I have a 2016 BMW 4 Series Gran Coupe (F36), and I’m having a really strange issue with the radio.
It seems that the car has different radio stations assigned to each physical key. For example, when I unlock/start the car with one key, it automatically starts on one particular radio station, whereas using the other key starts on a different station.
I’ve tried changing the station manually and saving it to the radio presets, but the station that comes up on startup still seems to be linked to the key/profile.
I’ve searched online and through the iDrive settings but can’t find a way to change or disable whatever is causing this.
I’m aware of the BMW Personal Profile/Key Memory system, so I’m wondering if the radio startup station is being stored against each key’s profile. Has anyone with an F36 experienced this, and if so, how did you change the station associated with the key?
Ideally I’m looking for the exact iDrive menu/settings sequence, or whether this needs to be changed/coded using diagnostic software.
Hello everybody, I’ve searched all around the internet and have found very little information regarding this “silencer delete” and how a K&N sport filter would sound on the B48 320i. I thought I’d give my opinion on it and see if I can get some suggestions as well.
Short answer for Is it worth it? Depends, I paid about 130$ / 114 € / aprox 600 RON for the filter and silicone tubing and don’t see a HUGE difference. For half the money I’d say it’s totally worth it , but for this amount I’m 50/50 about it.
For the silencer delete it’s the little black box that the air box feeds into , from what I understand it kinda traps air and makes the car a little bit more quiet. After removing it and replacing it with a 200 mm length 90 degree 3 inch hole opening elbow silicone tubing ( which i had to cut down quite a lot as the 100mm was a little bit too short) i did some tests and the sounds were minimal so then I ordered the K&N sport filter (also the 3inch hole was a bit too big so probably 2.5 inches would be better as well as those metal coils that tighten to be around 90-110 mm, i had the 100-120 and had to tighten them all the way down)
I’m not gonna start a debate about the K&N filter as everyone has a different view but now that it’s all done the intake is just a little bit louder. When I drive it I feel more joy as I can hear the turbo spool down a bit better. The biggest difference is when i have some speed for example 10km/h and i put it in neutral and rev it up to 2000-3000 RPM that’s when the sound of the turbo really shines sucking in and “chopping up” air.
But overall I thought it would make the engine sound much better I guess but that’s my mistake for thinking a filter and a silicone tube would make a 4 piston engine sound a hell of a lot better
Do I regret it? I don’t think so, just wish my expectations were lower i guess. So if you have any suggestions or questions I’m here to discuss! Also, the car is completely stock (besides this but idk if it counts as a modification)
Bought this 2006 E87 130i in 2024 with a busted motor (yes - the previous owner managed to lunch an indestructible N52). It had sat outside, neglected for over a year before I bought it.
Nice spec 5 door manual car with single hump non-iDrive unit.
Motor was swapped out, and every seal and gasket was refreshed while the engine was out. New clutch, OEM suspension, cooling, everything was touched. Refurbished all the curb rashed wheels, did a multi stage cut and polish.
Then I encountered electrical issues which took me months to trace and rectify.
Now it’s on the road and feels like a new car.
Anyway, posting for some 20 year old car love in a sea of people showing off their new new M cars 🙂
some of my favourite shots i took of the bmw art cars at bmw welt in munich. it was so good seeing them all together, absolute full circle moment.
i’d be happy to hear your opinions on my photos and which ones you like best.
cheers
Trying to fix the exterior of 2019 X3 please help identify the parts I need. Pretty sure the one piece is the valance, but I’m unsure about the part on driver side under the car. Thank you!
I'm hoping someone with experience of the G87 M2 / G8x platform can help me work out a strange intermittent issue I've been having.
The background
I had my G87 M2 running amp+subwoofer for around 4 months and the M2 CS software/flash for around 2 months. without any problems
I started getting an intermittent warning:
The warning would only stay on the screen for a few seconds and then disappear.
It didn't seem to be related to hard driving, wheelspin, MDM or any particular DSC setting. It could happen during completely normal driving and seemed completely random.
Interestingly, the warning seemed to happen much more frequently while running the CS flash, sometimes almost 3-4 times in a hour drive.
when on the stock flash afterwards i was getting the error maybe once a day/ could just be a coincidence
I'm not saying the CS flash caused the problem — I'm just mentioning the frequency because the difference was noticeable.
Returning the car to the stock flash
Because I wanted to take the car to BMW for a warranty check, I asked my coder guy to return the car to the standard BMW stock flash a day later
After the car was flashed back to stock, I noticed that my subwoofer wasn't working.
