Hello, I have a 1997 940T, which needs rebuilt. Figured I'd also make it fast, so started collecting parts. Angled outlet 19T, 660cc injectors, IPD turbo camshaft, 3" exhaust, etc...

Also 3" MAF, because I want to retain a "safe" 230whp map from *redblockpowered* on stock ECU for now.

Thing is, I suspect I will be wanting more from it down the line, so the setup is open for the future - custom piggyback ECU, wideband o2 and forged T rods.

Two questions:
What power can I do with these exact parts (+rods for safety) when stock ECU stops being a bottleneck? Someone sometime ago told me ~400 wheel but that's optimistic. AI (yeah, I know) tells me 330 wheel is risking the 19T.
Also - would I need forged pistons to match the rods then? I've heard both people drifting 500hp redblocks on the limiter with stock pistons, and people whos pistons went after simply putting more boost into it. So what is it?

Hi, an idea popped up in my head how would it look like if instead of the big turn signal under the headlights was just a regular trim and the side light was turned into turn signal. Tried to draw it but not the best result. Wondering has anyone done it and has any pictures?

Minus the obvious shocks, springs, sway bars, bushings, etc. what needs reinforcement to handle the power. Im aware the rear subframe is a weak point and plan to box that in. Also planning to use a Ford 8.8, upgraded torque rods, and an upgraded panhard bar.

Are the rear trailing arms usually fine? What about the mounting points to the actual floor. Any risk of those ripping out? For the front I just plan on using a strut tower bar and the ipd lower chassis brace. Anything else I should be worried about/that will need reinforcement?

Essentially, what metal parts will need reinforcing.

I may have found an empty gravel parking lot and as my 1992 Volvo 940 turbo (automatic sedan unfortunately) is the first RWD car I've ever owned I proceeded to whip crazy shitties. The car then just randomly shut off. Checked oil, because I thought maybe the oil pickup tube was choked or smth, because the car wouldn't start. I gave it a jump with a friend's car and started totally normally and it's been fine. So wasn't that. Didn't overheat either. Any ideas?

We purchased 2 Volvo b23 240s they have been sitting for a few years, inspected all fluids and spun the motor by hand and was all okay, dropped a new battery into them and dash lights worked fine, went to crank over and ticked and had no crank, went now have no lights on dash or no signal, why are common faults for Volvos that have been sitting for a while

So I opened the wheel arch covers and looked in the rocker panels in front of the rear wheels. I found rust on the inside of the rocker panels. I guess I have to cut that shit out right away to get it really fixed, right?

So I had a lake of water at my feet in my Volvo 940 IC. Felt holes and found out the middle one is leaking water. Any idea what these holes were for and if I can just close them (they meant to be closed). Especially the middle one ( that’s leaking) looks weird. As if someone drilled a hole next to it.

I closed is last night and the car was dry. Just close it again and leave it?

Does anyone know where this vacuum hose connects too? Runs under the manifold and connects to where I’ve highlighted

Hi,

I've owned this car for 12 years. 250 000 Km.

I used it often the first 5-6 years (ran flawlessly), then it stayed in my father's backyard for 6 years.
He occasionnaly started it, but did not use it.

I recently cleaned the car, tried it a bit and decided to bring it where I live (on the other part of Europe) 2000 km away.

One thing that worried me a bit that the car produced more smoke than it used to.
We had it tested and it failed the different pollution tests.
On the other hand, since the time I spent I my father was limited, I didn't have the time to drive the car for very long.

My father brought the car to his mechanics. He's gonna change :

• The timing belt
• The silent bloc
• And the different filters
• He's also supposed to check the smoke issue

I'll ride the 2000 km in about a month and I was wondering if there is any part or tool that I should rather take with me and that could save me in case of a failure of the car (I've read somewhere that carrying an alternator belt is a good idea).

Also, is there anything specific to that model that the mechanic should check ?

Thanks a lot for your kind help,
Best :)

i’m currently in the middle of replacing my heater core, and have got to the last section and need to remove the cover for the core, however the screws holding it on are between 5-6mm hex heads

i have a donor dash which had black 7mm hex screws and all images of the process had the same, but mine are brass and smaller!

i think i need a 7/32” socket to remove these, does anyone know why mine is different?

for reference my car is a 1998 940 celebration edition

My 740 turbo died again and I'm getting tired of it. I've replaced the coil, plug wires, distributor/hall sensor, both fuel pumps, and numerous fuel/vacuum lines. I've also rewired a lot of the harness.

