so the sump drains more oil than if it was level. Oil change interval adapted to my driving style, but anyhow should not exceed 5000 miles because of oil dilution with fuel(it gets bad). I use S2 based oil filters on a s1 because the filter is taller, has more surface area and thus just a little bit less pressure drop; it's the same cost as a S1 sized filter so free real estate. My go to filter is MAN 670/7. It has a $10 tool you can buy which allows you to spin the filter on with a socket, makes the swap a breeze.

Oil qty is 4.75qt which fills the dipstick exactly 1/2, leaving room to notice oil lvls rising(I have a sohn adapter) and to prevent oil reaching the intake.

Also take out spark plugs for swapping with an alternate pair, the used ones go into an oven grease cleaner jug to soak for a week and then I scrub them with a plastic toothbrush. Keeps them clean of carbon deposits. This set then becomes the alternate I use next time.

Since the driver side wheel is off, I also inspect brake pads and rotor, sway bar links, bushings, etc anything within view.

Once every 2 years or 3 oil changes I also do a compression test since I am already there with the spark plugs out.

If ignition coils have over 20k miles I also test each of them on a test bench with a square signal generator to check spark output intensity. At 40k miles I change coils and leads regardless.

Coolant flush every 3 years, trans diff oil every 8-10 engine oil changes.