I’m sorry if cases don’t count as gear. But, the box I purchased is a 55L top case that I got on eBay. I’m able to fit my XL Shoei RF-1400 with a Sena 10c EVO attached, a 3XL Alpinestars Andes Air Drystar jacket, a 40 ounce Hydroflask water bottle, a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and gloves fit in the pocket on the lid. I hope this helps anyone who finds this who is looking into getting a case for their bike.
Picked up a used 22 MT-09 last spring and I've been slowly figuring out gear since. Nothing here is top shelf, I'm not made of money, but it's finally a setup I don't think about while riding.
Gear
HJC RPHA 71. Bought it on sale mostly because it fit, and it's been better than the Bell I had before it. Quiet enough with earplugs, which I wear anyway.
Alpinestars T-GP Plus jacket. Mesh, so it's useless below about 12 degrees, but I ride in summer more than I don't.
Gloves went from $40 Amazon ones to a pair of Held Air n Dry. The cheap ones were fine right up until a low speed tip over in a parking lot, and then they were not fine.
TCX Street Ace boots. Look like normal shoes, which is the only reason I actually wear them to work.
Kevlar jeans. I know, I know. Proper pants are the next thing.
Contact points, which nobody warned me about
Tank grips, generic ones off eBay, and honestly they work the same as the name brand ones as far as I can tell.
Cheap adjustable levers. Fine, no complaints, though the finish is already going.
Luimoto seat cover. The stock MT-09 seat is slick and I was sliding into the tank at every stop. This fixed it for less than I expected.
Bar ends, mostly for the buzz at highway speed.
The one I regret is the mesh jacket. Should have bought something three season and been done with it instead of owning a jacket that's good for four months.
So what's the obvious thing I'm still missing? And is anyone actually happy with kevlar jeans long term or should I just accept I need real pants.
Hi, hopefully this hasn’t been asked too many times before.
I got my first bike a few months ago, and I’ve been wanting to get a cardo or a similar brand mostly to listen to music because my commute does get long sometimes, and I like music lol.
I know a lot of people use one, I’m just a bit worried about it being too distracting or preventing me from hearing traffic correctly.
I just received my new Bison track suit, and I have to say the fit and quality feel top notch 👌🏻
I decided on kangaroo leather with the integrated Helite airbag.
My question for those with experience with these suits, are you leaving the integrated back protector in for track days or should I be removing this for a full hard shell (like I used to use in my old suit)?
I’m torn, the integrated one has less coverage than those backpack style back protectors and feels softer. Perhaps this is by design since there will now be an airbag…
Could be a bit of a silly question, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. I’m curious how people store their helmets at work when they don’t have a locker.
I want to keep mine safe from falls, kicks, or just being knocked around in general. Since a helmet is there to protect your head, I’d rather not leave it somewhere it could get damaged.
Any advice and personal experience would be appreciated.
Started riding in March 2025 and bought an AGV K1S for INR 28,000 ($270, we have to pay import duty so it's much more expensive here) from a reputed importer in India. Loved the helmet and toured with it.
A year later, while getting an intercom fitted for a trip, the store staff removed the liner and I found cracks in the EPS.
I've never crashed or dropped the helmet, so this was pretty shocking. The concerning bit for me is that there is no way for me to know when did this damage happen, I wore it on a couple of tours and I'm just glad there was no incident to be relying on a helmet with a broken EPS.
Contacted AGV customer care and, after 2–3 weeks of correspondence, they refused to take responsibility.
No idea whether this was a manufacturing defect or the EPS deteriorating on its own, but I'm pretty disappointed.
I was actually considering upgrading to a K7 because I was so happy with my helmet, but I'll be avoiding AGV going forward.
I have been thinking of getting this pack but I can't seem to find any hands on reviews for it. Does anyone here have it and could tell your experience with it.
