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(this is the long-delayed first installment in my post series, The Chemistry Behind The Clean, a guide to what's in laundry detergent, designed to give people the knowledge to understand what's in the products that clean our textiles and make them more informed consumers)
What Are Surfactants, And Why Do We Care?
Surfactants are the active cleaning agents in detergents that do the heavy lifting of removing soils from textiles. Short for “surface-acting agents”, surfactants connect soils to water, even when the soils themselves repel water or are more attracted to textiles than water. The combination of soil and detergent and water can then be drained off, further diluted by rinsing, drained again and spun out. This is distinct from the action of soaps, which will be covered in a future installment.
The development and commercialization of synthetic surfactants in the 1920s is probably the most significant contributor to reduction in time and effort spent on textile care. Work to condition the water, scrub textiles and remove soap by wringing or banging was largely eliminated because of how well even those rudimentary surfactants work to remove soils.
Hydrophobia - Without The Rabies
All surfactants work because the individual molecules have ends with distinct properties. One end (the head) is highly attracted to water (hydrophilic) and thus very much not attracted to oil (oleophobic). The other end is very attracted to oil (oleophilic) but similarly repulsed by water (hydrophobic). This fundamental structural contrast is key.
A Surfactant Molecule, With Hydrophobic Tail and Hydrophilic Head
When at least a minimum amount of surfactant is dissolved in a solvent (like water), surfactant molecules want to get together - the water-hating ends hang out on the inside, the water-loving ends hang out on the outside. This forms a structure known as a micelle, and micelle formation is predicated on reaching the “Critical Micelle Concentration”. Below, an illustration of a nonionic surfactant intended to remove oily soils. The water-loving heads face out, the water-hating ends get together in the middle to escape the water.
A Micelle Of Nonionic Surfactant
When a micelle encounters a soil that the hydrophobic tail is attracted to, the micelle breaks up, the tails grab the soil and drag it into the water (thus removing it from the textile) and the micelle re-forms, keeping the soil up in the water to be drained or diluted away. Let’s look at this in the context of removing a common soil from textiles:
Here we have the start of the wash process; surfactant micelles have formed in the wash water and there is soil attached to the fabric substrate.
The Start of The Wash - Soiled Fabric In A Detergent Solution
Now the hydrophobic tails of the surfactant molecules have found themselves more attracted to soil than each other and they're bonding to the soils. The hydrophillic heads are dragging the molecules towards the water.
Surfactants Attaching To Soil
The micelles re-form as the soil detaches from the substrate - they reorganize into groups of their own kind (more on this in a moment).
Micelles Reforming With Soil-Surfactant Particles
When all the soils are removed from the substrate and floating in the water, the textiles are clean and it's time to remove the soil-surfactant combo from the drum.
Completely Clean Textile
The Chemistry of Attraction (It’s Not Just A Bottle of Chanel No. 5)
While all surfactants work the same general way, there are differences in what kind of soils the hydrophilic ends are attracted to, because the hydrophilic ends differ. One primary difference between surfactants is the electrical charge the hydrophilic end carries. If the business end has a negative charge, it’s an anionic surfactant, and it’s attracted to soils with a cationic (positive) charge. If the business end has no charge, it’s a nonionic surfactant and is most attracted to soils without an electrical charge. If the business end has both a positive and negative charge in balance, it’s an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, and the behavior changes based on the pH of the wash as a whole.
There are also surfactants with positive charges, the cationic surfactants. These aren’t used for cleaning - they’re what makes fabric softener work, and will be discussed in a (much) later post.
Why Charge Matters:
The difference in which soils a given surfactant is attracted to is a critical determinant of cleaning performance. Soils that lack an ionic charge like petroleum oils or intact sebum are much less visible to anionic surfactants and are removed better by nonionic surfactants. Conversely, soils that are highly cationic like soot and mud and dust, and thus attracted to textiles with a negative charge may be neglected by nonionics and remain electrically connected to the textiles. For those soils? Anionics in the mix improve cleaning performance.
Four Classes Of Surfactants
Almost all finished detergent products contain anionic surfactants and most contain nonionic surfactants. Amphoteric surfactants are relatively uncommon in conventional detergents but often appear in green/biobased formulas.
Other Differences Between Surfactants: Tail Length And Single vs Double Tails.
Aside from the electrical charge differences in the head, two aspects of surfactant structure that affect their action against soil are the tail length and whether they are single tail (common) or double-tail (less common). I’ll talk more about this in Part II, as it’s common to include surfactants of various tails to optimize performance against specific soils and in specific wash conditions.
