Hi, I have a '96 Corolla and I'm having an overheating problem: I drive a few blocks and the temperature gauge shoots up into the red zone. I've already replaced the thermostat and added coolant to the radiator, but it hasn't helped.

Could someone help me out? Thanks.

Hi !

I'm looking into buying a Corolla Hybrid 1,8 touring sports - Found a 2020 with 70.000miles (110.000km) service history is good..

I want a car thats reliable, not expensive mechanical bills and good fuel economy. (I come from a Peugeot 308 with the dreadded puretech engine)

Advice? Just buy?

Kind regards!

Hey, so Im looking forward to getting myself a used C-HR, hybrid non plugin, the 2024 version. I love the exterior and everybody talks wonders of the reliability.

However, they are a bit expensive, so I want to be sure that they are worth the buck. Since they are quite new, its difficult to find them already used. However, Im looking at a 50-60k kilometer range, so I would like to hear what problems might show up up to then, what to ask and what to look forward to.

My other "budget" option is a Kia Xceed 2022 version, GTline (also hybrid). So if you have any experiences with that car aswell, Im all ears!

had my 2014 Corolla for a while now and been getting the itch to buy a new car but in this economy I had to stop myself real quick. so I gave it a little makeover and I’m in love again! Dont mind the pillow lol

Hi all! I recently popped a tire pretty bad and with that some paint scratched off. Since my deductible is around the cost of the repair I wanted to add the paint job onto the same bill. Does Toyota usually bill mechanical repairs and body shop repairs together? Or would they be on separate bills?

The correct answer would be the new v6s not blowing up but that’s obviously not a “small” thing! So, what are minor inconveniences that Toyota could do better on?

Hello everyone, I’m going to buy my first car very soon. A Toyota Corolla Hybrid to be exact, but I’m still researching and looking around. I need a solid car for commuting. What basic tools will I need for basic maintenance. I created a list. Harbor Freight has a sale on icon tools this week for Labor Day and I want to take advance of the sale. I don’t want to have or carry a lot of tools. Just a basic maintenance kit that I can keep inside the trunk ready to use when needed.

1. ⁠ICON 1/2 in. Drive Metric Professional Deep Impact Socket Set, 14-Piece ( tire lug nuts)
   
2. ⁠1/2 In. Drive, 25 In. Professional Breaker Bar With TPR Grip
   
3. ⁠ICON 3/8 in. Drive Metric Professional Deep Socket Set, 12-Piece and 3/8 in. Drive Metric Professional Shallow Socket Set, 12-Piece ( maintenance under the hood)
   
4. ⁠ICON G2 3/8 flex head locking ratchet 14 in.
   
5. ⁠ICON 1/2 in. Drive 40-250 ft. Ib.
   
6. ⁠Professional Split Beam Torque Wrench
   
7. ⁠ICON 3/8 in. Drive Oil Filter Sockets,
   
8. ⁠7-Piece ( Maybe? I’m not sure).

Is this a solid set? Do I need SAE? What else I’m I missing?

I have another list like floor jack, jack stands, and jumper cables. I’m not into cars or know a whole lot so I would appreciate any advice or recommendations. Thank you!

I don't see these often. RHD too. Nice one.

Car: Toyota CH-R 2018 (North America)

Infotainement system: (presumably entune 2.0?)

I made a mistake and im not sure how to fix it.

I used to play some music off a 32 GB fat32 flash drive (16kb clusters) and all was well. Byt wanting to get closer to the 10k songs limit while keeping maximum bitrate (320kbps), i bought a 128 GB key and i formatted it to FAT32 (32kb clusters) using rufus.

It worked fine for a few minutes, then next time i turned on the car the infotainement system started crashing and rebooting in a loop. Ive tried to use my old 32 gb 16kb cluster usbs, but it still crashes. I've even tried the "clear all personal data" setting in an attempt to clear the "cache" or the memory. (Basically try to make the inboard computer forget there ever was a huge 128gb drive inserted. And yet, nothing works. This is limited to usb keys only. Radio, hands free calling, aux and bluetooth remain completely unnaffected and smooth (Provided i dont try to play music off of a key. Then it all starts going to hell again).

Old girl is a 2001. She has been tried and true since 2009 for me. Bought her with 118k miles and she is now is 234k. Power steering needs completely fixed and will be about $1,200. I’m not sure if I should say goodbye or power through for love. Thoughts? I’ve always taken good care of her.

I have tried both 315mhz and 433 MHz key fobs and can't program it. I can successfully get to the programming mode in the car but then when I hold the lock and unlock buttons and then the lock button alone, nothing happens. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers!

Hi all. Need info.

I have a 151 toyota corolla and the amplifier went. My mechanic must open it to find the model and serial number. Must they be coded? Has anyone replaced the standard one for a better model?

