This time I built a high-end gaming system around the GIGABYTE X870E AORUS Elite X3D, using the Lian Li O11 Vision Compact Black as the base for the build.

The customer already had the GPU, PSU, SSD and memory, so my job was to choose the remaining components and bring everything together inside the case he'd wanted for a long time.

At the center of the system is the Ryzen 7 9800X3D, paired with a Gainward RTX 5080 Phantom. For cooling I went with the Lian Li HydroShift II LCD-S 360, while TL Wireless fans with LCD displays complete the overall look.

Specs:

• GIGABYTE X870E AORUS Elite X3D
• AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
• Gainward GeForce RTX 5080 Phantom
• Lian Li O11 Vision Compact Black
• Lian Li HydroShift II LCD-S 360
• Lexar 32GB DDR5-6000 CL30
• WD Blue SN5000 2TB
• ENDORFY Supremo FM6 850W
• Lian Li UNI FAN TL Wireless / TL Wireless LCD

I really like how the AORUS motherboard looks inside the O11 Vision Compact, especially with the mostly black hardware and the RTX 5080 Phantom.

What do you think of the AORUS + Lian Li combination?
I made a full video here if you're interested in the process - https://youtu.be/vaHZGVcNdog?si=39qEtv9PaWpnj_Cc

I switched to the Gigabyte Gaming OC RX 9070 XT earlier today and did a clean install of the latest AMD drivers on windows 10 using DDU. Every time the GPU reaches 47-50℃ or so the fan speed goes ballistic and maxes out - the fan speed only ever seems to go between 0rpm, 900rpm/20%, and 4000rpm/100%. It doesn't obey the fan curves in AMD Adrenalin nor did it obey fan curves when I installed MSI Afterburner, which I've since uninstalled. I don't have any Gigabyte software installed. The BIOS switch on the card is set to the quiet preset.

I tried installing the latest BIOS through Gigabyte Control Center, and after that it started showing that I had a YE4 and not an XE4, and the GPU caught code 10 and refused to work. I tried reinstalling the FB0B version, but it didn’t work.

I saw a similar thread from three years ago, but the advices there didn't help much.

For a lot of PC gamers, the default answer has always been:

“Build a desktop.”

And honestly, we get it.

More performance for your money, easier upgrades, better cooling, more customization... the list goes on. But gaming laptops have come a long way.

So we're curious what actually makes a gaming laptop worth choosing in 2026.

If you were shopping for a high-end gaming laptop, how would you rank these?

Performance

• GPU
• CPU
• Cooling/thermals

Display

• Resolution
• Refresh rate
• OLED vs. IPS
• HDR
• Response time

Everyday use

• Portability
• Battery life
• Keyboard/trackpad
• Connectivity
• Build quality

Upgradeability

• RAM
• SSD/storage
• Wi-Fi

And the biggest question: At what point would you choose a gaming laptop instead of building a desktop?

Maybe you travel frequently. Maybe you’re heading to college. Maybe you want one machine for gaming, school, work and content creation. Or maybe you just don't want to be tied to one desk.

What would a gaming laptop need to have for you to seriously consider making the switch?

I recently got an Aorus X570 Elite Rev 1.0 motherboard alongside a Ryzen 5800 (Non-X) CPU.

The rest of the parts I took from my old working PC.

When I built the PC with the new motherboard and CPU, I attempted to power on the PC, the fans are running, the light on the GPU is lighting up but there is no display on my screen (“no signal” is the output that I see on my monitor).

Things I’ve done:
1) Verified that ram placing is good.
2) Verified that ram is installed correctly.
3) Verified that cables are properly attached.
4) Verified that GPU is properly attached.

I then thought that I should flash my motherboard in order to update it. I found my motherboard on gigabyte’s official website (https://www.gigabyte.com/ca/Motherboard/X570-AORUS-ELITE-rev-10/support#Support-Bios). Downloaded the file which I thought would be sufficient (F40) and renamed it “gigabyte.bin”. Formatted my usb to fat32. Copy pasted the “gigabyte.bin” file to my USB. Plugged my usb to the “bios” USB socket of my motherboard. Removed my CPU, GPU, etc on my motherboard - only leaving the 8 pin and 24 pin to my motherboard. Powered on my PSU and pressed the Q Flash Plus on my motherboard. The LED indicator started blinking and the fan on my motherboard started spinning. When this completed , I installed my CPU, GPU, ram, etc again. Finally, I powered on my PC again but I still get the same result.

