Never mind the language. 2 weeks of welding and work (not me) 60% to 70% new metal...

Looks like an affordable mini alternative.

Hello all,

First post in here with a recently bought Triumph Spitfire MK3. 1300cc. 4-speed.

I'm having this issue where on start-up the car will climb slowly to max temperature on the temperature gauge. I'm pretty sure the gauge is in working order, as the fuel gauge also works.

There is coolant in the radiator and the overflow. I've tried changing the thermostat to my defender 200tdi one (not ideal I know) but to the same result.

Does anyone know what tests I should run? Obviously can't flush the radiator with this hose pipe ban, but is there any other things I can do?

Cheers!

Hello, I was hoping to score some labor day weekend sales on suspension bushing. I am currently restroing a few things on my 1974 Triumph TR6. I only casually drive it for fun on the weekends no aggressive driving or racing. Located in central oklahoma.

I am trying to find a happy medium between the inexpensive stock bushing and the expensive superpro bushings. Maybe nylatron bushings perhaps? I also just need the bushing no hardware.

Open to any suggestions and recommendations. Thanks!

Lovely set of Triumphs at the hillclimb today. Which is your favourite?

L’image provient d’une Pub TR7.

Carrying the second chassis number, and hand built before production started, this TR2 is on the road again. There’s a rather ambitious plan ahead for this car. Can she still cut it?

Dinky, spot on,Corgi and new brandy made in china…but Wellmade.

Doing a rebuild and I don’t believe my block and crank to be salvageable or they will cost thousands to machine. I’m in Washington and was wondering if anyone has any leads on a block and crank for her, she’s a 1500.

Here is a selection of Triumphs seen during this year's Monterey Car Week. Pebble Beach, the hyper cars and the multi-million dollar auctions get all the attention, but there are a surprising number of free events where much more affordable, but still amazing, cars are shown. Enjoy.

My TR3 suddenly started making an irregular knocking noise while driving normally under light load. It came on quite suddenly and wasn’t there before.
You can hear the noise pretty clearly in the attached video.
Does anyone have an idea what might be causing this, or what I should check first? Any experience with a similar noise on a TR3 would be greatly appreciated. Pressing the clutch does not alter the sound.

This is a triumph dolomite 1500 ive owned for about a month, not had any issues with it so far but after an hour long journey i pulled into a petrol station, shut off the car, turned it back on and it started stuttering and wouldnt rev very high on acceleration (bearing in mind it was completely fine before i stopped at the petrom station) this was a couple of days ago and it has been doing this ever since, i have a feeling something has gone in the carbs as it sounds like a fuel delivery issue as on full throttle it feels like its spitting fuel into the engine instead of actually normally pumping it in if that makes sense, i just wanted to know if anyone else has had this problem or if its an easy fix or if i need new carbs, it runs a bit better on choke but still not great

Car looks a lot worse than it is 😂 thanks

I was always wanting an windscreen car and I never plan to drive this car with its top up. Realistically though is anyone in the market for the factory glass and soft top? How much would they be worth? (If I get like 400obo total I'd be cool)

I have all good glass and window crank systems work but need a great cleaning, and I'm willing to give the part around the windshield too. The soft top is rough but its there and I'll include it. Im local to the Ft Lauderdale area.

I was wondering about the headrest faring too as that seems interesting especially to hide the roll bar.

Also I have this locked TR2 engine for sale for like $100

Take a MK3 GT6, sprinkle atop a TR4. Magic!

I recently bought a 1972 Triumph Spitfire and managed to drive it back from the seller 100 miles without fault. However, when driving to my parent’s house to show them, I had an issue where I would start losing power.

The first time it happened the engine completely cut out and the oil and ignition light came on the dash, I pulled over and topped up with some oil and it then ran fine for another 10 minutes or so and then the same thing happened, losing power but didn’t cut out this time.

I wasn’t sure how much oil was needed so I had to pull over 4 times to keep topping it up. It ran fine for the remainder of the journey (approx 30 mins) but just wondered if low oil is actually the issue or if there is something else I should be looking at as well? Any help would be appreciated!

This wires goes from the starter solenoid to under my dash, my car starts fine and it has never been plugged in, I can’t find a black and green wire on the diagrams

I just finished tearing down my rear differential on my ‘68 Spitfire. Im clean the case now and there’s this odd plug with an in used cotter pin sticking out of it on the top pass side. I can see the plug in the Haynes manual illustrations but nothing calls this out. My initial guess is that this is the fill hole for the fluid, but nothing actually says that, and I have no clue why there’s an unused cotter pin in it.

any ideas?

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My Dad is the original owner of his 1974 TR6 and still drives the hell out of it. About 20 years ago he gave me some shirts he couldn’t fit into anymore. After losing a bunch of weight myself I can wear them again!