r/SEGA32X • u/ashbringerer • 2d ago
Getting closer
Learning a lot by 3D printing this because it's been a nightmare. Still printing another top of the shell which is going to take two days. The problems are mostly getting things not to break easily when putting it together, so I make parts thicker which isn't 100% like the Mega Drive 2 dimensions but still works.
A lot of slicer changes I've made to boost quality and reduce time. For example, OrscaSlicer with Wave Overhangs is great at reducing the need for support but does increase print time, but also reduces the need for filament. https://github.com/dennisklappe/OrcaSlicer-WaveOverhangs
I also set the Support Base Pattern Spacing to 2mm from the default 0.2mm which not only drastically reduces the amount of filament but also reduces the time need to print. I also set the Wave overhangs line spacing to 0.25 because the default 0.35 would cause hanging.
The TECBEARS BLACK PLA Classic filament is trash. It needs to be printed at 220C because otherwise the 0.4mm nozzle would clog, and I do recommend 0.4mm. For the price of $10 it was fine for test prints, but not something I'd ever use for a real print. The layer adhesion for this is junk. https://a.co/d/00ye7sUU
The IEMAI Carbon Fiber PETG is fantastic for $18. Makes great prints that hide the layer lines, and the holes I made for the screws will actually be there, unlike TECBEARS. https://a.co/d/0ioA00Ij
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u/aerosolsp 2d ago
How do you plan to do post-print cleanup after you dial in the stl and printing settings?
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u/ashbringerer 2d ago
No idea. I was thinking of sanding it to clean it up.
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u/aerosolsp 2d ago
This is kinda what stopped me from doing this. It'll be very difficult to prime and sand it and make it look really good. But I am eagerly awaiting progress updates!
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u/MoD1982 2d ago
It doesn't look too tricky, unless you're planning on preserving the colour of the shell. Me personally I'd probably go the whole hog with primer, lacquering, and so on. Maybe some wet and dry with careful use could keep the filament colour without reducing it to a scratchy mess?
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u/aerosolsp 2d ago
It's definitely tricky. Think about the matte finish after you've finished sanding it and are painting it. If the surface hasn't been sanded evenly to perfection, you'll be able to tell it was hand painted and not injection-molded.
It's a similar problem to using bondo on car scratches over large areas, and well understood in the 3D printing community. It's easier when something has uniform, continuous curves that don't change direction. Something like this though is definitely tricky. Doable, but it's lots of patience and a deft touch I definitely don't have.
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u/ashbringerer 2d ago
With the right slicer settings and filament, you don't have to do too much work. There's a reason I'm using PETG Carbon Fiber because it makes for a pretty print. One of the reasons I'm printing the top again is because it was done with 0.16 Layer Height, but this time I'm using Variable layer height which was worked out well with other prints. Wet sanding would be first, and then figure out something. I could hit it with filler primer and then paint it, or hit it with a hot air gun which can also make it glossy, but would also melt away some detail. If I printed this with ABS then a bottle cap of acetone sitting in a enclosure would actually make it smooth and glossy. I could always use back to black once I'm done sanding.
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u/Psykoth 2d ago
Looks fantastic. I hope you get to have a lot of fun with the finished project.