r/woodworking 21d ago

Finishing osmo polyx oil. white oak. gut check?

Post image

looking for feedback with my first time using osmo. I have white oak tabletop and here is my test cutoff piece. I applied coats using this sponge brush, 10 hours between coats, wiped off excess with a paper towel.

results are a little tacky feeling. do I just need to run it over with steel wool or wait longer? any other feedback is welcome.

in hindsight for this testpiece I realize I applied perpendicular to grain which I'm hoping doesn't matter

Edited to add UPDATE POST https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/1w3wlxx/osmo_polyx_oil_gut_check_update/

33 Upvotes

53 comments sorted by

67

u/Winter_Yak_4446 21d ago

You apply it wait a couple of minutes and then wipe off the excess with a towel (like an old rag, or maybe a shop towel, but not a white kitchen paper towel). You need to wipe off the excess to the point where it feels dry and the tackiness is gone, you're not just wiping off the pooled up excess. If it's overly tacky and hard to wipe clean, you may have waited too long. If it's a larger piece you can literally start buffing where you started the application by the time you finish the last section.

Probably applying too heavy in the initial application too. I use a white scotch brite abrasive pad to apply it which also helps knock down any fuzz.

It shouldn't feel tacky even right after application and buffing.

7

u/crazyaznrobot 21d ago

hmm good advice I'll try a shop towel with a new cutoff piece tonight

5

u/Xanovai 21d ago

i made the same mistake last time i used it - thought i had to leave a thin "wet" coat. i ended up doing a light sand back, and just applied like i do rubio (white scotch brite cloth, rub it in, let sit a couple minutes, wipe to dry) and it turned out great. also did a 2nd coat the same way.

2

u/crazyaznrobot 21d ago

yeah this seems to be my mistake, not knowing what "excess" really means

3

u/Xanovai 21d ago

This was the end result, so even if it does end up tacky or too thick, you can just lightly sand and do another coat

39

u/ZeroVoltLoop 21d ago

Another good advice: there are words on the can. If you read them, you will learn how the finish is supposed to be applied.

16

u/TheMCM80 21d ago

I genuinely think one of the biggest mistakes in finishing that a lot of hobbyist woodworkers make is not reading the instructions and taking them seriously.

I’ve seen so many people put BLO on and never wipe off the excess. They are left with a gross tacky mess and think the finish is bad.

19

u/Xanovai 21d ago

the instructions actually say to leave it, which is what i followed and had the same problem as OP.

https://osmocolorusa.com/product/polyx-oil-high-solid/

First Coat: Apply one thin coat with an Osmo Floor Brush or Osmo Floor Roller. Our rollers have a 4.5mm nap.

  1. Stir the Polyx®-Oil well and prior to use
  2. Brush or roll the product thinly and evenly onto the floor.
  3. Do not remove excess product, this will absorb into the wood surface over the drying period
  4. Allow 8-10 hours drying time prior to proceeding to second coat

Second Coat: Roll or Brush a thin second coat

  1. Brush or roll the second coat thinly and evenly onto the floor
  2. Allow approximately 5-10 minutes for product to penetrate surface
  3. Allow 8-10 hours drying time. Allow for good ventilation whilst drying.

3

u/TheMCM80 21d ago

I’m not saying this was meant to be wiped off or not. I was just mentioning BLO, as it’s the most common example I see.

Step 2 is almost certainly the issue. Not a thin enough of a coat.

Possible problem 2 is most products have a specified ideal environment conditions. Temp/humidity. If you are outside of those ranges you will have issues with drying properly.

2

u/bennibeatnik 20d ago

You’re reading the instructions for wood floor application, there is a significant difference due to the recommended prefinishing of the wood and the nature of that specific absorbtion rate.

For furniture, you use a rag.

Generally speaking, soak a small amount of a clear rag, wipe liberally all over the piece, (I add more in places where it gobbles it up) and allow the finish to soak in for about 5-10min. Then WIPE OFF as much as possible with a clean rag, or multiple. The resulting furniture should have the slightest sheen of finish on top, which you should be careful not to leave fingerprints on, then reapply the same way in one day.

This is how it is done for furniture.

3

u/Xanovai 20d ago

My reply was in response to the initial snarky poster, and themcm80 about reading the instructions "on the can" which do not mention anything about the application being different for different for floors or furniture. The can only has the brush/roller instructions which are above. So anyone that wanted to try this finish and follows those instructions, which is what those posters are saying should be done. Will have the problem op and I did. And also already aware of how it should be done for furniture since I had to research after the fact to fix it.

