How to adjusting 5'6" pattern for 5'

[u/maplelymoo]

I have a pattern that is designed based on a height of 170cm (~5.6ft tall) individual. The pattern has a shorten/lengthen line and the instructions say

"the pattern is drafted for a height of 170cm, as a starting point, compare your height to this and adjust accordingly.

Eg. Your height 178cm, then lengthen by 8cm.

Eg. Your height 160cm, then shorten by 10cm. "

Because I am 5ft tall, ~153cm, which is a ~17cm difference, which means to raise the shorten line by ~6.69 inches. That seems like a lot...

Im not sure if i should shorten ~3in at the waist, then shorten the hem 3in?

The toile i made i only shorten by 1.5inchs bc i converted incorrectly lol, but the dress is still massive in every place besides the waist fit ok. I am interested in making another toile with the 6in shorten, but wanted to see if anyone had advice before I spent the time and money making a second toile.

I wanted to now if anyone has any tips or experience with such a big shorten change.

(The pattern I am working on is the Teddy Dress but My Keeper. I have found this pattern to be a bit frustrating but I reallt love the cut and idea of the dress)

[u/throwra_22222]

What is the pattern?

You only need to shorten by 6" if this garment covers you from head to toe!

You can measure your torso length or leg length or whatever and compare it to the pattern to figure out how much to shorten it. If you share what the pattern is we can give you more specific advice.

ETA I just googled the Teddy dress. I would shorten this in more than one place. You may need to shorten it above the bust to get the underarm into the right place and below the bust to get the waist into the right place. The skirt is full enough that you can probably just hem it where you want and not have to shorten it at the hips.

I know that's a lot of work on so many panels, but your sample is your friend. Pin the extra length out horizontally and that will give you the exact adjustments to make.

[u/maplelymoo → u/throwra_22222]

Thank you for your input! I was thinking the same thing of alternating in multiple places bc the toile fits so weird, but the patter only instructed to shorten at the shorten/legthen line, and im someone that really sticks to instructions 😅😂 I think this pattern does not take into account that adjusting for shorter is not as simple as adjusting the wasit line up, but I appreciate your feedback!

[u/Carccajou]

Take your toile, find the lengthen/shorten line, and pinch out an inch or two of fabric along the line. Pin or baste to secure, then try it on. Repeat if it's still too long. Measure the amount of fabric in the pinch, and adjust the length by that much in the paper pattern.

Alternatively, take a dress you like the length of, and lay it against the pattern for comparison.