Nabbed this bad boy for $40AUD from a rural tip/dump shop. Tested it on the spot and it seemed healthy. Popped a fresh battery in and the light meter fired right up. Checked it against my phone and they were close enough. I ran a roll of Fuji 400 to test and these are the winners. It definitely has some light leaks, which I've mended with foam, and the lens needed a good clean. Overall, I'm pretty happy with this guy.

I haven't been able to find any E6 in stores or online for months now. Is there a shortage? Are manufacturers discontinuing it? What's going on?

This (untested as-is) lot sold for $425. Some neat stuff in here, but wtf it looks like its sat in a barn for decades.

Minolta Freedom Zoom on Ultramax 400

i have this old Minolta AF-E from my grandfather. The problem is that when i put batteries inside of the camera and press the shutter button, the little gear/sprocket thing that is supposed to move film in the back/inside of the camera won't really move on its own and kind of goes back and forth and makes a clicking noise. If i apply some pressure, the sprocket starts to move by itself and works fine, but the same problem occurs when i press the shutter button again. I don't really know cameras so i apologize beforehand for any knowledge i lack.

I just developed this old roll, In some pictures I have this lines... I know the overall quality of the scan and film is bad but I have this bad lines always showing up, in some pictures they are visible, in other no. I any suggestion?

Hey Y’all,

I got a new Olympus OM-2n and I’m getting used to it. My first test roll was some Kodak 400 and the shots came out well exposed. My second test roll is Harman Phoenix 200, which I accidentally shot at 400, so I just had it developed +1.

I used simple in-camera light metering, and the light was essentially the same on both rolls.

The Harman shots are dogwater, very underexposed. Granted it was a test, but still, could someone explain what might have went wrong here? I’m gonna post a Kodak 400 shot and a Harman 200+1 shot, and it would really help to understand if I need to practice metering more, or if its the nature of the film stock/push.

Just got a test roll back from my GA645Zi with a dead screen and saw this dot pattern - I assumed it was some sort of light leak bouncing off of the pressure plate but then I noticed that it seems to diagonally cross two frames (and only two frames)? Any sleuths that have a good explanation for this one? I'll try to attach them in order!

*Please disregard the quality of the images as this was solely a test roll to figure out if I correctly set the ISO of this camera without having a screen to tell me if I was correct lol*

Thanks in advance!

Hello! My wife surprised me with a Pentax ME Super for my birthday. This is my first film body. I've been shooting digital for many, many years. I'm waiting on some Illford HP5 400+ to arrive in the mail in a couple days and am looking for some tips!

I chose this film stock because all of the research I've done seems to point to its versatility and an onramp as a beginner film stock, but I'm not fully tracking on what that means.

Y'all have any tips? Should I push HP5? I've heard that's a strategy many people use. What about making push and pull decisions for different scenes. Is that possible, or does that make the developing process too messy and mixed up?

Let me paint a scenario for you: If I'm taking photos outside of my kids on a hot summer afternoon, and then we go inside for supper, should I just adjust my exposure using the typical exposure triangle, adjusting my shutter speed and aperture, or is pushing the film to 800 or 1600 a better strategy?

And is pushing and pulling just a matter of selecting a different ISO value on the camera? For example, I want to push to 800 so I just turn the dial to 800?

I'm such a novice in all of this. It's actually exciting to not feel like I know what I'm doing again.

Sorry if I'm asking dumb questions.

Hey, I am reposting this, as for some reason my original did not contain any images. My apologies for that.

Original post:

"Hi, I hope everyone is doing great. I just got my hands on a Ae prism finder. As I was expecting it under the light I saw some type of dust inside the prism, and I was wondering if you guys think this could be mold or just dust, the dust has some kind of beige/sand color, and it kind of looks like left over coffee particles that sticked to the wall of the grinder due to static, I appreciate any insight you can give me. have a cool and chill day!"

Not sure if this is the right place, sorry if not! Just got this AE-1 and everything seems to be in working order, i'm taking a film class in school, so i have no idea what is normal. my prof told me to get it serviced but she didn't really understand the issue (i'd like to avoid that!)

Every so often, it seems like the shutter cycle is getting interrupted by means of the stop down slide. when it gets stuck, if i press the button it will continue the cycle. if i lock the stop down slide into place, this does not happen, but i don't know if that's ok to do and if my pictures will still turn out alright. I included a video of what i'm talking about, hopefully this makes sense lol!

do i need to get it serviced? is it a lens issue? will it affect the quality of my photos if i lock the stop down lever into place?

Hi everyone. I bought recently a Minolta Riva Zoom 70 (35mm) and the first film was developed recently and the photos were like this. It's only in the first three strips of the roll, the last photos didn't turned out like these. Does anyone know what could've happen. I used Kodak Gold 200 ISO 24 exp film. Thank you in advance!

I just got a bunch of scans back from my trip to Japan. I noticed that some (probably 1/4th) of the photos have this weird barcode-like strip across the image that basically looks like it was stretched. Has anyone seen this before? Was this something wrong with the film, my camera, or the lab I used? They're a little frustrating because when they're more obvious it just ruins the photo.

Shot on a Mamiya 645 1000s, used Portra 400, scanned on a negative supply stand using a Canon R5 with the 100mm macro from Canon.

