I inherited from my dad. I have tried pretty much everything i thought would help (which is not much because i dont know a lot about speakers in general) but the sound comes out like muffled and it really annoys me. Anyone know anything about these speakers specifically?

Attic find of a Deutscher Kleinempfänger aka Göbbelsschnauze (Goebbels snout) from about two years ago after my grandma passed.
I would love to restore it or get it restored. I already called a few radio stores that say it's basically hopeless to get it restored due to the lack of spare parts.
Two of them would take it for 50-70EUR up front payment + unknown costs for potential spare parts and labour.
According to one of the stores it's a rare version (Producer: Deutsche Rundfunkempfängerfabrik Warschau + Colour of the fabric) - so even more reason to restore it I guess(?)
Has anyone ever worked with these or similar radios? Where do I even start to check if it's working?
I am not keen to just plug it in and pray for it not catching on fire or sth.
Is it even worth starting this project or should I keep it as is?

I read in some older forums that the light bulb things (radio tubes?) seem to be a weak point.
I can hear slight rattle noises coming from the golden coloured bulb.

Location: Germany

help please how do i fix this i took three to college and just noticed this issue

First time recapping speakers and am unsure how to place my larger film capacitor since it doesn’t fit in the original spot.

So we managed to remove the front Black Chassis, and I’m following this manual on Page 7 and am wondering how do we remove the Deck B/Right Hand side Recorder decks Faceplate at the front, the Service Manual says there are clips to push it forward, but it doesn’t feel like it, meanwhile the 5 Disc Changer is easy as piss on the left because it has a Flap. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1139103/Sony-Rcd-W500c.html?page=7#manual

One of the tweeters in my Monitor Audio Bronze BX5 speakers is completely dead.

Before reaching out to support, I tested the faulty tweeter on the working cabinet's crossover to isolate the issue. The connection was fine, but the driver remained completely dead, confirming the voice coil failed.

I contacted Monitor Audio directly with the exact part number and impedance written on the back (TBX025, 4Ω). They confirmed they still have stock, but told me I must order through my local official distributor. They specified that the official replacement part number is now TBE025.

I contacted the local distributor, and while they can order it, they don't have it in stock. More importantly, they are strongly advising me to buy a pair instead of just one, quoting €89.70 total (€44.85 each).

I really was not expecting this cost, and I'm trying to keep this repair budget-friendly.

My question is: Do I genuinely need to replace both tweeters if I am ordering the official, factory-authorized OEM replacement (TBE025) directly from the manufacturer? Will a single new unit create a noticeable tonal or volume mismatch with the remaining original working driver?

Thanks in advance for the advice!

recently my cd changer on this stopped working and i am wondering if anyone has fixed it before.

when the unit is off and unplugged and i look at the trays, i can visibly see that the 5th tray is inset. when i turn it on, i hear it and see it attempt to "engage" that exact tray - it goes from inset, to flush with the rest of the trays (moves forward a bit) and then inset again (moves back a bit). it stops there and the display reads "cd-- open" or "cd change".

i am a complete newbie to repair, just trying to get the most out of this $10 thrift find.

I played a cd on my cd player just yesterday but when i tried to play another one today the machine made some clicking noises and didn't read the disc. I cleaned the laser but it still didnt work. I also thought it was about the cd bc the one i played yesterday was in a jewel case but the other cd was in a cardboard one but that wasn't the problem. I dont know what should i do. I would really appreciate if someone knew how to fix it

I found that this would be the best way to open the case because it's glued. Being impatient,I wasn't too careful with the router and made some mistakes that can be addressed. Be careful,on one side there is a metal knob....but I went thru both of them😅

This method would work with any glued case.

Note

Make a hole in one corner in order to see where the backplate ends so you could put the right or almost right router bit depth and keep it that way for the entire box.

Estaba tocando música y de repente hizo este sonido horrible, como estática y crujidos. Me asustó, así que lo reinicié. Hoy (lunes) volvió a pasar otra vez. Lo raro es que reiniciarlo lo arregla... pero es súper molesto tener que hacerlo una y otra vez. No suena nada suelto por dentro; hasta lo agité para checar, pero todo parece bien firme. Después de un poco de investigación, creo que tiene que estar bien sucio. Trabajo en una panadería rodeado de harina y, de hecho, tiene algunas partículas blancas diminutas pegadas que no se quitan fácil. Hago una limpieza básica, pero no uso mucha agua porque tengo miedo de dañarlo, jaja. Me ayudaría muchísimo si alguien pudiera echarme una mano. ¿Le ha pasado a alguien más? Es muy frustrante... ¡gracias!

