I have a a negative, full head and shoulder, mask mold. I would like to make a few masks from it. I have experience (long ago) slush casting with neoprene. This thing is pretty big and would take a lot of neoprene to fill. I would rather cast it in silicone. Is that possible with a plaster mold? I am pretty confident that the original masks where latex. I imagine that I will have to clean the mold pretty thoroughly and then spray it with some sort of release. Any advice?

The mold is in two pieces. Do I do the front and back separately and somehow stick them together or is there a way to do it as one piece?

Hello everybody! I need to make surface imperfections for my mold in CATIA

sort of like Wrinkles on leather for my mold so that shape takes in the sort of the molds

I need this to be very natural and small. For example a PS5 controller. You see the surface imperfections on it? That is what I need as small as it can be but random shaped.
I wonder how I can do it?

Trying to diy a modl band with a 3d printed mold and some two part silicon, and i made a simple flat plastic mold the is split in half so the band could be removed later.

but every time i try to mold it i get bubbles in the top part of the mold. tried a bunch of methods to fix it with no luck

thanks for reading!

I’m looking for a reliable way to permanently seal/bond a small hole in cured platinum-cure Shore A10 silicone.

The silicone part is a thin, hollow, flexible ball that is repeatedly squeezed, compressed, and stretched, so the bond needs to:

• adhere very strongly to cured platinum silicone
• remain flexible
• survive repeated squeezing/compression without peeling or cracking
• ideally be airtight
• preferably work as a liquid/dip-coating or small-drop application

I’ve tried looking for silicone adhesives, but many products are not easily available in my country.

Has anyone successfully bonded or sealed cured platinum silicone under repeated mechanical stress? What adhesive, primer, RTV silicone, or surface treatment would you recommend?

Hi I’m a beginner trying to make a mold of and XL cowrie shell. I’m worried that the hollow back may be a problem. What would be the best to mold this?

Thanks for the help

Hi everyone! I’m working with Smooth-On 2-part polyurethane soft/expanding foam and mixing relatively large batches — several liters of raw material at a time.

I’m looking at these two mixers from Ferba:

• Green Meenee (propeller): https://www.ferba.it/attrezzature-601/green-meenee-mixer.php
• Turbine Mixer: https://www.ferba.it/attrezzature-601/turbine-mixer.php

The Green Meenee is specifically described as suitable for fast-curing materials like Foam-iT! and FlexFoam-iT!, but I’m wondering whether the turbine mixer would be more appropriate for larger batches.

Until now, I've been using a metal bit for mixing paint and not getting a fully homogenous solution with the 30sec working time.

Has anyone here used either of these with FlexFoam-iT or similar polyurethane foams? Which would you recommend, and why?

Main priorities are thorough mixing and being able to handle several liters efficiently. Don't care about trapping bubbles at all.

Thanks!

I’m interested in making a mold of a piece of chocolate so that I can recreate it. I have seen food safe liquid silicone and silicone putty but am unsure if these would work on chocolate. I was wondering if these products get hot while curing, melting the chocolate, or if the fats, sugars, and other things in it would inhibit the curing.

Wanted to see if I would be able to make a mold out of this.can't find anything about it thanks

Built a small browser app that takes an uploaded model and generates a print-ready two-part box mold or silicone mold box (keys, pour spout, vents) automatically, aimed at people who don't want to hand-model a mold box in CAD every time. It's free, client-side, no signup.

Since this sub actually knows moldmaking, I'd love brutally honest feedback: where does the auto-generated parting line or undercut handling fall short on real geometry? Not trying to replace real CAD skill — just trying to save the boring 80% of box-building.

I’m in plastic distribution and fabrication and I am looking for a frame grade acrylic manufacture that also offers hard coating services.

If you also do cell cast acrylic in clear and colors I’m also interested.

I’ve been wanting to cosplay Leeloo from Fifth Element for years and finally decided to get around to making it. My primary concern is with her silcone/rubber suspenders. I plan to use dragon skin but I’ve never worked with it before. I’m not sure what’s the best material to make a cast mold for a project like this and what would result in the cleanest outcome. Any recommendations?

