So that we're all on the same page, Waftability is a signature Rolls-Royce term that describes the effortless, smooth and near-silent sensation of gliding along the road as if floating on a magic carpet.

What other car Makes (and specific models if it helps) can you get into if you're looking for waftability without the Rolls Royce part?

I see some people say its more cost effective, and others say its better for performance, and some people say its a waste of time and energy altogether. Does it really do anything? And if it does, what does it actually do?

Growing up in the 2010s I remember seeing cars like the mini coopers , VW Beetles , PT Cruisers , Ford Flexs, Dodge magnums and scion XBs all over the place.

Now I hardly see them on the road anymore….. yes I know they are old now but I never see any cars like them anymore.

Everything just seems bland and boring and new mini coopers look to much like BMWs

I was just at mustang week and spoke to a representative of Hennessy tuner school and he made a compelling pitch for the school and it sounds from what he says at least to be a great option for after I graduate this year but when I look into it online I hear pretty mixed reviews. I see lots of great stuff about it but there’s also the 10 year old reddit post shitting all over it that a lot of people seem to run with any thoughts or graduates have an opinion?

I got a 2012 Civic Si about 2 months ago. ive changed brakes a long time ago on my first truck with my dad, but doing it by myself for the first time. what brake pads do i get and what else will i need?

I’m planning on buying a rolling foxbody shell and want to build an NA stick car out of it. I’m looking at going either with an 850 dominator or sniper EFI, I’m going down the route of probably running a faceplated T56 in it as well. Either way I go I’m looking at Yates heads or comparable LS heads and going the solid roller route. I’ll end up taking it out to cruise on some weekends or to work once in a blue moon. But I would like to take it up Epping a few weekends in the summer. What’s the better buy? What would I enjoy more? And what could I rev the piss out of and the bottom end holds together?

I’m curious what people do before they get to VIN checks, inspections, and specific listings.

Most of the advice I find is either “buy a Skoda or Honda or the equivalent” or a list of common problems. What I struggle to work out is what those problems actually mean for an owner. At what mileage do they tend to appear? How expensive are they? Is there solid evidence that they’re common, or does the same forum story just get repeated everywhere? Am i better to buy a 2017 120d diesel at 100k and do the timing chain myself or buy one already done?

Thinking about your last used-car search:

• What made you add or remove a model from your shortlist?
• Which sources did you actually trust?
• Was there anything you couldn’t figure out until you started looking at individual cars?
• Would it have helped to have the likely maintenance and ownership risks collected in one place?

I'm currently inbetween a higher mileage m235i or a lexus sc300, but also exploring an idea around this problem to help me for my yearly search for a new car. I don’t have a finished service to promote or really anything to show.

By fast I mean minimums requirements of light weight, 400hp+ or if heavier 600hp+.

I ask this question because I'm in the motorcycle world and it seems like bikes can't be beat, even if they're slower. However, they're also extremely dangerous.

This has me looking at 'fast' cars and if its worth the money to buy one. I like the idea of a Mustang GT/6spees manual. Are fast cars thrilling when driving spiritually? Or is it just too much and you can't have all that much fun because how fast they get up to speed?

There's slower cars like the Miata, but I just can't see myself owning one of those. I'm a big dude and there's no twisty roads near me. I also like V8s. Though I will say, I've never even driven a Miata, so I don't know.

I plan to get tires at discount tire as they price match. I’ll likely have to add the warranty on my tires, for the price match so it could be between 100-200 extra to add the warranty to them.

For reference:
2014 CRV EXL AWD: 225/65/17
I drive about 10-11k miles a year
Live in southeast US, light snow (consistent 1-2 inches sometimes more)

SAMS (total not including warranty)
Goodyear Assurance MaxLife2: for $587.52 (including $100 off discount)
Michelin Defender 2: $743.96

DISCOUNT TIRE (total including install & warranty)
-General Altmax RT45: $945.07

***open to additional options. I dont want the most expensive tires but also dont want cheap ones that I’ll have to replace in a year or 2. Maybe 130-180 a tire range!

Thank you in advance

Hi

I am painting some steel rim wheel as a decoration for my home.

I first used a Vaper knotted wire cup brushe to remove the old paint, rust and all the stuff. I really did the work with the brush.

After that I used a spray can of Rust-oleum painter's touch 2 in 1 (black) to coat the whole wheel.

The paint came out great, even on everything, good finish and all that. But as I work to put more color on the rim, I notice that the black paint can be scratched really easily even after 3 weeks of curing.

There is no flake coming off, but if i rub my hand on the rim a lot, I can see black pigment on it. I can use my nails to draw lines on the rim.

When trying to remove a spot where I used a primer with red acrylic paint, I was able to use a wooden clothespin to grind to the bare metal.

I tried another type of paint: Armor Coat Rust paint (alkyd).

Unfortunately, it is only slightly more sturdy after a full day of curing. I can scratch it , with some more effort, with my nails. The pigments seem to be holding more to the metal, but with some intense rubbing, I still get some pigment on my hand.

1) Do I really need to use paint specifically made for rim wheels, or is pretty much any metal paint scratchable?

1.5) Is the fact that my paint can be scratched a proof that it isn't bonded well?