Coming Up In Surfactants Part II - Curling Up With A Good Jug Of Detergent
In the next installment, we’ll look at common surfactants found in conventional and plant-based detergents, and how they’re manufactured, along with the differences in soil removal capabilities and environmental impacts.
The work is my original work and I retain copyiright. My financial disclosure information and how I get paid for this work can be found at my disclosure link
Psa: Don’t read the scrud post in here if you arent ready to take apart your washer!
Did the citric acid rinse and immediately saw scrud, 3 cycles later, it was only getting worse. I did what everyone who has ever noticed scrud in their washer wants to do, and took apart the washer and cleaned all this up.
This washer was apparently new a few years ago, inherited from family. They were all free & useless users, overloaded on detergent, and after smelling the scrud I suspect they were using Gain fabric softener.
Here are some satisfying before and after photos!
For the experts: how long do you think cleaning this up would have taken had I just continued to do citric acid washes? How long until I saw jennifer lopez?
I've been waiting for something like this which has both DNase and lipase but no protease/subtilisin for wool items in particular, so I'm looking forward to trying it!
Longtime lurker. Forgive me if this has been asked multiple times. I have checked to see if there has been a Megathread established about this. I see a lot of you post about Tide Clean & Gentle and FEBU.
I as well as my toddler both have sensitive eczema prone skin and while using EWG as guideline for some products, I have found that a lot of “cleaner” detergents don’t get out stains or perfumes out very well.
I also am wanting to make sure our laundry is cleaned properly bc my partner and I are healthcare workers. I usually would wash all of the hospital items with Tide color bleach especially after COVID.
For regular clothes I have been using Package Free from Costco with Oxiclean Versatile but with a little learning from this sub, I’ve realized I need to have lipase with my detergent.
I added pictures of my current detergent at the end with an ingredient list.
posting a small win, after being homeless for a few years we moved into supportive housing a little over 3 years ago. we were happy doing laundry in the communal laundry room offered here because at least we were able to do it. there were lots of rules, they only opened between certain hours and your clothes randomly would get locked in by other residents. ultimately no one followed the rules so people always washed the grossest stuff and never took care of the washers + people always messed with your stuff. we really had no other choice but were still grateful . welllll, our apartment complex suddenly decided to buy washers & dryers for the family units and ours got installed today!!!! i’m SO excited. i have a 1.5 year old and the laundry is NO JOKE
I’ve been refreshing Garame’s website daily for over a week in anticipation of this (and decided to do so again a couple minutes ago given it’s just past midnight Australian time) and wondrous refresh pull, there it was! I’m down to the last third of my last small bottle of Gear Guard Original as well, with no more fragrance-free lipase detergent options in my city after Grabgreen changed their formula. I can anticipate my guinea pigs being very happy with their laundry in the coming future 🎉
I’ve been having not-so great results air drying clothes. I don’t have a drying rack (I know, I should get one).
My previous method was to drape my clothes over my shower rod and put a dehumidifier underneath it. If I was feeling extra snazzy, I’d put a box fan in the bathroom to help the dehumidifier’s fan along.
Space was at a premium because I could only use the length of the shower rod for drying, and shirts would take up a majority of the space. I also have only a few sets of clothes, so I do laundry every other day for a single adult (myself, I know, I need more clothes). This really led to me not wanting to launder some other things that really needed laundering, like bath towels and kitchen towels-disgusting! And even with the fan and dehumidifier going, it would take the night to dry properly in the bathroom.
Enter… my new method! I just hang clothes in the closet, place the fan and dehumidifier in there, crack the door, and forget about them for an hour and they’re dry. Much faster than the previous method. Much better savings on power. And I still get to enjoy not having to destroy my clothes in the machine dryer. Plus, I get new-found bathroom space every time I do laundry! So that’s pretty neat. Hope this solves someone else’s drying problems as well.
Costco was handing out free samples of the tide Evo tiles, so I thought great. Well it's been stinking up my whole laundry area since I got it home. I'm just very averse to strong smells, nothing against the tide Evo itself, but the odor is just not for me. But I do want to try it, and I think I can buy a scent free version if I like the product. If I do use the Evo with the strong fragrance, will I be able to rinse it out of my clothes or towels? I was hoping that citric acid in the rinse would clear everything out. Thanks for your suggestions.