Hey guys, I’m having a hard time finding a reliable silicone mold maker. I’m looking for someone in Delhi, Noida, or nearby areas who can make good-quality silicone molds.

If you know any mold maker or have worked with someone reliable, please share their contact/details. It would really help!

Thanks in advance!

I always hate stacking four pieces of whatever to make walls, and finding ways to fix it all together (without legos lol). This past project I scored one side of corrugated sign material! Hot Glued one edge and the bottom. Isopropyl alcohol helped the glue let go afterwards. I was able to get a large sheet for $10 at Lowes!

I just joined this group in hopes to find some help. I understand the very basics of mould making and casting, but I don’t know where to start with this sculpture I just finished (Approx two feet tall?). Between the protruding ears, the finer strands of the mane, and the angle of the head, I’m not sure what the best method would be to tackle this. I’m really hoping to do this myself as I was quoted a couple thousand dollars and a six month wait to have someone make a mould for me. I think my two best options for the finalized cast are to use either gypsum cement or do a cold cast bronze, or both? Any suggestions or advice is welcome

Made a mold and didn’t use enough reserve. Any solvent I can use to remove the silicone from the details to try again? Smoot-on mold Max 30, tin cure. all suggestions welcome, thanks

Hello! First-time molder here.

I have a puppy-paw imprint that was given by a cremation company, but it’s super undignified in a yellow play-dough looking air-dry clay. I am not 100% sure if it’s sulfur based but I don’t want to risk any damage to the paw if it is.

I want to mold it using a tin-cure silicone (any brand recs are welcome for the finest detail).

Additionally, I am looking for a proper sealant I can mist on the paw in layers to prevent cure inhibition that might be caused by the clay material. (Something that won’t cover up paw print detail).

Finally, I plan on casting with hydro-stone and some kind of iron-oxide/terracotta powder cement pigment (further recommendations are again welcome, ik there needs to be precise power to water mixtures, but with the pigment I’m not sure if I’ll nail it)

My goal is to get a clay looking paw imprint that looks like some kind of natural clay or stone, not plastic or play-dough, so that my puppy can be represented with respect and full detail.

Please share any tips and tricks for this particular combination and remember that I can’t just get a new master, this clay imprint is the only one, and unless I get his to work, all there will be.

If this method won’t work or there is another way, I’d greatly appreciate the advice. I will be testing materials on the back of the master to ensure it’s a safe combination.

Thank you <3

I want to make a replica of my own severed head (lol) but I’m having trouble finding what specifically I should buy from Amazon to cast my head. Specifically, I don’t know what I should use for the actual head replica, like what kind of “skin” do I use for that or what kind of silicone should o use and how do I emulate my skin color? How the hell do I put eyelashes and eyebrows on it? I figured I’d just put a wig on the thing and call it a day for the actual hair. I am also confused about the actual painting the skin part??? TL;DR: any curated lists for a full silicone replica bust of my own head, including hair, skin color, and paints?? I’m so confused thanks!

I need some advice on how to finish my prints for future resin casts with a smooth & uniform matte/frosted surface.

I'm testing different dremel tips to sand it but some corners are just too small to get into, which makes me think spraying it is my only option. I've done smaller mold tests and the light/dark discrepancies seen in the photos do transfer for the most part.

Are there any techniques I should look into doing a better spraying job? I'm mostly worried of getting too much paint buildup on certain areas while trying to get into others (granted I've only used regular width spray nozzles). I'm even wondering if I should contact a car body shop to do this part with matte paint?

**in the title I meant to type MJF**

Like be specific,I know that it depends oh how big and how detailed it is.But I need a specific cost cause I might underprice or overprice it, I'd like to avoid that. in pessos how much would a standard small, big,simple,and detailed figurine cost?Plus I'm not printing 3d models im making them by hand.

Hi all, hope this is OK to ask here...

I've been 3D printing for a couple of years now, using a resin machine. Typically, I'm using it to prototype parts, before having the finished item MJF or aluminium printed, or CNC machined.

I'd like to print a mold for a rubber part I intend to cast, but I'm concerned about visible layer lines in the finished item. My question is, would a mold release spray or similar get rid of these lines?

I'm happy if the part has a 'textured' finish. TIA!