Hello everyone,

We are two engineering graduates and we have been working on a project for some time.

We are pleased to present Céline, an open source audio-centered circuit simulator designer. This plugin/standalone app lets you draw and design circuits and play through them, live, with no added latency.

Céline is able to emulate a large range of pedals from distortion to fuzz, wah, phasers, EQs. We have managed to emulate full amplifier preamps and power amps and have compared it to Fractal's AXE FXIII (industry leading in modelling) and have obtained comparable tone signatures (we modelled circuits inspired by Fender EF1, EVH 5153 Stealth, Mesa MKIIC+).

Why? Simply because we couldn't find any sensible alternative to our idea anywhere. We've looked at the obvious contenders : SPICE based engines like LTSpice and LiveSpice. Unfortunately, LTSpice is rather old and it cannot do realtime. LiveSpice on the other had a lot of potential, but it is left relatively barebones, with no updates in 5 years. This is what drove us to create Céline, an ambitious music-oriented tool to safely and accurately experiment with your ideas.

The project was a continuous effort and an ongoing project for quite a while. To make it clear, we did use AI for this project, but this project is NOT vibe-coded. AI was used as a tool for fast iteration, bug-fixing and implementation. The underlying engine architecture, UI/UX choices and behavior are man-made. We've imagined and built the project from the ground up, and tried to build a tool that looks nice and is fun to use for us. There are limits to what's achievable, Céline being a side-project with no budget, but we're proud of what we've made and hope the community can enjoy it (and help us make it even better!).

We hope you enjoy it and thanks to anyone who will try it out and please give us feedback.

Céline Audio team.

Did some custom waterslide graphics on a StewMac Ghost pedal kit. Pretty happy with the way it came out! Also added some mini chicken foot knobs.

This is my second build. It’s a stewmac Klon. I can get it to work on its own, but I don’t even get a dry signal when I pop it into the enclosure. It seems like it’s shorting out, but I can’t for the life of me figure out where.

Please send tips for what I should do next.

Anyway, thanks in advance. This community has been greatly supportive, and I’m so appreciative of you all.

Very simple, my take on a three Si transistor fuzz. But, the first PCB I designed myself from a fuzz schematic I designed as well (basically a modded fuzz face with an extra volume boost and a two-way switch for treble or bass boost), so I'm pretty proud! A step beyond breadboarding and stripboard. I guess it could be a hell of a lot smaller/better but nonetheless, it's here :)

Gonna solder it this weekend, while waiting for my Tayda order (enclosure, pots, and some knobs).

Just wanted to share my enthousiasm 🤣

This is one of my clones of the jext telez white pedal. Funny enough, I’m from the same town as Bob and I’ve seen him around a few times. I think this is the last board of this version? I used to make these when I needed some cash but it turned into one of my favorite circuits! I’ve made a few tweaks to the original circuit, nothing major. This one I made for my dad ‘cause his birthday was coming up. Came out looking pretty clean imo!

Hi everyone, I recently got a broken Zoom MS-50G basically for free and I'd like to repair it, if possible. I'm a newbie in this world so please forgive me if I write something stupid.

The pedal doesn't turn on, I tried with USB, 9v, AA batteries and with and without cables. It just doesn't do anything. I disassembled it completely and I inspected everything, the only thing I found that looks suspicious is this resistor. It looks broken. Is it? Could it be the problem? I tested with a multimeter and in the continuity test I get no beeps and an O.L. result.

Thanks for your help!

Tried messing around with LM567s/Hemmos for the first time. Lots of fun but killing that carrier signal and shield it was too much so I just went with it.

It's noisy, parasitic, basically an antenna. Definitely some things that crash the chip and probably short things (one button combo I can feel in my fingers).

High gain, bad unfiltered power, plastic box and a myriad of wires. Noise central.

Was meant to be true bypass (has an input) but it bled so much that it was useless so now that switch just turns it off grounding the jacks. I will fix that since I know there is a better way or wiring it so that it ground the circuit, but for now I don't want to go back in there.

I'm thinking about a pedal that can take one guitar signal and pass it through two different signal paths. One of them would have some sort of delay I.C that delays the signal for less than 3 milliseconds, and then a basic eq for each signal path. In theory, it sounds simple enough to design, but I believe my idea has already been created before.

A friend asked for a way to be able to route the output of a pedal into another, and then blend the output of the original pedal into the combined series output. Luckily I had been playing with a design for a continuous series/parallel blender a few years ago I could blow the dust off of.

Only changes I've made to my original crude design was buffers, a phase inversion, and what I assume to be some functional transformer isolation for the loops. I'm new to using transformers for this purpose, would tying the grounds of each loop together like this be sufficient or would I need to expand to input and output transformers?

