My volt has this service light which makes the cruise control not work. Car seems to be running totally fine and nothing out of the ordinary. Even on the flow screen of the energy section it is indicating that the regen system is indeed working. Any ideas on how to fix or reset this alert? I'd really like to avoid a diagnostic fee if possible.

TL;DR: When I start the car, it turns on but the drivetrain clearly isn't on. A/C doesn't start and it neither the motor nor the engine are running. If I shift out of park, it says "Action needed - Shift to park" and of course won't drive. The check engine light is also now on.

It's a 2017 Volt Premier with 111km miles on it. Should I replace the battery first, or take it straight to the dealer? They want $220 just to diagnose it, so I'm wondering if it's worth $250 on a battery just to try. Has anybody else had this issue?

If it is the BECM, is there any reason that it wouldn't be covered under warranty? The dealer looked for about 30 seconds and didn't see anything for N232432680, but as soon as I said anything about it, he just said he'd have to get it diagnosed first.

The details:

It started when I bought the car in March. I drove it around at first, and it was fine. Then suddenly it did exactly this. I should have backed out right there. But I got it charged up and managed to get home. I knew similar things could happen from the batteries all being depleted for an extended period of time, which was definitely the case. But on my way home that day, it died several times and I ultimately got it towed home. It would go to battery power only, but it would only get me far enough to pull over. I got it most of the way home by shifting back to mountain mode and charging up, until it all just died one time and I couldn't even jump it. I did get the battery tested that day, and it was fine, but I got the dealer to give me $500 off the price in case it needs a new one.

When I got it home, I charged it overnight, and I haven't had a single issue since (6 months) until today. I just went to start, and boom, same thing. I charge it at home, and it's clearly charged.

Why it might be the battery: It doesn't have the typical BECM signs. Mainly, it shows me that the main battery is full and the mileage on it.

It isn't the usual "shift to park" issue: I have no problem with it not believing that it's in park.

Why it might be the BECM: It's a battery issue of some sort, clearly. Even if it isn't the typical symptoms, there's always a chance. And being at 111k, it may be worth it to try and get it replaced before it's too late.

My 2015 cold died ( probably ICE engine sized, don't have complete diagnostic yet) . The car was not in good shape to start with so it does not worth the repairs.

So I brought a 2014 Chevrolet Volt cuz I'm truly in love with this model .

I want to keep the old one for parts but the battery was empty when it died so I suppose it would be better to charge the battery before storing it. The problem is, the OBD2 is full of error message, a can clear them but they come back as soon as I power the car prevent it to charge.

Is there a way I could make a one time bypass of that just to charge the battery once ? I don't want to drive the car or anything, I just don't want the battery to die under my watch.

I'm planning on my next car being a PHEV. People over on r/PHEV have mentioned first gen Volts are fairly reliable and maybe (?) more so than second gens. As these are older cars, finding a low mileage vehicle isn't easy, so I'm curious about cars in the ~100k range. I have read about issues with both the engine and battery coolant levels running low and causing problems. A listing I am looking at is a couple of hours away on a first gen Volt. It mentioned replacing the "coolant level sensor" in the ad. Is this potentially a warning sign of deeper issues with one of those systems? In general, what should I be on the lookout for on a 2013-2015 in the 100-125k range.

FWIW, I'm coming from an 09 Honda Fit that I love, but it is at 200k miles. I'm looking to hopefully transition to a more efficient vehicle that has good reliability (though I don't know if anything could beat how reliable my Fit has been overall).

I went nuts and bought an audi etron 2022 premium plus for 74k miles. Moving up three vehicle classes into a 6,000 pound car will be novel

The catalyst was a check high voltage engine light. Intermittent. I could clear it with an obd2 reader, but wasnt worth the hassle. My car finally hit 60,000 miles after 12 years of ownership. It was a great 12 years experience.

Undecided whether i will trade the volt into carvana for $3,600 or donate it

Same color! Can you imagine?

Hi has anyone had their humidity sensor act up?

My car has the air conditioning come on while the heat is on all the time. I have tried the normal suggestions with no luck.

I am moving on to a full EV from this. I am getting 51k electric currently from this vehicle. The engine had a tune up recently and runs nicely. Only used premium. Has some small dings but is a nice dependable vehicle. Anybody have an idea as to a valuation in Southern Ontario for this?

I never thought I would do this but my friend says he will paint my 2013 187K miles Volt for $1300. This includes door jams if I chose a different color. He is good too so I know I will get a quality paint job. I haven't driven it much lately. My last drive yielded 10.1 kwH.

Since Jan 19 2013 I have only paid for tires, gas, wipers, oil.

I get SHVCS every day since covid and I just use by ODB2 twice per day to clear it.

It just rides so damn good.

I'm thinking I will paint it ride or black.

Couple years ago I already painted the black accents.

For my 2012 Chevy volt, if I want to take it to AutoZone to have the battery checked see if it's still good, do I need to remove the whole bottom off the uncover the whole battery or are these two doors enough for the battery test?

Check out the video.

On a 200 mile trip teaching my highschooler to drive.

I love this Galaxy Tab S10 Ultra.

Samsung Dex is the OS.