As I’ve mentioned in comments over the last several months, I’m tired of the quirks of 365 Sport detergent - plant-based detergents always come with a set of compromises and my willingness to fix the chemistry weaknesses of 365 Sport in my water (soft) and my interest level in “perfectly clean textiles” (high to a frankly concerning level) is waning because of the continued lack of availability and poor “universality” - people are having to work harder than I do to get it to work in slightly harder water, top loading machines, higher soil burdens - anything far off my ideal-ish setup falls off quickly and the price per load skyrockets. The juice isn’t worth the squeeze. Which is surprising, because I truly think DNase is the biggest advance in home laundry in decades, and I’ve gone to decent lengths to use it.
The main reason I’m less willing to put up with 365 Sport is that the market has provided more viable DNase sources in the US. When I started using 365 Sport, the options were Dirty Labs booster that had a wicked dissolution problem, 365 Sport, ordering Garame GearGuard from the Antipodes, grey market Ariel or going without. That has changed. Let’s take a look at the alternatives, their pluses and minuses, and how you can incorporate this enzyme, with peer-reviewed research into its efficacy, into your laundry routine without having to stalk a Whole Foods aisle on the regular. But first, a review of why you need DNase.
Getting Out Of A Sticky Situation:
DNase is a shorthand for Deoxyribonuclease, which also appears on labels as nuclease and phosphodiesterase. It’s an enzyme - a biochemical that attacks a very specific target and breaks it into smaller subunits for easier removal in the washing process. DNase targets extracellular DNA aka eDNA - meaning DNA that has left the cell nucleus and ended up somewhere it doesn’t belong. Essentially all living cells carry some amount of DNA, and there are various ways the DNA content of those cells ends up on your textiles. Sometimes it’s because the cells get physically ground in to the fiber. Sometimes it’s because bacteria or fungi get killed and rupture, and their eDNA remains on the textiles. The most common way, though, is that humans and animals excrete eDNA in skin oils and the oily component of certain kinds of sweat. All textiles worn by humans eventually accumulate eDNA. Conventional detergent removes about 30% of eDNA burden, which leads to serial buildup.
eDNA itself is an off-beige goo of exceptional stickiness - stickier than honey or molasses by far - more like uncured caulking or duct tape residue. So you can get a primary discoloration from this, especially on white fabrics. But the real problem with eDNA, per industry-sponsored research, is that it acts as an adhesive and protectant for other soils - it attracts other things to its sticky surface, and isolates them from the effects of detergents, oxidizers and other enzyme classes, and then a fresh layer of eDNA gets applied during the next wear, resulting in layers of retained soil and eDNA in a hard-to-dissolve matrix. This sticky goo can also collect inside yarns - for cellulosic fibers this just retains dirt and odor. But for synthetic fibers that rely on the combo of fiber shape and being water-repellent to offer sweat wicking, this goo gums up the channels that make the moisture transport possible, resulting in failing wicking performance over time.
So while eDNA is not the sole cause of odor, texture, color and performance defects in aging textiles, it’s one that doesn’t get targeted well by other chemistry, no matter how optimized. Once you’ve got everything else right (and I can’t emphasize the importance of this enough - DNase doesn’t fix bad wash chemistry), DNase is a bonus round that can truly make a difference you can feel, smell and see.
Washing with DNase tends to improve removal by a little more than 100%, so the removal rate exceeds the deposition rate. Industry claims are that it takes five to six washes to see the full effect of removal, which is roughly consistent with my experience with using DNase products - a big boost in the first wash, incremental improvement through the next handful, and then maintenance washing keeps them remarkable. For aging white cotton dress shirts and tees, the effect is like a time machine - textiles age in reverse. For polyester golf and athletic apparel, the difference in feel and smell is nothing less than magical - they feel factory new again, with that softer drape and better sweat handling.
The effect on darker fabrics is more subtle in terms of appearance - I don’t notice my items looking more vibrant in the way that oxygen bleach, good anti-redeposition chemistry and optical brightener can light them up, but they feel more like new and smell fantastic.
DNase works in the wash by targeting a vulnerable chemical bond on the eDNA - the fragments are more vulnerable than intact eDNA to the other ingredients in the detergent and then to mechanical action that washes the goo off. So I have not seen any evidence that soaking or handwashing is improved with DNase. It’s the penetrating oil on a rusty bolt - you still need the mechanical force of the wrench to break things loose. It’s one reason Spa Day doesn’t call for adding DNase - all of the research has involved typical international-style front-loading washer cycles - long, mechanically active, conventional washing. My hunch is that no hand washing process adds enough mechanical energy to make the improvement.