Any other thoughts or suggestions for improvement are welcome!

Hello Everyone, I own this Mosky Audio distortion pedal, which is a clone of the Wampler Pinnacle Distortion. It came with fake J201 JFETs, of course, but I replaced them with SMD J201s, and the sound improved significantly.

However, both before and after the replacement, the pedal has had a strange “fade-in” issue. When I pick hard, the sound gradually swells in, almost like a ramp-up, instead of behaving like a normal distortion pedal. This doesn’t happen when I pick softly. The same thing happens even with the Boost and Vint/Mod switches turned off.

Strangely, even if I play a soft note and let it ring out, then immediately hit another note hard, the same ramp-up effect occurs. It doesn’t really feel like “sag” to me; it feels much more like a fade-in effect.

I’m pretty sure my power supply isn’t the cause, since all my other pedals work perfectly with it.

Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this? Could it be incorrect factory biasing? A faulty capacitor? Some other component? I’m a novice when it comes to audio electronics, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

I forgot to mention one more detail: after playing hard and triggering the volume swell effect, it stabilizes as long as I keep playing continuously.

However, if I stop playing and mute the strings, then play hard again after a brief pause, the volume swell effect kicks in all over again. (That’s where it gets annoying.)

This is based off the layout from Amplified Parts with a couple mods. An internal trimmer sets the voltage on Q3 Collector. A tone control has been added to the output of the circuit.

The enclosure was designed and UV printed by our very own Barry Brooks! Very sharp Barry!! The durability of the UV ink is incredibly professional!

A passive RLC filter tuned to the fundamental frequencies of a 6 string bass. It’s based on a rather antiquated topology — big inductors and switched capacitors — so I dubbed it the “Antiquarian.”

The passive filter sits between a clean buffer and a clean makeup gain stage. In addition to the 6-way corner frequency switch, you’ve got filter resonance and volume controls, plus a filter mode switch that toggles between high pass and band pass modes.

This is a tascam 424 preamp pedal that I used the schematic from aionfx to create. The other day it worked fine and for some reason it just started doing this. I will attach a video. But it sounds really crackly and fizzy, and it gets significantly quieter when I go from bypass to engaged. Thanks for any help! I can attach a schematic as well.

Hello, anyone know where i might be able to find a replacement top plate for my tuner? Or even just a place that sells boss pedals for parts, cheap? I already looked on ebay and reverb, and havent been able to find anything less than 60 bucks.

Gotta work on my graphic design skills!

This will potentially replace a Nano Q-Tron on my board. Seems pretty great on first impression and I have yet to mess with the trim pot.

Yesss! I’m still learning and not all my projects work (yet). Today’s project goes straight from the solder iron to my pedal board! The Cygnus Furr Fuzz is my first build that required no fixing, just a cool pedal that worked from the get go.

In essention it’s a muff but I used 2N2222 transistors and changed a resistor or two. The fur coat is a creative way not to bother my neighbours with the smell of spray paint 😁

My smoothest going build so far. Proud of myself!

Got some OC81s to make some Tone Benders and saw these unusual gold OC44s. Anyone here used them before?

Hey Everyone! I wanted to reach out to the community here for help.
This is the schematic that my current PCB is made from. (The missing joint in the power filtering has been resolved). On the bread board, D4 and D5 are lighting up perfectly and before the hard clipping section with D2 and D3.

However, on the PCB, D4 and D5 are hardly flickering and I'm losing the soft clipping breakup that engages earlier on the breadboard.

I'm not sure what I'm missing, or the best way to test the signal flow now that I'm at the PCB.

Hopefully someone here has some insights?

Do different guitar/bass cables actually change the sound because of their capacitance?

If a passive pickup is treated as part of an RLC circuit, wouldn’t changing cable length or capacitance shift the resonant frequency and Q?

So is the sound difference between cables not only high-frequency loss, but also a change in the pickup/cable resonance?

And does this effect become much smaller with active pickups or after a buffer?

I’ve bought this wah an year later at Fukuoka, Japan.

And I found this…some paintings in inner circuit and weird-looking inductor.

69 mod wah 2? What is it? Can anyone help me?

I really like the auto engage wahs, but they are all buffered bypass. The mod to turn a vox v847a to true bypass seems pretty simple. My question is, could I use a momentary switch in the heel so that when the switch is depressed it true bypasses, and when the switch is let off it turns the effect on? Obviously it would require modifying the housing and might be difficult to get the switch to properly engage, but from a circuit stand point it should work right?

Maybe my Googling is failing me, I would have assumed there is info out there on what parts to change but I can’t find it. Anyone?

Cambie el power jack y ahora no suena pero enciende,soy un maquinaxd ayuda:c