I just wanted to verify if the Aorus X570 Elite Rev 1.0 actually supports the Ryzen 5800 (Non-X) - since I did not see it included in the list of supported CPU for the motherboard (https://www.gigabyte.com/ca/Motherboard/X570-AORUS-ELITE-rev-10/support#Support-Cpu-Support). Although the Ryzen 5800X is included in the list of supported CPU for the motherboard.

Hello everyone. This weekend I'll be upgrading my CPU from a Ryzen 5 9600X to a Ryzen 7 9800X3D. My question concerns a BIOS update for the Gigabyte B850M Gaming X WIFI6E motherboard. My BIOS version is currently F4. Is a BIOS update recommended when upgrading to a Ryzen 7 9800X3D?

I just do NOT know what to do anymore. Stuff's going on since May and destroyed my little business. Tl;dr:

13.05.2025 - bought the GPU

24.05.2026 - GPU randomly stopped working, returned on warranty

13.06.2026 - GPU is sent back with an info that "it passed the tests successfully" - it does NOT work and I return it right back away (all this is btw. being double-checked, confirmed and documented by the seller)

29.07.2026 - GPU is back again - MASSACRED like in the pictures. It works, they apparently repaired it by swapping the thermal paste (no comment) - but dude, let's respect each other, no...? They didn't even return my original box and all the documents I sent it with.

Since then - I returned it again and they proceed to ghost me. No money, no GPU, no contact.

What is going on here, guys? I just saw another post about how the Gigabyte official support destroyed someone's GPU. What do I do? Any people who work in the support here and they could help me? Are y'all aware of this?! The stuff is happening in the Gigabyte support center in Poland, Wrocław.

Hi everyone,
I’m having a strange Secure Boot problem with my Gigabyte AERO 15 OLED SA which I bought lately and then I updated from BIOS FB04 to FB09 from the Gigabyte Website. I’m hoping someone here has experience with Gigabyte/Aptio BIOS and Secure Boot key databases.
The laptop is running Windows 11 Home in UEFI mode.
Hardware / BIOS:
Laptop: Gigabyte AERO 15 OLED SA
CPU: Intel Core i7-9750H
GPU: NVIDIA GTX 1660Ti
SSD: Intel SSDPEKKW512G8, 512 GB
BIOS: American Megatrends Aptio
Current BIOS: FB09
Windows 11
The important part is that Secure Boot used to work correctly with BIOS FB04. After moving to a newer BIOS version, Secure Boot no longer works correctly.
The problem
If I enable/enroll the Factory Default Secure Boot Keys, the laptop refuses to boot Windows and shows:
Secure Boot Violation
Invalid signature detected. Check Secure Boot Policy in Setup
If I remove/clear the factory keys again, Secure Boot is effectively disabled and Windows boots normally.
So the system itself is completely functional; the problem only occurs when the Secure Boot key database is populated.
What I have already checked
Windows reports that the boot files are correctly signed.
I checked:
bootmgfw.efi
bootmgr.efi
memtest.efi
SecureBootRecovery.efi
All of them show:
Status: Valid
and are signed by:
Microsoft Windows Production PCA 2011
I also checked BitLocker. The system drive is encrypted and the TPM protector is present.
The BIOS detects the NVMe SSD correctly and the boot priority shows:
Windows Boot Manager (INTEL SSDPEKKW512G8)
The system is also definitely booting in UEFI mode.
BIOS Secure Boot / Security settings
The BIOS has the option:
Enroll all Factory Default Keys
However, after enrolling the factory keys, Secure Boot rejects the Windows bootloader with the “Invalid signature detected” error.
Interestingly, if I do not enroll the factory keys, the laptop boots Windows normally.
Other BIOS information
SATA mode is:
AHCI
The NVMe configuration correctly detects:
INTEL SSDPEKKW512G8 – 512.1 GB
I also checked the BIOS settings under Advanced. Nothing unusual seems to be enabled that should prevent normal Windows UEFI booting.
One thing that makes this especially strange
FB04 worked correctly with Secure Boot.
So I’m wondering if something changed in the Secure Boot implementation, key database, PK/KEK/db configuration, or firmware between FB04 and the newer BIOS versions.
Could this be a BIOS bug or an incompatibility in the Secure Boot key database?
Is there a way to inspect or reset the PK / KEK / db / dbx variables properly on this particular Gigabyte BIOS without simply enrolling the factory defaults?
I’m also wondering whether the newer BIOS might contain outdated/wrong Secure Boot certificates or whether the firmware is somehow rejecting a valid Microsoft signature. I do also not see any option in my BIOS to activate Secure Boot.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I can provide screenshots of the BIOS Secure Boot settings, msinfo32, manage-bde -status, and the certificate/signature information if that helps. Does anyone of you maybe have the original BIOS FB04 Dump, so I can downgrade to that or do you know any other solutions?
Thank you very much for your help. 🙏

Summer Fest was a good one, Canada!🔥

A huge thank you to everyone who came out and spent the day with us at Canada Computers!