There's a video from Novonesis demonstrating how, while eDNA is a small part of soil burden, it plays this outsized role keeping soils on fabrics, and how DNase (which they generally refer to as phosphodiesterase) attacks the glue. Watch it here:
How To Get Unstuck:
Your options are in the detergent or an added booster.
Every single one of these has at least one Achilles Heel that makes them finicky, not universally acceptable or downright bad. All but the Miele are based on plant-based surfactants which raises the cost per unit of cleaning power substantially over petrochemical-based surfactants. You have to use more or supplement them with conventional-surfactant products to get good to great primary cleaning results. Anyone who tries to sell you liquid detergent that says you need less than 3mL per kg of textiles is a charlatan. Solids, it’s more like 5 grams at the low end. They’re doing it to make their cost per load look competitive with Tide, not because it’s the right amount for your problems. In recent independent testing, there was a pretty linear increase in soil removal across the board by doubling the dose of 365 Sport - it’s not that the agents couldn’t remove certain types of soils - it’s that the dose on the label based on the concentration in the jug is just comically low. I formerly fixed it by adding Biz powder to get synthetic surfactant. Other people are fixing plant-based products with a slug of Tide Free & Gentle liquid. Your detergent shouldn’t need another detergent. Plant based liquids also tend to have extremely poor water softening capabilities due to restrictions on use of certain synthetic ingredients and cost constraints, which should raise alarms for launderers with hard water or conventional top load machines, barring use of a plumbed-in softener.
Blueland has probably fixed their well-publicized former dissolution problems with this new tableting system - it’s much more likely to dissolve without human intervention. Again, though, surfactants are mild and low on the list and the tablets are comparatively small.
DadMode and Miele are both highly fragranced products, an intensely personal characteristic. Grove is less fragranced, but also unavailable in a fragrance-free.
Aunt Fannie’s core formula is "Yet Another Water Softener With A Whisper Of Expensive Plant Surfactant Powdered Green Detergent". You won’t find it in my laundry room, ever.
So maybe getting your DNase from detergent alone is a fool’s errand at this point because of the compromises inherent in the detergents’ formulae.
Enter boosters.
Currently, there’s sort of three genres of booster that contain DNase:
Oxygen bleach + DNAse
Minimalist DNase liquid
Non-Bleach Solids
Group 1 has become a crowded category with three new entrants in the last year:
FEBU Enzyme Oxygen Laundry Booster
Dirty Labs Bio-Enzyme Laundry Booster
Everneat Bright Oxygen Bleach
DadMode Heavy Duty Laundry Booster
All four have the color-safe bleaching agent sodium percarbonate as an active ingredient, same as found in OxiClean, Biz, Clorox 2 powders and most powdered laundry detergents sold by P&G in North America. Sodium percarbonate has direct stain and odor removal effects, it likely contributes to machine hygiene and it’s highly biodegradable. The challenge with percarbonate is that it’s high pH and not suitable for every load. I don’t personally use percarbonate on animal fibers like wool, cashmere and silk. There’s also substantial division in r/laundry on the effects of percarbonate on colored and dark textiles. I personally think it’s a net positive for darks because of the odor removal and chlorine neutralization benefits. Others believe it increases fading. I’m currently washing 284 loads of darks to get some data either way, but for now, know that there’s controversy about just how universally appropriate percarbonate is for darker loads.
The differences between the products are more than skin deep, though - they solve problems in different ways and have greater or lesser reliance on water temperature and the companion detergent to cover all the possible laundry bases. So here’s a comparison chart. Remember, they all have oxygen bleach, some precipitating water softener (as a process aid and performance enhancer) and DNase.
Comparison table of powdered laundry boosters with DNase
Enzymes: the other six laundry enzymes matter if three things apply: you have soils that are sensitive to them, you have fabrics that tolerate them and you’re not covering them in your detergent. Briefly protease targets proteins, amylase targets starches and sugars, lipase targets non-petroleum oils, mannanase targets thickeners in things like salad dressing and ice cream, pectate lyase targets fruit and vegetable stains, and cellulase targets damaged cotton fibers to rinse out fine lint that collects dust and optical brightener as well as visible fuzz. As a rule, they’re great in all loads except animal fibers which need to avoid protease, but most detergents have one or more. Doubling up doesn’t hurt, but if you’re getting it elsewhere it’s not adding anything.
