Canon R7
RF 100-500 L IS USM

I’m really struggling with the Canon R7 when it comes to tracking birds in low light, and honestly, even in general. The camera seems to hunt for focus constantly, even when the bird is right in front of the camera or filling a huge portion of the frame.

For example, today I had a bird filling around 80% of my frame, and the camera still completely refused to focus on it. Instead, it kept trying to focus on the rocks behind the bird and would scan back and forth rather than locking onto the bird.

I genuinely don’t understand how it can miss the subject when it takes up that much of the frame.

My main issues

• If a bird isn’t in direct sunlight, the camera has a really hard time tracking it and achieving eye focus.
• BIF (birds in flight) has been an even bigger problem. I’ve had a literal 0% success rate with BIF. The camera just doesn’t seem to lock onto the bird quickly enough, and by the time it does, the moment is already gone.
• I use Tv (shutter priority) mode because I’m usually out walking or hiking and need to be able to quickly take photos when an opportunity comes up. I don’t always have time to switch to M mode and change all my settings. A lot of the birds and animals I photograph are also very skittish, so being able to react quickly is important, and Tv mode works much better for that.
• The other problem is that Tv mode sometimes seems to expose completely incorrectly. It can be wayyyy overexposed, with white feathers being completely blown out, or it can be extremely dark, to the point where I can barely see anything. It feels like it hardly ever gets the exposure right.
• And, as mentioned above, the tracking just seems really poor. Even when the subject is large in the frame, the camera can still ignore it and focus on the background instead.

My general settings

• AF Operation: Servo AF
• Subject detection: Animals / Eye Detection
• AF Case: Case 2 (Continue to track subjects, ignoring possible obstacles)
• Lens: RF 100-500mm L IS USM
• AF range: I switch between 3m–∞ and Full when appropriate
• Image Stabilisation: First IS option
• AF: On
• Metreing Centre Weighted or Evaluate

I’ve also tried both shutter-button AF and back-button focus.

Back-button focus actually seems worse for me. It seems to hunt for much longer before locking onto the subject compared with using the shutter button.

I sometimes turn eye detection off because I’ve heard that it can help AF tracking by preventing the camera from constantly searching for the eye.

However, when I turn it off, I’ve noticed that sometimes the camera seems to refuse to track the bird properly at all.

I honestly don’t know what I’m doing wrong. I can go on an entire hike and come home without a single usable photo.

The biggest issue seems to be when the subject isn’t directly lit by the sun. If the bird is in good, direct sunlight, the camera generally does much better.

As soon as the bird is in shade or the light is lower, the AF seems to struggle massively.

Is the R7 genuinely just this bad at tracking birds in low light and with BIF, or is there something I’m missing with my settings or technique?

I’d really appreciate advice from other R7 users, particularly anyone using the 100-500L for birds and wildlife.

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Hello. I just managed to snag a Metabones mk IV converter for my 24MP Mirrorless full frame camera for only $60, which I couldn’t pass up. I want to get full frame lenses on the cheap as I’m on a student budget, and am this wondering which ones I should go for.

Ideally I’d like a wide angle zoom or a very wide angle prime, as well as a nice 75mm+ prime for portraits. I’m on a tight budget and mostly familiar with F-mount lenses, so I wonder if anyone has anh good tips. Ideally I’d like to get both lenses for under $500 total. Is this doable for lenses that perform well on my 24MP sensor?

Hello everyone, I recently purchased a Canon R6V, and im in the market to get a new external monitor....has anyone that has a Canon R6V found an external monitor that "Touch to Focus" works on? I dont want to pull the trigger on a Shinobi ii if it wont let me do that.

Thanks in advance.

I wonder if we can expect another bigger cashback action like in 2024. Back then I grabbed a R6 Mk2 and a 100-500mm L with almost 900 Euro cashback.

Hi there, I recently upgraded from original R6 to mark III, and I met a photo numbering issue: the photo numbering will sometimes rest by itself. I only have one SD card so I use it for both photo and video. Sometimes after I cut everything to my Mac, the file number will reset to 0001 when I use the camera next time. The file numbering setting is "Continuous" which is same with my original R6 and I never had an issue with that.

Since R6 markIII keeps photos and videos into different folders, I always cut videos to the photos folder and then cut them all to my Mac. Will it be a problem? Should I use copy instead and format in camera later?

Thank you!

Hiya, What it says on the tin - is there an option for a mains power source for the R6 Mark ii for (theoretically, obvs you shouldn't actually do it) endless power? I've tried a good quality USB-C cable but it's still dependent on the batteries eventually running out.

The camera struggles in spot AF mode but works completely fine in 1 point AF and continuous tracking AF mode. I am keeping the camera stationary on a bed so the exposure settings don't matter i guess.

Hi everyone. I have a Canon Rebel XTi that drains the battery while the camera is turned off.

I measure battery voltage and despite its age, it still delivers 8.2v fully charged. The issue with the XTi is that if i leave the battery inside the camera for 7-8 hours, the battery gets discharged and the voltage drops to 0v.

I did the same test with a Rebel XT and the battery didn't discharge deeply.

Has anyone the same issue?

Seems that all big stores are having a canon discount week site wide here in australia, seems tempting, does anyone know why?
Maybe a major release is coming?
I would hate to buy today and next week something great is announced or released.

Pd: I am bout to buy some new gear, been saving so buy tomorrow or next week

I tried searching for an answer, but really couldn't find answers. I'm starting content creation and want to use my EOS R for creating videos, but the lens autofocus sound comes through to my videos. I have an external wireless mic, but it's USB-C. Anyone have suggestions for an external mic or a setup that would allow me to use a wireless external mic?

