So, I'm considering doing something dumb and getting a Bug as my first car. Most likely 1300 because they're most common here. I did some searching but I'd also like to get some first-hand opinions: how much annual maintenance costs? What are red flags and common issues (other than rust ofc)? What can be fixed "in the parking lot", and what is better left to a mechanic? Is garage necessary or can it be worked around (ik rust is a problem)? What quality of life upgrades would you suggest?

The beetle gods have blessed me with my latest quirk driving my 1981 Beetle. When I attempt to turn, my horn goes off. Upon taking off the cover, I discovered 2 different styles of wheel contacts, missing one of the metal clips on the top left portion, as well as what looks like hot glue??? Which contacts are the right one? Anyone know where i can get replacement metal clips, as i cant seem to find any? And why would someone put hotglue on them? Thanks.

Aircooled Accesories makes these nice looking gauges with a classic / vintage / retro style that I really like. However, they are made in the UK and the prices are quite expensive.

Does anyone know similar alternatives at more affordable prices?

https://aircooledaccessories.com/product/voltage-gauge/

The manual says DOT 3 or 4 glycol based but the auto parts store doesn't have glycol based. He said that DOT 3 and 4 have glycol in them but can I use that or is there some hidden link or type i am not seeing? I have a 1970 with Drums all around

I have a 2014 Beetle Coupe (1.8L) that has been making a weird click/clunk sound when I let off the gas pedal (occasionally after letting off the brake or when I coast). I recently had an exhaust clamp replaced, the sway bar welded, got new rear shocks and front struts, and last year got new control arms.
My mechanic is trustworthy. He couldn’t tell what it was exactly and made some calls. The thought from some other VW mechanics was it might be the axels or the transmission. I’ve already put so much money into this car this year but can’t afford a new one so have to get it fixed. Has anyone else had a similar issue?

Hi all! Hoping for some help diagnosing an issue with my first bug. I will preface this by saying I’ve never worked on cars before this and am learning on the fly. She’s a 1972 Super Beetle. Bought her 6 months ago from a VW mechanic in Rhode Island. I will say the wiring (and lack thereof this guy did is probably part of the issue. (Literally left a brand new headlight unplugged) All the old wiring was still there, some things weren’t grounded or cleaned before new wires were attached and the old wiring harness is still there. (Photos to come)

She ran for 4 months and then wouldn’t start in mid June. Engine was turning over but not firing so I know it was getting some power or the power was fluctuating, tested with a multimeter.

So far I have replaced

- 12V battery
- ground and positive from the battery
- starter and starter solenoid. Bench tested the old and new and both worked 🤷🏻‍♀️ now I have a backup ig
- fuse boxes
- what I think is the rear defroster solenoid, picture included. Says SWF R 601-047 12V 15A. *Taken out and put back in because I thought it was the starter relay*

I’ve been bump starting her once a week since she crapped out except for the past 4 weeks since I went on vacation. Yesterday I took out what I believed to be the old starter relay and wiring for it (now I think it’s the rear defroster solenoid?) and now the engine isn’t even firing (dirty carb issue due to sitting for a month?)

If anyone can offer insight into what I’m screwing up or if I’m missing something super obvious I’d appreciate the hell out of it. I’m honestly stumped and this close to giving up and taking it to be completely rewired, but I’d like to see if I can exhaust every avenue before that. (I don’t wanna spend that much dough to tow it there if it’s something stupid simple)

Hi everyone! Wanted to show the progress we are making, it’s coming along great; we just need to finish one more side window, and do some wiring and she’s ready to hit the roads, also getting it ready for the Rollout they are doing in San Antonio so that’s gonna be good

Ended up buying a new header but once I installed it I realized my stinger was to small to bolt to the collector 🤷🏻father in law came to the rescue and made that sucker work 🤣it runs and sounds so much better not having 10 exhaust leaks, even get the snap crackle pops when down shifting now🤘

I have tightened the two screws on the shifter as much as I can and I can shift gears but in neutral the wheels still spin. Pressing the clutch makes the wheels slow and stop but letting off makes them spin up again. I plan to try and drive the car soon after I bleed the brakes and get new tires, so I am worried I will have trouble shifting.

Its really amazing how these things somehow work when they shouldn’t, took apart the transaxle to replace 2nd gear synchro only to find out 4th gear missing some of its teeth, the circlip was missing completely on the pinion shaft so 4th gear was rubbing against the housing, shift fork shafts had sooooo much play too, the nosecone was cracked, and the brass bushing was being held on by a hose clamp, 3rd engagement gear had twice the end float of the upper limit and a cracked synchronizer ring, the worst issue was that the 3rd/4th slider hub was loose on the shaft due to a very worn woodruff key i have no idea it had no other issues than 2nd gear grinding and the shifter being a little bit stiff. After correcting everything its not as stiff anymore and every gear engages like butter almost like a modern car its so much more pleasant to drive now.

My baby

We did valves and ignition timing to 30 BTDC at 3500~ yesterday and the idle sounds higher than it should be but not having a tach and not being used to hearing these engines could skew my thoughts.

I also used the “sound tach” apps on iPhone (not the most reliable source of info) but they landed it around somewhere between 700-800rpm

However it does seems to be running and driving better. It would usually die after a good heat soak on the engine and then have a hard time starting back up again but took it for a drive today and that doesn’t seems to happen anymore or at least as quickly

Hey everyone, I’m working on a 1972 VW Beetle and I finally got it driving today. It starts and idles, but the engine shakes pretty badly at idle.

When I actually drive it, it feels like it has almost no power. It’ll move, but it feels like it’s barely pulling itself forward. When I shift into 2nd gear, the RPM drops and it almost dies unless I get back into 1st.

Interestingly, if I rev the engine while it’s sitting still, it seems to rev much better and the shaking mostly goes away.

I recently replaced the fuel pump and got the car running after it had been sitting. I’m wondering if this sounds more like a fuel delivery/carburetor issue, ignition/timing issue, vacuum leak, or possibly a dead cylinder.

What would you guys check first? I’m trying to diagnose it before I start throwing parts at it.

Thanks!

73 VW bug, Running OK, cleaned up messy wires in engine compartment, replaced them one at a time. I have 12 volts to coil+, using Bosch coil and electronic distributor. All grounds appear good. Traced wires back to fuses and all good.

The thing that has me stumped is that I have good voltage to the coil.

Bought a new coil, nothing different, still no spark from primary wire from the coil.

Getting a new points distributor tomorrow.

Does anyone have any direction to point me in ?

So I got a 63 beetle with the horsehair rear seats and the fibers keep breaking apart. Eventually it will break away to nothing so I'm trying to find something to keep it together. I have been told using hair spray but they also said I would have to do it once a week and that sounds like a nightmare. Is there anything anyone knows of that can keep the fibers together for good? Or at least a good long time?

I've also been told to just replace it but I don't necessarily feel like spending $600+ when my current seat is working, just messy.

Taking apart my motor and noticed this one nick on my cam gear I would assume it’s ok

I only had time to do one cylinder and cylinder three seemed most likely. I will test all 4 when I finish my workshop in a few months