Ran absolutely great on the way home. Let it idle in front of my house for about 5 minutes, it started idling rough bouncing from 800-1200 RPM, then it eventually died. Definitely smells like I have fuel and I jumped the hall sensor to see if I get spark at the coil and I definitely do. No fuel in the FPR, so that seems intact, and I've checked if the engine is flooded by pulling the FP fuse, gas pedal all the way done, and nothing. Verified timing belt is intact as well.

I have yet to verify spark at the plug, I'm thinking I don't have that, but any ideas on what the fuck could be wrong now? After swapping those ignition components, I got maybe 50 miles out of her before she died again.

I've had some nightmare projects but this car keeps defeating left and right. I got a rebuilt 88 RX7 and my 69 Rolls Royce running perfectly before I get this thing to barely survive a 2 hour round trip.

Hello! This is my, new to me, ‘87 740 turbo with 83000 miles. It has some quirks like the cruise control not working, powered antenna not working, horn only working when i push the pin in the steering wheel while honking, and a melted fuse 16 (ac/blower)

From my research, it seems that I might need to replace at least some of the wiring harness under the dash. I looked on prancingmoose, but I couldn’t find a dash harness! Does anyone know where I can find a new one and where I can find resources to help the process? Thanks!!

Hi all,

I've had my 940 Wentworth up for sale now as a project for a fair bit, and I don't seem to have any interest? The last Brick I sold went really quick, has the market died or do people just not want to buy a project anymore?

Anyway, if anyone is interested, I have a 940 Wentworth Project for sale (had a lot of work done) UK, Derbyshire haha.

Thanks.

Hello, I never thought I’d be a guy with a parts car. I have a 92 740 non turbo. Green. And there was a turbo 93 940 like 20 minutes away that was going for only $250. No engine or trans. But I’ve been trying to get a second set of wheels for winter tires. So the wheels alone made it worth it for me. Now I just have this brick in my back yard.

So anyways. What’s value on these things? Seats are cracked. But interior seems fine. Anyone need anything from it?

Hi everyone,

It's been a few months since I bought this beautiful 940, she's running perfectly fine but I wanted to buy some spares I'd carry in the trunk for eventual roadside repairs. What do you recommend having on hand ?

From what I read, this should be a decent list of spares to carry :

- A spare fuel pump relay (3523608)

- An ignition control module (3501921)

- A spare sensor/crankshaft pulse (271949)

- Spare fuses

Is that a good set, overkill, or plain wrong ? Maybe I'm missing some also, so please correct me if needed.

Thanks a lot !

It’s a joy to drive, has the B200ft I believe with the 4 speed slushbox, any advice appreciated as it’s very different to cars I’ve owned previously!

Hey all, I'm towing my '66 122s wagon about 500mi for restoration and would like to do so with a car cover. I'm struggling to find a cover that advertises tow capable. I don't want something that will basically self destruct at 65mph. And suggestions out there? Thanks!

I've owned multiple 900 series over the years and they've all had the common issue where the cassette player will just auto rewind over and over again until spitting out the tape adapter when it's cold. (Cold here means anything below 60°f/15.5c). Usually I have to wait 15-20 minutes for the interior to heat up to a certain point before music will play

My current 940 turbo does this regardless of temperature but that's another story for another time

I've tried cleaning the tape decks, using different adapters, both new and old (yes I know most of the modern ones will essentially be the same internally) to no avail.

They all work otherwise flawlessly aside from the 940s, and I'd like to keep the original head units ideally, so if anyone knows of a proper way to address this such as a different cleaning/maintenance method, or if you've had luck with a certain tape adapter in particular, I'd like to hear it.

Has anyone else had insanely long wait times with yoshifab? Might just be my luck but seems like it takes quite some time to get your order shipped out.

I have owned a 1990 240DL for almost 20 years. And a 740 Turbo (with a rod knock) for 5 years but it was the only Volvo the qualified for Cars for Clunkers, so I turned it in for a $4,500 credit on a 2009 Honda Fit.

What's the difference between those old classic Volvos and my Belgium-made EX30 rear wheel drive?