Anything you would like to publish? Volume 1 has not yet been published, you may therefore give any papers you write. If you are interested, ask for the template article.

I am having a difficult time getting very accurate ph reading with my Taylor kit. Reading the colors. Any actual meter that gives a reading.

In this tutorial, I show how chemical waste from gold refining can be recycled in order to produce nitric acid for processing more gold.

several university level chemistry books that have content on hydrazine and working with it in the lab emphasize the risk of explosions when distilling the anhydrous hydrazine. And a few of them also mention explosions regarding the aqueous solutions as well.

I am going by memory

Hi everyone,

I'm setting up a home laboratory to practice chemistry as a hobby and to learn more about it, as I plan to study Chemistry at university in the future.

I’ve already bought basic glassware and equipment (PPE, pipettes, beakers, graduated cylinders, an electric hot plate, etc.) and a few reagents:

H₂O₂ (50%)

NaOH

CuSO₄

Citric acid

However, I realized I don't really know any interesting projects I could do with this current setup, and I would love to get some recommendations if possible.

Besides the chemistry equipment, my dad has a workshop, so I also have access to various materials like brake fluid, paint thinner, kerosene, a bench power supply, and other common tools(and uncommun too).

Thanks in advance

(Note: I translated this using AI, so please excuse any minor language errors).

Hello all!

I am sort of new in the amateur home chemistry department and I have a question for all the rotovap experts out there. How do you clean off your vacuum grease when you're done so that it doesn't contaminate your end product?

I use a silicone vacuum grease and when I'm done I take a paper towel and coat it in isopropyl alcohol which I use to break up the grease so it's easily wiped up and removed, then I go over the opening again with a fresh and dry paper towel to remove any remaining grease + unevaporated iso. Is there any other tips or tricks you guys do?

the old trick of using a rubber dam to press filter cakes cam be updated to modern times using plastic wrap

You hou, i am looking for a replacmen/substitute for lab grease. Specifically in distillation. I know it has to be temperature resistant and inert to chemicals. Live in the eu. Thx in advance

qualifications-admin in school
Want to setup a great chemistry lab we only have empty space some tables and few chemicals I want to create a lab where student can do interesting experiments and explore chemistry but unable to find anyone recently .Got connected to company which are only selling table for chemistry they don’t have any experience I want to connect with people who can help setup and guide us to build a premium
Lab need some guidance

our other nicer rotovap unfortunately had an accident where the condenser was cracked, so this temporary solution was rigged up with a different drive unit that does not come with a condenser. a simple cold trap is placed between the pump and unit. the only downside to this is that the cold trap is not heavy duty and thus evaporation must be ran slower to condense all solvent vapor. cold-finger and coil condensers typically have a higher capacity to remove heat, which is why modern rotovaps do so (as well as being convenient)
this type of configuration is quite convenient in many cases (such as the teflon tube being plumbed out the side of a fumehood so the evaporator may be mounted inside without taking much space as the trap is on the outside) and especially if you build your own rotovap using a stirrer bearing because it eliminates the need for setting up a dedicated condenser
in a future post such a DIY rotovap may be described but the design and fabrication of one is trivial to those who are mechanically inclined

Hi everyone,
I’m trying to make my own silver clay because I want to eventually make a silver ring for my girlfriend, but I’ve been struggling badly with the binder.
My starting material is metallic silver that I’ve converted/recovered and dried. I’m trying to combine the silver powder with carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) and water to make a workable clay/paste that can later be dried and sintered.
I’ve tried several approaches:
• Adding a CMC solution slowly to the silver powder.
• Drying the silver first and then mixing it into an already-prepared CMC solution.
• Mixing the CMC and silver as dry powders before adding water.
• Adding CMC gradually to the silver/water mixture.
The main problem is ALWAYS the same: the CMC forms small hydrated lumps/clumps. These lumps seem to grab silver particles, become very thick/hard, and I end up with little pieces of CMC-rich material throughout the paste instead of a homogeneous clay.
I’ve also noticed that my silver powder is somewhat dark/grey, and the resulting paste looks darker than commercial silver clay, so I’m wondering whether the state of the silver matters — metallic silver vs silver oxide, particle size, particle morphology, etc.
My questions are:
1. What is the best way to hydrate CMC without creating these lumps?
2. Would methyl cellulose be better than CMC for silver clay?
3. Is it better to prepare a very dilute binder solution first and then incorporate the silver powder?
4. Does the particle size/morphology of the silver powder matter a lot?
5. Should I be using metallic silver powder, or is silver oxide ever used as the starting material?
6. For someone trying to make a workable DIY silver clay, what binder system would you recommend?
I’m particularly interested in advice from anyone who has actually made homemade silver/metal clay rather than just commercial PMC/Art Clay.
I’m trying to get a smooth, homogeneous clay that doesn’t contain little CMC gel lumps.
Thanks!
Also i face problema with the texture that turns shewing gum like some times, and it keeps puffing up when anhilated i think its be cause of cmc decompoaition

I extracted nicotine from cigarets pretty cool project

I’ve been trying to order chemicals for a project at home, but I’ve ran into problems ordering because they’ll only ship to a commercial address. I unfortunately work from home so I can’t ship it to my “work”. Anyone else run into this issue?

Wondering if anyone would be interested in buying off some of my Tygon tubings. They’re brand new not opened, and they’re hard to come by!!! I have a good number of stock! Each box has 500ft of tubing in them enough to supply a home lab for a lifetime, asking for 175 usd each + shipping

Size .02x.06”
EBay link: https://ebay.io/m/XWRELt

Hello, I’ve been thinking about making a web fluid shooter (like Spider-Mans one), but when I’ve seen the options for making web fluid I’m a little confused. Some of them look let’s say bad, and the most popular combo is Fabri-Tac + Acetone/nail polish remover. I thought it looked really cool but when I asked ChatGPT it said that it’s dangerous for skin and eyes and breathing it in may cause heavy health problems and if I really want to use it then only outside. What do you guys think? Is it actually dangerous? Is there a safer also good looking alternative? Also of course I wanna make that light web that floats in the air, not a strong web to hold a person lol. Thanks for any advice!

Edit: I let go of web shooters and I’m making my own JARVIS lmao. Thanks for y’alls help!

Any recommendations for a good electrolysis?