Got this truck on a trade and I plan on doing some braking and suspension mods before doing anything else with the motor. Im gonna tackle the brakes first i got a lsd rear axle out of a 1998-04 balzer and im gonna buy blazer front spindles and calipers to get some extra braking power but ive been looking for a braided line kit but I can't find on anywhere. Also any mods I need to do to the truck while im ripping it apart?. I know I need an adjustable prop valve and was debating on getting a MC from a full size 1500 to give it better pedal travel. My goal to to make the truck as street friendly as possible but still rowdy when I want it.

After years of wanting one I finally pulled the trigger. SBC 355 with a motha thumper cam, summit racing 700 carburetor, and a 350 turbo transmission using 410 gears with a winters sidewinder shifter. I’m in love

Do I need a new lower intake with this pitting? 2002 4.3. this is the rear passenger coolant port. I have the victor reinz metal gaskets going in.

My fellow S10 dudes & dudettes, which generation of S10’s would you find to be more appealing overall & to your liking most? A first generation square body S10, or the later second generation round body style S10 & why? Curious to know if the sub-community may favor one over the other more & why.

To speak for myself I would absolutely be a square body lover through & through all the way! Square body’s for life!

Stan the man with the plan for my sedan, can we fix it... lol. My son was in a slight fenderbender with his $750 shtbox 94 4.3 5spd. He bought it 3 yrs ago. I blew the head gasket on it about a year and a half ago when I wasnt paying attention to temperature and the minor water leak and let it run too low and overheat. Simply pulled the heads scrapped the old gasket and put the heads back on. We swapped the clutch using the bread trick for the pilot bearing right before I blew the head gasket. The input shaft bearing on it started making noise so we just swapped out the transmission for another off marketplace. We got it home tonight and i attached a chain come-along to the core support and pulled it enough to pop the hood. Damn near took my head off when the hook popped loose and shot back at me missing my head by inches and ever so gently wraped itself halfway around my neck. The accident missed the frame, no damage there. Looks like we just need to replace the hood, drivers fender assembly, radiator and core support and fan. Maybe the water pump. Obviously everything infront of the core support too. We already have a donor truck for all the parts. We bought it for 300 without a title, it was a green longbed with a bad transmission. He needed the frame for a 1979 chevy longbed Luv body swap. Anyway see how far we get tomorrow. Ill post updates.

Finally got the chance to clean and look at this blazer for the first time after buying it 3 days ago! I’ve only had time to take it to and from work, and I’m not mad at it!! I was a bit off put by the way it smelled like old person really bad and it needs spark plugs like a mofo. It’s grown on me a lot.

I found out it’s actually not tampered 90k miles and only had one owner with original receipts (was given to a couple by their uncle).

I was thoroughly impressed while cleaning it that it was only mildly stained and all the leather was intact.

Anyways!! Here he is after a full clean! I named him roach!

If anyone has advice on how I can clean up some of the peeled clear coat and make the outside look a bit cleaner that would be great!

Hi all,

This past weekend I was towing my camper with my S10. Stopped for gas at one point, noticed that mileage was a little worse than expected, and there was an odd "hot" smell, but opening the engine bay didn't turn up anything, so I assumed it was from someone else. About an hour later I get off the interstate, and the brake pedal sinks much further than before. Braking is still sort of ok if I push far enough, so I assume I busted a rear brake line and keep going to somewhere safe to stop.

After stopping, I look underneath for brake fluid, nothing there. Check the fluid level, all good. Check the wheel temperatures, right rear is hot as fuck. I assume that brake was dragging and eventually boiled the fluid (I haven't been staying on top of changes, that stuff is pretty damn old).

I do a little digging online, and it seems that the phenolic pistons GM used in the back were pretty bad, and one seizure up isn't exactly a surprise. After cooling down, brakes seem fine again, so I finish my trip (I was pretty close to the campsite anyway), and drive back a couple of days later with no incident (keeping speed down, stopping every hour or so to check wheels, never got worryingly hot again).

Today I finally get a chance to take off that wheel and have a proper look. Pads and rotors still look fine, I think the fluid is bad enough to boil much lower than you'd expect, but one of the pins is seized pretty badly. I manage to get it out and I check the caliper, it seems to be just fine. Pushes our easily, back in just the same.