Hi all,

I've got my first vintage stereo system (Teac A-30 Amp w/ tuner and cassette deck) and I've been having trouble with the right stereo channel, which was quiet and had a lot of backgrioud static.

I used WD-40 contact cleaner on the volume potentiometers and managed to get rid of the static and the volume improved, however after a couple of days it went back to how it was before. A bit of contact cleaner removes the static again but the volume from the right channel is still low.

Should I try using a different cleaner or should I try something more drastic than just a clean?

Thanks in advance

Any old school technicians want to mentor me on how to repair vintage steel equipment properly? I want to learn as a hobby and stress reliever. In San Antonio! I greatly appreciate it

Hi! Does anyone have tips for repairing my speaker?

I have a Philips NTRX500 speaker that immediately goes into standby mode as soon as it's switched on. I can't get it out of standby because it doesn't respond to any of the buttons on the device. The remote control is missing. I ordered a new one, which should arrive this week. However, it should be able to do everything without a remote control, as it has physical buttons that worked fine years ago.

Now, with the help of AI, I started looking into where the fault might lie. I've ended up at the circuit board and now seem to be stuck in my search. AI isn't a hero and I'm no electrical speaker genius, so I hope someone can point me in the right direction.

The speaker's history: about 5 years ago, it moved to a new house with me. During the move, it got stuck on its power cord, which damaged the connection. My father soldered the wire back on, and the device responded moderately well after that. It would always turn on, but only responded to the buttons half the time. I would plug the power cord in and out a few times, and sometimes it would catch properly so I could use the speaker fully. After that, it moved again and stayed in a shed for 3 years, and now I'm cleaning out the shed. Throw it away or try to repair it? Option two. I'm now at the point where I'm looking for a replacement circuit board and have even found speakers in the US and Germany haha. Sigh, nostalgia.

Anyhow, last week I went to a Repair Café. A gentleman secured the power cable properly to the device again. We unscrewed the top of the speaker and checked: all wires to the buttons are connected correctly and nothing up there seems burnt out. Device turns on, buttons don't respond, the gentleman put a CD in the tray and now can't get it out anymore. Duh. Then at home, I unscrewed the bottom myself. Cleaned the circuit board with isopropyl alcohol. Checked all the cables—looks good. Nothing seems burnt out. Turned the speaker on, and it worked right away!! Buttons worked, couldn't find Bluetooth, played 1 song via cable to my phone—super awesome sound! Dinner was ready, turned the music off, the speaker ejected the stuck CD all by itself, and after a while, it went into standby mode on its own. Tried to turn it on again afterward... Nothing. It turns on, lights turn on, lights go off, standby mode turns on, and the power button stays lit up red.

Help! How do I proceed from here? After a search with AI, I tried several things. The capacitors all look fine. Disconnected the speaker cable, turned the box on, still goes straight into standby. So the problem isn't a short circuit in the speaker cable. AI keeps coming back to an internal protection mechanism: a chip under that big, silver block that might be burnt out or isn't delivering enough power.

In short: who has the magical info to help me on my way? Where can I continue my investigation?

P.S. I don't really dare to measure the device with a multimeter myself. So much can go wrong with short circuits...

I just ran across my Monotron Duo that has been in storage for many years, and I put new batteries in it to tinker around. I remember I could enjoy messing with it in the past and being able to have a nice loud volume coming from the tiny speaker when I turned the volum knob up. Now I can barely hear anything coming from the speaker when the volume knob is at max. Is there a place someone can recommend where I can get some troubleshooting tips? I'm no electrician, and don't trust myself modifying circuit boards, but I want to try to do something. I have a test meter and can follow along if I see instructions on where to test voltage and whatnot. I'd just like to get this little guy back to good health so I can enjoy portable noise-making again.