Surfactants: They’re already in the detergent. Getting slightly different ones in your booster may improve performance. The Laureth-7 in DadMode is a good surfactant as plant-based products go, but it’s also very easy to control surfactant levels by varying your detergent dose.
Fragrance: personal preference
TAED: TAED dramatically increases the stain and odor removal capacity of a given amount of percarbonate, especially at lowish American wash temperatures (under 107F-ish), by turning the dissolved hydrogen peroxide that breaks off percarbonate into peracetic acid, a more powerful oxidizer. At the same time, it makes percarbonate riskier if it doesn’t dissolve completely, and it has a whiff of its own during the wash process that evaporates on drying. I like TAED and I’m very careful with it to never let dry powders that contain TAED linger on damp textiles. If you’re of the belief that in-wash oxidizers contribute to fading of darks, you have to ask if the peracetic acid formed by percarbonate, water and TAED is better or worse than percarbonate and water alone. I don’t have that answer and it’s not in my wash series to answer. Yet.
Polyitaconic Acid Salts: these are biopolymers that have been wedded to zinc salts to neutralize sulfurous odors like the degraded proteins in sweat and other human / pet emissions. They’re effective, highly biodegradable, skin-compatible and genuinely an incremental improver.
Sequestrant Water Softeners: these lock up calcium and magnesium in wash water to improve cleaning performance without increasing the risk of residue like precipitating softeners. In a booster product they’re going to both get what’s in the wash, and, with what carries over to the rinse, help with rinse water hardness to some extent. There is reasonable published evidence that these sequestrants specifically help prevent odor rebloom from sebum residues left on textiles. So it’s another line of defense. Most powdered detergents don’t use citrate chemistry - they use other chelators to get the same effects, so this could be of incremental benefit to both powder and liquid users.
There is a potential fifth competitor here: Defunkify’s Odor & Stain Removing Laundry Booster. The problem is, I can’t get a consistent answer on what’s in it. Their SDS, package and marketing materials don’t agree. If they’d like to get their shit together and provide consistent ingredient disclosures between the package, the website, the SDS and their third-party ingredient disclosure site, I’d be delighted to include them, but I honestly can’t tell which version is the truth. This has been an ongoing issue for over a year; I’ve had multiple email exchanges with customer support and looked at the physical packages on two different occasions trying to read the tea leaves. It shouldn’t be that complicated to figure out what goes in the stuff that touches your skin. Hence their omission for now.
Dirty Labs has solved their previous dissolution problems according to recent comments in r/Laundry and a very cogent, candid explanation by one of their formulators.
Group 2 is a field of two: Garame Cleaning Company’s GearGuard and GearGuard Advanced liquids. They’re water, enzyme and a few parts per million of a preservative to protect against microbial growth in manufacture, shipping and storage. GearGuard is DNase solo, GearGuard Advanced is DNase and lipase. They’re safe for any water-washable fabric, they have no fragrance or oxygen bleach, they don’t shift pH but they cover one or two enzyme gaps.
Group 3 is a field of one at the present. Dropps makes their Odor Eraser Laundry Additive pods. They’re precipitating water softener, the same polyitaconic zinc salts as some of the Group 1 products, fragrance and an “proprietary odor fighter” that is most likely a plant source antioxidant. The pH is higher than I would trust on wool, silk and cashmere, but this product doesn’t contain an oxidizer. They do expect the rest of your enzyme needs to come from the detergent. These only come in pod form.
The Future of DNase:
Novonesis, the Danish biotech that makes the most common DNase used in laundry has just introduced a bunch of new liquid enzyme premixes that include DNase, so if I’m reading the tea leaves right here, there’s likely going to be more liquid detergents coming down the pike with DNase built in, including some that may have just subtilisin+DNase, trending towards an economy formulation.
How To Decide:
All of these products likely deliver an effective dose of DNase at their label instructions (it takes a truly tiny amount - single-digit milligrams per wash load). It’s what else they bring to the party (or leave behind) that distinguishes them. Pick and choose which makes the most sense for the gaps you need to cover. If you use a liquid base detergent and could use some percarbonate, consider one of the powdered boosters. If you use a powdered detergent that already comes with percarbonate, you could consider the liquids and slightly reduce your detergent dose.