2

u/bennibeatnik 20d ago

Totally get it, when I first got into Osmo I was super frustrated with the application instructions being too vague. I’m not actually sure what’s on the can exactly as I don’t use it for flooring and generally use them all the same. In my experience, you let it soak and then remove as much as you can so it’s not sticky at all. I’m surprised they recommend leaving it on floors for so long, I would surely buff that immediately off

1

u/Xanovai 20d ago

Same I can't imagine a white oak floor being that much different than white oak on a drawer face or piece of furniture.

7

u/Canthook 21d ago

I made this mistake. Osmo is a wood flooring finish. There's no instruction to wipe off excess, only to apply and let it dry. Don't follow the instructions on the can. Look up how to apply a generic hardwax oil.

34

u/DannyFooteCreations 21d ago

Not good advice for Osmo and a bit condescending and rude. Osmo has various ways to be applied and following their directions will not always lead to the best results unless you are doing flooring.

7

u/peschkaj 20d ago

Osmo provide a set of instructions and techniques for furniture separately from flooring these days.

4

u/DannyFooteCreations 20d ago

That’s good. I just have seen a lot of people on this sub unhappy with the finish when a simple wipe down and then buff would have solved everything. I know when I started using Osmo I followed their instructions and wasn’t happy with it so I started treating it like other hardwax finishes and got way better results

3

u/peschkaj 20d ago

At the Center for Furniture Craftsmanship, they teach that you should apply Osmo by drizzling some one and spreading it with a credit card or old hotel room key. Any thin piece of plastic will work. Apply just barely enough so that you can see it. Then after fifteen minutes, you wipe it off with a painter's rag or towel. Or use a white 3M scrubby pad.

Aled Lewis goes one step further and does the first application diluted with a teeny tiny amount of mineral spirits for wood like white oak. He only uses 5-10ml, but he claims it helps the first application sink in. That's been my experience, too.

2

u/DannyFooteCreations 20d ago

Interesting. I try to saturate the first application and get as much to soak in as I can by wiping it into the grain until it is no longer soaking in. Then I wipe off excess after 15 minutes. I find that helps get a good first layer. I’ve used the thinner Osmo and didn’t find it made a better first coat, that I could tell but it sure did soak into the wood.

2

u/boulderbuford 20d ago

This guy has got to be a lot of fun at a party

2

u/StoneSkipper22 21d ago

It’s a beautiful finish, but yes, wipe the heck out of it. 150-220 grit before the first coat, gently 220-340 grit buff before the second coat.

1

u/kylelee 19d ago

I just used Osmo on a butcher clock countertop desk and sacrificed a few microfiber towels to the excess gods. It felt like I was taking off too much but the results were great.

Definitely does not look like your 2 coat sample.

9

u/side_frog 21d ago

There's way too much, I wipe out all excess and do 2 to 3 coats. Don't even have to wait for 10 hours, 4-5 is fine

8

u/TanMan_16 21d ago

https://youtu.be/LHmZox9WWSE?is=1GOgOtxBe5Tglbl0

Watch this. I followed it and had wonderful results on white oak. Non-abrasive white pad will apply and buff at the same time.

3

u/usernameconundrum 21d ago

Second this. Non abrasive white pad is the way.

1

u/The_Blue_Djinn 20d ago

Third it. I was shown how to put it on with a white pad by a furniture maker. It’s the best way and I’ve tried them all.

1

u/Yodute 20d ago

I watched that exact video 6 years ago when I used Osmo for the first time. It's great

1

u/kylelee 19d ago

I did 3M black pads between coats. White pad to buff and then brown paper bags

6

u/TryOnlyonce420 21d ago

I just did my patio chairs and an end table in Osmo, get a white non scratch scotch bright pad and rub it in, you want it rub it in really good so there isnt excess then let it sit for 10 -15 then go back over it with a clean scotch bright pad. Do 2-3 of these or until you like the look

5

u/TryOnlyonce420 21d ago

3

u/crazyaznrobot 21d ago

beautiful thanks for the examples

4

u/Sinclair_Mclane 21d ago

The other comments are spot on so I won't add on top. The only thing I can say is I suggest you plan on doing three coats unless your second coat looks really really good. From my experience using polyx, the third coat is significantly better looking than the other ones.

2

u/crazyaznrobot 21d ago

i think a third coat would benefit too especially on my end grain

2

u/DannyFooteCreations 21d ago

Also, buff the last coat with while scotch pad after wiping the excess. It helps activate the hardwax and even everything out

3

u/Silent-Middle-8512 21d ago

I apply Osmo with a white scotch brite pad. Rub the Osmo into the wood until it is buffed and dry. Looks great on white oak.

2

u/jacksraging_bileduct 21d ago

You seem to be leaving too much on the wood, after it has been allowed to set for the time in the directions you need to buff off as much as you can

2

u/ln_ul 21d ago

This is a reactive finish which means it reacts with oxygen to cure. The reason you have to buff off any excess with a rag is because if you don’t, the finish under very top most layer won’t be able to react with the oxygen in the air and will never truly cure.