Settings were iso 100, f8, 1/5th of a second exposure time.

Converted on Negative Lab Pro v3.1

I feel they have a lot of color noise, and whilst MUCH sharper than my Epson v800 scans, not TACK sharp, I autofocused with the camera AF and then left it on manual mode after I found the sharpness to be upmost.

Do they feel like Portra 400?

https://we.tl/t-84Fq9DPg7XkqgFO7

Link to full res photos.

Is this underexposed or this is what to expect from hp5+ pushed to 1600?

This comes from my first ever roll from a manual camera (pentax mx), I trusted the internal meter, it was around bluish hour, developed at a local lab

Still have to pick up my negatives from the lab but confused after getting these back. Have not had a problem with light leaks before, and it’s only showing up in some images. I’m including some where it is more severe and some where the issue is more minimal.

Note: these are from a trip and i took a plane but nothing went through X-rays! Everything hand checked.

*Sorry - reposting this to remove identifying information on the scans*

Hi! My friend just got her first ever roll of film developed and is looking for some troubleshooting help. On almost all of the frames, there's a significant dark area at the bottom. Could this be a camera malfunction, or an inexperienced user error? The film loading/unloading seemed to go smoothly, but at like 5 frames into the roll she noticed that after she took a picture, the viewfinder went dark/unfocused. This went away after she dismounted and then remounted the lens (but happened again 2-3 times throughout the roll). My first thought was it might be a shutter sync/capping issue but the pockets of correct exposure within the dark areas are confusing to me.

She's shooting on a Contax RX with a 50mm Zeiss lens. The film is Portra 400. She doesn't have the negatives yet (just got the scans today).

Thanks in advance for any help!

hi! i just got my first ever roll of film developed and i'm looking for some troubleshooting help. on almost all of the frames, there's a significant dark area at the bottom. could this be a camera malfunction, or an inexperienced user error? the film loading/unloading seemed to go smoothly, but at like 5 frames into the roll i noticed that after i took a picture, the viewfinder went dark/unfocused. this went away after i dismounted and then remounted the lens (but happened again 2-3 times throughout the roll).

i am shooting on a contax rx with a 50mm zeiss lens. the film is Kodak Portra 400 Color Negative Film (35mm). i don't have the negatives yet (just got the scans today).

thank you so much!

Shot on an RB67 (in Death Valley heat), other rolls of film from this trip didnt have these white streaks, if you can call them that, only this one roll did. Possible I loaded it badly or it got exposed to light, or maybe the way I stored it? Some of the film I used this trip was new from store and some was my cold stored stuff from 5ish years ago. Kinda bummed they came out this way, hoping it's not the camera itself and hopefully the film.

I shot this picture on my canon a1 with a canon fd 80-200L lens and a 400 iso film. Other pictures I took that day seem fine (see 2 and 3). Does anyone know why this happens and how can I prevent it? Thanks a lot

I have an expired sensia 100 (from 2004) and I shoot it with 2 stop pushed and need to develop(E-6) it with 2 stop pull. Do you suggest me a lab?

Hope some has these in a drawer

I’m working on a series at the moment shooting on Ektar 100 but through a Red 25 Heliopan filter. The shots usually come out in this rich blood iron red with minimal post processing. See shots 1,2 and 5 for examples.

But every now and then when I process a film something very odd happens and the hue goes crazy relative to the others. You can see this effect on the negative, but it’s totally thrown me as to what’s happening. Asked the lab and they couldn’t work it out either:

What I have observed so far:
- The affected image themselves are sharp and well exposed, not fogged. But their hue is completely different to other shots taken at the same time.
- These later shots have also wiped over part of preceding exposure in some way. You can see that at the bottom of photo 3
- At least some of the image has carried past the frame, you can see the dark streaks at the bottom of the top image on the negative. Which would indicate movement or advancing the film, which is not something I did.
- These later shots were shot with a polariser over the top but the one that got wiped wasn’t. However I shoot many other shots, like the stream photo (no.5) with a CL on and no issues.
- This was the end of the roll, but have also had it mid roll before and the same colour shift happen on Kodak Portra so not this specific film .
- I also shoot B&W and never have any replicable issues with those rolls, so I doubt it’s the camera.

I shoot on a Bronica SQ-B, the affected images were on a 40mm lens, Red 25 plus CL filters, shutter down.

Any ideas what happened?

Hi there. I purchased a Fuji G617 a few days ago. Off of Ebay, out of Japan. Arrived pretty quickly. Happy days. Outwardly the camera looks to be in close to mint condition (photo off of Google, my camera is in my studio and I’m at home and haven’t taken a pic yet).

I loaded a roll of film into it earlier tonight. Planning to take it for a spin tomorrow morning in that sweet morning sunrise light. And to my great and utter dismay the frame advance does not stop/lock, and the camera just winds endlessly. Tried a second roll, same result.

Anyone here familiar with this issue? And more importantly, is this something that can be fixed? Or is my fancy new toy a very expensive paper weight? I will contact some repair shops tomorrow. But any and all troubleshooting help is welcome of course.

I’ve always been a fan of film photography. I was able to get this camera for $50. I think it’s good for me to learn and practice.