For background, I know near nothing about cars. I’m a college student who’s trying to find something cool + relatively reliable + cheap. I’m not really that interested in a project car, just want to not look like an average bum on the road with a decent car.

Found this listing on Facebook marketplace. Worth? This is the description:

$2,800

2003 Toyota Celica GT | Clean Title | 145k Miles
Selling my Toyota Celica GT. Runs and drives great. Engine and automatic transmission are both solid with 145k miles. No check engine light and the car has a clean title.
Pros:
✅ 145k miles
✅ Engine runs strong
✅ Transmission shifts perfectly
✅ No CEL
✅ Clean title
✅ Seats are in good condition
✅ Sunroof
Cons:
• Cosmetic issues around the body
• Light surface rust in a few spots
• A/C doesn’t work
• Headliner is sagging
• Sunroof drain leaks during heavy rain
• Needs a battery (will need a jump if it’s been sitting)
• Paint and headlights could use some love
Overall it’s a dependable car with a healthy drivetrain. Would make a great daily, first car, or project. Selling because I have too many projects.
Message me if you’re interested. No trades. Clean title in hand. OBO

****EDIT: I’ve since found a couple more listings for the Celiac that I’m pretty interested in as well, including a promising 2001 GTS for $2500 (automatic).

Beyond just this listing, could someone let me know if this is a good first car for what I’m looking for?

I was curious if I got any fellow squatches out thete driving the rav4? I noticed Toyotas notoriously hace a pretty low steering wheel even with adjusting the height. Do you find it comfortable or did you bite the bullet and go a size up to the highlander?

Hi all,

I took my bZ in for service as it popped up a charging system malfunction plus the open recall for the ECU - wanted to get that all taken care of.

They called me back a couple hours later and said it will be awhile before I get the car back as theres a wire or of the sort running the length of the car that needs to be replaced and is on backorder with 90 people ahead of me. When I pressed for even a small timeline, I was given anywhere from 2 months to upwards of 8 months.

Toyota is paying for a rental the entire time - but I feel a little upset here. The car has less than 10k miles, and was bought brand new in February. My dealership will not give me the car back as it is unsafe to drive.

The rental I was giving is a very used Nissan sentra, which I will be trying to swap out whenever Hertz can.

My question is: is there anything else I should be doing? Lemon Law in NYS states if its inoperable for 30 days I have a claim, but I would prefer not going down that route if I don't need to.

Also - is this a common thing? This is my first ever new car - or really a my first ever car with less than 50k miles.

Hi everyone,

I’m not experienced with cars and have basically no technical knowledge, so I’d really appreciate some advice.

Car: Toyota Auris, 2011, around 110,000 km I bought it a little over a year ago for around €8,000. It had about 90,000 km when I bought it.

It’s an automatic, but from what I understand it has Toyota’s MMT system, basically a manual gearbox where the clutch/gears are operated automatically.

A few days ago, while driving, the transmission suddenly started switching from D/E to N. It also happened when selecting R: it would go back to N. Basically, it kept dropping into Neutral.

I live in Germany. ADAC checked the car first but couldn’t find anything wrong at the time and said I could drive it to a workshop. I drove it there without any further problems.

Today the workshop called and told me that there is a problem with the clutch and actuator, and that they need to be replaced. They estimated €3,000–€4,000.

Considering I paid €8,000 for the whole car just over a year ago, that sounds like a huge amount to put into it.

I’m definitely going to get a second opinion before doing anything. But I’d really appreciate some advice from people who know these cars/MMT transmissions:

• Has anyone had the same problem with an Auris MMT?
• I’ve read that sometimes actuator problems can be fixed with adjustment/recalibration or cleaning instead of replacing everything. Is that actually true?
• Does €3,000–€4,000 for clutch + actuator sound reasonable?
• How much would you personally be willing to spend repairing a 2011 Auris with 110,000 km?

- If I decide to sell it as-is with this problem, roughly what could it be worth?

- What would be the best way to sell a car like this in Germany ,mobile.de, Kleinanzeigen, wirkaufendeinauto, dealer/export buyer, etc.?

- And finally, does anyone know a trustworthy Toyota/MMT specialist or independent workshop around Bonn/Cologne who could give me a second opinion?

Any advice would be really appreciated. I mainly want to avoid spending €3–4k if there’s a much simpler repair or if putting that much money into the car simply doesn’t make sense.

Thanks!

I drive a 2017 Toyota RAV4 XLE, and for any mechanics or knowledgeable people out there that know a lot about brakes, I was wondering that when you drive forward and your brakes squeal, does that mean it is your front brakes? And if backing up/driving backwards and your brakes squeal if that means it is your rear brakes? Or how does that work?

Or if anyone has any tips/suggestions on how to tell between your front and rear brakes squealing, it would be greatly appreciated because I myself am not mechanically inclined and know nothing about how to tell which brakes need replacing.

Thanks!