Top is the Wiley X and bottom is my current glasses from Dita. It made a huge difference and I dont hate myself every time I have to put on my helmet before going out and they slide in like butter, also with it being Z87+ is a good thing after hearing back from a friend that got his frame shattered into his eyeball. highly recommended!
Picked up a Corsa 2 gauntlet for 100+ degree rides while I break my motorcycle in.
I wear an XL in, from what I can tell, every motorcycle glove maker.
Before putting 400 miles on the gloves I spent a week wearing the gloves in. I put mink oil on the gloves, use the gloves with hand gripper workouts and I roll the fingers with a screw driver.
Here is what I think makes this glove compelling:
Has smart phone tips on fingers. Great because that gauntlet is stuck on your hand.
Wrist protection & slider pads.
Pinky protection through reinforcement.
Palm protection through reinforcement.
Gauntlet wrap is large enough to easily fit around jacket cuff.
For having no mesh and only perforated leather, it breathes well enough.
It feels like more is more when you wear it. I've worn gloves and thought "that's it", might as well wear some work gloves from home depot. This glove does feel substantial.
For rides less than 30 minutes long I'd recommend these.
After 400 miles here is where the glove falls short.
Stitching
2/10 already coming undone.
Seen accident pictures and these things explode at the stitches.
The finger stitching pattern stiffens the fingers, then as you break the fingers in it wears the stitching out.
The confidence built by the brand new construction is definitely undermined by the stitching fraying and not wearing "in" in a confidence inspiring manner.
Padding
Plastic Padding placement, in conjunction with stitch pattern can cause mobility restrictions.
The soft parts of the glove wear in, the plastic parts do not and a lot of the stitched on extra layers don't wear in either. The hard spots are in odd spots, where they're in a mobility spot, but at the fringes of it; further compounding the wear in issue.
The hard plastic points within the gloves do lack some supportive padding, so you'll feel them digging into your fingers. I can't imagine that would feel good in an accident.
Ergonomics
The red area highlights the worst ergonomic spot. As you squeeze the throttle and turn, this red portion digs into the flesh of your palm. It bunches up, like a diaper, adding chaff to your grip.
The yellow area highlights an undue pinky restriction. The plastic slide pads placed in the "your pinky might not shear off now" supplemental reinforcement restricts the movement of the pinky and does not break in well because the plastic slide pads are too close together and create an inflexible bead.
I'm left handed, so my right hand is a bit weaker than my left, and I found my throttle pinky sticking out, because it was exhausted. The glove itself provides solid exhaustive feedback at ~90 minutes of wear, which is very quick for me. I'm used to multi hour rides, so I was a bit surprised how quickly my hands were wearing out.
The gloves itself, although flexible, saps about 40-60% of your hand strength. Compared to my summer gloves that sap 10-20% hand strength.
Stupid shit.
Who ever designed this can fuck right off.
The inner strap is not one continuous strip of velcro, instead 2. When you're trying to loosen it, it gets stuck on split between strips.
Wear in
You can see parts of the gloves are chipping off, the stitches are fraying and other surface defects. This is only after 7 hours riding.
You may see some "extra wear" in the image, but stitching directly onto of a fabric is normally fine is the edges are sloppy. Issues occur when you're closing the pattern with a stitch, like the long seam on the finger where the stitching is clearly fucking up.
I do mark stitching by plastic/slide components because they hold the plastic in place and if the stitching is weak, they'll be under more stress and tear in a slide.
You can also see "this shit shrunk weird" indications on the pinky and various parts of the glove. The glove has not been through a washing machine and only had mink oil used on it to hydrate the leather bits.
Just for fun
If you shine a high lumen flashlight into the glove you can see, I could be mistaken about this, so someone correct me if I am, but you can see the glove template overlap layers and it's not putting a layer ontop of another. IE; it looks like a reinforcing layer, but really it's just a single layer made to look like an extra layer with limited double layering.
