Bambulab P1S with default textured plate, using default slicer.

A couple years in and my plate has started to require help to get that initial layer adhesion. I figured out the settings for PLA and TPU fine, but I'm having trouble printing every other filament - what settings should I be using for the other filaments?

I received this message from an account claiming to be from Printables support team. My account is still working fine, and the QR code they supply is trying to make me provide my credit card details.

Others on the Printables subreddit received similar messages, so I thought it would be best to share here too.

My fiancée sewed these curtains for my office and I wanted a clean Japandi style loop to hold them back. I modeled this in like 20 minutes and it worked on the first attempt. Doesn’t get much better than that.

Hola hace poco le cambié la boquilla a mi impresora 3D creality ender 3 V3 SE con klipper de la stock de 0.4mm a una de 0.2mm y me ha empezado a dar problemas a la hora de imprimir. me aparecen estos aros en las orillas de mi impresión.
Con la boquilla anterior me imprimía bien.
He hecho el cambio en la boquilla y altura de capa en orca slicer.

I have a U1, and a hundred or so spools of filament. I spun up a spoolman container, but I really am not seeing a lot of value in it for a one person, one printer setup.

Filling in details on every spool I have so I know how much is left doesn't seem to help me in any way. As long as my spools are sorted where I store them, using a gauge is usually enough to tell me if I can complete a print.

I could see using it a lot of it integrated with Orca, and I could select what spool I was printing with from Orca, let it set the material temp/PA/Flow, then let the printer plugin do the weight calculations at print time. But as far as I know thats not possible.

What specifically is everyone using it for? Just to know how much Panchroma Matte Black PLA you have left?

Hello all,

I’m currently having issues with my Centauri Carbon Gen1.

It currently has about 300 hours on it and I’ve been through 3 plates. It just keeps scratching them to death, assuming it’s the Z axis or something along those lines that it isn’t reading right. I auto level EVERY print. I’m not sure what to do now. I’ve replaced the nozzle but I don’t exactly have the money to keep throwing at it. Any ideas on what I should do?

Hello,
I am using a BambuLab A1 mini, it worked fine for around 2 months before my prints started to look like this.
I already changed the hotend which made it work for 1 print before leading to the same result as in the picture.
Couldn’t find this exact issue online, someone experienced the same issue? (I changed the filament once)

Thanks! :)

Any clue why this is happening? New printer head/extruder since the last one has gave me a blob of death. I've spend like a week messing around with it (leveling it, releveling it, messing with the Z offset, drying my filament) and nothing is work.

This printer has been running the same prints for the last year I've had it. Nothing in those setting has changed.

Hello, I’m fairly new to this whole 3D printing business and Im trying to understand why I’m getting these seemingly not random yellow bands when using white PLA. I’ve tried messing with the temperature, speed, thickness, fan. I thought maybe it was the filament it self but that doesn’t explain why it’s so consistent.

I saw another post like this on here but it didn’t have a solution. Any help would be appreciated.

I’m using an older printer, monoprice select mini v2 with hatchbox PLA.

Thanks.

It uses the included self-adhesive steel plate that comes with the scraper, embedded in the print for a seamless finish!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3250077-opengrid-magnetic-holder-bambu-mag-alloy-scraper#profileId-3683305

The title pretty much sums it up. I'm looking for a free model file of an M270 MLRS for an art project I'm working on.

Need help from comunity.

Looking for a printable shade for the IKEA BARLAST floor lamp, the 150 cm one with the 30 cm shade. Product page with photos for reference: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/barlast-floor-lamp-black-white-50437810/

I found the popular MakerWorld model (https://makerworld.com/en/models/207101-ikea-barlast-lampshade) but from the comments it is sized for the BARLAST table lamp, and one person who printed it for the floor lamp said it came out comically small. Someone else asked whether it fits the floor version and never got an answer.

The complication for me is the printer bed. The original shade is about 30 cm across and my A1 is 256 mm, so a one-piece copy at full size does not fit. So I am curious whether anyone has either:

1. A floor-size shade modelled to print in two or more pieces that clip or glue together, or
2. A smaller shade that still looks right on the floor lamp rather than like a hat on a tall person.

If you have printed one, a photo of it on the actual lamp would be far more useful than the model page, since the table vs floor confusion seems to be how people end up with the wrong size. Also curious what you used for translucency, the MakerWorld one is 1 wall, 0 infill, no top or bottom, and I am not sure that holds up at floor lamp size.

Not looking to sell anything, just want to stop looking at the bare bulb.

Greetings all gurus and printing wizards. Im hoping the collective wisdom here can help me determine what im missing.

Before i continue, im looking for actual help, not a critique of my choice of upgrades, or the cost effectiveness of what ive done. Im fully aware that i could have purchased an brand new printer with far fewer problems and better overall performance than the upgraded machine ive managed to cobble together.

Several years my wife bought me an ender 3 pro. I always had problems with reliability of the prints, enough so that even after basic upgrades like adding a bltouch and a couple of 3d printed parts didnt really help much. I ended up storing the thing for a long time. Other hobbies and needs have reignited my interest and need for 3d printing so ive pulled it back out and decided i would give it a genuine try again.

Somehow my mind decided the large 1 lump of money needed to get the printer i wanted was not a wise choice as, what if i get another dud? So i figured id upgrade and learn all the tricks and skills needed. Combine that with a sunk cost fallicy along with it working for just long enough to keep me from giving up on it here i am.

I am having a heck of a time getting my bed leveling sensors properly swapped out for it.

Ive upgraded to an octopuspro v1.1 with a bigtreetech pi 1.2, an orbiter 2.5, smart sensor, orbitool O2S, and an eddy2duo all running klipper. Along with many other upgrades not likely to effect this setup any.

