I bought this camera kit just for the roll of film. I tried looking up info on it but couldn’t find anything (maybe I wasn’t looking hard enough) but wanted to document it on the internet since I couldn’t find anything anywhere else. I shot the roll for the brand new day release and kept the canister and the camera and framed everything else.

The Kodak films recently relaunched in Eastman Kodak's yellow-and-black packaging are around 20% cheaper than earlier versions of the film.

Just kidding, I’m planning to shoot the first roll in the alps this fall. I didn’t plan to shoot positive because it’s so hard to get but now I will at least try one roll.
How are your experiences with expiration while keeping it in the fridge? Mine has over a year left but if it’s still good after that I won’t have to worry as much.

Anybody who is well versed in film development know exactly what happened here to get this look? Feels like I found them in some old photo collection or something... I took these with my Pentax 645 with Vision 3 250D 120 and they genuinely look like they're straight from a disposable camera lol. Was the film expired potentially?

I tried some slight colour grading but apart from that, the photos here are essentially how they were scanned.

Hi everyone, I would like to share with you my latest project - a 3D printed film holder for DSLR scanning. You can find the project on the GitHub

Let me explain why I made it and also manage your expectations about the whole thing.

Why I made it?

I wanted a holder that would keep the film straight and flat so that I don't have to rotate the scans in post and also to make cropping pretty much work for the whole roll. I also wanted to have the corners of my scans as sharp as the rest of the image, something that was demonstrably a challenge with other methods I tried. So I decided to sandwich the film between two pressure plates to flatten it. The tube that holds the lens also makes it that the camera is pretty much level with the film-plane and there is no ambient light ruining your scans.

How universal is it?

In theory, it is pretty universal. It is designed to be modular, you can replace the part that I designed to fit on top of CineStill CS-Lite-Brite with a different part. You can also replace the part that I designed to fit my EF compact macro lens. The files are in the project, if you have Fusion 360 or a different program that can open those files, you are all set.

The bottom pressure plate is meant to be printed for each kind of film specifically. I learned that different manufacturers produce slightly differently sized film. It is worth it to have multiple bottom pressure plates. I have one for Fomapan and one for Kodak films. Both dialed in so that the vertical fit is as snug as possible. (I seem to remember Ilford films fitting one of the plates just fine.)

How safe is it?

I have tested it on multiple rolls of different films including Fomapan Action, Kodak Portra and Gold, and Ilford films. It never scratched my film. If the film has the natural bow curve to it and you always raise the pressure plate up, it should not happen.

Expectations

I want to be clear that I am not going to be able to extend it or make changes to it at the time. I have made it and used it more than 9 months ago. I thought I would share it sooner, but I haven't shot any photos for essentially 9 months now. It is what it is. For that reason, I am only asking you to please have understanding with my situation.

I want to share something that I believe is worth of sharing, I liked building it and after getting used to it, I liked using it too. But I don't have the resources to work on it in any capacity in the near future. I would like to build a V2 that would have the slider move orthogonally to the film plane not with it so that your fingers stay out of the film's way - something that become apparent the first time I used it but somehow didn't occur to me before (funny how these things work).

That being said, I really want to be transparent - it is not in my ability to make changes to it or to modify the dimensions of the components to fit other lenses or light boxes. I am giving it away to the community because I believe in sharing. Hope I will find understanding here.

Have a great day everyone!

My late father had a job repairing transmitters in various buildings in the western NY area. My mom found this in the garage today, in the little envelope there’s a digital key, I wonder if it would actually do anything at Kodak today! Probably they’ve switched to all new security systems, but I thought you all would think this is cool!

To my dismay, I found a hole in the shutter of my Canon FTb only after I shot a roll of film through it and probably way too late to send it back. I bought it back in July.

Is it possible to fix a hole of this size? And if so how? Electrical tape comes to mind and I read that rubber glue might do it but I would love some advice from you guys.

I've been getting into analog photography over the past six months or so, mostly on an old Agfa Shur-Shot 120 box camera, and managed to find this Yashica 635 last week for a good price! Just needed a little cleaning, but beyond that everything seems to work perfectly! I've shot two rolls of Rollei Retro 400S 120 through it so far (haven't developed either yet), but it did also come with the parts for 35mm as well.

I have a wide angle lens set coming and definitely want to get a cable release--any other accessories you all might think are necessary?

Edit: Accidentally wrote '120mm' instead of '120'

Hi, I got my scans back from the Lab and I don’t understand why my recent roll of Kodak gold 200 (120) is looking orange (picture on the left) while I took the picture on the right with also Kodak gold 200 with the same way of exposing (+ 1 stop) and it’s not orange

I’ve always been a fan of film photography. I was able to get this camera for $50. I think it’s good for me to learn and practice.

Got this Canon Eos 500 secondhand and still has a roll inside on frame 1 (which means the whole roll is pulled out and it will start winding back inside each shot). When i set the camera to its ISO setting it says "1600", but it doesnt look like Fujicolor Natura 1600 to me, the cannister..

Anyone who recognizes this or might be able to identify it? Im asking because whatever it is, it is for sure expired and i dont want to overexpose it too insanely, but maybe someone before me put in the 1600 while its actually like 200 film.

I'll also be doing some more research while on the train to the city im shooting at today 👍🏻

Either way, thanks for reading and have a great day!

Minolta Freedom Zoom on Ultramax 400

Shot on a Mamiya 645 1000s, used Portra 400, scanned on a negative supply stand using a Canon R5 with the 100mm macro from Canon.

Settings were iso 100, f8, 1/5th of a second exposure time.