So obviously I clean up the pin and housing, lubricate, and reinstall, but should I be replacing those calipers anyway, even though everything seems to be working perfectly now? It seems clear that the root cause was the stuck pin and old brake fluid, but I've seen nothing but trouble from those plastic pistons. This truck is not a daily driver for me, but when I do take it out, it's usually towing the camper, I'd rather not have this issue again in the future.

I've noticed that most slip ons won't cover the back part that's pretty bad any advice on how to cover that this is my

I’m about to go look at this truck, I’m super fluent with OBS Chevys and the Vortec motor but this is new area for me. What should I look for? I’m interested in using this truck as a daily. Thanks.

Hey S10 enjoyers,

Im a european S10 enjoyer and i Ive got brake issues. And have had it for a while so now im turning to you guys to rub my brain a little.

Pedal is soft when im standing at a idle. No issues while driving, brakes works great.

Some backstory.

When i bought the truck about 6 years ago the brakes did not work at all. Pedal always went to floor and i couldnt do extended braking. After alot of research and replacing master cylinder once, i figured one of the valves in the ABS was stuck open. Replaced that thing, bled everything to death and brakes started to work almost perfect. But i did not get rid of the pedal to floor while idling issue.

One more master cylinder later did not help at all. I have replaced 2 bad calipers. Did not help. Took out the booster to look at it, found no issues. Alot of bleeding with pressure, vacuum, gravity and pedal. Naturally had computer to do the ABS bleed aswell. Only thing changed is from DOT 3 to DOT 4 fluid. Because i couldnt source DOT 3 locally.

We have yearly inspections here and the values look great but every year im at risk of not passing due to the idle pedal issue.

Feels like im starting grasp at straws now. Current idea i have is either im very unlucky with my masters, both being AC Delcos, me destroying my masters while benchbleeding them, or my car is generating too much vacuum at an idle and im pushing through the master that way.

Picture of my dear car in a ditch cause why not :)

Hello, I’ve been able to replace my headlights and taillights, but haven’t been able to find anything on the turn signal lights, anyone got a link to a video? Not sure if I have to remove the bumper or if I can sneak under the truck to remove them.

Still rolling after all these years. Those mud tires have seen some serious adventures. Can't believe it's been 14 years already!

I just lifted the door and slipped in some plastic C clip like washers but it's been weeks and they're still working perfectly so I figured I'd share. I'll put a picture of them in the comments cuz I can't post 1 of each. I used some extra 3D printed spacers and cut out a section but you could make some out of a plastic lid or something if you don't have a printer. If you do, I could send you the .STL if you want but it's literally just a circle. Figure it's such an easy and cheap fix, even if not permanent, it's good enough for me

I just bought a 1987 s10 tahoe 2.8l 700r 4x4. I am currently chasing down a problem that causes the truck to not get past 45 mph. While inspecting the vehicle I noticed inside the valve cover smells like gas, as well as a light smell of gas from the oil on the dip stick. The PCV smells likke gas too. I intermittently get low oil pressure. What does the hive mind think?

This seat is for an automatic, I can't use it in my standard because the shifter will hit it right? The standard seats have a little indent cut out?

This is for first gen.

This is my new to me 1987 GMC S-15 Sierra. Picked it up about a month ago. It's single cab, long bed and has the 2.8L V6. It's an automatic, 4WD truck as well. It's a pretty clean truck for being in Michigan all its life. I'm the 3rd owner and it only has 110000 original miles on it.

I have a feeling it’s the cruise control like because coincidentally I have a vac leak on it, and my cc just barely went out. But the diagrams sort of suck and I couldn’t figure out which one it was

It goes out to the medium sized pulley between the big bottom pulley and the small top pulley thing

This is a CPI 4.3L vortec

Line also is very hot

All I hope is that I get my cruise control back I will do anything for it

This is before pics

Pretty excited to have something small and utilitarian to drive around
2003 166k miles v6 auto
Can’t wait to share the build keeping it tasteful but fun

The guy I bought my 98 s10 from asked if I want these turn signals and I was wondering if anybody had info on them, I’m looking to get matching headlights. Even a good looking headlight that almost matches would be nice

just picked this thing up last monday, 2.2L 5 speed gmc sonoma 49k miles, has the common arizona sun fade.

Im restoring this 94 s10 and i broke the vacuum harness.

Ive tried looking it up but am getting conflicting answers.

I already got the blockoff off of a 99+

Do i need a tune for egr and evap delete?

Can i just throw the egr solenoid plugged in but not attached somewhere?

I heard something about chips and that these ecus come socketed? Can i just get a chip from say, boostednw and toss it in?