Ultimately, price may be the deciding factor for a lot of users. Total cost of everything I want in the load is one determinant of how I cover gaps. Retail pricing is variable as hell, but let’s take a look based on today (August 2026), using the instruction-label dose per load, in increasing order of delivered price from the manufacturer website for as close as possible to 100 medium wash loads. I priced without using subscription incentives. I included the three plant-based liquid detergents (365 Sport, Grove and DadMode) as a booster option - at the label doses for small to medium loads, you likely get enough enzyme to handle larger loads (because of the nature of how enzymes work, presence and time are a bigger factor than dose), and using them this way with some conventional-surfactant detergent for cleaning power has been successful for many Redditors.
Price comparison of popular booster choices
What I Use In My Laundry:
For what it’s worth, I am completely done with 365 Sport when the present jug runs out. I personally don’t care about plant-based vs petrochemical surfactants from a safety or environmental perspective, a topic I’ll cover in way more depth in the upcoming installment of my explainers about detergent ingredients. Amazon/WFM has had plenty of time to increase supply to match demand and their shelf space, and it’s not a great enough product to deal with the hassle. For a few months, I’ve been using a conventional-surfactant liquid off the Lipase List that did well in Jeeves’ testing, and using Gear Guard or Febu as my mood dictates. I’ve been using GearGuard consistently on animal fibers for a year or so, now pairing it with a Nopa Nordic-sourced wool wash (Eco Freude from Rossmann, very similar to Steamery Delicates).
Copyright, AI and Financial Disclosure:This post is mine, just like all Reddit posts belong to their creators, and reuse or derivative works other than personal use require licensing from the author. No AI is ever used to create, edit or format my text - I write in Markdown and barely use spell-check. Nobody has paid me a dime to write this or be included as a product. My financial disclosure, including how I handle samples, prerelease products and industry money is posted here.
Three and two weeks ago I managed to get some last batches of the formula with DNase still. Went today and saw the same new formula without DNase that other people were finding.
I shop at a border town so I guess it’s new stock that finally got to us as well. Boo. No idea if it’s just as good; I won’t bother to try if I can use other alternatives that contain DNase and/or more cleansing power (German Ariel and Lenor sensitiv powder).
I'm nearing the point of wanting to toss absolutely everything. My cotton undershirt tank tops, polyester summer shirts, workout tops. Even my favourite merino t-shirt is starting to be permanently ripe, which I didn't know possible. It's not just rebloom. Many of them smell straight out of the wash.
Right now my laundry is just basic unscented detergent.
I'm in Canada (Quebec) and really don't have the funds to be spending a small fortune on imported liquid gold. Do you have any suggestions for me?
Some but not all of my “good” or “going out” t-shirts end up forming small holes in the stomach area. I posted 3 photos but it has happened to a few more.
And it doesn’t take long - the Mickey Mouse tee I only wore like thrice when I saw the hole. I end up wearing them at home a lot so these look worn out. It doesn’t happen to all my going out t-shirts. It never happens to my workout t-shirts. It also didn’t happen to my $3 t-shirts that I specifically got to wear to sleep. I have changed houses multiple times so I have used multiple washing machines where this has happened.
But any idea why? The only explanation I have so far is that it rubs across my pants/jeans button but that is difficult to explain why it doesn’t wear out my other types of tops or even all t-shirts.
Maybe you folks can help me? I can't figure out how to get my LG HE front loader to clean breastfed poop out of diapers. Breastfed poop is supposed to be water soluble but two full wash cycles and they still have poop chunks!
My LG washing machine is telling me it’s due for a tub clean (cycle clean) and I’ve done this 3 times now but haven’t add anything in it I just put it on the clean mode.
Should I be adding anything to it when it requires the cleaning mode on?
I got a new dress for my anniversary and it's hand wash only. I normally sacrifice my clothing to the washing machine gods and survival of the fittest decides things so I'm not terribly confident in what I'm doing. It's a 95% polyester and 5% elastane blend. It's a velvety texture and has glitter on it and I'm terrified of ruining it but I know I won't be comfortable if I don't wash it before wearing it out.
Google said I could use baby shampoo in place of wool light so I was wondering if someone could tell me if that’s correct.
It also said that once you’re done rinsing it, you’re supposed to lay it out on a towel and then roll that towel up like a sleeping bag and press down to soak up some of the water and I wanna make sure that that’s not going to cause any damage.
And last but not least, Google said to lay it out on a flat surface and leave it to dry, I’m wondering if I am able to hang the dress or if that will cause it to lose shape from the weight of the wet fabric. I really don’t have a good place to be able to lay the dress out and leave it for hours on end to dry without risking it getting dirty or damaged in someway so I would prefer to hang it if possible.