2) Would applying a clear coat hold/protect my work enough?

2.5) If I use a clear coat, I need one that work with both alkyd and acrylic paint, any suggestion?

Do you have tips, company, products that you would recommend to work with metal.

I am gonna do a sword next.

I have been looking at Lexus ls 430 and the ls 460
Also have been looking at the gs350 and es350
What are other options preferably newer than 2010
And under 20k

I am gonna buy my first car soon and I need to buy a used car because they are cheaper. I saw that someone is selling a 2014 ford explorer (66,000 miles, 3.7L V6, All wheel drive, no civilian use yet because it was government) and I wanna know if that is a good car, it is $6,500. I live in California and every 2 months or so I go up to the mountains to target shoot and fish so I need something that can be off road slightly(nothing crazy, just going up dirt hills sometimes, etc…) so is this a good first car or should I buy something else?

Hello! I’m looking at getting a newer vehicle, preferably a car or truck from 2020–2026. I’ll be driving a ton every day for a medical device sales job, so I need something extremely reliable that can hopefully last close to 300k miles.

I’d like to stay under $30K and preferably find something with lower mileage since I’ll be putting a lot of miles on it myself. I do get mileage reimbursement for work, so MPG isn’t a huge concern for me—reliability and longevity are definitely more important.

What are 5 vehicles and specific years you would recommend? I’m trying to narrow it down to 3–5 options and would love to hear everyone’s thoughts and experiences!

Hello! So I am looking at a newer vehichle car or truck preferably 2020-2026. i need this to last 300k if possible or close to and need it to be reliable. I am going to be driving a ton everyday (med device) so good gas mileage would be nice. What are 5 recs you would give me and the years? needs to be under $30K and not to much milegage since i wil be racking up the miles myslelf. Would love to hear your inisghts and thoughts!! trying to narrow down to 3-5 to choose from- i get gas reibursment so even bad mpg is fine too.

Hello! So I am looking at a newer vehichle car or truck preferably 2020-2026. i need this to last 300k if possible or close to and need it to be reliable. I am going to be driving a ton everyday (med device) so good gas mileage would be nice. What are 5 recs you would give me and the years? needs to be under $30K and not to much milegage since i wil be racking up the miles myslelf. Would love to hear your inisghts and thoughts!! trying to narrow down to 3-5 to choose from

We replaced the battery on our 2002 Dodge RAM SLT 5.9L around January 2024. Since then, the truck has been driven maybe 500 miles. Due to a moisture and a cracked distributor cap (we think), it wouldn't start last December and we finally got it up and running today.

Problem is that we needed a jump and the truck dies as soon as you take your foot off the gas. I know that points to a potential problem with the alternator or the IAC valve, but the battery is also corroded on the nodes and most certainly totally dead.

Should I even bother trying to descale the battery and charge it by driving two-footed for a while, or would it make more sense to just get a new battery?

I have a list of a bunch of other stuff on the truck I need to look at so money is my big concern right now (especially for a truck with 312k miles that I got for free), but I definitely don't want to waste my time.

My brother was just offered a trade for a 2010 bmw 528i. He has a couple vehicles that we don’t really have a lot invested and surprisingly the dude offered to trade. I don’t know shit about bmw but like everyone else says they’re unreliable. The dude said it sat for a week and the battery was dead. which has me a little worried it might have wiring issues and need an exspensive repair. I’m looking at it this weekend. What are some things I should look out for? Or test?

For the past year I've been driving an '06 Honda CRV-SE. It has 189k miles on it and no maintenance issues whatsoever and I adore everything about this car. My mom wants to give me her '08 Honda Pilot that has 112k miles on it, to replace the CRV. The Pilot needs the tie rods and bushings to be replaced, which she said she can do before giving it to me. I don't do long trips, or haul things, I just drive my car around town. Which car is the better choice?

Budget is under $7k. I need something that can take a beating and keep going.

Looking for:
• Reliable motor that can push past 250k with just regular oil changes and basic maintenance (no money pits)
• SUV preferred, truck even better
• 150k+ miles is fine if it was taken care of
• 4x4/AWD is a plus, not required
• Decent cargo space (I surf, camp, and keep a lot of shit in the back)

Sedans are okay if the trunk is actually usable.
I don’t want some random clapped-out car off Marketplace from a dude who’s been beating the piss out of it. Ideally looking for something that was owned by a regular suburban family that actually maintained it.

Any years/models that are known tanks in this price range? Or better places to look besides the usual FB Marketplace/Craigslist lottery?

Bought a Buick Century 2 years ago and use it daily. When I first got the car it was almost silent as I drove it around. Overtime, I've noticed that it's been getting louder as I drive. Within the last month I've noticed that it has gotten much louder. It's a constant sound as I drive, almost like a buzz? It gets louder if I drive faster like on the freeway. The exhaust is fine and doesn't seem to have any issues in that regard and it still has the cat. (my area has a lot of thieves.) Any ideas on what it could be and what I could be looking at price wise?

Looking to get a car soon. What are some of the best spacious suvs on the market for under 20k? Was looking at Mazda cx5 but my concern with those are the second row isn’t too spacious and I’d like an suv that’s spacious and not cramped. (Two rows is preferred)