When you guys are looking for a smart thermostat, what tech in the thermostat are you looking for and why?

Hello,

I’m trying to connect my sensi smart thermostat to wifi. When i reached to the screenshot section of the process, the sensi network doesn’t show up on my iphone wifi setting. Is there a solution for this matter?

So, I setup Wyze thermostats a few years ago with remote sensors to try and equalize my house temperature.

Our setup is pretty simple, one thermostat downstairs with 2 remote sensors and one upstairs with 2 remote sensors. A schedule to keep comfort on auto. No brains just a basic setup.

Then I found out Wyze discontinued the thermostat and no longer supports it. Damn the bad luck.

So I'm looking to switch to a new thermostat, preferably one that has support behind it, and stumbled across the W200.

I'm assuming right now that the W200 can handle this setup and add some brains to help save some energy but figured I'd ask first.

Long term I'm looking to get a Home Assistant to help with all this and add some other 'nice to haves' like vacuuming and what not.

Is this a good choice?

I am trying to install Ecobee thermostat premium, and struggling as where to connect c-wire on hvac control panel. There are two slots marked as C on the panel and already have wires attached to it. Some slots have two wires in them. If I could get help with c-wire (blue) connection slot on the panel?

Can I attach c-wire in a slot with existing wire in it? Or have to try something else.

I have attached pictures of old thermostat wiring (c-wire is not connected), hvac panel wiring schematic and current state.

I will highly appreciate the inputs.

Looking for some input on my Sensi ST55C sensi thermostat.

Thermostat Age: 4 years
Units: Furnace ONLY
Furnace Age: 3 years
Symptoms: Batteries are draining every 12-18 hours from full to completely dead. Using good batteries too.

What is going on?

Help!

Hi there,
I’m hoping someone out there can provide some guidance for me.
I have a 7 yr old (therefore out of warranty) Vado Sensori TCH-3500, powering a dual - rainfall and handheld shower system.
It has recently decided to scald us with hot water no matter what temperature the wall control is set at.
I therefore believe it’s probably a broken thermostat in the CPU?
Vado head office, or their local Northern Ireland rep say they can’t help me as it’s out of warranty and say it’s discontinued so I can’t even buy a replacement.
So, basically we have a broken shower and seemingly no way to fix it.
Anyone out there familiar with these showers or know if a new thermostat can be sourced and replaced without removing the whole system and moving to mechanical controls?
Thanks in advance for your guidance.

I'm in the UK and have a relatively new (approx 2 years old) Grant oil boiler operated by a Honeywell TR3 wireless thermostat. I've gone through a bunch of trouble shooting online and so far gone through these steps:

1. Changed the batteries in the transmitter

2. Checked for any warning symbols on the transmitter and receiver, everything looks as it should. Transmitter shows a wireless signal in the top right and light on the receiver is solid green.

3. Turned up the temperature on the transmitter to above room temp. Flame symbol comes on on the transmitter and flame light turns on on the receiver.

4. Turned it all off and then on again at the wall.

The problem is that instead of the boiler firing up, the receiver just makes a weird chirping noise. If I press the flame button on the receiver it does the same thing. The transmitter and receiver seem to be paired, but the receiver either isn't sending a signal to fire the boiler, or the boiler isn't receiving the signal.

I've tried a number of different search terms and tried the honeywell website, but I can't seem to find this issue reported anywhere. Can anyone help with this one?

Anyone have problems connecting the s1200 to a ring doorbell? I am able to link my ring account in the thermostat app and give access to the account but when I click the slide button it moves over with a "thinking" circle then slides back to the off position so it doesn't turn on. Tried calling Honeywell and they don't know why it's happening they say there is nothing wrong with the account and it should work said I should check with ring. Anyone else have this happen?

Can someone help with wiring

From my research I believe I have a dual transformer system. Gas boiler for baseboard heating in the basement and two air handlers in the attic (dual Zone). Attached is an image of one of the air handlers' control board, the thermostat and the gas boiler

Air handler:

G, C and R

Thermostat:

R, Rc, W, Y, G

Gas Boiler:

No clue what the wiring is for

Research tells me the ecobee PEK is incompatible with this system. How do I wire this?

I installed a T6 zwave at my mobility impaired moms house a few years ago and integrated it to home assisant for her so we can help her set AC remotely.

I got a call yesterday that the AC, was acting strange. COmplressor was running, handler was running. The comressor fan was not spinning. I immediately thought it was the motor capacator. I had someone local there try to do the manual spin start. NO luck. I said to go ahead and call he AC guy (who is installing the other AC in the house as well). I get hh results today and the AC person said it was the thermostat. They said it was blowing 110 deg air, the heat was running. Al sorts of stuff.

