Here's another one that's out the door. Used 80CRV2 and natural micarta for this one with a little bit of a different rock texturing on the handle.
Let me know what you think!
Thanks for looking!
AW Forge

Got these shined up and took proper photos today! Let me know what you think

Its a compact 6.75" deepish carry fixed-blade pocket knife. I named it Thorn

Scalf Ridge Thorn

1084, G10 (1 Richlite)

S90V with false edge clip point and spine jimping for added dopeness. Handle is Grip-Tec and stainless. It's thin and mean, hope you like it!

16" OAL

36" radius hollow grind

8670 steel

Mammoth bone and double dyed maple burl

Feedback welcome

This just came up for sale in our local marketplace. I am just collecting some starter tools, but this sounded like a really good deal able to do heat treating after I do stock removal. It’s only $30.

I had a customer ask me to make him a custom knife. He chose my model- the Gremlin, and he specifically said that he wanted it for hunting. He also said he wanted it specifically southwest themed and I think I delivered. This was a real fun build with some unique materials- Mexican blanket Gcarta, bocote hardwood native to Mexico, white/ gold webbed Trustone, and mosaic pins. Steel is AEBL stainless. All of it wrapped up in a Navajo kydex blanket 🔪

Wanted to make something special for the NSW cutlerd Expo.

1084 and 15n20 damascus blade with an absurd amount of hollow grinds, cause i can.

Spacer is Mokume but the hammer texture i went for pretty much obscured it completly.

And some awesome Spalted She-Oak for the handle and Saya

Steel and spacer made in Collaboration with Standen Knives

13c26 58hrc // abs orange // <60mm blade

Handmade in Finland.

First stock removal or knife in general. Play on a bunka I didn't have enough width with the 1084 I had so I made like a hybrid. Got a little beat up in the fire learning but I think I figured it out after a little trail and error

Miquelon

7" overall length with a 3" blade. Made from cpm Magnacut steel with Olive G10 bolsters, blade orange G10 and Olive G10 spacers, and Olive canvas micarta scales with brass pin/tube.

Thanks for looking, please let me know what you think.

**books are open**

Have a knife day

How thick should aluminium plates be for air quenching ?

Finished everything but the sheaths and sharpening on these little fixed blades today. Blades are absolutely smeared with knife wax and some tape residue currently.

1084 will start getting a patina at even the thought of moisture! So ive started coating them with wax with any little breaks at all lol.

I named this the Thorn. Scalf Ridge Thorn

1084, G10 scales (one Richlite)

Camp kitchen knife I made back in 2021.

Home made glowing handle scales.

1084 steel.

This was a bit of an experiment mixing some glow powder into some green leather paint....worked better than I expected

Hello all,

I'm very new to sharpening.
I have an RWL-34 Skiving Knive used to skive leather (un thicken it).
The blade is already razor sharp.

I need your help to build a stropping set :

1 : Should I use the suede or grain side of the strop? I can also sand the grain side which sounds like a great middle ground between both, but you know better.
2 : 1 micron or 6 micron diamond compound for my specific use which again is "skiving leather" ?

Thank you all for your help!

I’m having trouble when it comes to grinding the final bevel after heat treatment. This was the last knife I made a few months ago. The tip is a little bit rounded because I wore off the point when I was grinding the bevel.

Basically I put it on a jig, so the angle is consistent but every time I get to the point of the knife, it tends to get thinner much faster than the rest of the edge. Eventually the point gets worn away. What am I doing wrong? I’ve tried putting the knife edge flat on the jig(handle to tip wise) and pulled straight across. I’ve tried to put it on an angle to simulate following the curved edge like you do in freehand grinding.

The only thing I found that helps is I stop grinding when I get close to the tip of the knife and only pull all the way to the tip every few passes. I’m getting really good at making brisket slicers lol.

I was using a 2x42 with 3500rpm 3600sfm, so it might have been moving pretty fast.
Now that I have my 2x72 with 1750rpm, 1800sfm I can make slower passes and really focus on my form. I can even reduce it further to 1300sfm.

I made a kitchen knife a while back and the wood handle needs to be refinished. What is the best sealant/finishing to put on a frequently used kitchen knife that is durable enough for frequent use?

16" OAL

36" radius hollow grind

8670 steel

Mammoth bone and double dyed maple burl

Feedback welcome

Continuing my path into odd commissions... anyone ever heard of or seen a "trapper" knife. Or a knife like this by any other name? The idea is that the blunt tip is run underneath the hide of small game making precise cuts when keeping the pelt pristine is the goal. Kinda like a giant guthook but not really....

Ive never heard of one. Never seen one. Worked with a really cool guy I met in my booth at a market to bring his idea to life.

While one of the ugliest knives ive ever seen... I hope its useful at its intended purpose.

Thoughts?