Compare it to my Taichi gloves I've had since 2009. No light shines through the stitching because it is actually 2 layers stacked on top of each other reinforcing them.
What this indicates is my 2009 Taichi glove is a whole glove that have reinforced panels on it. The Corsica 2 is a jigsaw puzzle of parts constructed to build a glove and does not likely have much 2 layer coverage.
This is a 17 year old glove.
Personal Grip(e)
If I wear my standard summer gloves I can ride ~4-5 hours without issue. Wearing the Corsa 2 for over 90 minutes and I start having fatigue in my hands.
The reason for this is because my summer gloves only take up 5-20% of my hand strength. The Corsa 2, because of the mess of padding in it, it's taking up 40-60% of my hand strength. I track my hand strength for health reasons and I break gloves in using grippers, so it sticks out when your reps dive bomb when wearing a certain glove.
Additionally, if you stick your thumb out to the side, like if you have a button to push on your handle bars, there isn't enough fabric across the the thumb span and it pushes your palm away from the grip. There needs to be more fabric relief in the thumb prominence in the glove to prevent the glove from pushing your hand away from your grip.
I've ordered some RST Tractech Evo 4 gloves and hopefully I have a better go with them.
As the title states ive only been riding my new to me bike a ninja 400 2023 and ive noticed on like hour long rides my right hand hurts alot in the space in between my thumb and pointer so I was trying to see if theres anything that can help as far as better gloves my gloves are only eh or if it just comes with time. Any advice is appreciated thanks.
Just bought a Leatt 8.5 ADV helmet and it’s such a beautiful junk.
The fit is great, I am coming from a HJC i71, I wore the helmet for 30 minutes around the house, no pressure points but when I took it off and looked more closely to the helmet padding, I noticed the cheek padding is lose, like, completely lose.
The adhesive between the padding and the outer shell is off.
I don’t know what other options do I have similar to this adv helmet because most of them I find them to look ugly. Airoh looks okish but I read that the quality isn’t great.
Should I put new adhesive there and keep it, if yes, what adhesive do you recommend?
Morning gentlemen, I wanted to ask if anyone has firsthand experience with the brand, how reliable and trustworthy is it? I'm diehard cyberpunk fan and new release is must buy, but I'm bit unsure of brand as I haven't heard of it previously. Also maybe anyone has heard anything about possible release date?
Hear me out; new rider this year and already looking for a new helmet.
Is there a reason why we always try on helmets with the cheek pads in and that's it? I read so many posts from people who say they are getting pressure points or who have bought a helmet that is the wrong shape for their head. Wouldn't it be easier to check crown fit without the cheek pads in and then try it with the cheekpads in afterwards? Is there a reason why people don't do that?
About to do daily commutinf o work on a bmw f900r with all kinds of weather: storms, rain, snow, you name it.
I really like the clean look of the revit echelon, but i cant seem to find really independent reviews, the one I did find said the waterproofing is lacking..
On the other hand is the poseidon 3 gtx which should be very durable and extremely good at keeping the water out.
In short, I think the poseidon would be the better choice for durability and waterproofing, but maybe looks a bit to "adventure" on my bmw f900r...
Anyone with experience with either of the two or which one would you choose?
j'aurais besoin de quelques conseils concernant l'équipement de protection.
J'ai l'intention de faire de la piste, donc je vais me procurer l'équipement adéqua.
Par contre, pour la route, je comptais me prendre une veste type bowtex à porter sous un pull ou un vêtement classique toute l'année (ville, montagne, auto-route etc).
À la base, je pensais partir sur une Knox Urbane Pro MK3, notamment parce qu'elle est annoncée CE AA, avec protections niveau 2 aux épaules, coudes et dos pour 310€ neuf taille M.
Le problème, c'est qu'en me renseignant davantage avant achat, je suis tombé sur pas mal de retours récents assez négatifs : confort/ventilation etc et surtout des témoignages de chutes où la résistance à l'abrasion semble avoir été moins bonne que ce que la certification annonce avec en plus des résultats de test MotoCAP bien catastrophiques.
