Finished last night, but wanted to wait til I get some sun to take pictures. Sunlight is really the best lighting. I thought I leave this a clean build bc in the anime/manga Lorenz got a completely new (or refurbished) unit.

The kit does come with their own decals. But most of the decals just say "caution" on them. So I didn't want to have caution decals plastered over everything. The kit also does not come with a guide on where decals are to be placed, so you have to do some research or just go with your imagination. Decals are also clustered very closely on the sheet so you will need an exact knife to get pieces you want.

Overall, this is a pretty ok kit. The end result looks great though.

I put it next to a RG Zaku for scale. I also put glow-in-the-dark stickers in the visor for glow effect. The jewel in the head is not part of the kit, had to buy nail art jewels sticker sheet for that one. I think it turned out ok.

I'm in the middle of planning the parts for kitbashing Trailblazer from "Punishing Gray Raven". Until now I figured the Torso and Arms (HG Gundvolva heavily modified with plaplates) and the Legs (IBO Mass Production MS A). But I came to a stop regarding the head and the red secondary arms. For the head I was thinking the Kotobukiya's interchangable head set (Image 4), but I'm still not entirely sure. And the red arms... I don't know. I have a Body-chan at home, maybe I can use its arms...

P.S. For Moderators: This post is the same I posted on another sub. I wanted to crosspost it from there, but when I was going to select this sub, it said "This sub doesn't allow these posts". I checked the rules of the sub, but I don't think I'm breaking any of them... please tell me if I'm doing something wrong.

Oenbelli (Historically Oenpelli/Gunbalanya)
Northern Territories, Australia

A FD-03 Type 00 Gustav Karl, from the EFFs 6th MS Special Tactics Squadron, “Arnhem Ranas” attacks a storm bunker being used to evacuate and hide Mafty’s 1st Army dissident forces.

Despite local inter Federation political hostilities, Commander Kimberley Heyman was able to leverage the coming Adelaide conference and ongoing incursion by a terror group known as Mafty’s 1st Army, to get several MS’s sent from the nearby Darwin Airbase to support in his, “pacification operation”. While no official footage readily exists, or was ever released to the public of the operation itself, the widely circulated rumors are that the operation quickly devolved into a massacre that could only be described as a herd of mechanical Elephants driven into a sudden stampede. Even with Criminal Police census reports showing fewer than several thousand legal citizens residing within the city, it can be assumed the overall group was much larger, and that the Federation forces couldn’t have wiped them all out in the timespan of the operation. However, due to ongoing environmental catastrophes still afflicting the entire region caused by both the original Sydney colony drop and the overall decline of the Earths entire environment; along with the already natural overbearing ruggedness of the Northern Territories/Arnhem Land region during the wet season; it can be assumed that most of the likely tens of thousands of dissident survivors more than likely met their end not long after due to exposure to all previously aforementioned conditions.

Been having some kit batching ideas using GN-arm and Zeus Silhouette.

But ended up keeping adding new parts, trying different coloring, and then the kit batch project just went wild.

How does it look? Can you identify all the kits used?

Hi everyone!

This is my first kit that I’m hand-brushing, and I’m currently in the process of applying primer.

I’d really appreciate some feedback from anyone with experience, especially with hand-brushing. I also have a few questions:

1. Did I use the right primer? I’m wondering if I may have used the wrong type of paint for priming. I read that Mecha primers are mainly intended for airbrushing.
2. Do I need another coat of primer? I’ve already applied two coats. Does the coverage look sufficient, or should I add another layer?
3. Any recommendations for a gloss top coat? I’ll be applying it by hand, so I’d appreciate recommendations for a gloss top coat that works well with hand brushing. I'm thinking of using Vallejo - Auxiliary - Gloss Polyurethane Varnish [26.650] but if there are better options, I would appreciate the suggestions.

If it makes any difference, the brush that I'm using is Tamiya flat brush no.3 Item 87014.

Thanks in advance for any advice and feedback. This is my first attempt, so I’m hoping to learn from everyone’s experience.