Changing the config files for it has been a nightmare, chasing bugs all over. Currently trying to get the eddy2duo working.

Ive manages to flash it with usb firmware and have it configured but it klipper keeps crashing stating that the "Probe virtual endstop only useful as endstop pin" ive checked all of my included configs, none of them still referwnce any of the bltouch pins or anythings. The bed mesh block calls the btt_eddy probe used in the sample configs. Currently using the sample config for btt eddy2duo for homing and zoffset beta.

I did discover at one point there was a stuck set of variables at the bottom of the printer.cgf that are autogenerated that was giving details about the bltouch.are there other places i should look for stuff like that?

I'm doing a work order for the shop im working at, and I'll be left sitting with a bunch of spools with around 175-250 grams of filament leftover

I'm going to try splicing some together into one roll, but I'm not optimistic

So I'm going to have a bunch of filament not able to do much with. I could use ideas to use some of it so it's not going to waste

In total ill probably have 2kg of nylon to mess with

Project: Bringing Klipper to the Raise3D N2/N2 Plus Using the Original Stock Hardware & Touchscreen

Hi everyone,

I'm starting this thread to document a project I've been working on with my Raise3D N2 Plus.

The main goal is:

Run Klipper on the Raise3D N2/N2 Plus while keeping as much of the ORIGINAL hardware as possible — especially the original touchscreen, LCD and ARM touchscreen controller.

Most Klipper conversions I've seen involve adding a Raspberry Pi or another SBC and often replacing the original screen.

Before doing that, I wanted to find out:

Can we reuse the computer Raise3D already put inside these machines?

My N2 Plus has the original Raise3D touchscreen controller based on an NXP i.MX6 ARM processor. It originally runs an embedded Poky/Yocto Linux system together with RaiseTouch.

So far, I have already managed to:

- Boot Debian on the original Raise3D touchscreen controller

- Get SSH access

- Install Klipper on the original controller

- Flash/run Klipper on the printer's motion controller

- Inspect the original Raise3D bootloader and eMMC

- Boot the original Raise3D Yocto system

- Extract and inspect RaiseTouch firmware packages

- Identify the original touchscreen configuration and drivers

So the original touchscreen computer is absolutely capable of running Linux and Klipper.

However, I've hit an interesting problem.

The original Yocto filesystem stored on my printer's eMMC is heavily corrupted.

After examining it with e2fsck, I found filesystem corruption affecting system libraries including Qt, ICU and even parts of RaiseTouch itself.

Because of this, I currently can't use my own original installation as a reliable reference for reverse engineering the touchscreen.

That's where other N2/N2 Plus owners could help.

THE NEXT GOAL

I'm looking for owners of working Raise3D N2 or N2 Plus machines who are willing to help collect some information from their original touchscreen systems.

Initially, NOTHING needs to be modified.

No firmware flashing.

No dd.

No eMMC writing.

No motion-controller changes.

We only need SSH access and a few read-only commands.

The first objective is to compare several working printers and determine:

- Yocto/Linux version

- Kernel version

- i.MX6 hardware revision

- eMMC partition layout

- ICU versions

- Qt versions

- RaiseTouch versions

- Touchscreen drivers

- Device Tree configuration

- Differences between N2 and N2 Plus systems

Once we identify a compatible clean system, the next step would be to safely preserve the relevant original system files and potentially a clean eMMC image.

WHY DO THIS?

The N2/N2 Plus is old, but mechanically it's still a very capable machine.

Instead of throwing away the original electronics and installing a Raspberry Pi + new touchscreen, I want to see how far we can take the original hardware.

If successful, the end result could eventually become a documented community upgrade path:

Raise3D N2/N2 Plus

v

Original i.MX6 touchscreen computer

+---- Debian/Linux

+---- Klipper Host

+---- Moonraker

+---- Original LCD

+---- Original Touchscreen

v

Klipper Motion Controller

Ideally, someone could take an old stock N2/N2 Plus and convert it to Klipper without buying another computer or touchscreen.

LONG-TERM GOAL

If we can understand and reproduce everything properly, I'd like to turn the work in this thread into an open community guide/project for:

"Klipper on Raise3D N-Series Stock Hardware"

Including:

- Installation instructions

- Boot files

- Device Tree configuration

- Touchscreen support

- Klipper configuration

- Raise3D hardware pin mappings

- Recovery instructions

- Known hardware revisions

- Community-tested configurations

I will keep updating this thread as I make progress.

CURRENT STATUS

[✓] Debian boots on original touchscreen controller

[✓] SSH working

[✓] Klipper host installed

[✓] Klipper running on motion controller

[✓] Original eMMC identified and backed up

[✓] Original Yocto system boots

[✓] RaiseTouch firmware packages analyzed

[✓] Original touchscreen configuration identified

[!] Original eMMC filesystem is corrupted

[ ] Obtain clean N2/N2 Plus system reference

[ ] Compare touchscreen drivers/configuration

[ ] Get original touchscreen working under modern Linux

[ ] Integrate touchscreen UI with Klipper

[ ] Create reproducible installation procedure

[ ] Community testing

HELP WANTED

If you own a working Raise3D:

- N2

- N2 Plus

- N1

and you're interested in helping, please reply here.

N2/N2 Plus systems are the highest priority.

Even if you're not comfortable with Linux, I can provide very simple step-by-step instructions.

For the first test, we only need to enable SSH and run a few safe, read-only commands.

If you're also upgrading an old Raise3D, experimenting with Klipper, embedded Linux, touchscreen drivers, i.MX6 hardware, or reverse engineering these machines, feel free to join the project.

I'll post technical findings and updates below as the project progresses.

Let's see how much life we can get out of these old Raise3D machines.