No trailer queens, no excuses, just pure grassroots motorsport.

The HB Racing crew headed out to Crail Raceway for the VX Icons & Retro Rides event to do what we do best: stretch the legs of our builds, lay down some rubber on the drag strip, and enjoy a proper day of trackside abuse with fellow petrolheads.

From quick launches here’s a look at our highlights from the day.

https://youtu.be/LjZ80S3FDhQ?is=mtv19YAO2tmQAY0F

No trailer queens, no excuses, just pure grassroots motorsport.

The HB Racing crew headed out to Crail Raceway for the VX Icons & Retro Rides event to do what we do best: stretch the legs of our builds, lay down some rubber on the drag strip, and enjoy a proper day of trackside abuse with fellow petrolheads.

From quick launches here’s a look at our highlights from the day.

https://youtu.be/LjZ80S3FDhQ?is=mtv19YAO2tmQAY0F

Looking at possibly buying an older drag car (Fiero with tubed rear set up for front small block Chevy). Unsure of a couple things like the wedges in the roll cage along with how it is mounted to the body, the quality of some of the tabs and mounts in the rear, and the angle of the Harness possibly being off. Need some more professional opinion on what it would take to get the chassis usable for a lower power first drag car and then what might need to be done to certify it for higher speed runs later on.

Nitrous dissociates into 1/3rd oxygen and 2/3rd nitrogen, which as we know is what makes nitrous engines be able to burn more fuel and therefore make more power than NA engines. But what if you added extra oxygen to the nitrous? Either by pre-mixing it in the bottle, or by extra piping from a 100% compressed oxygen bottle into some kind of tunable mixing regulator.

I've read that feeding an engine with just oxygen isn't really feasible due to stability/explosion issues, but surely there has to be a sliding scale between nitrous and pure oxygen that can be utilized for burning more fuel than could be done with just nitrous alone.

You could even do a mix of compressed air and oxygen, which might be safer, I don't know. Compressed air gives you really low intake temps.

Do you know if it's ever been tried, and if so, what the results were?

Black one "THE BRUTAL DYNO POWER"

Doing some pulls in Mid-City, Los Angeles

I have a ticket for sale for the NHRA Nationals Finals event in Indiana (September 7th).

Details:
Level EAST
Section DD · Row 23
Seat(s) 14
Price - $95

#loudcar #tenpin #mli #dragstersgf lol my boss switch my nickname from slacker to lot lizard haha

Hello,

For the people in the Alberta, Canada province where do you get your roll bars and back half kits?

Thank you

one of the first races I went to with my bf it’s was just street drag racing … I wanted so bad to race my truck( my mom talked me out of it) but there were straight mini vans racing probably just backed out of the driveway !Moms gotta get some grocery money! lol

Hey all — I run a small shop (Scotten Motors) building EV conversions for classic trucks, and one of the components I engineer in-house is a custom De Dion rear axle setup. The main reason I went that route was to mount an integrated drive unit (motor + diff combined) between the two rear wheels — it cuts parasitic loss, weight, and mechanical complexity versus a separate motor/diff/axle arrangement. Keeping the wheels connected by a De Dion tube (instead of a live axle housing the diff) is what makes that packaging possible, and it also happens to significantly cut unsprung mass versus a standard live axle.

Been wondering if that has a second life outside EV conversions — specifically for drag applications. Two things stand out to me as potentially relevant to launch consistency: the reduced unsprung mass, and the fact that the axle itself is fully "dead" — it doesn't rotate or react to drive torque, since all of that is tied to the frame through the drive unit rather than the axle housing. On paper that should mean less wheel hop under hard launch, since you're not fighting axle wrap the way you would with a live axle. Curious if that tracks with what you're seeing in your own builds, or if I'm missing something.

Genuinely curious what this community thinks:

• Is unsprung mass reduction from a De Dion layout something drag builds actually care about, or is it a non-issue next to what you're already running (ladder bar, four-link, etc.)?
• Any obvious downsides for straight-line use I'm not thinking about, coming at this from a road-vehicle background?
• Along the same lines, we also developed an aluminum caliper, thin-rotor brake kit to keep unsprung mass down further with custom mounts that bolt straight to our axle hub boxes — built specifically to fit our De Dion axles, not a bolt-on for other setups. Any interest in something like that?

Not trying to hard-sell here — I'd rather know now if this is a bad fit for drag builds than build out a whole product line nobody wants. Happy to share more detail on the design if anyone's curious.

Thanks for any input.

I scooped a pair of bias plies on marketplace for cheap and realized when I got home they aren't drag tires - 27.5x8.5-15 Hoosier Comanches.

Worth running for a stick car hoping to tickle the 11s? Will they hook up? Am I cooked chat?

Malmä Raceway 22/8-2026

🔥 Pro Street Outlaw Night: Unbelievable Action at Ohio Valley! 🏁💨

Ohio Valley Dragway was absolutely WILD for Pro Street Outlaw Night! 🔥 From massive burnouts to hard launches and side-by-side racing, these cars came ready to put on a show.

🏁 Which car or race was your favorite? Let me know in the comments!

If you love drag racing, muscle cars, and full-throttle action, check out Barry the Bald Eagle on YouTube!

▶️ www.youtube.com/@barrythebaldeagle

#dragracing #ohiovalleydragway #prostreet #outlawracing #racing #musclecars #dragstrip #fullthrottle #godfirst #familyalways

I currently have a 10 speed 2020 Mustang GT, right now I have a Roush CAI, catback exhaust and shoemaker 93 tune. Obviously I’m not making a ton of power but I’ve never drag raced before and want to get into it. I’m curious where I should start, I would like to start upgrading the suspension and everything else before eventually adding boost.