My aftermarket audio setup consists of:
WavTech Link2
Technic PnP harness
JL Audio 500/1 amplifier
JL Audio TW3 subwoofer
When I investigated why the subwoofer wasn't working, I found that the WavTech Link2 was no longer functioning.
This made me wonder whether there could potentially be some connection between the audio/electrical issue and the differential warning.
One particularly strange thing
Whenever the rear differential lock warning appears, I immediately scan the car with BimmerLink.
However, no new differential-specific fault code was ever recorded. with m2cs flash and without.
The warning disappears from iDrive after a few seconds, but there is no corresponding GSD/differential fault appearing in BimmerLink afterwards.
BimmerLink fault codes
I've found various ZGW/FlexRay-related faults, including:
100104 – HW wake-up reason ZGW
100204 – Message monitoring: no system context signal
100406 – FsCSM does not send a response to F60 or F70
100600 – FlexRay protocol startup time too high
101008 – Non-resolvable ambiguous routing – SG not in the SVT target table
The JL Audio 500/1 was powered directly from the 12V battery in the boot.
The blue 4 AWG CCA cable was the aftermarket +12V power cable.
The grey/brown 4 AWG CCA cable was the amplifier earth, connected to the BMW chassis ground point next to the battery.
WavTech LOC
Technic PnP harness
JL Audio 500/1 amplifier
JL Audio TW3/subwoofer wiring
I'm particularly interested in whether these are the correct points to use on the G87 or if this could of caused some overvolt issues.
What I've done now
To completely eliminate the aftermarket audio system as a variable Yesterday i removed the amplifier and subwoofer just leaving the harness and leads not connected insulating tape around the ends to make sure they didnt touch any metal (i was still getting errors)
then this evening i removed the Technic PNP harness and the aftermarket power and earth cables
I've driven the car for about 15 minutes since removing everything and so far the differential warning has NOT returned.
What I'm trying to work out
Could a problem with the Technic PnP harness or WavTech LOC, or potentially the amplifier power/ground installation, cause an electrical disturbance or overvoltage event that could somehow result in the rear differential lock being temporarily restricted?
Could the 030E03 central overvoltage and RAM overvoltage faults be related to the aftermarket audio installation?
Could the WavTech LOC itself have been damaged?
Or am I looking at completely separate problems?
Has anyone experienced the “Rear axle differential lock restricted” warning where no corresponding differential fault is stored?
Has anyone seen this warning alongside overvoltage, ZGW or FlexRay faults?
And has anyone installed an aftermarket amplifier in the G87 boot and can confirm the correct factory positive and chassis ground points?
I'm also interested in whether anyone thinks the Technic PnP harness could potentially have damaged the WavTech LOC, or whether the two failures are likely unrelated.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can offer some advice or share their experience.
Longtime driver of 3 series (335i, 328i and a manual 320i) but now in an X1 that works really well for a lot of things. But, I want to have fun again. Thought a 230i might do it and had a real positive test drive, but got stuck watching in-depth videos and drooling over the M240i and cannot shake it. Someone talk me back into a 230i, anyone?
New to me. '99 z3m Coupe, 42, 000 miles on the clock and bone stock. Excited to be back in a car after taking hiatus. I owned a few different e36s in the early 2000s.
I have owned 5 BMW’s over the years and today is the first time I have walked out of a dealer without a new car.
I tired of the inflated prices and the massive depreciation associated with this car.
Even if you put a strong down payment have never rolled negative equity into a car, pay more then my monthly payment. Yet somehow I am 5k underwater on a 2 year old car.
Never took any of the add ons.
So today I payed the 5k sold the BMX X5 60. And picked up a used Toyota for under 25k.
I now have zero monthly car note and no longer need to deal with the BMW.
hello everyone i believe i’m going to buy a 435i soon between 2013-2016 are the years i’ll looking at. im currently 18 years old my car got totaled less than a month ago i really wanted a 535i bc of the size and luxury interior but upon looking into the 4 series i’m really starting to like the look of them more. i guess i’m at a stalemate on what i want to do, i like the 435i coupe a lot but the grancoupe seems to be slightly cheaper in my area which do you recommend considering after market support and personal experience?
My BMW G80 M3 Competition M xDrive LCI in Black Sapphire Metallic paint and Silverstone interior, enjoying the sunshine before the typical British weather kicks in.
My new (to me) 430i gran coupe! Extremely happy with the car. Over the last ~5 years of rebuilding my life from essentially nothing and fixing all the mistakes of my late teens and early 20's, driving a shitbox e46 and an even shittier e92, finally got a car I can really say I love. Great on gas, feels great, looks great.