I was given this amp by my friend but the main power relay isn't closing to output sound. I traced around on the board and it appears to be getting good input voltage to the coil but the contact resistance is high but not totally open (10s of k-ohm range). Can the cover be popped off and the contacts cleaned with Emory close or fine sandpaper or does it need to be fully replaced? Anyone have a drop in part number, I've been struggling to find a replacement relay with the right pin out and contact configuration. Thanks!

I recently bought an older cd player on eBay and I tested it, it all worked but then the second time I used it, the volume up button no longer works.
Normally I would just try googling it and see what I can do to fix it myself but I can’t seem to find anything about this cd player? No manual, no parts, nothing?
And I don’t want to take it apart without knowing anything on it and accidentally damage it
If anyone could help point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone,

I’m restoring an old Yamaha YSP-1000 soundbar, and two of the small tweeters have some cosmetic/physical damage.

The tweeters are working, but they show some visible damage (see pics). I’d like to repair them if possible rather than replacing the entire drivers, mainly because finding an exact replacement with the same dimensions and impedance is proving difficult.

I’m considering carefully repairing the damaged area, but I’m not sure what would be the safest method or material to use without affecting the sound.

What would you recommend?

Thanks!

Hello! I am trying to refoam these old speakers and was wondering how I should place the foam when gluing? Either the inner edge tucked in or glued to the paper cone.

Hello,

I just bought new Ruark MR1 MK3 speakers. However, there is a very high-pitched noise coming from the center top of the speakers. I can hear it when the speaker is on, whether it is connected to a device or not. Here is a video of the issue.

Not everyone is able to hear it: my mother is not. Do you think it could be a 'normal' noise, or could it be a defected unit?

Thank you.

Does anybody know of speaker repair companies near Houston? Not just refoaming, driver and possibly crossover diagnosis and repair.

I dissasembled a broken car door speaker. It seems that the glue holding the magnet and basket together came loose. Causing the voice coil getting stuck.

How is this possible? Is this due to poor manufacturing?

Shure Wireless Microphone repair

​Hello,

​I am trying to repair a Shure microphone that started having issues after 20+ years of working fine. The mic originally just had a broken cover. However, the day after I replaced the cover, it started producing random noise and random gain (inconsistent volume). I have confirmed that the issue is definitely not with the receiver or the mixer.

​After a quick inspection of the PCB, I found a broken 3-pin SMD component located just below the "TR160" label. Its top marking is either "A2Xq" or "A2Xo".

​At first, I thought this was an SI2302 MOSFET, but the mic had undefined behavior after I installed a replacement. It worked randomly—it would capture audio if I played a specific frequency from my phone, but otherwise, it produced a very loud noise.

​After doing another quick search, I suspected the part might actually be an MMBD2836LT1G (a dual switching diode). I didn't have this exact diode on hand, so I wired up two 1N4148 diodes instead. The loud noise went away, but the audio was still inconsistent.

​Due to inexperience, I also turned the small trimmers on the board. Now I don't know whether the trimmers are physically damaged or just out of tune, and I am still not sure if I used the correct replacement component. I cannot see any other physical damage on the PCB, and nothing is getting unusually hot.

​I am looking for help with two things:

​Identifying and replacing this exact component (it's likely an SOT-23 package with the label "A2Xq" or "A2Xo").

​Figuring out how to properly tune these trimmers, or how to replace them if they are damaged.

​Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I have the above NAD amplifier that I bought around 20 years ago. The on/off switch and the buttons to select which output to use (AUX / CD etc.) have stopped working as well as they ought to. I have to press REALLY hard to get it to switch back to "AUX" if I've used it for something else. It spends most of its time on AUX as I connect to my phone for digital music using that.

I have taken the box off, and the front panel,and cleaned the (small) amount of dust out. The buttons seem to operate properly, in terms of the amount of movement in/out - but obviously they aren't making enough of a connection?

I suspect this issue is not confined to this make/model of amp, it's more a general wear issue with switches - but what do I do to get them working again, if anything please?

I recently bought a mini Hi-Fi system The seller assured me that it was in working except for the CD player, which supposedly works but sometimes ejects, sometimes doesn't. She advised me that she had pryed the drawer open, but I find it hard to believe because It's stuck tight and I think something might break if I pull too hard. Does anyone have any advice on what might be causing this problem/how to solve it?

Edit:I've never seen it open, I'm trying to unscrew it but I can't pull out the player to check the rubber.