Still trying to figure out the best solution for the rear v brake cable (I've seen the dremel method and may try that), and yes yes I know ditching the cantis is going to upset some people. Crankset should be here today and I'm gonna try a Fairdale MX-4 to get the front end up a bit higher.

This is probably the 5th bar I’ve used on this bike and instantly my favorite. It’s amazing how a cockpit change can basically mean you have a new bike. Now I’m riding high and wide. Never been so comfortable on this bike. 10/10. I decided to try something new by mounting shifters in the center. The intention here is to make it less convenient to shift all the time which keeps me in a cruising mentality. No regrets there at all. Forces me to just stand up instead of downshifting. Bonus is I didn’t have to change my cables, just had to cut them. These bars would’ve required a longer cable run.

Sharing my 1989 Diamondback Ascent EX-bike. I enjoy building 26er steel mtbs but lately, I'm finding it hard to justify another project considering how well this thing rides. My solid Trek 990 also gets ignored and the '94 Stumpjumper I have lined up to build, I'm not in a rush to complete now. We'll see how long this feeling lasts!

Ever since buying this bike for $70, mostly everything has been working. There has been some rust but all gears and even the tires have been holding up. I’m no sure what’s more fun riding or building up the bike.

I was browsing for tools at the pawnshop when a sticker caught my attention, "Reynolds 520." I know its the not the best steel but usually bike shaped objects don't come in brandname steel. I look closer at it, Its a Kona Tonk, in my size for 100. One of my favorite bike brands in my size that cost just enough for my pocket money. The frame had some wear marks and rusty parts. I knew some TLC and some new tires were all it needed. I took it home and started working on it immediately. Third and forth picture after a deep clean.

My newly built coaster Soma Wolverine. Hand built wheels by me. Monē souped up coaster hub and raw brass nipps, Shimano slx front hub, DT double butted spokes and Stans Arch MK3 rims. She’s a ripper. I’ve had the bike for a while and set up SS but the coaster life got me.

Hi all, wanted to share my do-it-all rig in its current state!
Frame is from my dad’s old Zullo citybike (Columbus-esque steel tubes construction, local builder), components were sourced with the goal to take me on all the paved roads, fast or slow, while requiring close to zero maintenance and being reasonably light.
I think the result is quite cool, I don’t see many restomods like mine where I’m from so I think I nailed the quirky but competent look I was going for.
I’m always searching for an excuse to work on it so tell me what I should thinker with next/suggest other projects I should take on ;)

Es la primera vez que pregunto aquí. Recientemente adquirí una horquilla Girvin Noleen Cross Link ELT con amortiguador Smart Shock. El sistema funciona, pero no tiene las pegatinas originales, así que eso no es problema. Mi intención es instalarla en una Trek 6500 ZX que encontré cerca. ¡Soy de Costa Rica! Hablo español y un poco de inglés. El caso es que he buscado imágenes de referencia de cómo quedaría el proyecto terminado en otras bicicletas con la misma horquilla o una similar. También quiero usar un manillar con una elevación de 120 mm o un manillar de BMX, con una configuración de 2x8 o incluso 2x9 velocidades. Adjunto algunas fotos de la horquilla; proviene de un cuadro Proflex 4000 de 1998.

Agradecería mucho si alguien pudiera compartir una foto de proyectos que utilicen la misma horquilla.

Having fun with the GT while I wait for paint and parts for the alien.

Hey! I want to get some fun reflector for my 90s commuter bike, both for safety and the aesthetic.

Does not have to be the triangle thingy, but I like that you can strap them to your saddle.

Would appreciate some tips on fun reflectors!

I already posted pictures of my Colnago but I thought since there where some updates, I list some of the modifications I‘ve done.

Chainring, Bar and Stem are made SUMO.
The Old threaded fork is has been upgrade with a cheap custom fork and Cane Creek Headset. Threadless 1“ is really hard to come by. Also added some additional mounting points.

The derailleur and trigger are the XTR M9000 ones.

The rear wheel was custom made sometime in the 90s but has Never been driven until now.
It’s a Mavic Aluminium Rim with a Tune Mag 215 with titanium freehub.