2

u/pablosus86 21d ago

Props for doing a test piece first at least. 

1

u/Playful-State-8103 21d ago

I find the foam brush lays down too much product and so I never use it with Osmo. I use a cotton cloth folded several times, about 2”x 2”. From your pics, it seems you put way too much product. Super thin coats, be stingy. I’ve never needed more than 3 coats, usually 2. If it’s still tacky, then I buff with white pad followed by a thin coat with furniture wax… does the trick.

2

u/crazyaznrobot 20d ago

agreed I decided to get the scotch Brite white pads given the overwhelming feedback here so waiting on this before I do my second attempt.

I bought minwax paste finishing wax I think for the same idea that you listed. how long after the osmo coats do you wait to apply the wax?

1

u/Playful-State-8103 20d ago

If I have the tacky situation you describe and it’s my final coat, I usually wait an extra day to see if it improves. If not, I rub with the white pad and apply a bit of wax, then buff the wax. If it’s not my final coat, I still wait, hit it with the white pad, and carefully apply a thin coat using a super fine pad. I bought a Mirka sample set of abrasive pads from Lee Valley that has 1500 grit if memory serves.

I’m still trying to figure out why this happens in the first place. Most of my stuff isn’t even sanded, I use planes and card scrapers.

All the best. Post that table so we can see!

1

u/----mark--- 21d ago

I put it on as thin as possible with a brush working in sections. I dint worry too much about excess sitting on the surface at this point though i am thinning itout. Once I've done a certain amount I'll put the brush over the whole area again in 2 directions. Check close at this point because any open grain patches might want a little more oil if it really takes it up. Then I'll move onto the next section or piece of the furniture. Same again. When 2nd section is done. I'll hit the first with a good quality paper towel/kitchen roll. First pass take off excess. Re fold paper towel. Then ill work circular to really even out any remaining residue. The final with the grain. I really take of anything that will stick to the towel. At that point you can see the finish even out. It will now dry very fast unless its cold. Ive put too much on in the past and it always looks shite.

1

u/BeatMastaD 21d ago

Oil finishes are not a coating, they soak into the wood and then harden to but there is no layer of it on top of the wood like with poly.

1

u/Evan-Lyons 20d ago

Has anyone got any experience with hardening time? I am wondering if I am being impatient or did not apply enough. I have a kitchen bench I applied 2x coats 1 week ago. It is currently installed in careful use but I have a couple of marks I have noticed that seem to have stained it. - can't be more than water... I thought we were being careful. Is this because it has only been a week or have I applied incorrectly?

1

u/Initial_Savings3034 20d ago edited 20d ago

I also have mixed results with this stuff.

In my opinion Oak should be sealed with something with something to fill pores, first. I had acceptable application with a fine, non-abrasive pad, but it was fussy. With significant pressure and precious little material I had good build by the end of my project. In the end, I returned to Waterlox over Shellac with porous wood species.

Osmo recommends a High solid version over Oak (presumably to fill pores in the first layer).

If you'll pardon the pun, where this stuff really shines is on lighter colored species with a burnished surface.

From the Osmo website:

Apply two thin coats with non-abrasive white scotchbrite pads

Stir the Polyx®-Oil well and pour into tray Work the product into the wood thinly and evenly in figure 8 or circular motions using a white pad Be sure to thinly and evenly coat the surface and leave on the surface for approx. 5 minutes With a clean white pad, polish the surface ensuring no swirl marks, rings, or wipe marks Ensure all excess product is removed from surface Allow approx. 8-10 hours drying time. Allow for good ventilation whilst drying Apply second coat following previous steps.

1

u/GMF4000 20d ago

I use a paint sprayer and usually do three light coats. I do it in the garage so it does not stink up the house. Very little to wipe off excess.

1

u/EastCommunication752 20d ago

Osmo is super easy. Apply it to one side, wait 5-10 mins then wipe it off like you never meant to put it on there in the first place.

I use white scour pads for the application and any lintless towel to wipe it off.

I mean it, wipe it off like you never meant to put it on there.

1

u/Wenema 20d ago

Had to remake dishtable countertops, cause lightning blasted our dishwasher and we decided it was time to get a real machine instead of those thinner ones. Long story short -> I Osmo'ed in 3 layers and couldnt be happier. No sticky aftermath, works with silicone (I put it before osmo). I did use sponge brushes, but i did have to wipe of some excess.

1

u/HarryCumpole 19d ago

I use PolyX a fair amount.

My gut tells me that running sample boards along the grain rather than with it allows for more realistic application ;-)

0

u/bkh_walk18 21d ago

Osmo on WO (I prefer QS) is a delightful combo. Its a rough wood so working the osmo into the grain suits it well. Apply via anyone's recipe. But it's a good combo.