It looks factory installed doesn't it?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tNUAr6v4lEbZuEnewFhKHMfZUPmyfRhO/view?usp=drivesdk

https://www.amazon.com/your-orders/pop?orderId=113-1675457-3101013&shipmentId=BxdPy9zvd&lineItemId=jjjoqwhnsrmrpops&packageId=1&asin=B0C9CTSN12&ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_mob_b_pop_4

I know I have three cooling reservoirs but this is the only one that has that piece of metal on it that makes it a little bit difficult to open, why is this one the only one that has that?

I recently bought a used 2019 Chevy volt. I bought it from online which I wouldn’t normally do but it looked pretty good and was a decent price. Once it was delivered it was all good other than the attached photo (and only one key fob). I’m wondering if this damage is anything serious or just cosmetic? Thanks for whatever insight anyone has.

Hello, this is a follow-up to https://www.reddit.com/r/volt/comments/1uupbqj/volt_2018_replaced_becm_recently_and_now_have/

It's been 2 months and the GM Customer Service Rep said they will see if they can do a buyback since the part is still on backorder and they have no visibility as to if and when it will ship. However, she said my car was on the older side and higher mileage around 60K+ miles so not sure about it.

Are buyback offers negotiable? Also they mentioned I might be able to get a GM Loyalty Certificate / Reward points which I guess would be useful if I purchase another Chevy.... Are those negotiable too?

Thanks for any advice or suggestions.

​

2013 186347K miles.

Been sitting for a while.

Last time I drove I got 10.1 kwH.

Best car ever built.

Solid as a rock.

Lifetime 55.3 miles.

Since driving off lot Jan 19 2013 only paid for tires, wipers, gas, and oil changes every 40K miles.

I've got a 2014 with 223k miles on it. I've had it since 2016 with no major issues. Most of the issues I've had I was able to fix myself.

It's being used as an extra vehicle and only driven about once a week.

Recently I went to start it up and it was stuck on the "initializing wait to shift" screen for a bit, then the screen fired up. I can't remember if I got the "ready" light in the corner or not but I tried to switch it into reverse and it wouldn't move. Usually when weird things happen with the car I check the 12v battery. I disconnected it, put it on a trickle charger to 100%, and tested it with a battery tester. Checked out all good.

I put the battery back in and tried to start it up. This time it was stuck in the "initializing wait to shift" screen and then everything turned on, but this time it displayed: Fuel Low (has gas in it), Service Parking Assist, Service Stabilitrak, Service Brake Assist, and Service Power Steering. From what I'm reading this is some kind of service mode.

I have a BlueDriver that I tried to hook up but it wouldn't connect. I'm thinking because the engine wasn't running.

I've been researching and folks with similar issues have found it to be the ECM/ECU. If this was a simple plug and play I could probably do myself but from what I've read this requires programming.

I called the dealership and they quoted me a little over $700 for the part, replacement and programming. I'm going to need a tow but don't have AAA or anything with my insurance or credit cards for towing. The vehicle is tucked back on my property so it would take some maneuvering to get out. I'm assuming that's extra. I estimate maybe $150 - $250 for the tow.

So that's almost $1000 for the repair if it is even the ECU.

Do you think it's worth the repair or should I sell as is? Maybe someone else has had this issue and it was something different. Thanks in advance.

Any experience with this issue?

What should I troubleshoot first?

Heya! My 2018 volt's interior has been melting in the FL sun. Every plastic soft touch surface is sticky. I've tried goo be gone and rubbing alcohol with microfiber cloths (on small spots to test) and it's so sticky it ripped the material off the cloth. It's probably too late at this point but is there anything I can do? I was looking through old reddit posts and saw someone mentioned Chemical Guys products, should I try some of those? Or do I need to get the interior vinyl wrapped or would that eventually melt too?

I bought ACDelco spark plugs 41-124 (GM part 12637197) as specified by the 2019 Owner's Manual and Service Manual.

The same Service Manual specifies the gap as 0.60 - 0.70 mm // 0.024 - 0.028 in.

But... I measured the gap of all four new plugs at 0.085mm +/-0.001.

Both RockAuto and the ACDelco website agree the factory spec for these plugs is 0.90mm // 0.035 - 0.04 in. I'd say these plugs are basically in spec for the factory, but too large per the Volt manual.

Do we think the Service Manual is wrong? Or do I need to gap all four plugs to match it? Then again, everyone also says don't change the gap on iridium plugs.

Thank you!

I have received my order for a used transmission for my volt with the YK8 option. My question is do I need to program the new one or can I swap my tcm and valve body from my old one? It was fine for 302,000 miles but a bearing somewhere internally has let loose and it’s full of confetti and unfortunately it’s not the stator bearing.

Starting to test an inverter for fridge and freezer but fell at first fence; the -ve 12V battery connector is a new one to me - uses a tapered nut to tighten onto the battery post. Means that I cannot simply clamp the inverter -ve cable under it. (See pic) How did you chaps do this. I don’t want to monkey with the Volt cable or connector. Am I stuffed?

Its a 2017 Premier. I tried looking up the VIN but it just says “optional it doesent say whether the option for ACC was added.