We had a ton of community members jump into our monitor workshops to get hands-on with our OLED lineup and learn more about what makes OLED such a great fit for gaming.

Then it was time to put the setups to the test 👀

We had plenty of players jump into Meccha Chameleon on AORUS-powered systems, and things got even more competitive when DaPoets joined us to play with the crowd. Players got the chance to go head-to-head with him as the Hunter while showing off their best Chameleon skills.

And of course... the raffles. 🎟️

The crowd brought the energy, and it was awesome seeing so many members of the AORUS community come out, participate, and walk away with some seriously good hardware.

🏆 Some of the prizes included:

• AMD Radeon RX 9000 Series GPUs
• GIGABYTE MO27Q28G OLED Monitors
• X870E X3D + AMD Ryzen X3D CPU bundles
• Canada Computers gift cards

Seeing the community come together, try out the hardware, compete, and celebrate some wins was easily one of our favorite parts of Summer Fest.

Thanks again to everyone who stopped by. ❤️

Who was there? What was your favorite part of the event? Which store did you visit?

Why the hell all pc parts starts to have anime girls all over it back in the day there was tech demo photos hell even free game bundles with gpus pc parts are going downhill.

You’re building your ideal gaming PC, but there’s a catch: one of these has to go.

A. High-end GPU
B. High-end CPU
C. 32GB+ of RAM
D. Fast NVMe storage
E. High-refresh-rate monitor

You can’t upgrade around it. Whatever you choose is gone from the build.

What are you giving up, and how would you compensate for it?

For example, would you rather run a high-end GPU with a mid-range CPU, or sacrifice GPU performance for a better CPU? Would you give up a high-refresh-rate monitor if it meant putting more money into your actual PC?

Drop your pick below and tell us your reasoning! Bonus points for building the most cursed PC possible around your choice.

I recently got a new Gigabyte Gaming A16 5th. I immediately installed omarchy on the boot and now my keyboard is stuck in this bright blue which is very annoying. I tried to fix it using openrgb. It didn't work. I even installed windows on an external drive. And tried to fix it, but it still didn't work. Now, I don't know what to do.

Hi all.

I wanted to upgrade my OS to Windows 11 and had to update the firmware of bios to enable TPM 2.0. After flashing the motherboard with the new firmware, computer won't boot.

1) When I start the computer, it display black screen with single white "-" for 20 seconds

2) Briefly shows Gigabyte Motherboard screen but no keys work. DEL won't let me get into BIOS. F8 nothing.

3) It froze at the Windows 10 signin screen.

4) After removing CMOS battery and repluggin the memory sticks, now I get Windows Recover screen. (see attached.)

What do I do???? Please help!

Which update would I go with? The aorus one seems to b a bit behind, but at the same time, idk how much u should trust new updates. Thoughts? IK eventually ill have to update being that I'm still on F14/2CB5 from 2021, but my pc runs fine atm. My motherboard ports also face down in my Hyte Revolt 3 case, so pressing the button isnt the most convenient thing to do. Ik it seems im giving excuses, but ngl Im just scared to update n have the chance that i bork my pc.

We all know the benchmark numbers.

But when you actually install a new GPU and launch your favorite game, what makes you immediately feel like the upgrade was worth it?

Is it finally being able to push everything to Ultra?

Going from 1080p to 1440p or 4K?

Turning on ray tracing without watching your FPS disappear?

Getting better 1% lows and smoother gameplay?

Or maybe it’s something less obvious, like being able to run your games while streaming, recording, using multiple monitors, or working on creative projects without your system struggling.

For those who have recently upgraded their GPU:

What did you upgrade from → what did you upgrade to → and what was the biggest difference you noticed?

We're especially curious about people who made a big generational jump versus someone who made a smaller upgrade.

Was it worth it?

And if you could go back and upgrade a different component instead, would you?

Hi so i have a issues with my gigabyte A16 3VH not detecting the nvidia gpu anymore??? I bought it around a months ago now and recently i had my perf being not really good and decided to check the laptop and its was saying its was using the amd ryzen and not the geforce anymore?? When i first had it its was saying it was using it but now it doesnt and i tried a few stuff but it didnt do anything if anyone could help me id be grateful!!!

Hi, my memory of my card is very hot, 76 degrees on the deskop and 100 ingame and sometimes 104... i HAVE to replace thermal pad and thermal paste, but which thermal pads is the best and how much millimeters? thanks a lot guys.