Converted on Negative Lab Pro v3.1

I feel they have a lot of color noise, and whilst MUCH sharper than my Epson v800 scans, not TACK sharp, I autofocused with the camera AF and then left it on manual mode after I found the sharpness to be upmost.

Do they feel like Portra 400?

https://we.tl/t-84Fq9DPg7XkqgFO7

Link to full res photos.

I decided to “consolidate” my medium format cameras and switch to a more modular system. TBD if I sell the others 😄 After my first roll, I noticed that I missed focus on every shot. After doing some research, I found a great 120ist video detailing how to replace the foam yourself. Worked like a charm and pretty easy to do!

The camera came with the Zenzanon 50mm MC, and I added the Zenzanon 150mm MC. I love the 50mm focal length, and I’m really liking the 50/150 combination. I may end up adding the 75mm Nikko-PC eventually!

I had this Olympus OM-2S program sitting around that I had given up on fixing a while back due to the circuit board being trashed and had seen a video of someone taking an IPhone 3 apart and mounting it in a case and got the bright idea to do this to the Olympus. I chose not to display the electronics because A. I didn’t have enough room, and B i felt like it wouldn’t be as pleasing to look at but that’s just a personal opinion

I might do the same idea to the Lens I had gotten with it (Kiron 70-150mm F/4) and display that parallel.

Summer is ending and winter is coming. Vacation is over and I’m not looking forward to a bleak, concrete colored sky for the next six months. But I’m stuck here, traveling not possible.

So I do need a new photographic project. A theme, a topic, a goal.

What’s yours? What photographers should I check out? Can you help inspire me?

Bought a Canon Sure Shot Tele on eBay that claimed to be film tested, shot a roll of new Fujifilm 400 (purchased on Amazon days prior) and just got my first roll developed.

The place where I developed them claims that this was the only roll of film in the batch that came out blue.

Any advice? Is it likely the camera, unlucky bad batch of film, or how it was developed?

Lately I’ve been drawn to the look of 35mm film shot through medium format cameras. The visible sprocket holes, wider aspect ratio and that hybrid “cinemascope” feel.

Does anyone know of a product similar to this that instead lets you load 16mm film into a 35mm SLR? Preferably something that doesn’t require permanently modifying the camera.

I’m working on a series at the moment shooting on Ektar 100 but through a Red 25 Heliopan filter. The shots usually come out in this rich blood iron red with minimal post processing. See shots 1,2 and 5 for examples.

But every now and then when I process a film something very odd happens and the hue goes crazy relative to the others. You can see this effect on the negative, but it’s totally thrown me as to what’s happening. Asked the lab and they couldn’t work it out either:

What I have observed so far:
- The affected image themselves are sharp and well exposed, not fogged. But their hue is completely different to other shots taken at the same time.
- These later shots have also wiped over part of preceding exposure in some way. You can see that at the bottom of photo 3
- At least some of the image has carried past the frame, you can see the dark streaks at the bottom of the top image on the negative. Which would indicate movement or advancing the film, which is not something I did.
- These later shots were shot with a polariser over the top but the one that got wiped wasn’t. However I shoot many other shots, like the stream photo (no.5) with a CL on and no issues.
- This was the end of the roll, but have also had it mid roll before and the same colour shift happen on Kodak Portra so not this specific film .
- I also shoot B&W and never have any replicable issues with those rolls, so I doubt it’s the camera.

I shoot on a Bronica SQ-B, the affected images were on a 40mm lens, Red 25 plus CL filters, shutter down.

Any ideas what happened?

I feel like the quality of these photos are quite poor. Are these down to the film, camera issue or poor scans/development?

I've recently had some film developed at the same place with an older camera and same film and the quality is so much better.

It’s 50/50, it either works or it doesn’t :)

Top: Agfa RSX II 100
Bottom: Fuji Velvia 50

Both expired “kept in a fridge”. At least the for Agfa slides I got a pack of 6 so I have 5 good ones left.

Seeing as I got this lens for very cheap I don't figure it's super rare, but it's the first I've heard of this company making lenses. Might be an Auto-Chinon clone, but still I'm super satisfied with how these pictures turned out, the A7Rii's resolution definitely helped. If you zoom in all the way you can see some are ever so slightly off focus, but most are 95% there. I will say the highlighting effect the A7Rii makes when in focus on something makes using this lens wayyy easier. It's also a lot of weight, hence the handle on the tripod mount.

I am considering buying this camera from an online seller, apparently everything works correctly however the photo of the viewfinder concerns me. Does this look like mold? Is it possible to clean/fix? Thank you!

Hello! My wife surprised me with a Pentax ME Super for my birthday. This is my first film body. I've been shooting digital for many, many years. I'm waiting on some Illford HP5 400+ to arrive in the mail in a couple days and am looking for some tips!

I chose this film stock because all of the research I've done seems to point to its versatility and an onramp as a beginner film stock, but I'm not fully tracking on what that means.

Y'all have any tips? Should I push HP5? I've heard that's a strategy many people use. What about making push and pull decisions for different scenes. Is that possible, or does that make the developing process too messy and mixed up?

Let me paint a scenario for you: If I'm taking photos outside of my kids on a hot summer afternoon, and then we go inside for supper, should I just adjust my exposure using the typical exposure triangle, adjusting my shutter speed and aperture, or is pushing the film to 800 or 1600 a better strategy?

And is pushing and pulling just a matter of selecting a different ISO value on the camera? For example, I want to push to 800 so I just turn the dial to 800?

I'm such a novice in all of this. It's actually exciting to not feel like I know what I'm doing again.

Sorry if I'm asking dumb questions.