Got a 2015 328i RWD with 59k miles for 16k OTD last week. Had my PPI done and they said its been kept in pristine condition with the updated guides for the timing chain. Did I do well is my main question here?
I recently bought a 2019 BMW 330i with a CEL related to the exhaust camshaft position sensor.
I initially replaced the exhaust camshaft position sensor, but the fault remained. After further testing, we found that the sensor is not receiving the proper electrical signal/power.
We tested the wiring for continuity and it appears to have continuity. The other sensors in the surrounding area are also receiving power and working normally. This particular sensor circuit seems to be the only one having the issue.
I took the car to BMW for diagnosis, and their report specifically says: “Found open circuit on exhaust cam position sensor harness. Recommend replacing harness and retesting.”
BMW is recommending replacing the engine wiring harness.
My question is whether replacing the entire harness is really the appropriate next step. If the wiring appears to have continuity but BMW is finding an open circuit, could this be a damaged wire, bad connector/pin, high resistance, or another issue that could be repaired without replacing the entire harness?
I’m also wondering whether the DME/ECU and its connector/pins should be tested before replacing the harness. Is there a good way to determine whether the signal is actually leaving the DME correctly?
Has anyone dealt with something similar on a G20 330i????
I am looking for a BMW for under 10k with the main reason of longer distance commuting. I have been looking mostly for f10s specifically 535i's and would like to hear some opinions from other people. If anyone has any other recommendations I'm also open to hearing them. I did previously look at e90s specifically the ones with the N52 but if a f10 is well respected in the reliability side I would rather have the extra space/comfort. Thanks.
I currently have a 2024 420i which I’m keeping, but I’ve been offered an M2 on a one-year lease and I’m seriously tempted. It would basically be a third/weekend car just for fun and to experience owning a proper M car.
My issue is I live in a very small country in the GCC . Speed limits are generally 120 km/h max, cameras everywhere, lots of traffic and the roads outside the main highways can be pretty rough. I test drove the M2 and loved the sound, looks and drama, but I was surprised how quickly you run out of road. At normal speeds my 420i already does everything I need.
For context there is only 67km of “highway” in the country and the entire country is less than 700 square km .
Anyone own an M2 somewhere with similar driving conditions? Is the experience and sense of occasion enough to make it worth it, or does the novelty wear off when you can barely use what the car is capable of?
Hey guys, so I’ve come to the decision that a 5 series from 2017-2020 would be ideal for my job as I do a lot of highway driving and just driving in general.
I’m wondering if the 540i is really worth the almost $15,000 CAD premium for a less optioned out, significantly higher KM one?
There’s an abundance of 530i’s here in Canada and majority of them are loaded with options and low kms.
I’m currently daily driving an e46 325i but the fuel economy and road noise is not all that great. Main priority for me is fuel economy, ride comfort and road noise.
Hi everyone!
I’m considering buying a 2014 BMW X5 xDrive40d (F15) with the N57 diesel engine. It has around 167,000 km (104,000 miles), a decent service history, and has had 3 previous owners.
I’d really appreciate some advice from people who have owned or worked on these cars.
How reliable is the N57 at this mileage? Are there any common or expensive problems I should specifically look out for before buying?
I’ve heard mixed things about timing chains, EGR, DPF, turbos and the xDrive/transfer case. How big of a concern are these on the 40d?
Would you personally consider buying one with 167,000 km if it has been properly maintained?
Any advice on what I should check during a test drive or pre-purchase inspection would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I recently purchased a 2025 M440ix GC from CarMax and got a PPI done at a BMW dealership. Everything checked out but they told me the cars summer tires were a bit worn and I would need to replace with All Season pretty soon. My car has 20” rims.
I asked CarMax and they told me they would replace the tires but they would use a mid tier option. They recommended Goodyear Eagle F1 All Season and I did some research and these look like a new release sport performance tires that are rated pretty well.
They don’t look like a mid tier option but wanted opinions from others. My plan was to just get the Michelins in two months but torn since CarMax is willing to foot the bill.
I'm interested in buying a F22 m240i instead of a G42 due to the lower weight and slightly less tech-y feel. I'm looking for a hardtop RWD, flexible on transmission. I'm subscribed to nationwide market updates on classic.com.
It seems like there are almost no such cars on the used market. Combined with some color and mileage restrictions, I'm striking out. Plenty convertibles and xDrives, even more M2s and M2 comps.
Did most F22 buyers go with the M2 instead of lower trims? Or is there some other reason these are hard to find used?