The frontbrake was changed from Canti to a Deore V Brake. Rear is still the old U Brake.
Finding brakelevers was quiet the challenge. I chose the Shimano Tiagra levers, because you mix Canti/U Brake and V Brakes.

As you can very well see the framebag is selfmade;)

Future upgrades I think should definitly be the pedals and saddle.
For the saddle I would love use a Brooks C17 in Blue.

Biggest Dream on the bike would be to have a dropper post. But the seatpost on this bike is so thin, nothing would fit.

Maybe you have some ideas, tuning one down to the right diameter would also be an option.

Picked up this rockhopper earlier off of fb marketplace locally, it’s a bit rough and absolutely filthy but keen to hit it with the xbiking stick.

It’s my first rockhopper build so any pointers will be much appreciated.

The tyres are shot, the rear hub is pretty toast and the bottom bracket is a bit crunchy so I’m tempted to stick some new wheels & tyres on it and maybe 1x10 it.

Picked this up awhile ago! It’s been a fun bike so far, not doing much to it. Going to throw a Edsen coffee rack in the front and call it good for awhile!

I picked up this Gary Fisher Kai Tai mostly because I thought it looked really cool and it seemed like it had barely been ridden. I actually hadn’t owned a mountain bike in years, but I recently discovered r/xbiking and really like the whole idea behind it.
Do you guys think this would make a good x-bike? It’s mostly original right now, and I’m curious what you’d change first. Tires, cockpit, pedals, rack/bags, drivetrain, or just ride it as-is for a while?
I’d love to keep the ’90s character rather than modernize it too much.

She’s ratty but rolling 🐀

Still lots to do on this one:

Swapping to hydraulic brakes when I can be bothered

External route 27.2 dropper

Id like to find a matching NX dub crankset

The forks need a bit of a service but its holding air and the rebound adjust is working. Not bad for being sat in my mates basement for years.

Gears need a fine tune (currently gets into them all, but it’s a WIP)

Ferrules needed all round and all the usual finishing touches.

Yes that’s electrical tape round the outer cables as I only had white and didn’t like how it looked. So new brake outer needed until I can be bothered setting her up with some hydros.

Just been for a spin round the neighbourhood and already know this is gonna be a ripper of a bike.

Just finished a DIY rattlecan frame paint job on my '98 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo and I gotta say it would have been much simpler, faster, and maybe even cheaper had I just paid for a media blast and single color powder coat (about $150 to $250 in my area). But...oh well. The custom paint work was fun and I know I have a unique "one off" bike. I've got other finishing touch parts coming later this week.

So here's a non-official poll - comment below: How do you normally like your frame/fork finishes: Keep it stock/factory and well kept? Factory finish but scratched/dented/don't care? Covert/Sleeper rattlecan spray job (no brand name/logos; good for commuting)? Custom rattlecan spray (like my Gary Fisher)?...or...Go for a professional repaint or powder coat?

Hey yall! This Super V fell on my lap today. I’m starting to run out of room quite honestly but it was fairly cheap and it’s in good shape! The Headshok fork was replaced for a Fatty from 99. The bike is in great shape and I couldn’t say no, honestly at this point I need bike rehab lmao. I do need to adjust both shocks though because I’m a big guy and the shocks drop fairly low when I ride it.. 😅

Hey folks,

I thought I'd post a little journal entry here because I've been surprisingly satisfied with this drivetrain setup on this coffee/path bike

The front is just what I had on hand at 39/42, something like 38/44 or so would probably really nail the concept. I believe the rear is 13-28 but I haven't actually counted it

So this is what happens when a single speed or 3-speed would be fine, but you have freewheels chainrings and derailleurs hanging around loitering in your shop

As far as the riding experience, the smaller ring and middle cog feel like just what you would want for single speed, I'm currently out of shape and it's easy to push along, if I want to go a little faster I can either bump down in the back or up in the front, going from 39 to 42 gives a small difference in effort and it's kind of cool to be able to fine tune with the front instead of the usual big jumps in ring size