I am on a safari right now and got my sigma stopped working. The motor moves, but the lenses inside don't move with it. If I turn the focus ring in MF it doesn't work either. Someone else with this problem?

Hi, I have the following problem: I’m using a Canon R6 Mark II together with a Feelworld LUT6S monitor.

Unfortunately, the LUT display on the monitor doesn’t match the Log Assistant or the final image at all.
The image on the monitor is extremely oversaturated, and the pink/magenta tones really stand out.

The exposure is correct, and I’m sure the footage itself is fine. The Color Space Transform in DaVinci Resolve also looks correct.

But the LUT that is displayed on the monitor doesn’t look anything like the actual LUT.

Has anyone experienced the same problem and knows how to fix it?

I’ve already created a CST in DaVinci Resolve and exported it as a .cube file. I’ve also downloaded LUTs from the Canon website, but the monitor renders them in a really weird way.

Hello! I just purchased a refurbished Eos R50 from Canon that comes with the RF S 18-45 STM lens. At $529 I'm very happy with the price but I'm looking for a second lens with some zoom. Ideally it will be compact and an all rounder but give me more range for zooming in on things (animals, building details etc on vacation). Long term I want to get a great telephoto lens for birding and nature but first I want something more all purpose and budget at present that can fit into my carry-on for an upcoming flight. From my research the RF S 55-210 STM used is affordable and fits my use case but I wanted to check if I should be considering something else? I know not to buy the RF 75-300 😅

Looking for some advice on getting into underwater photography.

I mainly shoot marine/yachting photography at the moment. My usual setup is a Canon R6 Mark II, with an R7 as my backup, and I mostly use the 100-400mm and 70-200mm.

I’d like to start experimenting with underwater photography and have found a relatively cheap €1200 second-hand setup consisting of a Canon RP, SeaFrogs housing, dome port and the other bits needed to get started. From what I understand, I should also be able to pair it with my Canon 16-35mm f/2.8, which seems like it could be a decent underwater setup.

I’m considering going this route rather than buying a housing for my R6 II, mainly because it would let me get into underwater photography relatively cheaply without putting my main camera at risk while I’m learning.
For anyone with underwater photography experience: does the RP + SeaFrogs setup sound like a sensible starting point? Are there any major drawbacks or things I should look out for when buying a used housing/dome setup?

Also, would the 16-35mm f/2.8 be a good lens to start with underwater, particularly for boats/yachts, marine life and wider environmental shots?

Any advice for someone just getting into underwater shooting would be greatly appreciated!

i removed some folders on my sd card because i didn’t think they mattered but i think it messed it up and now my camera screen doesn’t work when i use the sd card

is there a way to fix the sd card or to reset the camera, i’m assuming that’s what caused the problem

I'm trying to refer a camera to a friend through a local camera store (KEH Camera, particularly). He's already used cameras like the T7 and knows how to edit photos, but wants one of his own.

He usually takes shots at low-light convention centers, so specifically full-frame. Is there anything better than this at the price? He used the 18-55 on the T7. One thing he noted was that he wants more zoom with the same wide-angle opportunity, so anything more than 70mm.

So basically I bought a 40D 2 years ago, it broke. Okey so I bought a defective 40D hoping to repair. Funny enough, that one had only 300 shutters. It even smelled completely new after 19 years!!

The shutter motor was broken and I replaced it with that one I just had yk.

It worked fine no problems, but after something got inside the camera (don’t even ask me how) and the mirror was blocked, by the time i got it free, it stopped moving at all. Opened up the camera, looked inside, nothing. Everything spins. So before I tear it up completely I may have made a biiiiiiiig mistake by pulling the top up to quick and unplugging that grounding cable. This just mayyyyy has caused a 10000V short from the capacitor. It it juuuuuuust may errors with error 99😭

Can anyone help me here? I don’t have money I can’t just buy another or buy part. Man I don’t even have a lens.

I need your alls help now, this camera is worth more to me than anything else as it only lives with the soul of my beloved older 40D I used to shoot with. (15K pictures btw)

Update 1: fixed the error. It was a f-ed up daughter board.

Update 2 (last picture): may I cry? Got to figure 076 in the canon document (page 106) and after that there is no more explanation for the rest of the mirror box. So I went in there blind, had 2 springs and 20 different stud flying at me. Anyone wanna knows anything or can help me?

I've been using the G3 X and I really think Canon is missing an opportunity by not updating this camera.

What makes the G3 X so interesting is that it's only slightly larger than a typical travel camera, while offering an incredible 25x optical zoom (24–600mm equivalent). It's an extremely versatile camera that you can carry almost anywhere.

I think a modern version with a few relatively straightforward upgrades could be an amazing travel and all-purpose camera:

• A modern 1-inch sensor with better dynamic range and high-ISO performance.
• 4K video.
• Much faster and more capable autofocus.
• Remove the optical low-pass (anti-aliasing) filter, if possible, to get more detail from the sensor.
• Improve the neck-strap attachment points. Ideally, there could be an adapter or redesigned mounting system that positions the strap attachment points closer to the camera's center of gravity. When carrying the G3 X around your neck, the large lens barrel tends to point downward and the camera swings from side to side. A better-balanced strap attachment system would make it much more comfortable to carry.

Canon wouldn't even need to completely redesign the concept. Just modernize the sensor, autofocus and video capabilities, and improve the ergonomics.

I've attached some photos I've taken with my G3 X to show what this camera is already capable of.