I think I may be stuck on these smaller kits for a while. This was so fun, I used less paint and it was so much faster lol. I hope you enjoy.

Paint list:

Hobby mio-matte and gloss black, dark stainless steel, dark iron.

It’s a little smudged (I assembled without gloves and the paint apparently wasn’t cured) but I can tell it’ll be a fun build

feel like it needs more love 🤣

What an amazing kit, I had a blast with this

I got an airbrush setup and decided to dive in head first. I did a bit of a kitbash using both the B and C packs for the Narrative HG. I also decided to try a bit more customization, making a shield mounted double beam rifle and shield mounted beam sabers.

First repaint. Any tips and helpful advice would greatly be appreciated!! Thanks for looking.

Forgot to post this on this subreddit. This project is now officially complete. The aim of this customizing project was to utilize every customizing skill I have learned (scribing, painting, weathering, and pla plating) to enhance the appearance of a fairly simple kit. While I am unsure if this project fully qualifies me as an advanced builder, I feel that I have passed a significant milestone. I hope to continue to make improvements and make even crazier builds in the future.

I got this today, so I thought I build and paint one to see how it is. Still need to weather and decal.

Here's my thoughts: A lot of the parts are overly complicated. The fit has some issues and will require some work around if you want it to fit flush. The joints can also end up really tight, so if you're painting make sure you mask the joints. The plastic is thick (you can be rough with how you handle this and it won't crack). The instructions can be misleading. This also have some balance issues bc the bottom of the feet only has 1/3 flat surface area. It's segmented into 3 sections, forming a slight arch. So balancing might be an issue if you have a heavy backpack. This is also way smaller than a 1/144 Acguy. But it looks pretty good all put together.

Hand painted on HG msm-03c hy-gogg, to push the natural textures. Thin Matt finishing after the weathering. I am happy with the outcome so far.

Full custom paint on this HI-V has a blast doing the color separation and hand painting all the details

Decided to make the dark pastel lavender purple a more purplish blue instead

I just finished my first fully painted Gunpla and I wanted to know if anyone had any tips for how to prepare for assembly, some of the pieces were extremely tight fits and the whole thing is pretty stiff

I know your supposed to heavily sand parts to keep them from rubbing together but how do you know which pieces are going to give you trouble,

Is this a problem for enamels and laquers? I used a acrylics

I'm also worried about over sanding like I don't want loose joints

I could use any really advice on this

Diorama: Dragon Fight
Gundams are modified HG Dragon and HG Lfrith Anavata. Texture on the Dragon Gundam is done using UV nail gel techniques and both Gundams’ primary colors are done using color shifting nail pigment.

Diorama backdrop is airbrushed

Rocks are made using plaster-covered foam and crackle paste before being painted using mostly oil washes and dry brushing.

Clouds are created polyfill and renewliner and then shaded using a clear black paint.

I originally tried to use flexible filaments for the lighting, but after some trial and a lot of error I switched to super narrow WS2812B IC 12v LED strips on a parallel circuit. They were then shaped using clear heat shrink and uv glue.
@zanerut

My favorite part of seam line removal is priming to see if it is success or fail 😆

Sieg Zeon! Got back into my childhood hobby 3 months ago. My buddies customize and participate in local scale model IPMS style competitions. Was inspired and encouraged to do the same for the next one. Yesterday, I entered my first custom and won first place in the Gundam category!

Model details:
-1997 MG Gelgoog ver 1.0-Johnny Ridden
-A-10 Warthog inspired w/ WW2 tank paint and camo scheme. Really love the Kazuhisa Kondo look, was chasing that aesthetic.
-Swapped out shoulder cannon w/ Giant Gatling option part swapped. Black based, gunk washed and chipped.
-Black based then base coated with custom tan and custom green for the camo for the main body and backpacked
-Mr Weathering gunk washed.
-Oil dot filter.
-2 tone chipped for the body and backpack.
-Tamiya masters weathered.

Base:
Daiso gundam display sidewalls used as the base. Also custom.

Thanks to my best bud and friends for the suggestions, tips and most of all encouragement as I learned all these skills for the first time.