Du coup je suis un peu perdu sur ce qui serait réellement le meilleur choix.
Mon cahier des charges serait idéalement :
- protection contre l'abrasion fiable pour sportive sur route AA ou AAA,
- protections épaules + coudes + dorsale suffisante,
- portable sous un sweat ou équivalent,
- bonne ventilation pour rouler toute l'année,
- et dans l'idéal sans dépasser 300€ ?
J'ai pu regarder du côté de Bowtex, Knox, Pando Moto, Rev'It, Dainese, etc., mais j'ai du mal à savoir quelles solutions valent réellement le coup et lesquelles sont vraiment intéressantes pour le prix.
Si certains d'entre vous ont de l'expérience avec ces équipements, ou ont testé/crash-testé ce type de protection, je serais vraiment intéressé par vos retours et vos recommandations.
I got an ad for it on sale and of course spend first ask questions later hit and now I’m having second thoughts as I can’t find much of anything on it. I already started the refund process as I wanted to look for something different anyway, but somehow they magically started shipping it two minutes before their second confirmation email about the refund. If it’s decent I may just take it as a lesson to have something better than my riding jeans and jacket as they’re both just thick denim. But if it won’t do much better than that I’d rather return them and put it towards good gear.
So i just got mine in the mail, and i have a XL Voss 993 Moto S. I got a ride planned later this day; Would i be able to install it for now with the metal clamp since the adhesive says it takes 24 hours?? I got a Packtalk Pro if that makes any difference.
Hello, I am a new rider looking for model selection for Daytona boots. I will be riding 100% on streets, 50% intra-city so sharing city roads and city expressways and pavements with other fast cars and 50% inter-city so freeways at 65-75mph, never tracks so looking for protection accordingly. I will go on longer road trips, atleast one, likely in hot weather so something vented would be nice, but not a deal breaker.
Here are my sizing details:
Brannock US 9E
Overall length is actually pretty short ~US8.3, but thats because of short shoes, sizing for arch length and width bumps up real measurements.
Alden Barrie US 8.5E, most other lasts EE width
Crockett Jones UK 8G forefoot wth F heel cup.
I tried the Alpinestars Supertech R and size 42 hurt the width of foot after 10-15mins. The heel was not super planted either, kinda floating just a little bit likely because foot being wedged in front because of width.
I could just try Daytona Road Star GTX in 41E which i see in Stock on Revzilla/CycleGear but im curious if I should get a boot with more protection. Other boots models dont seem to be offered in wide sizes while some by default seem to be inherently widish but i dont know which ones which. I also live in California so preference is for something vented, but most local riders i spoke with in store just ride Supertech Rs and dont really care about vents
These boots will be my default boots when all im doing is riding with minimal walking, which will be most rides. When i plan to walk about a bit more, ill likely be wearing a RSD x Whites leather motorcycle boot.
Hi all, I recently bought a new jacket, ended up going for an alpinestars gp plus v4 ride knit, but I ended up having to get a EU size 58. My old jacket was a 54 I got second hand but I had to do it up around my waist and try and shimmy it down after zipping it up, it was also way too tight around my chest and I couldn't take a full breath in.
The 58 lets me just do it up without having to pull it upto my waist and I can actually breathe in it. Before I bought the jacket I went to about 5-6 shops, tried googling my little heart out but couldn't find anywhere remotely near me that had women's jackets in a big enough size with decent features to go and try on, I really don't want to buy a jacket without trying it on.
I'm a big girl, almost 6ft2 and roughly 100kg, my wife's similar to me and we both have alot of trouble finding clothing that fits well.
Am I missing something? Is there a company that makes decent jackets for women in larger sizes or do I just have to live with the compromise of using a larger mens jacket? I live in Australia so some brands aren't super available here to go and try on.