So they swapped out to a regular thermostat and left the zwave one there. Has anyone heard of issues like this? I am supprised that it would just start "glitching" like this.

I also find it "interesting" that this happened right after they came out to clean the drain line. The float tripped a day or two before, but I was not in town to clean the drain myself.

On the Honeywell site, thermostats galore.... I think I've figure the ElitePro and FocusPro are for HVAC pros and they have a common thermostat with a slightly different name but same features for the do it your-selfers (there's also a color one from Best Buy. for example.). I'm replacing the NESTS, and have a Goodman HVAC (new hoe to me).

Real question, has anyone used the ElitePro with success and recommend it? My HVAC company spec'd the FocusPro S200 which is less expensive but still uses buttons. Am I nuts for asking for touch screen model? I see the ElitePro can have in room sensors that may be good for a hot house with many rooms too (vs common hallway only).

https://www.resideo.com/us/en/pro/elitepro-smart-thermostat-series/#comparisonchart

https://www.resideo.com/us/en/pro/focuspro-thermostat-series/

Thx!

Hey all.

Kinda fell into the C-Wire rabbit hole. Got several basic thermostats(1 x Heating and Cooling, 1 x Cooling, and 2 x Heating) that I'm looking to replace with smart thermostats for Home Assistant integration.

From what I was able to gather, it seems like the preferred source for the C-Wire in a hybrid, dual transformer set up, is from the cooling side. I've been trying to understand why, and I've read a few articles about the importance of keeping the loops separate. The part I'm confused is why prefer the C-Wire from the cooling side and not the heating side. Is just a standard default that most thermostats expect the C wire from the cooling side in? My understanding is that the thermostat will power up from the C-Wire but keep the heating circuit isolated from the cooling circuit to avoid shorts. Why can't it do it from the C-wire from the heating side?

FWIW, this house has central air for cooling, and hydronic heating with several honeywell zone valves. There is a transformer that provides power to the zone valves and wires(red and black) that go to heat only thermostats. The one cooling has a C-wire populated, but the heating and cooling one does not. All the thermostats are basic ones with batteries and looking to replace them with smart thermostats. I'm looking at the Honeywell T6 Pro Z-Wave, which supports dual transformer setup like this house, but it also expects C-Wire from the cooling side. The heat-only ones, I'll have to pull the C-wire from the transformer, and I assume that's fine since there will be no connection to the cooling circuit?

I also understand there are kits that can provide C-wire power without a C-wire, but more so curious about the preference for the C-Wire to be from the cooling side?

Thanks

I have this old thermostat in my house (RobertShaw model 9520) I woke up this morning to my house FREEZING, the thermostat is set to 45°F and won’t change. I tried killing power to it and resetting it, but when I turn it back on it starts at 70° and immediately turns itself down to 45°. Is there a fix or do I need a new one?

Need some advice on replacing a thermostat. We have had trouble with our thermostat in that it does not always switch on once the temp rises above the set temp. Sometimes after the definitive “click” it cycles on. Sometimes no “click", no AC. We had the freon recharged and the HVAC tech told us we need a new thermostat to replace our old digital Honeywell w the two AA batteries.

Bought a new Honeywell at Lowes, one that connects to WiFi. After some modifications to the mount the new unit at the box where the wires come out of the wall, I realized that the old thermostat connected with 4 wires to terminals G,W,Y & R. The new thermo has no batteries and has 5 connections adding one labeled “C” along with a warning in the instructions, “will not work without C connected." Since I thought that I was limited to 4 wires, I packed it up to return it tomorrow and buy a 4 wire unit. I put the old thermo back on, back to square 1, intermittent AC.

Afterwards, I decided to check the connections in the air handler and noticed that there are actually 5 wires in the existing circuit, it was just that at the end behind the thermostat, the 5th wire was just trimmed very short. I also noticed a terminal labeled ‘C” in the handler (last pic). The unit is a RUDD, about 17 years old.

I know it sounds like a foolish question, but before I take the new thermo back, can I connect the C terminal in the handler to the ‘C” port on the new thermo and get the new thermo to work?

Sorry if this is the wrong subreddit. I just had my AC compressor replaced and can feel the cold air coming from the vents. I have a probe (cooking probe admittedly) and a dehumidifier that read the inside temp as 71/72 when the thermostat says 76. Anyway I think replacing it would probably fix the problem (right?). What should I get?

Tldr: I think my thermostat is broken and would like some suggestions on what I should replace it with, smart vs dumb?

Planning to replace this thermostat with a smart one. Do i have a c-wire in my current setup? How necessary is it?